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Old 10-18-2011, 06:42 PM   #1
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Looking to purchase TJ <$8k Need advice

New to the forum, looking to purchase TJ <$8k Need advice..

Questions:

*Is the 2.5L alright vs the I6? [i have read people saying you cant really get over 70mph in it, haha, not that I plan on driving the wrangler fast] I dont really need a ton of power, I will take it offroad at most twice a winter... Most of the driving will be around town.
*What kind of real-life gas mileage do the I4 and I6 get around town?
*What are the most common parts to break on a wrangler ~100K miles?
*Every car has certain quirks with it, what are some things I should look out for when test-driving/ looking at local jeeps that are for sale?
*Are the TJ jeeps significantly "better" than YJ?


Stuff I must have:

*5spd
*<120k miles
*NO body rust
*<$8k

Would like:
*Hardtop
*I6
*Lift already installed
*Bushwacker Fender flares already installed
*Bigger tires

I have a z28 LS1 camaro and know more that end of cars, I don't really know all that much about jeeps. Looking to buy one for winter while i'm in college. Thanks!

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Old 10-18-2011, 07:04 PM   #2
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Your budget is realistic for all you needs and many if your wants.

The fender flares you can just buy.

Get a straight 6 over the 4 IMO. Watch for rust and find out what has been replaced such as shocks, radiator, transmission etc...

There are 100k easy miles and hard ones....all depends.

I nearly bought a restored 1998 last year, soft top only, 5 speed, red, flares, nice rims, and VERY clean with 150k for 7500.

Condition on these things matters as much as miles almost.

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Old 10-18-2011, 07:51 PM   #3
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Stick with the I6 and 5 speed. ( X Model, Sport and up) SE's are 4 bangers.

Owning a Z... you won't be happy with the 4 cylinder.. ( IMHO )

What is your ultimate goal for useage? cruiser or offroader? This will dictate what you want to look for in options such at axles, gears etc.... since there are options that will allow you to upgrade later at a better cost to you.

Where are you located? Rust belt? Desert?

I got my 04 X 5 speed for $9k with 108k on the odo.... They are out there... good ones and bad ones.... gotta weed them out and get what YOU want/need.

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Old 10-18-2011, 08:23 PM   #4
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Stick with the I6 and 5 speed. ( X Model, Sport and up) SE's are 4 bangers.

Owning a Z... you won't be happy with the 4 cylinder.. ( IMHO )

What is your ultimate goal for useage? cruiser or offroader? This will dictate what you want to look for in options such at axles, gears etc.... since there are options that will allow you to upgrade later at a better cost to you.

Where are you located? Rust belt? Desert?

I got my 04 X 5 speed for $9k with 108k on the odo.... They are out there... good ones and bad ones.... gotta weed them out and get what YOU want/need.

BTW.... WELCOME TO WF!!!!

Thanks! Located in NY/PA region. My usage will basically be around town while I'm away at school in the winter {camaro is in storage and is only used in summers}. So honestly it will NOT see much offroading, at most maybe once or twice just screwing around. Pretty sure they might have shut down the place my friend and I used to offroad his Cherokee..


One question I forgot to ask, is a hardtop worth the extra $$$ if I can find a TJ that comes with one? Like I mentioned this will only be used in winter, so a hard top would be much better than a soft top then right?
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Old 10-18-2011, 08:50 PM   #5
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Find one with a hard top. They are expensive to buy later. They are very nice in the winter. Jeeps are a blast in the summer. Doors off and no top and you will be in heaven. Soft tops are a lot cheaper to find.

I used to live out that way.
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Old 10-18-2011, 08:54 PM   #6
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I went from an 4 cylinder wrangler to a 6 cylinder wrangler. The difference between the two is night and day. Sure some people say they drive their 4 cylinder at 65 mph, but it takes your foot to the floor to get there....and you can't pass cars. The 6 cylinder has the balls to pass cars, and cruise at 75.

They will get nearly the same gas mileage. A 2.5L with a 5 spd would probably get the best mpgs.....if you drive it like a grandma. I always found myself driving my old 2.5L very aggressively, so I couldn't really be efficient.
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Old 10-18-2011, 09:14 PM   #7
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I just recently bought a 4 cyl. It gets an avg of 17 mpg mixed city and hwy. It has 31x10.5-15s on it, ATs. It is incredibly slow, but I still enjoy driving it. If I could go back, I'd get the 6.
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Old 10-18-2011, 10:03 PM   #8
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long story short, I will be turning around and selling this wrangler [if I end up buying one] in a little over a year once I graduate.. So its looking like I'll just get the I4...

Going to be hard to find a "cheap" wrangler with a hardtop seems
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Old 10-18-2011, 10:33 PM   #9
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get I6, its gonna last longer, and plus even the 6 doesnt have much power.
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Old 10-18-2011, 10:35 PM   #10
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my friend putt 33's on his 4 and he can only hit like 55-60mph
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Old 10-18-2011, 10:44 PM   #11
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My 6 gets around 16 17 mpg's with the top on and 13-14 with the top off. But i have an automatic.
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Old 10-18-2011, 10:50 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by sixstringking713 View Post
long story short, I will be turning around and selling this wrangler [if I end up buying one] in a little over a year once I graduate.. So its looking like I'll just get the I4...

Going to be hard to find a "cheap" wrangler with a hardtop seems
you could end up trying to sell it for a while if you get the 4. everyone wants the 6 and they sell much easier.
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Old 10-18-2011, 10:56 PM   #13
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If you plan to do any off roading or playing at all stay away from the Dana 35. Look for something with the Dana 44 or an 8.8 swap. If I could re buy my jeep, I would ask what rear axle, if it had the 35, I'd turn around and walk away..... Hope your looking for a good time and not gas milage! The 2.5 and 4.0 get about the same. 17 tops. You'll have way more fun with the strait 6
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Old 10-18-2011, 11:01 PM   #14
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Quote:
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you could end up trying to sell it for a while if you get the 4. everyone wants the 6 and they sell much easier.
It took me almost 3 months to sell my 2.5L.
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Old 10-18-2011, 11:08 PM   #15
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If you plan to do any off roading or playing at all stay away from the Dana 35. Look for something with the Dana 44 or an 8.8 swap. If I could re buy my jeep, I would ask what rear axle, if it had the 35, I'd turn around and walk away..... Hope your looking for a good time and not gas milage! The 2.5 and 4.0 get about the same. 17 tops. You'll have way more fun with the strait 6
well my ls1 M6 camaro is faster than either engine in the jeep.. , its really not a problem if the jeep is slow. My old winter car was a 1993 buick lesabre w/ the 3800 v6, doubt it could be much worse than that. a tree fell on it this past summer and the insurance company gave me a check in the mail for double what i paid for it..
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Old 10-19-2011, 12:27 AM   #16
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It took me almost 3 months to sell my 2.5L.
i hear ya. i think i put my 99 for sale around december and i didn't sell it until the end of february this year. it still ran fine and it even came with an 8.8, 360v8, and an nv4500 all uninstalled
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Old 10-19-2011, 12:42 AM   #17
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i hear ya. i think i put my 99 for sale around december and i didn't sell it until the end of february this year. it still ran fine and it even came with an 8.8, 360v8, and an nv4500 all uninstalled
of anything this is to my benefit in a way.. I'm not too worried about selling it if I get it for a good price. I'm going to have to search around tho.

where are the "common" places for TJ's to rust for me to look when I go out looking at these ones for sale?
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Old 10-19-2011, 12:50 AM   #18
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of anything this is to my benefit in a way.. I'm not too worried about selling it if I get it for a good price. I'm going to have to search around tho.

where are the "common" places for TJ's to rust for me to look when I go out looking at these ones for sale?
in NY and PA they could be all surface rust everywhere underneath. i've also heard around hinges on the hood and tailgate and doors are bad rust spots.

i had a story similar to yours when i bought my jeep. i had just gotten a 2010 camaro and loved it for a week or 2. then i really saw a lot of flaws in it and wanted to get rid of it after 3 months. i traded it on my 2003 rubicon expecting to keep it for a year or so and get something else. i ended up loving my jeep and it has been my favorite most reliable vehicle. my point to all this is there is a high chance you will end up keeping it.
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Old 10-19-2011, 01:00 AM   #19
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in NY and PA they could be all surface rust everywhere underneath. i've also heard around hinges on the hood and tailgate and doors are bad rust spots.

i had a story similar to yours when i bought my jeep. i had just gotten a 2010 camaro and loved it for a week or 2. then i really saw a lot of flaws in it and wanted to get rid of it after 3 months. i traded it on my 2003 rubicon expecting to keep it for a year or so and get something else. i ended up loving my jeep and it has been my favorite most reliable vehicle. my point to all this is there is a high chance you will end up keeping it.
did you have an SS camaro or the v6?

in my case, I bought my camaro in high school and put a lot of money into it as far as racing springs, shocks, sway bars, subframe connectors etc, because I knew I was going to keep it for a long, long time. So it's pretty much set in stone that the camaro is staying in my stable of cars {or atleast till I get a c6z06} here is a pic of it:



but this isnt an LS1 forum, so i'll stop rambling:
I see your point, and yeah there is a high probability I will end up liking the wrangler a lot and want to keep it.. However, I am pretty much set on moving out to CA once I graduate and its going to be a PITA to bring the camaro out there to begin with, not going to want to take 2 cars out there. I figure if I REALLY like it, i'll sell it once I graduate, once I get a job and whatnot maybe I'll buy another one that's a I6 and keep it.. I'm kind of just looking for a reliable, 4wd, badassmobile to last me 1 1/2 winters.

BTW, when I mentioned NO body rust in my "needs", this is more of a monetary thing than anything. If there is surface rust underneath, that can be dealt with with a couple spray cans of that rubber crap, a wire brush, and a day of my time.. Just dont want gaping holes in the body when I go to sell it..
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Old 10-19-2011, 01:23 AM   #20
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did you have an SS camaro or the v6?
it was an ss with no options except the rs package. it is still my favorite looking car of the modern day but it was too big and bulky to drive.
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Old 10-19-2011, 02:14 AM   #21
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Basically every Jeep in my area has rust. Hinges always rust, rockers rust, floor boards rust out, gas tank skid plate, fenders always rust, and any exposed metal. Also, frames can be a huge problem on high mileage wranglers.

Wranglers can be very problematic with salted roads, which northeast Ohio has. you have to be very careful when looking.
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Old 10-19-2011, 02:17 AM   #22
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If you plan to do any off roading or playing at all stay away from the Dana 35. Look for something with the Dana 44 or an 8.8 swap. If I could re buy my jeep, I would ask what rear axle, if it had the 35, I'd turn around and walk away..... Hope your looking for a good time and not gas milage! The 2.5 and 4.0 get about the same. 17 tops. You'll have way more fun with the strait 6
Hmmm whats so wrong with the 35?? I run a 35 and well..


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Old 10-19-2011, 02:42 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by jkaufman_95

Hmmm whats so wrong with the 35?? I run a 35 and well..
http://www.billhughes.com/dana35c/

That comes up when you google "D35c. " I think that might answer your question
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Old 10-19-2011, 03:01 AM   #24
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http://www.billhughes.com/dana35c/

That comes up when you google "D35c. " I think that might answer your question
All I'm saying is it's not as bad as everyone makes it out to be. If you use it right. And with 31 tires they are fine. Even better with a super 35 kit. Do I plan on keeping them forever? Hell no. When my jeep is no longer a dd and has bigger than a three inch lift and 31's it will have bigger axles. But this guy (the op) isn't talking about a comp rig. He's talking about a winter vehicle with some fun on the side. I was pointing out that you can do a lot with a d35 rear
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Old 10-19-2011, 11:07 AM   #25
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Really really test drive that 4 banger if you look at getting one. I said the same thing, thinking it would be fine but after about two years I couldn't take it anymore and took the first excuse I could to get a 4.0l. And again, you're only luck selling the 2.5l is probably going to be someone who either doesn't know enough about Jeeps or someone who thinks they can live with it.

Good luck.
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Old 10-19-2011, 11:10 AM   #26
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Really really test drive that 4 banger if you look at getting one. I said the same thing, thinking it would be fine but after about two years I couldn't take it anymore and took the first excuse I could to get a 4.0l. And again, you're only luck selling the 2.5l is probably going to be someone who either doesn't know enough about Jeeps or someone who thinks they can live with it.

Good luck.
I had a 2.5 for awhile, sold it on eBay in a month. To a guy who had had two 4.0. But never driven a 2.5. My mechanic gave it a clean bill of health. And the guy *claims* that it blew up the first time he drove it. 3 weeks after buying it. According to him. He unloaded it off the trailer and left it for 3 weeks.
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Old 10-19-2011, 12:01 PM   #27
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If you plan to do any off roading or playing at all stay away from the Dana 35. Look for something with the Dana 44 or an 8.8 swap. If I could re buy my jeep, I would ask what rear axle, if it had the 35, I'd turn around and walk away..... Hope your looking for a good time and not gas milage! The 2.5 and 4.0 get about the same. 17 tops. You'll have way more fun with the strait 6
I too just bought my 97 4.0 auto (w/73,000 miles) about a month ago, and didn't know a darn thing about the axle differences. When I learned about them on this forum, I checked my rear axle and was please to find the Dana 44. Not that I will upgrade it, but I was pleased that mine had this rear axle, as I am learning it was an option. Some even say 1997 TJs with the Dana 44 were hit or miss. Here's my "rear end"!
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Old 10-19-2011, 12:45 PM   #28
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As for MPG, I'd still got with the 4.0. In my 2.5l, I maybe got 17-18 while it was stock. In my 4.0l, I consistently got 22+ MPG before I lifted it.
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Old 10-19-2011, 01:35 PM   #29
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I just bought a 2000 Wrangler SE, I4, 5 speed with a 2.5" lift and bigger tires (not sure of the size as I'm at work now) for $5700. It had 134K miles and needed new shocks and a new soft top. I have no problem maintaining 70 on the Interstate but it does take some time to get there and I don't really enjoy the thrashing.

By the way, to all of you who say if you own a fast car you won't enjoy a 4 banger Jeep, that's BS. I have a '78 Trans Am with a 400 and I've owned a 455 powered '68 Cutlass and 455 4 speed '73 Trans Am. They were all beasts and very different cars than the Jeep. Different fun, but just as much fun. My daily driver is a 2007 VW Passat with a 2.0 turbo. It's no slouch either.
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Old 10-19-2011, 01:40 PM   #30
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I just bought a 2000 Wrangler SE, I4, 5 speed with a 2.5" lift and bigger tires (not sure of the size as I'm at work now) for $5700. It had 134K miles and needed new shocks and a new soft top. I have no problem maintaining 70 on the Interstate but it does take some time to get there and I don't really enjoy the thrashing.

By the way, to all of you who say if you own a fast car you won't enjoy a 4 banger Jeep, that's BS. I have a '78 Trans Am with a 400 and I've owned a 455 powered '68 Cutlass and 455 4 speed '73 Trans Am. They were all beasts and very different cars than the Jeep. Different fun, but just as much fun. My daily driver is a 2007 VW Passat with a 2.0 turbo. It's no slouch either.
I owned a 2000 i4, with 27k miles. Super swamper tires, stock hight. I would be doing the 55 mph speed limit by the time I was at the next town to mine, pedal to the floor, oh yeah. The next town? 12 miles.

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