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Old 03-31-2008, 09:58 PM   #1
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Looking to put 33s on A TJ - Lift question

I am looking to put 33s on a TJ. I am looking for some suggestions on a 4" suspension lift.

I am looking for something that will be good on a daily driver but I shouldn't be afraid to take it offroad.

Can anyone recommend a good lift kit?

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Old 03-31-2008, 10:09 PM   #2
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33" tires can easily be made to fit with a 2" budget boost system and a 1" body lift.... but it comes down to how much you are willing(can't) to spend really.

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Old 03-31-2008, 10:11 PM   #3
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Well I was looking to keep the kit price to 1k or under. I have heard some bad things about body lifts. And my next question, if I go to 33s will I have to get my gears changed?
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Old 03-31-2008, 10:27 PM   #4
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Re-gearing would be a wise choice, but that depends on what ratio you have now. Do you happen to know?

A 1" body lift really isn't that bad... anything higher requires a little more effort to get them to "work" properly. I've suggested to a few others on the board in the past week or so about a Full-Traction 3" lift and 1" body lift for budget lifts. The biggest reason I like the Full-Traction lift is the fact that it comes with a new adjustable front track bar, because when you go to ~3", it's really becomes a necessity.
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Old 04-01-2008, 07:37 AM   #5
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Old 04-01-2008, 11:17 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roybunch View Post
Can anyone recommend a good lift kit?
For the price, the blue light special rough country 4" lift seems to be a deal BUT I advise against it. The overall cost in investing in a 4" lift goes beyond the suspension components. Many times, a SYE and replacement driveshaft is required. A 3" suspension lift will clear 33s. If you are worried, slap on a 1" BL. Hell, if you add a 1"MML you may eliminate the need for a Xfer drop.

But if you are set on a 4". I would go with something that is proven and is totally UPGRADABLE like RE.

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Old 04-01-2008, 02:19 PM   #7
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IMO, if you have the money, Skyjacker is the way to go.
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Old 04-01-2008, 03:37 PM   #8
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i would go with FT and a 1" BL....and maybe you can avoid the sye/cv shaft
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Old 04-01-2008, 03:56 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roybunch View Post
Well I was looking to keep the kit price to 1k or under. I have heard some bad things about body lifts. And my next question, if I go to 33s will I have to get my gears changed?
What is your current ratio? Auto or manual? Usually a change of 1" in a tire size will not necessitate a gear change but moving from 30" to 33" will suck the life out of your Jeep, especially if it's a manual.
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Old 04-01-2008, 05:00 PM   #10
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What is your current ratio? Auto or manual? Usually a change of 1" in a tire size will not necessitate a gear change but moving from 30" to 33" will suck the life out of your Jeep, especially if it's a manual.
Its a manual. I will have to crawl under and see what gears I have. I am not sure yet.
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Old 04-01-2008, 05:52 PM   #11
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Next question. I got this jeep used. According to the specs on the doorjam my rims are 15 x 7. Is that stock for a 2000 TJ sport? I could of sworn they were 15 x 8s. I can't run a 10.5" tire on a 7 can I?

If thats the case, is there good enough reason to go with a wider rim and get 33 x 12.5s?
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Old 04-01-2008, 06:12 PM   #12
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I don't think I'd run a 12.5" wide tire on a 7" rim... but an 8" would be fine. Got a picture of your factory wheels? Some are 15x8, some are 15x7... even if you do have 15x8 wheels, they won't have enough backspacing to prevent rubbing with a 12" wide tire, so new wheels would be needed.
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Old 04-01-2008, 06:22 PM   #13
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I don't think I'd run a 12.5" wide tire on a 7" rim... but an 8" would be fine. Got a picture of your factory wheels? Some are 15x8, some are 15x7... even if you do have 15x8 wheels, they won't have enough backspacing to prevent rubbing with a 12" wide tire, so new wheels would be needed.









Pardon the quality of pictures, they are from my camera phone. I appreciate all the help AZ.
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Old 04-01-2008, 06:31 PM   #14
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Those are "Canyon" wheels, and should be 15x8... although ZJ Grand Cherokee's did have a wheel very similar that was 15x7. There should be some info stamped on the back side of the wheel if you can take one off just to be sure.
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Old 04-01-2008, 07:50 PM   #15
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I reccomend soft 8 Cragars- 15x8 with 4 inch BS... if you like steel
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Old 04-02-2008, 09:46 AM   #16
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if those are the canyon wheels then you can run a 12.50 but you will need wheel spacers
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Old 04-02-2008, 11:23 AM   #17
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I am a novice so if I am asking dump questions please forgive me.

With wheel spacers is there any negative trade offs in using them? Will I have wierd vibrations or handling issues?

I am also still debating the lift, I have tossed around the FL 3" with the BL and maybe the RE 3.5". From what I have gathered on this site the RE is a bit stiff offroad, but good on road. Since this will still be a daily driver I think I am willing to do the trade off.

My next question, is the CYE a must with a RE 3.5 lift?
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Old 04-02-2008, 11:39 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by roybunch View Post
Its a manual. I will have to crawl under and see what gears I have. I am not sure yet.
If you stay with your current ratio, 5th gear will be non-existent with the exception of a downhill run.

If you are planning to off-road often, I recommend a 4.88 ratio. If you a going to spend a majority of the jeep's time on the road with rare to occasional off-roading - a higher 4.56 ratio may suit you better.

While workable, IMO a 4.10 ratio is ok for a few but not for many - unless you have an auto.
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Old 04-02-2008, 11:52 AM   #19
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With wheel spacers is there any negative trade offs in using them? Will I have wierd vibrations or handling issues?
Depending on the spacer, the trade off won't be vibrations - more so in maintenance i.e., checking and validating the torque settings on each spacer. Some spacers like PS, include red loctite so the torque validation may be substantially reduced.

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My next question, is the CYE a must with a RE 3.5 lift?
Not a must, usually a xfercase drop is sufficient to eliminate any vibes gained from a lift greater than 2". Else, you could opt for a MML to shift the angle back to stock.
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Old 04-02-2008, 02:33 PM   #20
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i would definitely go for the SYE with cv driveshaft and rear adjustable uppers.

no problem with wheelspacers...checking them at each tire rotation should be sufficient
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Old 04-02-2008, 10:35 PM   #21
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so if you do a 3'' or 2'' bb kits will i got some vibes or it will be fine am going to run 33s??? am new to the jeep thing lol
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Old 04-02-2008, 11:06 PM   #22
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???
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Old 04-02-2008, 11:19 PM   #23
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Every Jeep is different... some do and some don't get vibes with a 2" BB... thats why most 3" kits come with transfer case skid lowering parts, to re-align the drive shaft angle.
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Old 04-03-2008, 08:02 AM   #24
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so if you do a 3'' or 2'' bb kits will i got some vibes or it will be fine am going to run 33s??? am new to the jeep thing lol
if you have a rubi, like your screenname implies, (and your avatar looks like a rubi i think) then you shouldn't have any vibes with a 2" lift. and i doubt you would get vibes with a 3" lift either. a rubi already has a slip yoke eliminator
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Old 04-03-2008, 09:28 AM   #25
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so if you do a 3'' or 2'' bb kits will i got some vibes or it will be fine am going to run 33s??? am new to the jeep thing lol
and if your kit doesnt come with the tcase lowering stuff. its easy to do with some washers and new bolts. thats what i did with mine, dropped it a little under a half inch. this is the write up i used.

http://www.4x4xplor.com/t-casedrop.html
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Old 04-03-2008, 11:43 AM   #26
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so if you do a 3'' or 2'' bb kits will i got some vibes or it will be fine am going to run 33s??? am new to the jeep thing lol
If you have a Dana44, there is a probability of you getting vibes. If you have the Dana35, a 2" lift should not net any vibes. Of course I am the exception, I got slight vibrations around 35-45 mph with a 2" lift on my Dana35. 4 washers eliminated the vibes.
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Old 04-03-2008, 11:55 AM   #27
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Agreed, that is what I have on my rig. But she is soon to have front and rear D44's and a 241 transfer case...oh, yeah!!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by mrbigjeep View Post
i would go with FT and a 1" BL....and maybe you can avoid the sye/cv shaft
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Old 04-03-2008, 12:03 PM   #28
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Ok, I just got the build sheet back on my TJ.

Dana 30/186MM Front Axle
3.73 Axle Ratio
Dana M35/194MM Rear Axle
30X9.50R15LTB Wrangler OWL A/T Tires
15X8.0 "CANYON" Aluminum Wheels

I bought the jeep used and now its got 215/75/r15's on it. So apparently they downsized the tires before they sold it.

Based on this information, I am guessing I will definately need to regear to get good gas milage and performance?

Besides looks, if this is a DD and the occasional offroad, can I hold off on the SYE kit and just drop the case until I am ready to throw some more money at my jeep?
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Old 04-03-2008, 01:24 PM   #29
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Ok, I just got the build sheet back on my TJ.

Dana 30/186MM Front Axle
3.73 Axle Ratio
Dana M35/194MM Rear Axle
30X9.50R15LTB Wrangler OWL A/T Tires
15X8.0 "CANYON" Aluminum Wheels

I bought the jeep used and now its got 215/75/r15's on it. So apparently they downsized the tires before they sold it.

Based on this information, I am guessing I will definately need to regear to get good gas milage and performance?

Besides looks, if this is a DD and the occasional offroad, can I hold off on the SYE kit and just drop the case until I am ready to throw some more money at my jeep?
With just 2 to 3 inches of lift a tcase drop should take care of you until your ready for further mods
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Old 04-03-2008, 01:35 PM   #30
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as far as regearing, with 33s you will need to regear to keep any sort of performance in your jeep. As they said above, a 4.56 or 4.88 gear ratio would probably do you best.

And with the sye i would say, install you lift and see how it goes. You might not have any vibration issues at all. And if you do, drop your t-case some and see how it goes. Every jeep seems to be a little different and have different manners with ~3" of lift.

good luck and tell us how it goes

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