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Old 03-03-2007, 03:46 PM   #1
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Lift Setup - New Thread

Ok, the other thread got a little crazy with a bunch of links that didn't work. I've narrowed it down to two primary choices....and I've driven myself insane in the process. I've gone to a bunch of local places and everything would cost more to buy it from a local shop. So here goes.


1) Pro Comp All Terrains, 32x11.5
Rock Crusher Black steelies - 15x8 w/ 3.75 bs
2" spacer lift w/ bump stops - whatever is cheapest
Rancho 9000x (9 ways) for 2" lift

Total = app $1100 w/ wheels/tires mounted & balanced and everything shipped, maybe a little more. The Pro Comps are buy 3 get 1 free, same with the Rancho's, thus why I'm pretty set on those even though they're a bit pricey they're comparable with that deal going on.


2) Pro Comp All Terrains, 33x12.5
Rock Crusher Black steelies - 15x8 w/ 3.75 bs
Rusty's 3" Basic Lift
----would probably order the 1" body/engine lift add-on, but not install right away.

Total = app $1250.

Such a tough choice. With the 32" setup....I'd be looking at better shocks with the adjustables, but with the 33"....bigger is better Seems like the 3" Rusty lift woudl accomodate the 33's and if I had any rubbing once I took her offroad, I could do the body/engine lift and probably be fine. Plus it comes with the drop pitman, t-case drop, ext. sway bar links, rear trac bar bracket, plus new coils/shocks. And 33's seem easier to find should I ever need a new one in a pinch.

Anything else I'd need for that 3" lift....seems like everything that would be needed to prevent driveline problems?


Ok....any opinions on these two setups? Its a daily driver with the plans for a baby to be in it in a couple years, some offroad use hopefully, mostly mild to moderate I'm sure, would rather not have to do much else beyond what I've listed to keep the ride "normal"...the Pro Comp tires are just hard to beat with getting 1 free.....and they run about 150-160 each depending on the size. 4 wheel parts seems to have a great deal with the free tire and the free mount/balance and only 70 bucks shipping....hard to beat $750 for tires/rims.


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Old 03-03-2007, 04:30 PM   #2
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your TJ will become very slow with the big tires. think about regearing...

you´ll have to drop the transfer case with the 3" lift. i had to drop the TC with only a 2" budget boost (i have the 4.0L with the 4-gear auto tranny).

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Old 03-03-2007, 05:16 PM   #3
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I have 33" tires & 3:73 gears and have no problem doing 75-80 on the freeway. Once in the mountains is a different story, but I only loose 5th gear.
Its not very slow.
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Old 03-03-2007, 06:05 PM   #4
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i drove a friends TJ with 33s and 4.56 gears last week.
that makes me feel like my TJ only has a small 4-banger.

my next step will be 4.56 gears instead of my 3.07. with that gears i will be able to go +100 mph like a stock TJ.
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Old 03-03-2007, 06:38 PM   #5
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what stock tj can go +100???
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Old 03-03-2007, 06:49 PM   #6
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rusty's comes with a tcase drop down i think

http://rustysoffroad.com/mm5/merchan...ode=sus_tj_kit

look at the bottom it should say that it comes with it
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Old 03-03-2007, 06:51 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NWilhelm View Post
what stock tj can go +100???
the stock TJ 4.0 here in germany (3.07 gears and small 225/75r15 tires) has a limited top speed of 180 kmh, that are 112 mph.
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Old 03-03-2007, 08:05 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nicolas-eric View Post
i drove a friends TJ with 33s and 4.56 gears last week.
that makes me feel like my TJ only has a small 4-banger.

my next step will be 4.56 gears instead of my 3.07. with that gears i will be able to go +100 mph like a stock TJ.
Big tires and stock gears are something that people don't realize how bad it is until they did what you did... drove a regeared Jeep. I have yet to meet one person that has regeared and didn't say how much they didn't realize how it was.
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Old 03-03-2007, 08:08 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Moab Man View Post
Big tires and stock gears are something that people don't realize how bad it is until they did what you did... drove a regeared Jeep. I have yet to meet one person that has regeared and didn't say how much they didn't realize how it was.
tomorrow i will order all parts i need and in two weeks the 4.56 gears and two true tracs will be installed.
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Old 03-03-2007, 09:21 PM   #10
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So ya think with the stock 3.73's I'm better off sticking with the 32's until I can afford to regear and do it up right?
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Old 03-03-2007, 09:30 PM   #11
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I have 33 and 3.07 my jeep will still flat get it. I spun all the way through first gear one night after a few beers. 32's arent gonna make that big of a difference stop smokin crack Eric.
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Old 03-03-2007, 09:55 PM   #12
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there isn´t a big difference between 33s and 32s. i would buy 33s and regear sometimes later.
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Old 03-03-2007, 10:11 PM   #13
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So ya think with the stock 3.73's I'm better off sticking with the 32's until I can afford to regear and do it up right?
Do the 33's, but seriously plan to do gears when you can afford it.

And don't listen to those that haven't regeared as to whether you should or not. Look through this forum and numerous others on the web and you will notice the abscence of people that have regeared saying, "No, don't do it."

This topic is like getting the opinion of someone driving a souped-up Honda on whether or not a Corvette is worth the money. I don't know about you but the Honda drivers opinion doesn't mean squat. I need to drive the Vette or ask the people that own one.
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Old 03-03-2007, 10:38 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Moab Man View Post
And don't listen to those that haven't regeared as to whether you should or not.
i thought that my TJ didn´t become very slow with the 32s and the 3.07 gears. until i drove a friends TJ with 33s and 4.56 gears.

the difference between his TJ and my TJ is much bigger than between a stock 4.0L and a stock 2.4L.

now i know why most people regear with bigger tires. i will do it in the next weeks.
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Old 03-03-2007, 10:55 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nicolas-eric View Post
there isn´t a big difference between 33s and 32s. i would buy 33s and regear sometimes later.
i 2nd that
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Old 03-03-2007, 11:11 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nicolas-eric View Post
the stock TJ 4.0 here in germany (3.07 gears and small 225/75r15 tires) has a limited top speed of 180 kmh, that are 112 mph.
I just got my oil changed and my jeep feels like its flyin. I took it on the high way today and did 90mph with out feeling a thing and could have gone a lot more but whats the point Anyhow the TJs here in the US of A are stopped at 100 or so. I'm also thinking of stickin in 35s sometime on the way after i pay my jeep loan and i get a lift (hopefully all that should be done in the summer) I gues having a 35mph 1st gear reminds me of the good ol sports car days Anyhow now i tend to start from 2nd once in a while. Will it be really similar ratio with stock gears and 35s than 2nd gear on stock tires and diffs?
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Old 03-03-2007, 11:20 PM   #17
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stock gear and 35s? then you´ll never need your 4th and 5th gear. my old TJ with manual tranny had only 31s and 3.07 gears. i rarely used the 5th gear becaus there wasn´t enough power on the highway with +70 mph. top speed was only possible in 4th gear.

here´s a list with the best gears for different tire sizes (for the 5-speed manual tranny):
http://www.klaus-eisi.de/jeep/uebersetzung.html

for 35s a 4.88 gear would be the best.
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Old 03-03-2007, 11:28 PM   #18
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what does serie and umbau mean

Gears are also on my list right bellow the 35s since i dont want to run 30s with 4.56 or 4.88 gears
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Old 03-03-2007, 11:35 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Triple88a View Post
what does serie and umbau mean
serie - stock
umbau - modified
reifen - tire

if you want 35s you should add some stronger axles to your list.
the D30 front and D35 rear axles aren´t strong enough for 35s and heavy offroad use.
if you want to use your TJ off the road i wouldn´t install bigger tires than 33s with these axles.
take a look at this site. there you cansee how big tires can damage your axles: http://www.billhughes.com/dana35c/
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Old 03-03-2007, 11:53 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by Moab Man View Post
Big tires and stock gears are something that people don't realize how bad it is until they did what you did... drove a regeared Jeep. I have yet to meet one person that has regeared and didn't say how much they didn't realize how it was.
I'll be regearing in the near future......I'll let you know if I agree
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Old 03-04-2007, 12:08 AM   #21
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In other words i should learn how to change axles? I dont do any offroading since where i live all we have is a ditch or two on each side of the road I'm thinking of the 35s since the roads here are preatty crappy/many holes and bigger tires tend to run way easier/smoother over rough terrains than smaller tires. I do try to go around them but most of the times they are from shoulder to shoulder

What would you recomend for a lift and tire cambo?
My plans were/are 4" x rough country some ~1.5 body lift and 35s with 3-3.5 BS wheels

I had Miata that had 15" rims with ~2" tires on each side so ~19-20 in diameter.. I gotta tell you i felt every little bump on the road and so did every screw in the car. This is why i'm driving a Wrangler and not a Subaru WRX or some other kind of a sports car.
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Old 03-04-2007, 12:23 AM   #22
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for on road use 35s will be ok with the d30/d35 axles.
for real off road use i would change to d44 or bigger axles.
4" lift and 1.25" BL will be perfect for 35s. with 4" lift you´ll have to drop the TC very much. i would install a SYE and CV driveshaft instead of the TC drop to get more ground clearance.

with 35s and stock 3.07 gears driving the TJ will not make much fun.

if you have enough $$$ all this won´t be a problem. if not, i would buy 33s and only 2" lift and a 1"-2" BL. that works better with the stock gears and is much cheaper.
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Old 03-04-2007, 12:37 AM   #23
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I heard anything over 1.5 BL is "really bad"
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Old 03-04-2007, 01:28 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Triple88a View Post
I heard anything over 1.5 BL is "really bad"
what should be bad?
i´ve no problems with my 2" BL.
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Old 03-04-2007, 06:41 AM   #25
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Coming from the mustang world, I know the value of new gears....the motto was "Don't Fear the Gear!"

Geez I still am trying to decide.....part of me says stick with 32"s and 2" lift to keep it simple and not have to worry about any driveline problems or anything and not to mention it'd be much easier to install with fewer parts......but then 33"s w/ with the 3" lift will look nicer and be better offroad.

So could someone answer me this.....with the Rusty's 3" lift....should I expect any problems with the driveline despite the parts it comes with?
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Old 03-04-2007, 06:45 AM   #26
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why don´t you install a 2" lift and a 1" or 1.25" bodylift with an additional MML? that will be enough space for 33s and there won´t be any driveline problms.
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Old 03-04-2007, 06:49 AM   #27
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why don´t you install a 2" lift and a 1" or 1.25" bodylift with an additional MML? that will be enough space for 33s and there won´t be any driveline problms.


Hmmmm.....now there's another option. Had to go an complicate things didn't ya

Wouldn't I run into just as many potential problems with a 1" bodylift as I would just adding another 1" to my suspension lift? Brake lines, fuel lines being too short, etc......vs......driveline vibes, etc?

I really don't mind the extra work of the 3" lift and since it comes with the t-case drop and some other components it seems like it would address any geometry problems, just curious if anyone has this lift and has had any problems after putting it on.
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Old 03-04-2007, 07:59 AM   #28
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i had to drop the TC 0.5" with only a 2" spacer lift. the 4-speed auto tranny is very long and the D44 rear axle is very big. a small 2" lift will cause driveshaft vibes with that short driveshaft. in older TJs with 5-gear manual tranny and D35 axle you can install up to 3" lifts without problems.

a 1" bodylift only incerases the distance between body and frame. if you istall a 1" MML at the same time you only have to put in the 1" distance things. nothing else has to be modified.

i have a 2" BL. with that some more things had to be done. like fuel hoses, fan shrould and some more. installing the 2" BL took about 3-4 hours.
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Old 03-04-2007, 11:09 AM   #29
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Nicolas-Eric did your Body lift come with instructions or anything of that kind? Which was it? Linky?
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Old 03-04-2007, 02:17 PM   #30
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i have the http://performanceaccessories.com/ 2" bodylift. it came with complete instructions. on over 40 sites every little step was explained with pictures.

after the budget boost it was the 2nd thing i installed on a car by my own. it took less than 4 hours.

hre you can see the difference between 2" BB and 2" BB and additional 2" BL. on the left side the BL pucks are already installed. on the right side there´s "only" the 2" BB.
click me

i only did a 2" BL. if you install 1" BL and a 1" MML you only have to put in the eleven 1" bodylift pieces and the 1" motor mounts. thats all.
heres a good write-up for a 1" bodylift:
http://www.4x4xplor.com/bl.html

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