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Old 12-18-2011, 12:32 PM   #1
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Lost power after doing a 4 inch lift

Got a 4.0 5 speed stock gears with 31x10's did a 4 inch lift about 3 months ago. The 31's have were on the jeep before the lift. I did a alignment right after to get rid of the the death wobble. Its got the transfercase drop down kit. When i go on the highway im fighting to maintain 65mph. She accelerate ok on side roads. Say im doing 55 mph and try to speed up to 65. Its like a slug and it was not like that before the lift. When maintaining 55 its ok but when i speed up I get a vibratation but when i get up to 65 and maintain that speed it goes away.matter if im in 3 4 or 5th gear. Doesnt Anyone else have this problem? Before i spend money on doing a tuneup i figured id ask.

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Old 12-18-2011, 12:54 PM   #2
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A lift won't cause that. You probably have something else going' on, or it's all in your head.

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Old 12-18-2011, 12:56 PM   #3
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aerodynamics...with that big of a lift a lot more air flow is going underneath the jeep especially 55-65
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Old 12-18-2011, 02:31 PM   #4
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Its normal, i have mine on a 4" lift with 33's... worse aerodynamics + bigger wheels/tires = slower...
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Old 12-18-2011, 03:11 PM   #5
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What model do you have?
Since you only have a TC drop with a 4" spring lift it completely screws up the driveshaft angles and will drive like crap (vibrations) and will not be as purky as it was. You need a SYE, CV driveshaft, and adjustable upper rear control arms.
As far as doing a tune-up, how long has it been since you changed the plugs?
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Old 12-18-2011, 04:56 PM   #6
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97 TJ sport 4.0 5 manual. Not sure the last time it got a tune up I have owned it for 9 months. I checked the plugs a few months ago and they looked fairly new. But may start with a complete tune up. It just doesnt have any of the pep it use to have.
As for after the liftt really feeling the loss and vib I cant do the SYE, Cv shaft and adjustable uppers at this time aka moneys tight. If i could only do one of the 3 which would you do first
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Old 12-18-2011, 06:14 PM   #7
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SYE and Cv shaft go together. The adjustable links will take care of the pinon angle problem and probably the vibrations will go away. If you can swing it do both front and rear, if not just the rear links.

Good luck.
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Old 12-18-2011, 06:45 PM   #8
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It should be against the law for companies to sell a spring lift kit over 3" without selling a SYE/CV shaft with the kit. I bought a 3" spring kit from a company that claims you can install a motor mount lift (MML) and not have to do the TC drop to not have any vibrations. This is BS.

I have learned alot from reading the forums, but fell for this sales pitch.
I'm also having to save for the SYE/CV shaft and control arms.
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Old 12-18-2011, 06:54 PM   #9
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A suspension lift does two things that you have experienced... a 4" tall lift will (!) cause drivetrain vibrations that if not corrected, will start taking out things like seals, u-joints, and/or bearings. To get rid of that type of vibration, a SYE kit and CV driveshaft plus adjustable length upper control arms are needed to do it right.

So far as your loss of power goes, your Jeep is now sitting higher up in the windstream which means greater wind resistance that your engine has to work against. Regearing your axles will restore power but only regear once you have installed the size tires you planned on installing after completing your 4" suspension lift installation. For 33" tires, 4.56 is appropriate for your axles. For 35" tires, for which I would also recommend a 1" body lift, 4.88 is appropriate.
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Old 12-18-2011, 07:54 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by cuder View Post
---I bought a 3" spring kit from a company that claims you can install a motor mount lift (MML) and not have to do the TC drop to not have any vibrations. This is BS.
They may have misled their customer base, I agree. In reality... they are correct... there is no different ( in angles ) between a 1" MML and 1" T-case drop. If you have vibrations with a t-case drop.. you will have them with a MML.

The only difference is how the angle is obtained... MML lifts the front... TCD lowers the rear... either way... the same effect is achieved.
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Old 12-18-2011, 08:01 PM   #11
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How can you tell if you have the vibrations from a four inch lift? I have a four inch lift and it arms to drive fine for me. Also how can I tell if it has a tc drop?
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Old 12-18-2011, 08:01 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by TnDz TJ View Post
They may have misled their customer base, I agree. In reality... they are correct... there is no different ( in angles ) between a 1" MML and 1" T-case drop. If you have vibrations with a t-case drop.. you will have them with a MML.

The only difference is how the angle is obtained... MML lifts the front... TCD lowers the rear... either way... the same effect is achieved.
But, if your t-case drop DOES take care of all vibes (that I know of), shouldn't I be able to put in a MML and then take out the t-case drop and still not have any vibes?
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Old 12-18-2011, 08:11 PM   #13
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A 1" t-case drop has slightly more effect on the rear driveshaf'ts u-joint angle than a 1" MML does. If a 1" t-case drop barely eliminated vibrations, a 1" MML would not.
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Old 12-18-2011, 08:13 PM   #14
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A 1" t-case drop has slightly more effect on the rear driveshaf'ts u-joint angle than a 1" MML does. If a 1" t-case drop barely eliminated vibrations, a 1" MML would not.
So if I put a 1" MML and then found out I still had vibes, I could just put washers in place of the t-case pucks until the vibes were gone, correct?
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Old 12-18-2011, 08:15 PM   #15
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So if I put a 1" MML and then found out I still had vibes, I could just put washers in place of the t-case pucks until the vibes were gone, correct?
That's a good way of handling it, the two are additive in terms of their effect on the angle.
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Old 12-18-2011, 08:19 PM   #16
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That's a good way of handling it, the two are additive in terms of their effect on the angle.
Okay thanks for the help!
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Old 12-18-2011, 09:02 PM   #17
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I installed a 1" MML with a 3" spring lift. I had to also use the 3/4" TC drop and a few washers to get rid of most of the vibrations. I'm not going any lower. This is why I'm going to get a SYE, because I don't want a TC drop.

I have read from alot of people that installed a SYE that after they did it is when they realized how much vibrations they had.
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Old 12-18-2011, 09:18 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by da5speed View Post
As for after the liftt really feeling the loss and vib I cant do the SYE, Cv shaft and adjustable uppers at this time aka moneys tight. If i could only do one of the 3 which would you do first
All three need to be done together, and should have been done at the same time as the lift.

This issue crops up with some regularity on this forum and to a lesser extent on other forums, and I know I'll probably get slapped (again) for coming out and saying it, but if someone can't afford to finish the job of lifting their Jeep correctly, odds are they had no business starting the project in the first place.
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Old 12-19-2011, 12:23 PM   #19
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just did a tune up the cap was shot but like i thought it didnt cure the vibration problems. So I guess i should have read up on the lift and doing the SYE and CV shaft. I was looking around pricing this morning and came across a rugged ridge kit with both the SYE and CV shaft for a reasonable price. Anyone recommended using or not using the RR parts? is there a advantage to using another brand. Heres the kit i just found.
YJ TJ XJ 231 Slip Yoke Eliminator SYE KIT CV DRIVESHAFT | eBay
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Old 12-19-2011, 02:03 PM   #20
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All three need to be done together, and should have been done at the same time as the lift.

This issue crops up with some regularity on this forum and to a lesser extent on other forums, and I know I'll probably get slapped (again) for coming out and saying it, but if someone can't afford to finish the job of lifting their Jeep correctly, odds are they had no business starting the project in the first place.
Not directed at the OP, but I think the problem is that the people have $1,500 to burn or available on a Credit Card...they see a fancy 4" lift kit online (or in a catalog) for $1,499 and order it.

They Get it, install it...doesn't drive right, jump online to trouble shoot, come here, look for options to resolve. Realize they need about $1000 more stuff to do it right.
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Old 12-19-2011, 02:08 PM   #21
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All three need to be done together, and should have been done at the same time as the lift.

This issue crops up with some regularity on this forum and to a lesser extent on other forums, and I know I'll probably get slapped (again) for coming out and saying it, but if someone can't afford to finish the job of lifting their Jeep correctly, odds are they had no business starting the project in the first place.
x2
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Old 12-19-2011, 02:14 PM   #22
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For all above mentioned reasons I stayed at 2.5". Added the 1.25" BL to run 33" tires. I had the TC drop. No Vibes. Removed it, No vibes. Added the BL and MML to eventually install the engine skid plate I was looking at. Still no Vibes. Had to put the skid on the backburner when I decided to regear to 4.56.
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Old 12-20-2011, 12:16 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by da5speed View Post
just did a tune up the cap was shot but like i thought it didnt cure the vibration problems. So I guess i should have read up on the lift and doing the SYE and CV shaft. I was looking around pricing this morning and came across a rugged ridge kit with both the SYE and CV shaft for a reasonable price. Anyone recommended using or not using the RR parts? is there a advantage to using another brand. Heres the kit i just found.
YJ TJ XJ 231 Slip Yoke Eliminator SYE KIT CV DRIVESHAFT | eBay

Look at Tom Wood's Custom Drive Shafts - Tom Woods Custom Drive Shafts Custom Driveshafts Specialist They have the SYE kit on sale for $500 till the end of the year.

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