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Old 11-29-2008, 12:26 PM   #1
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Muddy Water

As a few of you all already know my transmission is not acting right due to my stupidity.Well I think when and if I have to change it I want to go back with a standard and need to know what I will need AX-5,AX15,3550 and also will I have to find a front console section from the standard as well???I have found a couple AX-15 pretty reasonable but the ax-5 are between $400-$800 I have seen the Ax15 from $100-$500 Also with the standard trans will my T-case bolt up the same or will I have to get trans,t-case and all???I have changed a few over from stick to auto but only one other from auto to stick and it was a Mustang not a Jeep so any help would be appreciated.BTW here is a couple pics of my stupidity!!!
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Old 11-29-2008, 12:40 PM   #2
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AX-5 for the 2.5L four-banger, AX-15 for the 4.0L six. I converted my AX-15 to an automatic earlier this year which wasn't too bad but going the other way, to a 5-speed, would be a pretty major job. Personally, I'd fix or replace your automatic with the same kind of automatic. When it's out, you can tap new vent hole on top and connect a rubber breather hose to prevent it from happening again. You'll need to seal the OE vent hole which is on the front of the transmission by either something like JB weld or have someone who can weld aluminum weld the front vent hole shut.

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Old 11-29-2008, 03:28 PM   #3
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From your cowl it looks like you have a 97 so ya a ax-5 or ax-15
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4.0/np231/ax15/d30/d35
flowmaster40,hpd30 with aussie locker,currie upper joints,4.88's, lca skids,chromo shafts,vanco brakes,d35 with super 35 and arb locker,re 4.5" springs,currie arms,re front uppers,Re shocks in back,walkerevens shocks up front, Re track bars with currie jj joints,anti rock,ss brake lines,re rear sway bar links,jks 1.25" bl and mml,bfg 35x12.5 km2's,craiger soft 8's,ome steering stabilizer,currie hd steering,rockmen front bumper,emp tank skid,lots more too.
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Old 11-29-2008, 06:23 PM   #4
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Yeah it is still going at the moment.Since the filter change then the full flush afterward I have drove it around 200 miles and it still pulls fine with no slippage and shifts fine all but down into first on full stops.I still think it has a chunk or two of mud in the valve body some were and will hopefully come out of it but after 200 miles I am starting to get a little skeptical.I will keep my eyes open for 32rh but if I run into a wrecked standard first I will probably go that route.I know the pedal assembly with the clutch and brake pedal unbolts as a unit and pretty sure the firewall would have the same setup so it would all bolt right in due to DC probably using the same parts between the many types and models of the Wrangler I just don't know about the console yet.I am not sure if the shifter and boot would come up through the same hole the auto shifter sets in.That and i am not sure for the T-case as the one I see for sale usually specifies stick or auto.But more than likely I will either have this one rebuilt or grab a used one from the bone yard!If so I will close off the vent and add the extened vent as Jerry was talking about.I figured since the vents for the axles are up on the core support that the vents for trans and t-case should be up there as well.Yeah it is a 97 4.0
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Old 11-29-2008, 06:27 PM   #5
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Here is another hooking the winch up!!!!Yeah my son has a mohawk collored red.lol Kids these days!!!!
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Old 11-29-2008, 06:40 PM   #6
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The console is the same, I kept mine when I converted from the 5-speed to the 32RH automatic.

I'm not so sure however that your existing t-case will bolt up without problem to a 5-speed tranny due to the longer input shaft the t-case uses for the 32RH. The t-case made for the 32RH has a longer input shaft which not allow the two to bolt up completely. I know the length issue exists, I'm not 100% sure though if it'd prevent them from bolting together but I'd be sweating that if it were me.

I had to install an extended output shaft seal on my new 32RH so it would seal properly over the shorter input shaft on my t-case that was originally built to mate up to the AX-15.
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Old 11-29-2008, 07:27 PM   #7
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Yeah I read some were that the shaft could be shortened to make it work.But that is the main reason I figure the only way I will go with the stick idea is if I can find a wrecked one some were that I could get everything all together.I would still put in new clutch kit,master and slave cylinders but I could get the tranny,t-case pedals and shifter boot from it.I will start my bone yard search in the next few days.Other wise I found the 32rh but shipping will be killer and I would be out a day to go pick it up so I will also look local for the 32!!!
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Old 11-30-2008, 12:10 AM   #8
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the input on a 231 for an automatic is different for autos and manuals.....like stated above the auto has a longer input shaft and you swap out that whol planetary or just find a case with the shorter nput ready to bolt up.......chances are if you find a wrecked jeep with the tranny you want then it will have the tcase you need........not to mention both versions of the tcase are very common to com across.....at least here in columbus they are
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Old 11-30-2008, 12:48 PM   #9
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Hey flattie if you run across a good deal up that way let me know.At this point I would settle for the 32RH for a reasonable price.I found one at Davey's Jeeps but shipping is not cheap and I would have to take a whole day to drive up there and get it.It was a good price but Just do not have the time to do the trip and don't want to pay $200 for the freight shipping.He quoted the 32 for $350 with 84K!!!!The cheapest one I have found local is $600 with 67K???

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