Looking to Move to 33's and 3-4" Lift in steps... Would this Work? - Jeep Wrangler Forum
Jeep Wrangler Forum

Go Back   Jeep Wrangler Forum > TJ Jeep Wrangler Forum > TJ General Discussion Forum

Join Wrangler Forum Today


Reply
 
Thread Tools

Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about them on WranglerForum.com
Old 05-14-2013, 11:32 AM   #1
Jeeper
 
n00g7's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Northern VT // Western Wisconsin
Posts: 1,831
Looking to Move to 33's and 3-4" Lift in steps... Would this Work?

2005 Rubicon Manual TJ
Already done planning (I think)... just want confirmation. As I'm doing most of the work myself, I want to take this in steps, maybe about 1-3 months in between each. Any suggestions?

Currently:
2.5in OME Spring Lift w/ shocks all around, Disconnects, 31s

Stage 1:
Metalcloak Fenders F&R w/ 35" cutout

Stage 2:
33's on 15" wheel.... 3.25-3.5 BS... big brake kit **if** I can find one, otherwise figure something out.

Stage 3:
Currie/savvy Steering, Adj. F&R trackbar, tom woods cardan shaft

Stage 4:
tummy tuck (rokmen?) bl and mml (brown dog?) if needed

Stage 5:
Currie/Savvy 3 or 4" spring lift with adjustable arms all around. rancho 9000 shocks F&R

Stage ?:
Build F&R rubi d44, relocate stock control arm mounts on axle, move to 35s?

__________________
That moment when you look at a really nice JK and think to yourself, "Well I SUPPOSE I could see myself trading in my TJ for one of those, but for those ugly ass door handles."
n00g7 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 05-15-2013, 07:06 AM   #2
Jeeper
 
n00g7's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Northern VT // Western Wisconsin
Posts: 1,831
Are crickets a good thing or bad thing?

__________________
That moment when you look at a really nice JK and think to yourself, "Well I SUPPOSE I could see myself trading in my TJ for one of those, but for those ugly ass door handles."
n00g7 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 05-15-2013, 07:24 AM   #3
Jeeper
 
flflash's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 519
Just something to think about, if you put a 1" BL in before step 2 that should keep the 33's from rubbing with your 2.5" spring lift, if you do lifted motor mounts at the same time you wont have to relocate your fan shroud and it will help your driveline angles.
flflash is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 05-15-2013, 07:33 AM   #4
Motorized Toy Collector

WF Supporting Member
 
TJDave's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Eastern WA State
Posts: 2,894
You will not be able to do stage 4 without the arms from stage 5 and a rear double cardon drive shaft.
TJDave is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 05-15-2013, 07:48 AM   #5
Jeeper
 
n00g7's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Northern VT // Western Wisconsin
Posts: 1,831
Quote:
Originally Posted by TJDave View Post
You will not be able to do stage 4 without the arms from stage 5 and a rear double cardon drive shaft.
I'll only be on a 2.5" lift and have the cardan shaft at that point... even so I'll still need adj. control arms? Would I just need the top control arms in the rear?
__________________
That moment when you look at a really nice JK and think to yourself, "Well I SUPPOSE I could see myself trading in my TJ for one of those, but for those ugly ass door handles."
n00g7 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 05-15-2013, 07:51 AM   #6
Jeeper
 
n00g7's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Northern VT // Western Wisconsin
Posts: 1,831
Quote:
Originally Posted by flflash View Post
Just something to think about, if you put a 1" BL in before step 2 that should keep the 33's from rubbing with your 2.5" spring lift, if you do lifted motor mounts at the same time you wont have to relocate your fan shroud and it will help your driveline angles.
Those fenders should clear 33's, I also really want to avoid doing a body lift, but will probably have to do one with any new skid plate.
__________________
That moment when you look at a really nice JK and think to yourself, "Well I SUPPOSE I could see myself trading in my TJ for one of those, but for those ugly ass door handles."
n00g7 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 05-15-2013, 08:08 AM   #7
Jeeper
 
PStov98TJ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Long Beach, Mississippi
Posts: 2,021
Just another thought, you don't need that much backspacing on your wheels. 4.25"-3.5" would suffice
__________________
OME 2.5" coils and Nitro Shocks, Metalcloak front track bar, JKS Quick discos, 33x12.50 Goodyear MTR's w/Kevlar, 15x8 Pacer wheels, thedirtworx rear tire carrier
PStov98TJ is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 05-15-2013, 08:34 AM   #8
Jeeper
 
homebrwd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Ashburn, VA
Posts: 1,085
Quote:
Originally Posted by flflash View Post
Just something to think about, if you put a 1" BL in before step 2 that should keep the 33's from rubbing with your 2.5" spring lift, if you do lifted motor mounts at the same time you wont have to relocate your fan shroud and it will help your driveline angles.
Wont rub with the metal cloaks.

33s at stock height with zero rubbing. These are 3.75in BS wheels btw.

Your plan sounds good. A lot like mine except I didnt start with a lift and I did the tummy tuck already.


DSC_2872 by homebrwd, on Flickr
homebrwd is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 05-15-2013, 09:19 AM   #9
Jeeper
 
n00g7's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Northern VT // Western Wisconsin
Posts: 1,831
Quote:
Originally Posted by homebrwd View Post
Wont rub with the metal cloaks.

33s at stock height with zero rubbing. These are 3.75in BS wheels btw.

Your plan sounds good. A lot like mine except I didnt start with a lift and I did the tummy tuck already.
DSC_2872 by homebrwd, on Flickr
Which one? And how much body lift did you need to do? Also, nice job on the turn signals. Did you just buy some JK ones and cut a hole or is there a kit?
__________________
That moment when you look at a really nice JK and think to yourself, "Well I SUPPOSE I could see myself trading in my TJ for one of those, but for those ugly ass door handles."
n00g7 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 05-15-2013, 10:27 AM   #10
Jeeper
 
homebrwd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Ashburn, VA
Posts: 1,085
I went with the UCF Ultra High Clearance so I had to run a 1.25in BL and get the lopro mount for it as well. As for the turn signals they are from superbrightleds.com They came with the black grommet and required a 3in hole to be cut.


DSC_2875 by homebrwd, on Flickr
homebrwd is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 05-15-2013, 11:08 AM   #11
Jeeper
 
flflash's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 519
Yes with those fenders the front wont have much clearance problems however in the rear this is where you run into problems:

These pics are of a 2003 TJ with BFG 33's on 4.25 BS wheels, 3.5 SA BDS lift and 1" body lift it outflex's Jeeps with much more extreme ( Read Exspensive ) suspensions mostly due to alot of time being spent on shock lengths,bumpstops and correct clearance.

The rear of the tub just in front of the tire.

And the front edge of the rear lip.

With the extreme backspacing on the wheels your planing on using it will help but these two areas will limit your wheel travel with 33's with anything less than 4"s of lift. Sure you can bump stop it to death to keep it from rubbing but that kinda defeats the whole purpose in my opinion.
flflash is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 05-15-2013, 11:25 AM   #12
Jeeper
 
homebrwd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Ashburn, VA
Posts: 1,085
I dont rub at all

homebrwd is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 05-15-2013, 11:30 AM   #13
Jeeper
 
FingerTight's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Woodinville
Posts: 21
I've got your OME setup with no other mods and 33s, no rubbing though I haven't fully flexed it out yet
FingerTight is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 05-15-2013, 11:32 AM   #14
Jeeper
 
bobthetj03's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Lake County, NorCal.
Posts: 1,764
Your rig is very cabable how it sits now. This is depending on how much life you have left on your 31's. My 2 cents, I'd make.....

stage 1: adjustable arms all around.
stage 2: steering upgrade, TB's Cardan DS.
stage 3: Black Magic brakes/Centric rotors up front (should stop you on 33's just fine)
stage 4: Novak cable shift for TC, TT(with Rokmen's you only need 1/2" BL or maybe none at all)
Stage 5: Cloaks and 33's

If your 31's are shot, I'd bump stage 5 to stage 4.
__________________
http://www.wranglerforum.com/f118/pr...er-836497.html

"The little Jeep that could!"

www.norcal-jeeps.com
bobthetj03 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 05-15-2013, 11:35 AM   #15
Jeeper
 
flflash's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 519
Like I said with that extreme amount of backspacing you may not. However I dont recomend using that much backspacing it triples the load on axles, bearings, balljoints, wheel studs and even the wheel center itself.
flflash is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 05-15-2013, 11:55 AM   #16
Jeeper
 
homebrwd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Ashburn, VA
Posts: 1,085
Quote:
Originally Posted by flflash View Post
Like I said with that extreme amount of backspacing you may not. However I dont recomend using that much backspacing it triples the load on axles, bearings, balljoints, wheel studs and even the wheel center itself.
While I understand that it increases the load on these items, do you have anything to back up the "triples" claim? I am far from the only person who wheels and uses wheels with a backspacing of 3.75.
homebrwd is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 05-15-2013, 12:03 PM   #17
Rock-Rubber

WF Supporting Member
 
GoldenSahara00's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: SCPA
Posts: 16,679
This thread...

IMO, do the tuck first, so adjustable rear upper arms, skid plate, novak shifter, new rear shaft if you need it etc.

Next do the hilines and 33s + blackmagic pads+centric rotors.

The steering, track bars etc should all be fine, if they are fine now. If you have metal cloaks for 35s plus that much lift, I would just toss the 35s on right away instead of 33s. You should through a HD steering kit in there as well, but that's about it. With a lighter TJ the BM brakes should still provide suffecient stopping power for 35s. I have them and would be comfortable running 35s on them.

You can upgrade your arms and then go to bigger springs if you want at that point.

Also think about throwing in some skids etc while your doing this. Engine, gas tank, diff covers, steering box, etc.
__________________
Ryan - A good eye, a light foot, and a smart rig.
Bolt-ons are boring
AMERICAN JEEPER
My Build - http://www.wranglerforum.com/f118/pr...a00-74622.html
Rausch Creek Trip: 2014 Trip Coming Soon
GoldenSahara00 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 05-15-2013, 01:50 PM   #18
Jeeper
 
n00g7's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Northern VT // Western Wisconsin
Posts: 1,831
Quote:
Originally Posted by GoldenSahara00 View Post
This thread...
Glad you find it amusing, but thanks for your input.

Going to start with 1" BL, 1"MML w/ new brown dog hardware, bolt on skid plate, adj. control arms all around and CV shaft.

Everything else should fall into place after that.

As for going straight to 35's, I don't really feel the need to run 35's atm or deal with with the stress they'll put on everything else.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bobthetj03
If your 31's are shot, I'd bump stage 5 to stage 4.
I've been trying to destroy them, but they'll still eat about half a quarter...about the same as when I checked a year ago. It's hard to justify spending $1200 to replace rubber that doesn't need replacing.
__________________
That moment when you look at a really nice JK and think to yourself, "Well I SUPPOSE I could see myself trading in my TJ for one of those, but for those ugly ass door handles."
n00g7 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 05-15-2013, 02:05 PM   #19
Jeeper
 
flflash's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 519
Quote:
Originally Posted by homebrwd View Post
While I understand that it increases the load on these items, do you have anything to back up the "triples" claim? I am far from the only person who wheels and uses wheels with a backspacing of 3.75.
35 years of experiance and a degree in automotive engineering.

In a perfect world you would want the center line of your tire to be equal with the center line of your bearings but even in the stock configuration this isnt really possible so you try to keep it as close as you can.
In the real world I normaly just use common sense but there is actually a formula for calculation stress muliplication due to lateral force changes.
You'll have to do a considerable amount of measuring to use it but here you go -

(sigma1 - sigma2)^2 + sigma1^2 + sigma2^2 = 2*sigma(y)^2
sigma1 = x-direction max shear stress
sigma2 = y-direction max shear stress
sigma(y) = yield stress
flflash is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 05-15-2013, 02:22 PM   #20
Rock-Rubber

WF Supporting Member
 
GoldenSahara00's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: SCPA
Posts: 16,679
Quote:
Originally Posted by n00g7 View Post
Glad you find it amusing, but thanks for your input.

Going to start with 1" BL, 1"MML w/ new brown dog hardware, bolt on skid plate, adj. control arms all around and CV shaft.

Everything else should fall into place after that.

As for going straight to 35's, I don't really feel the need to run 35's atm or deal with with the stress they'll put on everything else.


I've been trying to destroy them, but they'll still eat about half a quarter...about the same as when I checked a year ago. It's hard to justify spending $1200 to replace rubber that doesn't need replacing.
I wasn't ing at you, man. Just some other things.

Sounds like a good plan. I just mean don't go to 33s, then 35s. Unless you don't plan on being on 35s for years. I figure only fork out the cash on new tires once.
__________________
Ryan - A good eye, a light foot, and a smart rig.
Bolt-ons are boring
AMERICAN JEEPER
My Build - http://www.wranglerforum.com/f118/pr...a00-74622.html
Rausch Creek Trip: 2014 Trip Coming Soon
GoldenSahara00 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 05-15-2013, 02:23 PM   #21
Jeeper
 
n00g7's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Northern VT // Western Wisconsin
Posts: 1,831
Quote:
Originally Posted by flflash View Post
35 years of experiance and a degree in automotive engineering.

In a perfect world you would want the center line of your tire to be equal with the center line of your bearings but even in the stock configuration this isnt really possible so you try to keep it as close as you can.
In the real world I normaly just use common sense but there is actually a formula for calculation stress muliplication due to lateral force changes.
You'll have to do a considerable amount of measuring to use it but here you go -

(sigma1 - sigma2)^2 + sigma1^2 + sigma2^2 = 2*sigma(y)^2
sigma1 = x-direction max shear stress
sigma2 = y-direction max shear stress
sigma(y) = yield stress
That's nice and all, and I understand being an engineer myself, but the reason for 3.5 backspacing isn't choice; I can't find a wheel I want in 15x8 that doesn't have 3.5 BS.
__________________
That moment when you look at a really nice JK and think to yourself, "Well I SUPPOSE I could see myself trading in my TJ for one of those, but for those ugly ass door handles."
n00g7 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 05-15-2013, 02:26 PM   #22
Jeeper
 
n00g7's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Northern VT // Western Wisconsin
Posts: 1,831
Quote:
Originally Posted by GoldenSahara00 View Post
I wasn't ing at you, man. Just some other things.

Sounds like a good plan. I just mean don't go to 33s, then 35s. Unless you don't plan on being on 35s for years. I figure only fork out the cash on new tires once.
Yeah, I plan on running the 33's and evaluating whether I want to go bigger... for peace of mind I would start building the axles in preparation to run 35's, so I'd have plenty of time to beat on the 33's and just run the 35's as replacements.
__________________
That moment when you look at a really nice JK and think to yourself, "Well I SUPPOSE I could see myself trading in my TJ for one of those, but for those ugly ass door handles."
n00g7 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 05-15-2013, 02:32 PM   #23
Rock-Rubber

WF Supporting Member
 
GoldenSahara00's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: SCPA
Posts: 16,679
You honestly don't need to do much to your axles unless you really plan on thrashing them. I have had my 33s for just over 2 years and I'm about ready to swap to 35s. they still have 75-80% tread. I wish I would have just been able to drop that coin on 35s. I'm hoping to be able to trade up on a nice set. Sounds like you'll have a very solid setup on 33s though.
__________________
Ryan - A good eye, a light foot, and a smart rig.
Bolt-ons are boring
AMERICAN JEEPER
My Build - http://www.wranglerforum.com/f118/pr...a00-74622.html
Rausch Creek Trip: 2014 Trip Coming Soon
GoldenSahara00 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 05-15-2013, 05:41 PM   #24
Jeeper
 
n00g7's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Northern VT // Western Wisconsin
Posts: 1,831
Quote:
Originally Posted by GoldenSahara00 View Post
You honestly don't need to do much to your axles unless you really plan on thrashing them. I have had my 33s for just over 2 years and I'm about ready to swap to 35s. they still have 75-80% tread. I wish I would have just been able to drop that coin on 35s. I'm hoping to be able to trade up on a nice set. Sounds like you'll have a very solid setup on 33s though.
I drive like an idiot, i.e., I don't drive my jeep much different than my M3. I got the rubicon specifically for the LSD so I don't stuff it around a corner in the wet.

On a jeepier note, I put in 90% of my order with Jeff @ Rokmen.Everything but the CV shaft, which I'll deal with once everything else is in place...

On order:
Belly Pan
Adj control arms all 4 corners
1" BL
JKS Adj. Trackbar
CV Trackbar mount and shock extensions.
Brown Dog 1" MML and new engine mounts
(and because I wanted it, more PB blaster and two new CDI torque wrenches from amazon)

Now to work some OT and not blow my AMX up at the bar.
__________________
That moment when you look at a really nice JK and think to yourself, "Well I SUPPOSE I could see myself trading in my TJ for one of those, but for those ugly ass door handles."
n00g7 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 05-15-2013, 10:12 PM   #25
Rock-Rubber

WF Supporting Member
 
GoldenSahara00's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: SCPA
Posts: 16,679
Sounds good to me that's what I am trying to do, I have 2 pay checks coming at the end of the month, meantime I can't do anything... not fair.
__________________
Ryan - A good eye, a light foot, and a smart rig.
Bolt-ons are boring
AMERICAN JEEPER
My Build - http://www.wranglerforum.com/f118/pr...a00-74622.html
Rausch Creek Trip: 2014 Trip Coming Soon
GoldenSahara00 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 05-15-2013, 11:36 PM   #26
Jeeper
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: NW burbs IL
Posts: 1,075
sounds like a good plan. I'd wait on the suspension lift, after you install the BL and MML buy the metal cloaks and throw on your 33s. you should be able to fit 33s no problem with a 1" BL and Metal cloaks if not switch to MCE fenders. I ran a BL and MCE fenders for a while on 33s all I had to do was remove the inner rear fenders and add a few washers in the steering so it wouldn't rub the tires on the lower front CAs.
97flexy is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 05-15-2013, 11:48 PM   #27
Jeeper
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: NW burbs IL
Posts: 1,075
one more thing.... don't forget about under armor, for instance gas tank skid, and steering box skid are two cheap mods that will help your jeep a lot on the trail. while building my rig I did all the armor and safety stuff first. Then when it was time to lift it I didn't need to since I'm on 35s with a 1.25" BL. might want to get yourself a winch, synthetic line, and cage too
__________________
My Low Budget LCG Build
97flexy is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 05-16-2013, 12:13 AM   #28
Jeeper
 
n00g7's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Northern VT // Western Wisconsin
Posts: 1,831
Quote:
Originally Posted by 97flexy View Post
one more thing.... don't forget about under armor, for instance gas tank skid, and steering box skid are two cheap mods that will help your jeep a lot on the trail. while building my rig I did all the armor and safety stuff first. Then when it was time to lift it I didn't need to since I'm on 35s with a 1.25" BL. might want to get yourself a winch, synthetic line, and cage too
Always more to do, but what I just got should keep me busy for a few months. By then I'll have some more cash for other stuff. I'm going to paint the entire chassis as I do this, so it's gonna take a bit of time, esp. since I'll be out the next two weekends. Though I might take some chassis saver to the lake for some beer 30 painting of the front end after a day on the water.
__________________
That moment when you look at a really nice JK and think to yourself, "Well I SUPPOSE I could see myself trading in my TJ for one of those, but for those ugly ass door handles."
n00g7 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 05-16-2013, 12:16 AM   #29
Jeeper
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: NW burbs IL
Posts: 1,075
Quote:
Originally Posted by n00g7 View Post
Always more to do, but what I just got should keep me busy for a few months. By then I'll have some more cash for other stuff. I'm going to paint the entire chassis as I do this, so it's gonna take a bit of time, esp. since I'll be out the next two weekends. Though I might take some chassis saver to the lake for some beer 30 painting of the front end after a day on the water.
I found that rubber spray does the best in the midwest winters and doesn't peel like paint does. I started rubberizing my heep, frame and all under components.
97flexy is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 05-16-2013, 01:30 AM   #30
Jeeper
 
n00g7's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Northern VT // Western Wisconsin
Posts: 1,831
Quote:
Originally Posted by 97flexy View Post
I found that rubber spray does the best in the midwest winters and doesn't peel like paint does. I started rubberizing my heep, frame and all under components.
I'll take a look into that, my plan is to call up magnet paints and ask them what will work best over chassis saver. Jeep is in CA (shhh) no rust just rock scrapes so looking to seal it up prior to a possible move back.

__________________
That moment when you look at a really nice JK and think to yourself, "Well I SUPPOSE I could see myself trading in my TJ for one of those, but for those ugly ass door handles."
n00g7 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Jeep Wrangler Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off




» Featured Product

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:50 AM.



Jeep®, Wrangler, Liberty, Wagoneer, Cherokee, and Grand Cherokee are copyrighted and trademarked to Chrysler Motors LLC.
Wranglerforum.com is not in any way associated with the Chrysler Motors LLC