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Lockers, performance, uninstall?

7K views 20 replies 10 participants last post by  Flyguychad 
#1 ·
Just bought a 2002 Wrangler X with rear lockers. This is my first rig with lockers and after driving it for a month and a half I am starting to hate them. I do a lot of highway driving and around town driving, but I love being able to to go anywhere if need be. The lockers really kick and drag, and click and bang and make all kinds of noise. In second gear it really bangs when I let off the gas, and get on the gas. It also bangs and jerks really bad when I shift into second. My first question is this all normal? My second question is if someone could point me in the direction of a good read about installing, and preferably uninstalling lockers. Actually any diagrams or info would be great. I really don't know too much about them, and I would love to learn more. From what i have read... they help with traction because they lock both tires together and one won't spin freely.

Anyhelp is appreciated!
 
#2 ·
Hi Chad,

I guess it depends on the locker, but some are barely noticeable at all. For example, the ausie and tru-track are supposed to be very good on the street. maybe you just have a really tightly sprung locker or something is wrong. I had a very tightly clutched locker in a race/street car of mine and it used to click around corners, but never when shifting. Someone else better chime in on that one. Good luck!
 
#11 ·
Thanks Dan, the shifting part may be totally unrelated as I am still learning to drive a manual it could be the transmission??? Not sure really, but If I was to get rid of the locker how would I go about doing that?
Maybe this has a little to do with it ?
The jerking of learning to drive a stick maybe ?
 
#5 ·
Several lockers are pretty notorious for their poor manners when installed into the rear axle, as opposed to those same lockers being fairly well behaved when installed into the front axle.

So no, most lockers that are popular for the rear axles are not poorly behaved like that. I just sounds like the previous owner installed the wrong locker back there. I would suspect it's ether an EZ-Locker, Lockrite, or Aussie locker that you have in your rear axle.

My own rear locker, a Detroit Locker, is very well behaved 99% of the time. The 1% it is not is really not all that bad either.
 
#6 ·
Ok how can I tell what lockers I have? I was told to jack it up and spin the tires. I jacked the whole back end up and both tires were off the ground and both tires spun freely. I am thinking maybe I should have only jacked one side up? Anyways easiest way to tell which lockers I have?
 
#8 ·
I just got a quote from my friend's shop to install a LSD unit... $300 in labor alone. I'd imagine you're looking at something around that price range to have it replaced with something else. Plus the cost of all parts.
 
#15 ·
Definitely could be partly the new manual driver :D I say partly because even when I shift slowly it still bangs and just sounds awful. I swear sometimes I think the rear end is going to fall off. I had all the bushings replaced, and I have yet to check the motor mount. I did just read a previous post about that, and i have been meaning to check that out. So when I jacked up the backend with both tires off the ground I had both tires spinning by hand. When I spun one tire the other one never moved.

Now I am sitting here typing this and thinking to myself.. (remember I am new to this locker business) that if the other tire never spun then they aren't locked together????

When I am driving this Jeep it definitely grabs and turns when I let off the gas, and get on the gas like a locker would. I just have the mentality that I would rather fix it before something really goes wrong and costs me even more money. I was looking online and a Dana 44 spider gear set was around $100 bucks. Not even sure if that's what it is, but that's what I am guessing since its a 2002 X model. Thanks again for the input and insight!
 
#16 ·
i would say its not guaranteed that pinion depth won't change, it could end up being more than just setting back lash, a lot of times you get lucky and sometimes you end up making changes 10 times before its right, and you're also talking pulling and pressing bearings, or replacing bearings.

anywho, it sounds like you need to pull the covers and look inside, post pics if you need help determining what you have in your diffs.
 
#17 ·
That's prolly why I was quoted so high then... he did mention that I'd be responsible for providing bearings and a shim kit (since I told him I'd provide all parts).
 
#18 ·
No, a D44 is not standard on a Jeep Wrangler X. The X model is actually an inline-6 version of the SE model and then you can add on the options you desire. It's possible you have a D44 axle, but somewhat unlikely. Post a picture of your rear diff. (the pumpkin) and we can tell you.
 
#19 ·
I would recommend having someone who is proficient driving a manual take the Jeep for a spin, that would be one way to easily rule out if it's because your new and learning to drive it. With an aggressive locker in the rear and some finesse you should be able to handle it on the street... from what I have seen and heard.

If it's still a problem I would take it in to a shop to have them take a look at for you. I just had a Detroit No-Slip installed in my Jeep last year and you can barely tell it's back there. I replaced the stock LSD unit, the shop I took it to had several LSD's that they replaced with ARB's, Detroits, etc... maybe you could have them do a swap for you and save you some money... my 2000 TJ only had 37,000 miles on the LSD when I took it out and let them have it. Just some things to consider.

Good luck and let us know how it works out.
 
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