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Old 08-03-2011, 08:29 AM   #1
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Looking to swap rear dana 35 for 44 help!!!

decided to swap out the dreaded dana 35 in the rear for a 44 i plan on refurbishing i am kinda new at this so be kind i am looking for the most compatible for my 2000 tj going to put 4.56 gears in 4.0/5 speed 33 by 12.5 tires 4 inch lift if it helps questions:

which vehicle should i pull it out of?
which spline should i aim for?
brakes?
what is the difference between arb and lockers?

anything else would be helpful

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Old 08-03-2011, 08:31 AM   #2
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and would my front d30 be good enough or should i swap that to

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Old 08-03-2011, 08:47 AM   #3
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If you want a straight bolt on, you are going to need to find a dana 44 axle out of another wrangler. I dont believe there is any difference in spline counts from jeep to jeep, so there isnt much to worry about there. As far as brakes, drums or discs will work either way. You wont notice any difference in braking by going to disc brakes (although some people think you will). The biggest difference is that disc brakes are easier to work on, and will probably be cleaner if you are in the mud and water alot. ARB is a brand of locker. It is air actuated. For lockers you can get air actuated, electronic actuated, cable actuated, or automatic. The difference is how they engage. Your Dana 30 will be ok with that set up. If you want to get something better that is bolt up, go with an XJ front end, HP30.
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Old 08-03-2011, 08:48 AM   #4
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easiest would be to pull from a rubicon or a cherokee sport with a tow package if you can find one with a dana 44. some sports came with d44s if you cn find a yard with one in or somebody selling one that swapped to a 8.8 or d60
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Old 08-03-2011, 08:51 AM   #5
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easiest would be to pull from a rubicon or a cherokee sport with a tow package if you can find one with a dana 44. some sports came with d44s if you cn find a yard with one in or somebody selling one that swapped to a 8.8 or d60
A cherokee 44 isnt gonna bolt up...they are leaf sprung...
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Old 08-03-2011, 09:05 AM   #6
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Go for a Dana 44 taken out of a 1997 to 2006 Wrangler, any of those will bolt right in. All of those will be 30 spline as well. Brake-wise, some will have disk and some will have drum. Braking-wise, rear disk brakes won't help in a noticeable way but they are easier to work on.

Locker-wise, an ARB is an outstanding manual locker that is turned on and off with a switch. It is also known as a selectable... you select whether it's on or off.
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Old 08-03-2011, 10:25 AM   #7
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i appreciate the help does it mater if the front is drum and the back is disk or visa versa and do i need to do anything else to the front d30 besides the gears.... kind of pissed today auto zone sold me the wrong serpentine belt and its shreaded and wraped around my fan yah 2 hours of work for me today
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Old 08-03-2011, 10:27 AM   #8
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Your front brakes are disk, it doesn't matter if the rear axle has drum or disk... it connects up to the rear brake line just fine and no mods need to be done to the braking system whether the rears are drum or disk.
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Old 08-03-2011, 10:30 AM   #9
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last question jerry promise do i need to upgrade my d30 front at all besides gears to make it more durable
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Old 08-03-2011, 11:23 AM   #10
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With 33" tires, it's fine as is even with a locker.
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Old 08-03-2011, 11:45 AM   #11
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Could take a cherokee d44 and modify it and weld perches for the shocks and coil set up. Probly easiest to by a rear set up from a company that builds it anyway you spec and bolt right in
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Old 08-03-2011, 11:52 AM   #12
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Could take a cherokee d44 and modify it and weld perches for the shocks and coil set up. Probly easiest to by a rear set up from a company that builds it anyway you spec and bolt right in
If you are gonna waste the time to fab a cherokee axle, why not go with something stronger like the 8.8...? A way stronger set up if you are gonna hassle with fabbing up your own axle. Plus the 8.8 is probably cheaper and easier to find in a junkyard.
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Old 08-03-2011, 12:50 PM   #13
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8.8s are becoming increasingly more difficult to find, the mustang and bronco ppl both find and hoard them. at least around here they bring big money if for sale even, none in the pic and pull yards
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Old 08-03-2011, 01:23 PM   #14
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8.8s are becoming increasingly more difficult to find, the mustang and bronco ppl both find and hoard them. at least around here they bring big money if for sale even, none in the pic and pull yards
It's opposite here. I can find at least 20 in a 100 mile radius. The place I bought mine had 4 pulled and palletized ready for pick up. Cost me 100 dollars.
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Old 08-03-2011, 03:37 PM   #15
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With 33" tires, it's fine as is even with a locker.
Guess what? I'm asking your advice for a change instead of argueing, lol

I've got the factory Dana 30 lp in my TJ right now, it's geared to 4.88:1 right now, as high as it can go from what I've been told. What's the better value? If I can get a Dana 44 front off of craigslist and build it, a Dana 30 hp and build it, or stick with the axle and gears I already have and swap out the knuckles for something with more options than the factory knuckles, Ie: High steer, locking hubs etc... to be ran with nothing larger than 35x12.50r15 tires.

Thanks!
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Old 08-03-2011, 07:52 PM   #16
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last question jerry promise do i need to upgrade my d30 front at all besides gears to make it more durable
I'm not Jerry, but you get my 2c anyway: you might wish to truss it to stiffen things up a bit. They're not the stiffest axles in stock form, honestly.
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Old 08-03-2011, 07:59 PM   #17
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I've got the factory Dana 30 lp in my TJ right now, it's geared to 4.88:1 right now, as high as it can go from what I've been told. What's the better value? If I can get a Dana 44 front off of craigslist and build it, a Dana 30 hp and build it, or stick with the axle and gears I already have and swap out the knuckles for something with more options than the factory knuckles, Ie: High steer, locking hubs etc... to be ran with nothing larger than 35x12.50r15 tires.
For 35" tires, your present D30 is fine. At the most for 35" tires I'd install alloy 27 spline axle shafts from Superior Axle. If you just want to change the axle no matter what, I'd go for a HP D30 out of a Cherokee which will give you stronger R&P gears. I wouldn't waste my $$$ on a D44 up front, a TJ Rubicon D44 is no stronger where it counts than the D30 is. I'm running a Rubi front D44 and I'm under no illusions it's stronger than a D30 where it counts.

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I'm not Jerry, but you get my 2c anyway: you might wish to truss it to stiffen things up a bit. They're not the stiffest axles in stock form, honestly.
For 33" tires, it's more than adequate and for 35" tires, it's adequate. Mine has been run locked, alloy axle shafts, 35" tires, CTM u-joints, etc. and the axle housing itself has been fine. I see no real benefit to running a trussed D30 since the housing already holds up to 35" tires for 99% of us. The parts on a D30 (ball joints etc.) that fail due to big tires, lockers, etc. aren't helped by trussing the axle housing. Not to mention, again, that the OP is only running 33" tires.
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Old 08-03-2011, 08:20 PM   #18
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For 35" tires, your present D30 is fine. At the most for 35" tires I'd install alloy 27 spline axle shafts from Superior Axle. If you just want to change the axle no matter what, I'd go for a HP D30 out of a Cherokee which will give you stronger R&P gears. I wouldn't waste my $$$ on a D44 up front, a TJ Rubicon D44 is no stronger where it counts than the D30 is. I'm running a Rubi front D44 and I'm under no illusions it's stronger than a D30 where it counts.
Thanks for the advice! I've got all kinds of Ideas for building a Jeep, but I think I want to keep the build I've got now centered around 35's and make it perform as well as possible with what I've got. I plan on doing a more extreem build, but I think it will be more cost effective to buy a whole different Jeep to build from scratch, and wheel the one I've got built for now while I build the other one... does that sound like a good idea?
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Old 08-04-2011, 05:37 AM   #19
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Thanks for the advice I just got a great deal on a 44 200 bucks came off a rubi now time to switch the stock gears for the 4.56 need to save for lockers now
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Old 08-04-2011, 07:14 AM   #20
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that is a good deal. wish i could find a d44 front for that price out of a rubi, rather than play with an hp30 and the pick and pull
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Old 08-04-2011, 07:40 AM   #21
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that is a good deal. wish i could find a d44 front for that price out of a rubi, rather than play with an hp30 and the pick and pull
I am pretty sure the OP is talkin rear axle, besides the rubi front dana 44 isnt much better than the jeep's dana 30. If you are gonna upgrade to something bolt in you are doing ok with the hp30. The stock 30 is plenty though for up to 35s. The hp30 is just a little stronger. Plus it gets your DS up and out of the way a little more.
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Old 08-04-2011, 10:02 AM   #22
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Jerry B... You really need to do a site like Stu has. Will make it much more easier for new owners/upgraders, such as myself although I have owned mine since new and am slowly adding to it, to access your knowledge without having to search through miles of threads! Although I know it would take massive amounts of time I think it could be very beneficial.
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Old 08-04-2011, 10:08 AM   #23
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Jerry B... You really need to do a site like Stu has. Will make it much more easier for new owners/upgraders, such as myself although I have owned mine since new and am slowly adding to it, to access your knowledge without having to search through miles of threads! Although I know it would take massive amounts of time I think it could be very beneficial.
That would be pretty awesome. I love stus site...one like Jerrys would be just as beneficial, if not more.
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Old 08-05-2011, 01:46 PM   #24
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quick question a 2005 rubi dana 44 will fit my 2000 tj?
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Old 08-05-2011, 01:55 PM   #25
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quick question a 2005 rubi dana 44 will fit my 2000 tj?
Yes. Should have factory air lockers, I would try to get the pump as well.
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Old 08-05-2011, 02:00 PM   #26
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will it bolt straight up to my tj without any fab work is my question
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Old 08-05-2011, 02:04 PM   #27
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Yes.
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Old 08-05-2011, 02:09 PM   #28
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thanks
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Old 08-05-2011, 07:53 PM   #29
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Be sure to only use a Rubicon air compressor if you install a Rubicon axle and locker. The Rubicon's locker only runs on 4-5 psi and a standard compressor will blow it out.

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