and I am having a few issues that maybe someone else has had...It seems that the bracket is a tad too thick and the Torx bolt that goes in the front wont thread. Has anyone else had this issue before and what did you do? Also where is the best place to run the wires for the lights. Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
06 Wrangler TJ X
33/12.5/15 BFG M/T's on Crager soft 8's
3.25" Rough Country Lift
Rampage Tubular Side Steps
Custom Fab Front Bumper
6.5" Polk Audio DXI 650 in soundbar
As for wiring and such, I sent this to another member a week ago or so..
Originally Posted by BeerMan
OK...hmmm, as for the windshield torx bolts. I would probably hit them once a day with a little PB Blaster a day or 2 prior to trying to unscrew them. Buy a really good T-40 bit and try to avoid using a socket wrench. The way you have to pull on the wrench almost always strips these bolts. Impact drivers are a cool tool to have and not need rather than need and not have. Look around and see if you can get one. I use mine fairly often on stuff that I know has loctite.
If you decide to just use a T-40 on a socket wrench at least take the bit and place it on the screw and give it a decent whack with a hammer first prior to trying to unscrew it. Sometimes that frees up the loctite. Also, try the highest screw on the windshield bracket first. It seems to be the biggest PITA...
To install the wiring I removed the shroud under the windshield wipers. A flat head screw driver pulls out the pull/push pins holding on the wiper arms and will also give you leverage to remove the arms. NOTE!!!!PLACE A PIECE OF TAPE ON YOUR WINDSHIELD UNDER EACH WIPER BLADE SHOWING WHERE YOUR WIPERS ARE "AT REST". If not you will be fiddling around for quite a while after putting all this back together to get your wipers in the right place. Mine were off to start with so this can be a good chance to adjust them.
Then remove the phillips head screws near the windshield, the one on top of the grill/vent, and the ones along the top of the fire wall behind the rubber molding. In the pic at the bottom I pointed at one of the phillips head screws behind the molding, because without removing that molding they are hard to see/find. I just pulled the molding up and out of the way, it is easy and goes right back.
I used this wiring diagram except with a 3 way lighted accessory power switch.
I grounded the negatives coming off the KC lights under the Wiper shroud to the body with some self tapping metal screws and just used the tip of a flat head screw driver to peel back the paint and get a good ground. My positives from both lights were wired together. I just ran them towards the passenger side as it was closer to the battery. In retrospect I should have ran it to the drivers side because I kept coming up short on my wires to and from the relay. I have some pics showing you where I drilled through the wiper shroud. I almost drilled too far toward the outside of the shroud. That shroud meets flush towards the edges so make sure your wire holes are in far enough so they won't pinch. After just looking at the picture I realize I drilled down and toward the outer edge from the screw and should have moved them both in a bit...so don't follow my pic as a model hahaa
The next bit is pretty much just following the wiring diagram above. My advice is that it is simple minus one little thing. Your power switch for your light may look numerous different ways and may say many different things. So once you have your relay hooked up to your battery, your lights power ran to it, your ground, and your wire going under your dash, a wire ran to your fuse box (behind the glove box), and a ground wire ready...Double check your on off/power switch for your lights and make sure that the "power" for your little switch is coming from the fuse box, that the "acc on"( or however they labelled it) is going to the relay, and that the ground is...well, grounded. I smoked a wire and blew a fuse because I thought ACC/ON meant whatever accessory I was tapping into that turned on when my Jeep was on...I was WRONG hahaa. Here are some pics showing where I drilled, where the wire comes through from under the wiper shroud through the firewall, and stuff...
If you have questions just let me know. Good luck!
01 TJ Sahara 4.0 Auto
35s, 4.56s, D35/44, Locked, Lifted,
Dented, Scratched, Broke Windshield,
Warn M8000, 12voltguy, KC's
2 much crap/mods to list
First, how thick is that bracket? Take your screw down to home depot and match its thread pitch. Exactly. Make sure its tappered as well. i wouldnt go to long, less than a 1/4" longer than the bracket or you wont get them snug without washers, you dont want that. As far as power, always grab ignition and accessory from your ignition harness, its heavier gauge wire and can handle the load. Id get constant straight from the battery and use a relay, fuse everything, even if its 2 female connectors one each blade of the fuse. Fusing and using a relay will ensure you a reliable ample power supply that you can install and forget about. Thae screw issue, some of the Jeep vets will without a doubt have a better answer, im an electronics guy. If you have a more precise question, pm me and i'll help out any way i can. Wire colors n stuff. have a good one
I have the kc mounts and had the same prob so I went to ace hardware and got some tapered allen head bolts and problem solved but if they are bare metal bolts don't forget to paint them. I forgot that and now they are ugly bolt heads haha.