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Old 06-25-2012, 10:14 PM   #1
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Me & My Dad Want a TJ

We want a weekend street/medium 4 wheeling/tough looking TJ. Any suggestings to guide us on our search?

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Old 06-25-2012, 10:22 PM   #2
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BTW we are new to this forum. we are also thinking about a CJ but like a newer, more available Jeep. Easy button we call it.

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Old 06-25-2012, 10:29 PM   #3
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97-99 TJ sport with a Dana 44 is my suggestion. You get the 4.0,the D44 and a couple extras. I suggest these years because they seem to have the least engine "problems". I am sure there will be others with different suggestions!!! Good luck with your choice!
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Old 06-25-2012, 11:14 PM   #4
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welcome! My opinion, buy a 6 cylinder 4.0 engine. Yeah 4 cyl is a beast but the 6 is faster and I've found that most people like it much better. Next, get a stock one cause building it is all part of the fun and you don't have to deal with someone else's crap job. Next, make sure the previous owner NEVER took it offroad. Not a necessity but it's really reassuring knowing no one else beat hard on your jeep. Lastly inspect it very well for rust. My dad and I got lucky buying ours, we didn't know to check for rust or anything really. Climb under it, check for rust on the frame, check for rust on the tub (under and above), pull up the carpet and inspect the inside of the tub, pop the hood and look at that stuff. Check for any leaky parts (axles or otherwise), the usual with cars I guess. Try driving the stock jeep offroad first (if you take it out) to get used to what stocks can do. Ours is still stock but I've added a winch, bumpers, and skids. It goes far man, it's surprising. Build it right the first time you'll be happy forever good luck and have fun!
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Old 06-26-2012, 10:17 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by lwszabo View Post
97-99 TJ sport with a Dana 44 is my suggestion. You get the 4.0,the D44 and a couple extras. I suggest these years because they seem to have the least engine "problems".
X2 on all that, especially on the Dana 44 which is an upgraded and much stronger rear axle that replaces the weaker standard Dana 35c rear axle. I'd trade my present '04 TJ for my previous '97 TJ which was a lot simpler to work on, that is for sure. Also stay with the six cylinder 4.0L engine over the 2.5L four-cylinder which doesn't really get better mpg since you have to drive the 2.5L engine so much more aggressively to stay up with traffic.

Incidentally, if you want to start doing harder offroad trails as most offroaders end up wanting to do, and want to run bigger tires like 33" or even 35", you'll kick yourself if you don't hold out for a TJ with the stronger/optional factory installed Dana 44 rear axle. Replacing the standard Dana 35c with a Dana 44 later from somewhere else is a LOT more expensive than just holding out for a TJ that has one already.
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Old 06-26-2012, 01:35 PM   #6
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Like everyone has said. Stick with the inline 6, 4.0L, engine. The gas mileage between the 4 cylinder and the 6 are the same as it has been said. Please listen about the dana 44 option in the rear. I am having a hard time finding a local dana 44 that does not cost an arm and a leg. Then to set it up the way I want it will cost another $1500 after I buy the axle.
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Old 06-26-2012, 02:22 PM   #7
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I'll disagree on the mileage part. Yeah I would love to have the 4.0 instead of my 2.5, but NO ONE I know with the 4.0 gets within 5mpg of mine. 25% mpg difference is huge to me. Yeah like Jerry said, to keep up with traffic you would have to push the 2.5 hard. But to me, keeping up with interstate traffic isn't important. I cruise about 60 on the interstate and get 19mpg. If I were to try to cruise at 70mph+, I'm sure I would probably drop to 15mpg or so. That is still better than the 12-14 MAX that EVERYONE I PERSONALLY know that drives a 4.0 gets. Mine is a DD, the 2.5 does everything I ask of it and is just as fun as the 4.0 offroad.
All of that said, I would like to have a 4.0 Jeep at some point, but I just do not agree with those who post that the mpg is basically the same as the 2.5. I KNOW BETTER!
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Old 06-26-2012, 02:26 PM   #8
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LJ with Rubicon package is nice.
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Old 06-26-2012, 02:27 PM   #9
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And with my 2.5 I run 32-11.50s with a mildly agressive mud tread on them. I would say with stockers on, I would be around 21+ mpg.
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Old 11-30-2012, 09:05 PM   #10
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Bringing this one back. I like the 94-95 YJ for it's improvements vs. earlier years. They run between $4-5K. That leaves me with about $4k of "toy" money left from the race car I wrecked back in May.

I'm looking at a near by possibility tomorrow morning. It would need a lift kit and from Rough County they seem cheap at <$500. A bikini top is $80. I'll wait on bumpers because they are $$$.

Anytime I see an example for sale of what my finished project would be, the owner is very proud of it as reflected in the price. We want something to build as our own like we did with the race car.

Should we wait for a deal or pick up a clean low mileage unit we can build on?
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Old 11-30-2012, 09:11 PM   #11
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I'll disagree on the mileage part. Yeah I would love to have the 4.0 instead of my 2.5, but NO ONE I know with the 4.0 gets within 5mpg of mine. 25% mpg difference is huge to me. Yeah like Jerry said, to keep up with traffic you would have to push the 2.5 hard. But to me, keeping up with interstate traffic isn't important. I cruise about 60 on the interstate and get 19mpg. If I were to try to cruise at 70mph+, I'm sure I would probably drop to 15mpg or so. That is still better than the 12-14 MAX that EVERYONE I PERSONALLY know that drives a 4.0 gets. Mine is a DD, the 2.5 does everything I ask of it and is just as fun as the 4.0 offroad.
All of that said, I would like to have a 4.0 Jeep at some point, but I just do not agree with those who post that the mpg is basically the same as the 2.5. I KNOW BETTER!
I get 16+ in town, and 18.5-19 on the highway with my 4.0L
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Old 11-30-2012, 09:33 PM   #12
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Bringing this one back. I like the 94-95 YJ for it's improvements vs. earlier years. They run between $4-5K. That leaves me with about $4k of "toy" money left from the race car I wrecked back in May.

I'm looking at a near by possibility tomorrow morning. It would need a lift kit and from Rough County they seem cheap at <$500. A bikini top is $80. I'll wait on bumpers because they are $$$.

Anytime I see an example for sale of what my finished project would be, the owner is very proud of it as reflected in the price. We want something to build as our own like we did with the race car.

Should we wait for a deal or pick up a clean low mileage unit we can build on?
YJ's are great...but TJ's are a much better ride. Coils are cool!
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Old 11-30-2012, 09:39 PM   #13
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if you want to build it up either a tj or yj will be great. yjs suspension is easier to work on being as its leaf springs vs coils but the tj will ride smoother.ive owned both, and like the ride of my tj much better.
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Old 11-30-2012, 10:02 PM   #14
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Get a YJ!
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Old 11-30-2012, 10:04 PM   #15
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You can buy this one. PM me if interested. 2001 60th anniversary edition. Sweet jeep, just have to sell it
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Old 11-30-2012, 10:44 PM   #16
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love the YJ's, but TJ's are a nicer ride & top is easier to take down.

D44 comments are definitely something to listen to. i found one locally for my last jeep, but it needed some rebuilding. after i sold that TJ, i ended up selling the D44 to a guy that drove 8 hours one way to get it. he said my asking price & driving to get it was still cheaper than buying it locally to him.
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Old 12-01-2012, 08:18 AM   #17
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love the YJ's, but TJ's are a nicer ride & top is easier to take down.

We all know we like it, when the top comes down easier.
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Old 12-01-2012, 09:03 AM   #18
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Old 12-01-2012, 11:20 AM   #19
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We all know we like it, when the top comes down easier.
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Old 12-03-2012, 09:58 PM   #20
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I'm checking out a 91 YJ tomorrow and he has already replaced the windshield and frame due to rust a couple of years ago. There is a small thru hole due to rust in the drivers floor well. I've built race cars and know my way around drilling out spot welds and welding back in new panels and using seal sealer.

What other areas may have hidden rust that I need to look at more closely? Are there any "boxed in" sections that are prone to hidden rust?

It also has a newer (<15k mi) engine, trans, rear end, gas tank and top. It has less that 125k miles on everything else.

Should I look elsewhere?
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Old 12-04-2012, 12:13 AM   #21
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Make sure you look the frame over very closely. I looked at 8 or 9 and all but the one I bought had badly rusted frames.

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