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Old 03-07-2013, 06:40 AM   #31
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I picked up my diff cover at a local drive line shop for 5 bucks. I cleaned it up and got it painted. This is how it compares to the chrome cover.

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Now my limiting factor is the shocks for which it 2 1/2" bump stop extension is required.

Now that I have my up travel figured out I need to correct an issue with my droop. I have the stock brake hoses and they're too short to allow full droop. So after reading another thread in this forum I decided to use Chevy truck hoses.

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Old 03-07-2013, 07:23 AM   #32
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Man I had a heck of a time finding this link sometimes the search function on this site needs a lot to be desired. Anyway this is where I got the idea for the Chevy brake hoses.
http://www.wranglerforum.com/f5/back...ap-222209.html
I ended up getting mine at Napa for 97 Chevy 1 half ton 2 wheel drive. They were 13 bucks a piece.

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Old 03-07-2013, 07:45 AM   #33
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Sorry about all the posts sometimes when I correct my spelling I hit send on this app.
Anyway here's the part numbers.

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These are 21.5 inches long and stock are 16 inches. I won't go into too much detail as you can just click on that thread and follow his. I did use a left and a right because they mounted up better. I also had to grind a small amount from the banjo on both hoses. There's a lip on the caliper and the banjo wouldn't quite fit square. It did not affect the sealing suface at all.


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Thanks to KingKongfu for his right up.
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Old 03-07-2013, 08:16 AM   #34
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Great info. Moving along pretty good.
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Old 03-07-2013, 06:28 PM   #35
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You building that thing for BUNDY or the BADLANDS??? its gonna walk through Bundy!!
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Old 03-13-2013, 07:39 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jp2611 View Post
You building that thing for BUNDY or the BADLANDS??? its gonna walk through Bundy!!
Little of both actually I want to take a trip out to Moab in a couple years.

I got kinda held up on the front suspension because 1 of my shocks did not come with the hardware. So I moved on to the next area the tummy tuck.
First I removed my old crappy mechanical linkage.


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Then I installed the Novak shifter following this write up. http://stu-offroad.com/engine/novak/novak-1.htm
Every thing went great except removing the tcase nuts that hold the stock bracket on. The lower one is a really tight fit. I could not get a ratchet and universal to work so I used boxed end wrench. I could only get a 1/16 turn so I kept having to flip the wrench over. The top one is not nearly as bad just drop transfer case down and you can get to it with a ratchet. The Novak bracket leaves plenty of room to reinstall. For the money this is a great upgrade. I have a transfer case tucked up pretty high and still shifts smooth as butter.

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Old 03-14-2013, 07:31 AM   #37
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With the shifter installed I started on the tcase mount and skid. I struggled with the low pro mount. First I have a 98 and the instructions on UCFs website is for 03-06. The late model (lm) has a different trans bracket and mounts on the opposite side (bushing on driver side) than early model (em 97-02) something I did not know until I called Matt at UCF.
I had to cut my exhaust out of the way because it hung down too low for the skid and the catalytic converter was in the way of the bushing on the low pro mount. I then removed my transmission bracket and clearanced it for the mount. Then disassembled and painted.
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Old 03-14-2013, 08:36 AM   #38
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Man this app is frustrating at times. Here's the picture that didn't load.

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Now I installed the bracket, the mount, and skid plate to the underside of my Jeep. When I snugged everything up I found the mount was a quarter inch from sitting flat. One of the bracket bolts was hitting on the skid plate so I drilled a hole to clear that. Rechecked and mount still wasn't flat. Now I am almost touching the rib on trans to the skid in front. So I disassembled and found that the trans bracket was sitting on stiffener running across the skid that the mount bolts to.

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You can see where the paint has rubbed off. By this time it has been a couple hours I'm pretty frustrated So I took my stock mount and bolted it on there just for s**** and grins. as I slowly raised up the skid plate I watched the clearance between the tub and tcase. When the skid is tight I still have 1/2" clearance around the tcase. Man does that belly look good!

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Of course I ran into another issue. I finally received my shock hardware and was flexing the suspension to full doop and the front DS hit the skid.

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To fix this I can either deepen the notch in skid where the drive shaft is, or redrill the skid plate mounting holes and slide the skid back an inch or so. I have plenty of room to go back on the mount bolt slots as these are bottomed in the forward position. I haven't decided which way I'm going to go.
For me at least it hasn't exactly been the bolt in deal I thought it would be. That being said I love the way the skid looks. I won't be using the low pro mount. Hopefully I can sell it and recoup some cash. It will probably work for someone else's application just not mine. I should also get less vibes with the stock mount anyway.
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Old 03-14-2013, 09:11 AM   #39
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Yea it does look great tucked up in there. Nice work agian. Ur a busy man.
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Old 03-14-2013, 01:51 PM   #40
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I'm interested in the mount, PM me
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Old 03-14-2013, 03:16 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MarkNog View Post
I'm interested in the mount, PM me
Here you go.

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Old 03-17-2013, 07:49 AM   #42
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I pulled the skid plate of once again to clearance for the front drive shaft. I did a combination of enlarging the notch in front of the skid and elongating the mounting holes to push a skid plate for the back.

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While the skid was off I drained my transmission fluid and replaced with redline mt-90. I filled my transfer case with Valvoline ATF plus 4. I also installed a stock replacement transmission mount because mine was torn. I then installed my skid plate for the final time and check my clearances. All is good. Now I can bleed my front brakes and start putting my front suspension back together.
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Old 03-23-2013, 09:10 PM   #43
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I didn't end up selling the Lowpro mount, more on that later.
I got the front brakes bled and reinstalled the springs. Then I installed the upper and lower rear control arms.

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I like the way these work so well that I ordered upper lower front control arms, antirock front sway bar, Currie rear track bar with bracket, and axle housing Johnny joint kit.
Now that my rear control arms were in I set my pinion angle close and measured for my drive shaft. It measured 19 3/4". I had my local drive line shop fab it up. It took two days to make and then I could set my pinion angle.


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Transfer case is 2 degrees
Drive shaft and pinion are 25 degrees
Total driveshaft angle is 23 degrees
This is about as much as you want to run. So then I slowly drooped my axle while rotating the drive shaft. Unfortunately the double cardan joint bound before I hit full droop. Now I have to lessen the angle. I will have to use the Lowpro mount to drop 3/4" in transfer case height and increase transfer case angle. That means I will have to modify the ultra high skid plate. I will probably have to slide the whole skid back 1" and re-drill holes for frame mounting. This is so I don't have any metal to metal contact between the lowpro mount and the skid.
If this doesn't reduce my angle enough I will probably have to go with a BL and MML. If I do have to go this route I would like to install a Savvy BL but they always seem to be on backorder. I'm open to suggestions on are the best BL and MML.
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Old 03-24-2013, 09:21 PM   #44
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I spent 4 hours today modifying the skid plate and finally got the lowpro mount installed. I think I ended up with as much aluminum on my garage floor as I installed on my Jeep. Lol. I did have to drill all frame mounting holes 1 inch forward to move the skid 1 inch back.
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Old 03-24-2013, 09:33 PM   #45
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I bookmarked your thread for future reference. How easy was it to install the Novak shifter cable? Iv'e heard mixed reviews from some people saying it's the best money they ever spent to some others saying it's horrible and they could make their own for cheap.

Another question I have, did you test the shifter already? Does it shift smoother than goose sh!t on a glass table? I put a transfer case linkage drop bracket on my stock linkage and I almost pulled my arm out of my shoulder socket trying to engage the darn thing in 4wd

I'm planning on ordering the shifter cable tomorrow.
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Old 03-24-2013, 09:37 PM   #46
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Here some other places I had to clearance the skid.
Front drive shaft.

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Front edge to clear transmission.

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Transmission mount bracket bolts.

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I also ground the heads of these bolts down to help clear. It did help the front ones.

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If you look on the mounting rib you can see black paint on the left side. This is where the transmission mount bracket was hitting and why I had to move the skid back 1 inch.

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I had another forum member ask me if I thought maybe I got the wrong skid for my 98 TJ. I told him this was written on the top side.

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After all that this is what the Lowpro mount looks like installed.

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Old 03-24-2013, 09:45 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rolly32 View Post
I bookmarked your thread for future reference. How easy was it to install the Novak shifter cable? Iv'e heard mixed reviews from some people saying it's the best money they ever spent to some others saying it's horrible and they could make their own for cheap.

Another question I have, did you test the shifter already? Does it shift smoother than goose sh!t on a glass table? I put a transfer case linkage drop bracket on my stock linkage and I almost pulled my arm out of my shoulder socket trying to engage the darn thing in 4wd

I'm planning on ordering the shifter cable tomorrow.
I love the Novak shifter. I have moved my transfer case up and down many times and haven't had to adjust anything. The hard part of the install is getting the transfer case bracket bolts out. Other than that its a piece a cake. It shifts smooth as silk, I'm extremely pleased with it.
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Old 03-24-2013, 09:54 PM   #48
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When I finished with the lowpro mount I readjusted my pinion angle. I set my pinion so it is 1/2° less than my drive shaft.

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I then cycled my rear axle up and down to check for drive shaft binding. All is good.
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Old 03-24-2013, 09:57 PM   #49
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I also picked up the first part for phase two, my 8.8 :P

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Old 03-24-2013, 10:15 PM   #50
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Lookin' good! Sucks you had to chop up an expensive skid to get it to work. I've been reading some other reports about bolt holes not even lining up from UCF.
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Old 04-08-2013, 08:30 AM   #51
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It's been a little while since I've updated. Wifey and I took the motorhome down to Tybee Island GA for a much needed two week vacation.
When we returned I had several boxes waiting for me labeled Savvy Off-road.

My front CAs, JJ housing kit, and anti-rock. Rear new bend TB with angled bracket, shock relocation brackets, and Bilstein 5100 shocks.
Also received my AtoZ spare heavy duty spare tire swing kit.
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Old 04-08-2013, 10:01 AM   #52
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Upon returning from vacation it is time to get back to work.
First thing I did was to finalize my pinion angle and tighten my CAs. With my uppers disconnected from the axle and a bottle jack under the pinion, I torqued the mounting bolts on the lowers to specs. I then squared the axle measuring from axle to LCA brackets on the front side and an existing frame hole on the back side. I adjusted LCAs until axle was square with measurements matching on both sides and tightened the jam nuts. Then I measured again just to make sure, dead on.
With the lowers set, I used the jack to move the pinion inline with the DS. Using an angle finder on the DS and machined surface on rear of pumpkin, slowly adjusted the jack until both numbers met at 22.5°.


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I feel confident setting DS and PA the same as I expect almost no deflection from the new JJs.
Now with the axle positioned, I adjusted my UCAs until I could insert the axle side bolts making sure the bolts spin freely. Torqued all four mouting bolts to spec and tightened jam nuts. I measured everything again, axle square and PA 22.5°.


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My angles at ride height are:
Tcase 4°
DS and PA 22.5°
DC joint 22.5°- 4°=18.5°
You may note that the tires are not on but the jeep is level with jackststands under both axles.
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Old 04-08-2013, 02:34 PM   #53
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I just got my shifter cable in, but I did have 1 question, once I install it, how do I adjust it? Do I only adjust Side A? or is it both?



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Old 04-08-2013, 03:52 PM   #54
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Quote:
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I just got my shifter cable in, but I did have 1 question, once I install it, how do I adjust it? Do I only adjust Side A? or is it both?
Set the B side so it has no tension with the shifter in 2 high. Tighten the jam nuts.
Make sure the tcase is in 2 high (lever in forward position) and adjust A so cable can connect to selector with no tension. Tighten jam nuts. Easily move shifter though modes. When back to 2 high make sure there is not tension on cable. If so readjust and recycle. Remember nothing is turning so gotta go easy so gears can mesh.
Good link.
http://stu-offroad.com/engine/novak/novak-1.htm
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Old 04-15-2013, 09:02 AM   #55
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I have made good progress since my last update, even had a test drive!
Before that I had to install my Currie rear TB and angled bracket. I removed my old TB and relocation bracket to reveal stock mount.

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Then tapped my new bracket in place. I have the new style which requires light welding on the axle tube.

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I attached using the existing tb hole and supplied hardware. Then drilled the two side and one top holes also securing with supplied hardware. Note: these can be difficult to drill with the spring in place. I used an air drill because it was shorter than my cordless. Also lifted up spring with compressors and positioned axle with a bottle jack.

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With the bolts completed it's time to weld. I moved my brake line as far as I could and wrapped it in aluminum tape, not duct tape. Laid down my welds and painted.

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Next I clamped a length of straight angle iron to the frame on each side. I plumbed them using my degree finder and washers as shims. Measuring from the backing plates to the angle iron I centered the axle. With a strap holding center, I adjusted and installed the TB.

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I had cut the exhaust off just after the down pipe crossed the oil pan and turns rearward. I didn't want to do a hack job so I took her to a shop and had a custom exhaust made using a Thrush turbo muffler. $300 and it looks great and sounds perfect. A little rumble outside and almost inaudible inside.
While she was on all fours I snuck a couple pics.


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She has 20.5" of clearance at the belly.
I'm getting real excited now.
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Old 04-15-2013, 02:23 PM   #56
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As I stated earlier, with the new exhaust on, I just couldn't resist a teaser drive.
I forgot to mention that I did a quick toe alignment usin Jerry Brandford's method. http://www.wranglerforum.com/f5/basi...ent-86996.html
I'm going to save most of my impressions for when all parts are installed and adjusted. However I will say I noticed a little drive line vibration through the seat. Upon my return I measured my pinion angle again and my PA was 1° higher than my DS. You may recall both were 23°. Everything was tight so maybe things needed to settle in. I reset PA to 21.5 and DS to 22.5 and test drove. Vibes are gone drives smooth as silk.

Upon returning home I started on the JJ front housing kit. The driver side requires removal of the stock rubber bushing. If you have never removed a Clevite bushing your not missing anything. What a PITA. The Currie instructions say to remove the upper arm and drive it out with a bfh. Bounce bounce and no movement. I used a hole saw to remove the rubber center (what a mess, when hot the rubber turns to glue) then made relief cuts in the bushings outer housing with a saws all

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being carefull not to cut the axle housing. Then using a large punch I collapsed the housing inward. The JJ went in easily, though I did have to remove the driver side spring to swing the hammer and drive it in.
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Old 04-15-2013, 06:01 PM   #57
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Wow!!!!!
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Old 04-15-2013, 06:59 PM   #58
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Woah, looking like a sweet rig! Love that belly clearance, no more shovel!
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Old 04-15-2013, 07:13 PM   #59
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Looking good. If you wheel hard, you might want to look into the reinforcement bracket from Currie or another vendor. With the added height of the TB bracket, the reinforcement bracket will reduce the likelihood of the entire bracket being ripped from the axle. The Currie is welded to the axle but there are others that use the diff cover bolts.
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Old 04-15-2013, 08:32 PM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shark_13 View Post
Woah, looking like a sweet rig! Love that belly clearance, no more shovel!
Thanks. Nice to hear that, it's been a lot of work.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BLK00TJ View Post
Looking good. If you wheel hard, you might want to look into the reinforcement bracket from Currie or another vendor. With the added height of the TB bracket, the reinforcement bracket will reduce the likelihood of the entire bracket being ripped from the axle. The Currie is welded to the axle but there are others that use the diff cover bolts.
Good advice. I'm hoping to have my 8.8 ready by July and address it then. I think I have another problem though, I'm LOVIN that gas tank skid! Is that the Savvy unit? Do you have a body lift? That looks sweet.

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