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Old 10-29-2013, 01:27 PM   #91
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Quote:
Originally Posted by All Terrain TJ View Post
Quoted from Ready Brute's FAQ page.

The Ready Brake pulls hard enough on the brake pedal to over-come the vacuum booster not being powered up. We have been making this system since may of 1997 and have sold thousands of them trust us when we say the Ready Brake will work perfectly fine with the power booster not being powered up. All cars sold have a power booster now days it is not be an issue.
Frequently Asked Questions - NSA RV Products

When I was initially adjusting my setup it was a bit to tight, stood my Jeep on its nose. Before towing I pump the brake pedal to bleed off the residual vacuum, otherwise the brakes are to touchy the first couple stops.
Now I'm curious if Water Dog uses an auxiliary vac pump.
I'm pretty sure he doesn't.... Wow, nice write up, I'm fired up now. I'll have to order some parts.

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Old 10-30-2013, 06:45 AM   #92
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I'm pretty sure he doesn't.... Wow, nice write up, I'm fired up now. I'll have to order some parts.
Thanks, I've been meaning to ask you about that.
Here's the rest of the front bumper pics. Btw I incorrectly posted earlier in this thread that the rear bumper was 3/16" wall. Both bumpers are 1/4" wall and the swing-out frame is 3/16" wall. I tried to edit but the moment had past.
Front bumper with mounts and grinding done, ready for paint.

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After two coats of self etching primer and three of Rustoleum bed liner I installed it.

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Looks much slimmer and cleaner than this.

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I also add two extra mounts at the bottom that bolt to tabs welded to the round crossmember.

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These are to help distribute the stress while being toad. The bumper is attached using 8 1/2" bolts, 6 into the frame and 2 in the crossmember.
I have toad the Jeep approximately 700mi with the new bumper and it works great. The towbar is completely level and brake cables perfectly inline.
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Old 10-30-2013, 07:03 AM   #93
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I have a new garage mod that is going to make future Jeep mods much easier, an Atlas 9000lbs two post auto hoist. Purchased from Greg Smith Equipment in Indianapolis, cost $2200 shipped. The crate weighted 1600lbs, since I have no means to unload a semi at home, I picked it up at the trucking terminal.
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Old 10-30-2013, 07:28 AM   #94
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It took me 2hrs to unload it myself, that bi!˘h is heavy. I had to use a come-along and a fair bit of ingenuity.
My son and his buddy helped me assemble it, took 8hrs or so including wiring. I have already used it several times for different vehicles and it is AWESOME!

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Also works great for removing or installing tubs.

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I am also building a fixture to allow me t use it to remove and install engines. We are installing a long block in my son's '00 TJ. That will be documented in his build thread (linked restoration in my sig) but I will post a pic of the engine being pulled here.
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Old 10-30-2013, 08:14 AM   #95
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Most useful mod ever!
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Old 11-26-2013, 05:32 AM   #96
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As mentioned above this is the fixture we fabbed up to pull engines using the hoist.

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I welded the critical parts and let my son practice on the other welds. He's getting pretty good. That's his '00 TJ we are installing the new long block into. His old engine decided to put the #1 connecting rod though the block and oil pan. We documented the swap in his build thread that is linked "restoration" in my sig.
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Old 11-26-2013, 08:37 AM   #97
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Recently I had to remove my passenger side front brake caliper to replace a broken lug stud. Unfortunately when I removed the upper caliper bolt the threads came with it. This was on a Tuesday and and I had a wheelin trip planned on Friday. I knew mrblaine (black magic brakes) has a fix kit for this, unfortunately it wouldn't make it from California to Michigan in time. With some frantic Googling I was able to find a write up for the repair. All of the credit for the design of this repair goes to mrblaine.
I went to Fastenal and purchased two EZLOK M8-1.25 theaded inserts pn 650-8 for $2.90 ea. Also purchased two M8- 1.25x70mm bolts and one M8-1.25 nut.
Using a 27/64 bit I drilled out the caliper hole as straight as possible.

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I then tapped the hole 1/2-13 using no lubricant.

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With the hole prepped I threaded the insert on the new bolt using the nut as a stop. Then applied a few drops of red locktite.

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As you can see the insert is externally threaded 1/2"-13. From the back side, I theraded the insert into the modified caliper hole until the nut bottomed against the knuckle. This ensures the insert is flush. It was left overnight to cure the locktite.
The next day after removing the nut I had a much more durable mounting point.

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Installed the caliper and torqued to the FSM specified 11ftlbs (132 inlbs).

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Quick tip: I you are going to repair one hole, repair both. As I was installing the caliper the bottom hole stripped out so I had to repeat the process. Good thing I bought two inserts as it took a day to ship.
When I build my hp30 I will either insert those knuckles or more likely reuse these.
Out of respect for mrblaine I would not have posted this information if he hadn't already on Jeeps Unlimited. That is where I found the info for this repair.
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Old 11-26-2013, 08:49 AM   #98
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Pics didn't post, imagine that.

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Old 03-25-2014, 09:53 AM   #99
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Been quite a while since I've updated this so it will take a couple posts to bring current.
I scrapped the idea of using on 8.8 and sold the axle. Instead I bought an XJ D44 for $200. Also picked up an XJ HP30 complete for $100. So my future axles are ready to be built. Unfortunately with my daughter's wedding and son's graduation they will have to wait until next winter. More to follow.
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Old 03-25-2014, 12:59 PM   #100
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Some of the mods I've done over the winter.

Moved the upper rear coil mounts. Went from this

To this

Unfortunately I didn't get a pic with the spring after the move. Next time I remove the tire I'll get one.
I also installed a JKS 1.25" body lift. This is to make clearance for the 35s and an upcoming Brown Dog 1.5" MML.

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