Went out playing yesterday - everything went well made it through all obstacles I attempted. I got back to the rig and picked up drivers side wheel with forklift. I cleared 20" before drivers side rear tire lifted off ground. I was nowhere near bump stops, shocks were still extended. I have alot of clearance to flat fender. I am planning on new steering components and "JJ" control arms.
Is something in a bind up front not allowing to flex to its full potential?
My track bar mount limitting flex? I got good advise on a Builders corner thread I have. I want this done right and be able to some extreme wheeling.
Not sure if these measurements will help with advise.
3" body lift
9 1/4" Overall Bump stop length (4 1/2" bump stop extension)
4 1/2" clearance to bump stop pad
3 1/2" of exposed shock for travel.
20" of lift on front tire before rear tire lifts off ground.
8.8" ford rear-end, 4.88 gears, 35" tires.
Looking for advise / suggestions. (I like the 3" body lift)
Possibly 37's in the future. No problem upgrading axles and regearing for bigger tires.
That was the first thing I looked at when I was looking at the pics!
Pull those pins!!
X2... Your sway bar is limiting travel.. Better yet get a Currie Antirock, good street manners and excellent off road. Just get it adjusted to your liking and you never have to mess with it, no more pulling disco pins. You will not be disappointed!
Thats what I have been looking for, Its like getting a new vehicle all over! COULD NOT BE MORE PLEASED. By pulling the pins I went from 20" to 34". Co-worker in picture is 5'8" for reference.
Now my front shocks are completely compressed with an inch or so of room before bump stop makes contact. Longer bump stops needed???
Now to get the rest of equipment up to par, for some serious wheeling.
My shocks are bottoming out prior to bump stops making contact. I have about 1" more of bump stop clearance. Can I reposition my shock mount location or change style of shocks to utilize what movement is still available? There is more than enough clearance between flat fender and tire at current max flex.
First off the 3" BL is a complete fail. Hate to see what happens when the body and tub deside they dont like each other.
Seconf the Currie A-Rock is awesome. I have one. I have ran my rig through the same spot will using disco's and then with an A-rock, boy what a difference there was. With the A-rock there is more stability but it does not limit flex.
YOU ONLY NEED TWO TOOLS IN LIFE - WD-40 AND DUCT TAPE. IF IT DOESN'T MOVE AND SHOULD, USE THE WD-40. IF IT SHOULDN'T MOVE AND DOES, USE THE DUCT TAPE.
IF YOU CAN'T FIX IT WITH A HAMMER, YOU'VE GOT AN ELECTRICAL PROBLEM.
If you plan to be in a lot of off camber situations the body lift isn't ideal. The more the tub sways back and forth over the frame the more issues you're going to have later on down the line.
If you want to run bigger tires go with a 2.5" suspension, 1.25" body lift, and highline the fenders... I think over all you'll be happier with that set-up and won't tweak the long ass bolts that go through the 3" body lift.
If you want more lift I'd go 6" long arm all the way and be done with it.
__________________ "So long as the presence of death lurks with anyone who goes through the simple act of swallowing, I will make mine whiskey." W. C. Fields