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Old 02-18-2012, 09:49 PM   #1
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LOW lift with 33x12.50's

Well.. I'm about set to order my lift and tires. I have an 04 X with 4.0 5spd and unknown gearing.

I DD with it to work (3mi round trip) and don't do any offroading. About the most offroad it will see is a dirt farm road or oil rig road and that's pushing it. I don't ever plan on disco'ing or anything. Call me the epitome of the "Mall Crawler"

That being said, I'm wanting some 15x8 steelies with 33x12.50 Duratracs. I want the smallest and most cost effective lift as needed. I had even entertained the idea of a 1.25 BL and flat fenders or cut stockers.

I've seen guys on here with 2-2.5" various lifts and 33's so I know it's possible. Does anyone know for certain if the RC 2.5" lift will require rear TB bracket or a Xcase drop? How about adj cams for the front LCAs?

Thanks for the info! Great place 'round here! Any other ideas for me aside from the OME'ers??

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Old 02-18-2012, 10:16 PM   #2
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My sister has a 05' Rocky Mountain with 12.50x15...33'' Duratrac's ....she has a 2" BDS spring lift...same as you for driving except she does take her's to the dunes in northern MI. It's closer than I like for body clearance though. She doesn't have any TC drop and DDrives it in the summer.

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Old 02-18-2012, 10:19 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by I-Want-A-Jeep View Post
I want the smallest and most cost effective lift as needed.
33's are fit in two common ways on TJ's:

1. 4" suspension lift, with 2" bumpstop extensions in front and 2-2.5" in the rear. Requires a SYE/CV shaft.
2. 2.5" suspension lift, with a 1.25" body lift, with 1-1.25" bumpstop extensions in front and 1.25-1.5" in the rear. The 1.25" BL usually accompanies a 1" Motor Mount Lift to offset some of the driveline angles.

Either way you go, figure on some or many of the following components: longer front brake lines, extended sway bar links front and rear, gears, brake and steering upgrades to accommodate larger tires, SYE, CV shaft, bumpstop extensions, new shocks, adjustable track bars, and a rear track bar bracket.
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Old 02-18-2012, 10:41 PM   #4
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Not sure what kind of budget your working with or how much time you are willing to invest, but have you thought about a highline fender kit? I am working on a DIY version myself, I have a seperate thread about it.

You could do a highline kit and not need to do any suspension modifications of any sort. I chose to go this route because of the chain reaction that occurs once you get into the 2.5" + suspension lift range. I.E. transfer case drop, SYE, change in other suspension components, loss of ride quality... yadda yadda.

AEM makes a kit that does it, and unless someone knows jeeps they would not even realize it is not factory. It costs $2k however, and it still needs to be painted. I am doing mine myself. I am taking it very slow (to make sure its done right the first time and I have ample heated garage space and also other vehicles to drive in the interim) and hope to have it done after maybe 20-30 hours of my own work. I also am doing quite a few other things in the process. For a 33" tire I would think you could probably complete the project in 10-14 hours.

Just some food for thought.
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Old 02-18-2012, 11:51 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by UnlimitedLJ04 View Post
33's are fit in two common ways on TJ's:

1. 4" suspension lift, with 2" bumpstop extensions in front and 2-2.5" in the rear. Requires a SYE/CV shaft.
2. 2.5" suspension lift, with a 1.25" body lift, with 1-1.25" bumpstop extensions in front and 1.25-1.5" in the rear. The 1.25" BL usually accompanies a 1" Motor Mount Lift to offset some of the driveline angles.

Either way you go, figure on some or many of the following components: longer front brake lines, extended sway bar links front and rear, gears, brake and steering upgrades to accommodate larger tires, SYE, CV shaft, bumpstop extensions, new shocks, adjustable track bars, and a rear track bar bracket.

Yes, I know these are the most common ways. I've seen you post this same message in 6 other threads. Thing is, I'm curious about the UNCOMMON ways. Highline fenders like netlohcs mentioned is a valid suggestion. However I'm looking for cost effectiveness. This is why I inquired about the 2.5" kit needing extras.. I was thinking of 2 or 2.5 susp and trimmed fenders if needed (though unlikely that it will be needed as per my normal usage of the Jeep).

What I'm saying is what is "right" for one person and their Jeep may not be "right" for another person and their Jeep.

Are there other issues aside from clearance if I only do a 2 or 2.5" lift with 33's?
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Old 02-18-2012, 11:58 PM   #6
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From what I've seen/heard, suspension lifts that are under say....3" run into a sort of gray area. Some people say do the SYE/CV shaft, some people say do the t-case drop and you'll be fine. It would seem that without a doubt, the SYE/CV will save your u joints. That said, if you're only looking to run 33s, and your going to stay on pavement, the t case drop is probably going to be fine. Seems like most people claim that with small lifts like that, the t case drop eliminates any vibrations.

But...if you're going to stay on pavement all the time, clearance isn't going to be a big issue. So why the suspension lift? Seems like an inch or so body lift and some flat or cut fenders and you probably can fit the 33s. Little bumpstop change and some backspacing and I don't see the issue. Articulation on pavement isn't a problem.
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Old 02-18-2012, 11:59 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by I-Want-A-Jeep View Post
Yes, I know these are the most common ways. I've seen you post this same message in 6 other threads. Thing is, I'm curious about the UNCOMMON ways. Highline fenders like netlohcs mentioned is a valid suggestion. However I'm looking for cost effectiveness. This is why I inquired about the 2.5" kit needing extras.. I was thinking of 2 or 2.5 susp and trimmed fenders if needed (though unlikely that it will be needed as per my normal usage of the Jeep).

What I'm saying is what is "right" for one person and their Jeep may not be "right" for another person and their Jeep.

Are there other issues aside from clearance if I only do a 2 or 2.5" lift with 33's?
if your never gonna off road it and just wanna fit 33s then get a budget boost, 2" spacers that go on top of your stock coils then get some nice shocks for a 2" lift...itll clear um and it will still keep a stock-like ride or better depending on the shocks, stay awake from the Rough Country 2.5" lift..its garbage, ask me how i know...especially if you never wheel it and daily drive it alot then you want something that rides nice and smooth...get the 2" spacers which you could prob find in the for sale section actually..doesnt matter what brand, they're all the same...shocks go with Old Man Emu, Rancho 9000s or Bilstein 5100s...for a 2" spacer lift you MIGHT need to drop the transfer case skid plate just a tad, a few washers should do it...at most youll need a rear trac bar relocation bracket, most places sell um for like 25 bucks...also make sure to get a new speedometer gear..quadratec has them for 30 bucks but you will need to know what your gearing is..look on the rear axle there should be metal oval shaped tag and the first 3 numbers are you gear ratio...your 04 X 5 speed is prob 3.73s
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Old 02-19-2012, 12:12 AM   #8
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I did a 2.25" Skyjacker BBL it came with the longer Hydro shocks for $229. check out my profile for all that I did.

Last night I was checking out the BDS site, they have springs that are 2" over stock for $224 (all 4 springs), their suspensions are very good. I have a 2000 tj and my stock springs have sagged 1" in front and almost 2" in the rear, so my BBL isn't as effective as it should be.

When I'm able, I'm going to get BDS or OME 2" springs, and just keep my Hydro shocks since they're good for up to a 3" lift. if you do the research you can piece together a good lift for a little less coin.
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Old 02-19-2012, 12:24 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by I-Want-A-Jeep

Yes, I know these are the most common ways. I've seen you post this same message in 6 other threads. Thing is, I'm curious about the UNCOMMON ways. Highline fenders like netlohcs mentioned is a valid suggestion. However I'm looking for cost effectiveness. This is why I inquired about the 2.5" kit needing extras.. I was thinking of 2 or 2.5 susp and trimmed fenders if needed (though unlikely that it will be needed as per my normal usage of the Jeep).

What I'm saying is what is "right" for one person and their Jeep may not be "right" for another person and their Jeep.

Are there other issues aside from clearance if I only do a 2 or 2.5" lift with 33's?
Trim the rear with a saw, and buy another companies front hi-line (not metalcloak) and youll be set with 33"s.

You wont have to do anything but spend $650 for the hiline and youll be able to run those 33"s. And if anything you can get a 1.25" BL.

Of course a regear is pretty important for DD driveability.
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Old 02-19-2012, 02:30 AM   #10
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For cost effectiveness without losing a ton of flex by adding bumpstop extensions out the ass to prevent the tires from eating your fenders when you end up driving over the wrong terrain with your setup:

Do a small lift (2" lift would probably work fine) and install MCE flat fenders...or if you don't want to cut your stock fenders up, spend a little more and buy Metal Cloak arched/overline fenders which replace the fenders entirely. With the Metal Cloaks, you may not need any lift at all for 33's...with the MCE, I think I remember them recommending a small lift if you want to get full suspension travel and not have any rubbing issues. I wouldn't cheap out too much...but seems like LCG would be perfect for you (and cheaper to do). This will also allow your Jeep to remain almost fully functional off-road if you decide on a whim to go hit some trails or whatever. Best of both worlds setup honestly...imo.

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Old 02-19-2012, 08:15 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by I-Want-A-Jeep View Post
Yes, I know these are the most common ways. I've seen you post this same message in 6 other threads.
only 6?

Quote:
Originally Posted by I-Want-A-Jeep View Post
Thing is, I'm curious about the UNCOMMON ways. Highline fenders like netlohcs mentioned is a valid suggestion. However I'm looking for cost effectiveness.
DIY highline fenders cost about $15 in hardware. However, you'll see the smart folks that run highline fenders also run a lift. the purpose of the lift has less to do with tires and more to do with improving suspension travel.

Quote:
Originally Posted by I-Want-A-Jeep View Post
This is why I inquired about the 2.5" kit needing extras.. I was thinking of 2 or 2.5 susp and trimmed fenders if needed (though unlikely that it will be needed as per my normal usage of the Jeep).
you can trim all you want. i've know of a rig that ran 2" of lift with 37s with amazing suspension travel. he didn't just trim the fenders a bit.

the front had custom highline fenders and entire rear fenderwells of the tub were cut out, then new fenderwells fabricated to increase clearance. both front and rear had over 3" more tire clearance than stock. it was no hack job, was done very professionally and finished by a body mechanic.

Quote:
Originally Posted by I-Want-A-Jeep View Post
What I'm saying is what is "right" for one person and their Jeep may not be "right" for another person and their Jeep.

Are there other issues aside from clearance if I only do a 2 or 2.5" lift with 33's?
with 2.5" of lift, see my above post, which you've already read 6 times. classically, 2.5" SL + 1.25" BL IS the uncommon way. 4" of lift is far more common.

alternatively, you could bumpstop out all the uptravel gain of a 2" lift from your suspension, trim the flares a bit, and slap on some 33s. but the whole point of a lift is to improve the suspension travel....if you bumpstop out all the gain just to fit larger tires, you have improved nothing.
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Old 02-19-2012, 08:27 AM   #12
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I spent $550 for a 4inch skyjacker kit at summit racing. I did it myself and its my daily driver. 26 miles each way. Bad on gas but love the look and rides like a dump truck unless I've got 4 people in it then it rides like a Cadillac. Lol but it was a pretty easy install with directions on how to do it. You have a place with the tools you can do it in a weekend but MUST GET A FRONT END ALIGNMENT. I also spent $150 for dual steering stabalizer shocks in the front. And didn't have to mess with body lift. Looks awesome. Glad I went with the 4"
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Old 02-19-2012, 08:51 AM   #13
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For your goal, I'd buy a 2" budget boost and put 2" bump stop extensions on. It should cost around a couple hundred max. Keep the stock shocks. If you have a decent set of tools, you can do the DIY fender lifts. I have the rears done and one of the fronts. Its a lot of work, but it's free. I gained 2.75" in the back and 3.5" in the front so you could run 35s on the stock suspension with the stock bump stops.
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Old 02-19-2012, 09:38 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by UnlimitedLJ04 View Post
only 6?


DIY highline fenders cost about $15 in hardware. However, you'll see the smart folks that run highline fenders also run a lift. the purpose of the lift has less to do with tires and more to do with improving suspension travel.


you can trim all you want. i've know of a rig that ran 2" of lift with 37s with amazing suspension travel. he didn't just trim the fenders a bit.

the front had custom highline fenders and entire rear fenderwells of the tub were cut out, then new fenderwells fabricated to increase clearance. both front and rear had over 3" more tire clearance than stock. it was no hack job, was done very professionally and finished by a body mechanic.


with 2.5" of lift, see my above post, which you've already read 6 times. classically, 2.5" SL + 1.25" BL IS the uncommon way. 4" of lift is far more common.

alternatively, you could bumpstop out all the uptravel gain of a 2" lift from your suspension, trim the flares a bit, and slap on some 33s. but the whole point of a lift is to improve the suspension travel....if you bumpstop out all the gain just to fit larger tires, you have improved nothing.
Like I said, what's right for one isn't right for another. I don't want lift for the extra suspension travel, I want to just fit 33's..
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Old 02-19-2012, 09:43 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by I-Want-A-Jeep

Like I said, what's right for one isn't right for another. I don't want lift for the extra suspension travel, I want to just fit 33's..
Check out the flat fenders from metal cloak.
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Old 02-19-2012, 10:07 AM   #16
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Metal cloaks look sweet.. a bit hefty on the price tag though!
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Old 02-19-2012, 04:27 PM   #17
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But you can fit 35s with no lift
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Old 02-19-2012, 06:02 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by I-Want-A-Jeep View Post
I don't want lift for the extra suspension travel, I want to just fit 33's..
so slap em on and hope for the best.

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But you can fit 35s with no lift
Metalcloak with 35" and no lift will rub badly - JeepForum.com
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Old 02-19-2012, 09:51 PM   #19
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x2 on the link. I find it hilarious when people blurp out nonsensible internet jargon without research.
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Old 02-20-2012, 09:54 AM   #20
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I run 33" tires on steelies with no lift and I off road in the mountains of MT all the time. If you aren't going to off road at all, just get the 33's with wheels that have correct backspacing so they don't rub when you turn too sharp. Slow down over speed bumps and you'll be just fine. Cheapest way to go.

Won't be able to use the hitch though if you have one because then you'll rub in the rear. don't know if that's a problem for you or not.
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Old 02-20-2012, 03:50 PM   #21
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That being said, I'm wanting some 15x8 steelies with 33x12.50 Duratracs. I want the smallest and most cost effective lift as needed. I had even entertained the idea of a 1.25 BL and flat fenders or cut stockers.

My plans are similar to what you want to do, but I will be off roading mine. I want to fit 33x10.50 on black steelies with 3.75" BS, (10.50 would be easier to fit in my case, and probably yours than the wider 12.50 tire) Here's the idea: 1.25" body lift 1" motor mount lift - I will replace the stock springs with my old stock LJ springs that have hardly any miles on them and put a 3/4" spacer on top of the front springs - probably replace the worn out shocks with Bilsteins for 0" lift - MCE flat fenders in front and lose the flares and possibly the inner well in the rear and trim if needed - bumpstop as needed. Done. No SYE...no suspension lift. Total cost around $800+ not including the tires and wheels.

I have asked many people who I believe know Wranglers pretty well and nobody has told me it won't work. I realize it won't be a flex monster, that's ok. If I did 31s it would have more room but like you I want 33s. I wanted to do something different and if I end up not liking it I could throw on a 2.5" lift, SYE/CV, and probably fit 35s....but I doubt I'll ever do that.

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