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Old 03-03-2013, 10:20 AM   #1
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Mopar Hypoid gear lubricant?

What is a good alternative to this? I am going to change my differential fluid on Tuesday, but don't know what Hypoid gear lubricant is...

Also, I am looking at the FSM for my 2000 TJ se, it doesn't say how much is needed, just to fill to the fill plug. Anybody know how much is needed to fill both the d30 and d35?

Thanks for the help!

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Old 03-03-2013, 01:25 PM   #2
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Any insights?

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Old 03-03-2013, 01:43 PM   #3
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Hypoid is the type of gear your differential is. Any gear oil will do. If you have a limited slip look for gear oil with the LS additive in it, most have it.

I recommend regular dino oil. For the d30 and d35 3 quarts should be perfect, IIRC.
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Old 03-03-2013, 02:48 PM   #4
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A hypoid gear lube is nothing but a normal/common GL-5 gear lube. I too recommend a conventional (non-synthetic) gear lube in axles and you'll need just under 4 quarts for both axles. If you don't tow, anything like an 80W-90 or 75W-90 is fine. If you tow or do strenuous offroad trails, use a slightly heavier viscosity like 85W-120 etc. The exact viscosity of gear lube is not critical, just make sure it is a GL-5 gear lube.
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Old 03-05-2013, 09:20 PM   #5
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Thanks for the info. Hoes another question; I have read writeups where people have used break cleaner to clean out the inside, spraying on the gears. That to me doesn't sound right.

Is it safe to do? I was thinking of getting the cheapest engine oil and spraying that on the gears to clean them a little. Is that a safer alternative, or is either way fine?
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Old 03-05-2013, 09:30 PM   #6
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Brake cleaner will dry and leave no residue. (if it's good for brake rotors...right?)
I use non chlorinated stuff for work and it seems to get everything clean quickly. I used same for doing my diffs.
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Old 03-05-2013, 09:50 PM   #7
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Use brake cleaner. Like said it is best to use because it evaporates quickly and leaves behind no residue.
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Old 03-06-2013, 12:27 AM   #8
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Surprisingly, brake cleaner does indeed leave a residue behind . Wash one brake rotor with Simple Green and the other with brake cleaner. The one washed with Simple Green will start rusting very quickly while the other rotor cleaned with brake cleaner won't because it leaves a thin petroleum based residue behind.
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Old 03-06-2013, 09:53 AM   #9
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The chemistry is a bit over my head, but based on various MSDSs for brake cleaners, the leading chemicals are acetone and some type of naphtha variant. Naphtha is a highly distilled petroleum product that evaporates relatively quickly and doesn't usually leave a residue (looks to be dependent on quality).

As far as why one rusts and the other doesn't, there could be a multitude of other reasons. There are better tests to determine if brake cleaner leaves a residue. First thing that pops into my mind is Simple Green is concentrated, whenever I use it I dilute it with water. Water obviously promotes rust/flash rusting.

Based on what I've been reading it could also depend on the brand, some using cheaper chemicals than others that might leave residue.
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Old 03-06-2013, 10:02 AM   #10
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Wash the rotors with even diluted Simple Green & dry them thoroughly. You'll still see the fast rusting process afterward. I was shown this several years ago by Blaine Johnson after I made the same comment about brake cleaner not leaving a residue. I saw the rusting process happening remarkably fast on a rotor cleaned with simple green but not the rotor cleaned with brake cleaner with my own eyes while at Blaine's house.

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