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Old 05-04-2009, 06:49 PM   #1
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Lifting my Jeep. Looking for suggestions

I'm in the process of lifting my Jeep.

I ordered a 4" rough Country lift kit a few days ago.

These are the other things I am ordering:

15x10 4" backspacing CRAGAR Series 397 Soft 8 Black Wheel (5 rims) CRAGAR Wheels 3975712 - CRAGAR Series 397 Soft 8 Black Wheel for Jeep® Vehicles with 5x4.5 Bolt Pattern - Quadratec

1.25" body lift Jeep Accessories - TJ Body Lift

35x12.5x15" BFGoodrich All-Terrain T/A KO


Will all of these components go together well?

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Old 05-05-2009, 01:34 AM   #2
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So they're good?

Anything else that I need to order?

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Old 05-05-2009, 07:19 AM   #3
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the rough country lift doesn't really get good reviews. like it's name suggests, it rides rough, even for a jeep. but if you are ok w/ a rougher ride than you should be fine. what dose that kit come include? which kit did you get? was it the series II or the x series?



check this thread to get more reviews from people who have that lift http://www.wranglerforum.com/f5/tj-l...ews-25145.html
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Old 05-05-2009, 07:38 AM   #4
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If the kit does not come with one I would get a front adjustable track bar. Do not drill a new hole for one as some kits have you do. What axles and gears are you running? With 35's its going to bog down on the highway some what.
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Old 05-05-2009, 07:55 AM   #5
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If your running 35's you'll definately need new gears and depending on what axles you have can sometimes be an issue depending on your wheeling style.

You'll also need or look into getting the following:
SYE & Rear DS
Extended Front Brakelines
Rear Trackbar Bracket

Does the kit come with adjustable controls??? it's help with setting pinion angles.
Like mentioned above Adjustable Front Trackbar highly recommended.
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Old 05-05-2009, 08:08 AM   #6
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Definitely a SYE and CV driveshaft...
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Old 05-05-2009, 08:23 AM   #7
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Definatly get a differant set of shocks, unless you have the 2.2 shocks. I threw my RC ones in the trash.
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Old 05-05-2009, 01:51 PM   #8
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Thanks for the info. I'm a noob when it comes to this stuff. What does SYE mean? Never mind. Just found it. "Slip Yoke Eliminator"

The lift kit is the Series II.

Quote:
If your running 35's you'll definately need new gears and depending on what axles you have can sometimes be an issue depending on your wheeling style.
My Jeep is a 2005 Rocky Mountain Edition with a Dana 44 rear axel. Think that will be OK with the 35's?

Quote:
What axles and gears are you running?
Dana 44 rear, Dana 30 in the front. It's the factory gearing for the Rocky Mountain Edition. Does anybody know what that is? If I need to change it, how much are better gears? I'm almost due for changing the diff fluid anyway.



I can see that I will be learning a lot, and dumping a lot of cash into my Jeep now that I got the off roading bug. I bought a Yamaha Raptor 660R a couple weeks ago and I realized that my Jeep could almost get to a lot of those spots if I only hooked it up a bit.
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Old 05-05-2009, 01:59 PM   #9
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I'd say to get 8" wheels rather than 10". Wheeling in your area involves a lot of rocky trails and the 10" wheel and a 12.50 will be banged up wheels for sure.

Is there any chance of backing out on that lift. Its not a good one.
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Old 05-05-2009, 02:04 PM   #10
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Your are going to be running almost the same setup that I am. I ditched the shocks and bought a set of Old Man Emu's. I also bought a SYE and CV driveshaft. The SYE was the best mod Ive done as far as drivability.

I am running stock gearing on my 35's right now, and you will notice it. I cannot shift into 5th unless I am going down hill because the jeep does not have enough power anymore, but it is good enough to get you around town so you can save up for the gearing. To get my gears changed: I have gotten three quotes for $1500, $2000, and $2500 that includes everything.
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Old 05-05-2009, 02:19 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4point View Post
I'd say to get 8" wheels rather than 10". Wheeling in your area involves a lot of rocky trails and the 10" wheel and a 12.50 will be banged up wheels for sure.

Is there any chance of backing out on that lift. Its not a good one.

8" wheels are wide enough?

I already paid for the lift, so no not really.
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Old 05-05-2009, 02:21 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sb5551 View Post
I have gotten three quotes for $1500, $2000, and $2500 that includes everything.
Yikes. I guess I found a new moneypit.

I thought it would be a couple hundred bucks for gears.
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Old 05-05-2009, 02:22 PM   #13
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I've got the same lift and it is a little rough. (I'm ok with that for now) It does flex well for a short arm lift. as far as the other stuff----what they said
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Old 05-05-2009, 02:47 PM   #14
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where did u get your lift from? most places will take it for a full refund if its done rite away in unopened condition, if that is something u really wanted to do. I used a superlift 4" kit and I love it
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Old 05-05-2009, 03:02 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VegasWrangler View Post
Yikes. I guess I found a new moneypit.

I thought it would be a couple hundred bucks for gears.
It is for the parts. The labor is where you get it because of the complexity of gearing. There are techs out there that will not touch gears and been in the business for years. Personally, this is the only thing on my jeep I will not touch.

Quote:
Originally Posted by pyro View Post
where did u get your lift from? most places will take it for a full refund if its done rite away in unopened condition, if that is something u really wanted to do. I used a superlift 4" kit and I love it
Pyro, Arent you running a long arm? It'll ride ten time nicer than any short arm kit available.
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Old 05-05-2009, 03:17 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VegasWrangler View Post
8" wheels are wide enough?
Yes, they are perfect.
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Old 05-05-2009, 03:20 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VegasWrangler View Post
8" wheels are wide enough?

I already paid for the lift, so no not really.
alot of people suggest running 8" in rims for everything up to 35" tires. And you can still air them down when wheeling. They say its actually more of a chance you may break the bead on the bigger 10" rim. Theres more pressure pushing the bead in place on the smaller rim, than on the wider rim.
Do a search on it. Or maybe Jerry will chime in. I think it was him who I saw explain it well.
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Old 05-05-2009, 03:35 PM   #18
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alot of people suggest running 8" in rims for everything up to 35" tires. And you can still air them down when wheeling. They say its actually more of a chance you may break the bead on the bigger 10" rim. Theres more pressure pushing the bead in place on the smaller rim, than on the wider rim.
Do a search on it. Or maybe Jerry will chime in. I think it was him who I saw explain it well.
You did just fine KBR. That about sums it up.
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Old 05-05-2009, 08:30 PM   #19
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Depending on your wheeling style your fine with the rear D44, but the front will be the weak link. If you have a heavy foot and like the skinny pedal on rocks, could be an issue.

How often do you plan on wheeling and what type, that will help detemine gears & tires.

If only the occasional, then I would say stay on 33's and your gears will be fine. You'll be amazed at what most Jeeps can do with just a little lift & 33's

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Old 05-05-2009, 09:36 PM   #20
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yeah, I was thinking about going with 33's instead. Would they fit on my stock rims?

I don't plan to do anything too crazy. I drive on rocky trails (southern Nevada desert).
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Old 05-05-2009, 10:13 PM   #21
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if you are planning on buying rims then think about buying beadlocks or investing in some staun beadlocks now......u will be able to run the proper rim size and get a good foot print.....dont let the myth of a narrower rim scare you......ive popped em off no matter what the rim width....the science is good but the real life application doesnt work...either way when you you get below 10lbs of air in a tire and rub it into a rut,rock, or root its gonna pop off the bead....just buy your beadlocks now and dont worry about it later...your d44/30 combo will be fine for 35s just make sure your front u joints are only hardened spicer 760s(factory) or better.......dont buy any of the china made ujioints from napa or advanced or any of your local auto parts stores...spicers, super joints, or ctms only.....if you upgrade to chromollys f/r i doubt you will ever have a problem out of your axles with 35s ever
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Old 05-06-2009, 03:28 PM   #22
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I found some 35's on Craig's List for $250: 35/12.5/15 goodyear wrangler mtr

I'm gonna buy them if he still has them.
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Old 05-06-2009, 03:42 PM   #23
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Check them out good. Look for cuts, plugs and chunking. Its a good price but be cautious.
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Old 05-06-2009, 07:19 PM   #24
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According to this thread my rims are already 15x8".

Can I put the 35's on those? Or is the 5.5" backspacing wrong?

Here are the specs:

15x8 aluminum
5 on 4.5" bolt pattern
Backspacing = 5.5"
Offset = +25 mm
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Old 05-06-2009, 09:59 PM   #25
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You can if you get spacers to put the wheel out further. I would just get new rims. There are ones out there that will be less than the cost of spacers like the rockcrawlers.
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Old 05-08-2009, 03:02 PM   #26
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I'm picking up the tires tomorrow.

Think all five will fit in my Jeep if I take the back seat out?
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Old 05-08-2009, 04:21 PM   #27
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yea you can fit them just be creative!
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Old 05-08-2009, 07:21 PM   #28
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I have the same lift. I still have the shock they are abit stiff but not that bad. I was expecting them to be rougher. I am thinking to save for some Bilstein or RE monotubes. Like others said I would with 8 wheels. I used to have 10 with 32x11.50 and I did some scratching on the trails. Plus with the 8 it runs better IMO
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Old 05-11-2009, 03:33 PM   #29
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All 5 fit.



I used rope to tie that top tire down on top of the three tires in the back.

Should be doing the lift on Saturday, or a week from Saturday, depending on when the rest of the parts show up.
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Old 05-11-2009, 03:50 PM   #30
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Did you figure out something for wheels? You will rub the frame with factory wheels.

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