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Old 08-23-2008, 11:09 PM   #1
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my ideas...

so i plan on spending 3,000 on my jeep in the next month or so...im wanting a lift and tires and then whatever else i can get with whats left...

i found a new 4" rough country lift with black steel rims and Mickey Thompson 33x12.50 on ebay for 1400...i dont do alot of extreme off roading ust moderate...i would also like a bumper with a winch but not sure which one to go with. and a rear tire carrier with full spare that willl hold jerry cans..suggestions...

im not looking into body armor at the moment since i cant drive my jeep for two years and my mom wont be taking off road, plus i plan on buying somethign with every paycheck until i leave japan so i can cover all taht small stuff then

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Old 08-23-2008, 11:23 PM   #2
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this is the lift kit

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/97-06...spagenameZWDVW

and im looking at this bumper, its simple and looks good

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/87-06...spagenameZWDVW

but i like this one too because its basically the same but provides alot of front end protection...
http://www.tellico4x4.com/product_in...ducts_id/18755
i would get it with the stinger hoop

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2002 BLACK TJ X EDITION, 31x10.50 bf all terrains, ALL STOCK FOR NOW FROM PUEBLO< COLORADOSTATIONED IN OKINAWA, JAPAN ON CAMP BUTLER/FOSTER...

"THE PRICE OF FREEDOM IS ETERNAL VIGILANCE"

"UNITED STATES MARINE CORPS...GIVING THE ENEMY AN OPPORTUNITY TO DIE FOR THEIR COUNTRY SINCE 1775"
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Old 08-23-2008, 11:49 PM   #3
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im also thinking of the poison customs cage....
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2002 BLACK TJ X EDITION, 31x10.50 bf all terrains, ALL STOCK FOR NOW FROM PUEBLO< COLORADOSTATIONED IN OKINAWA, JAPAN ON CAMP BUTLER/FOSTER...

"THE PRICE OF FREEDOM IS ETERNAL VIGILANCE"

"UNITED STATES MARINE CORPS...GIVING THE ENEMY AN OPPORTUNITY TO DIE FOR THEIR COUNTRY SINCE 1775"
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Old 08-23-2008, 11:52 PM   #4
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Rough Country lifts have a bad rap for sagging... a lot, and quick. I know there is at least one member on here that can voice that till he is blue in the face.

Also... steel wheels exist for one reason. They are CHEAP. Not only in price but in build quality. There are almost never true-to round and are harder to balance.

The only good thing I can say is that those Mickey Thompson tires are nice.
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Old 08-24-2008, 12:48 AM   #5
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I disagree about the steel wheels.

When you whack a rock, steel bends a little - if it bends enough to lose air, you can usually bang it back enough to work. Or, if needed, you can trail weld it.

Aluminum shatters - you aren't trail fixing it. Look along the trails, you'll see pieces of aluminum wheels others used to prove my point.

And - Aluminum is slippery, especially when chromed. Big tires slip on the rims, requiring you to rebalance them all the time - try this, put a mark on the tire next to the stem - go off roading, or even stop hard in the street - yes, a good hard stop will get them to slip - notice your marks are no longer by the stem.
The rumor about gremlins sneaking to your rig at night and moving balance weights around - not true!
Balancing every couple of weeks gets expensive!

And - steel rims are much lighter - lowering unsprung weight, giving a better ride. Just try picking them up!
Try putting an aluminum wheel by itself on a balancer - most need lots of weight to balance it without a tire.

I went that extra yard to stop the slipping - threw away the aluminum junk, used a grinder on new steel rims' beads to scratch them up rough, coated them with Muriatic acid and water to make them rust (rough) for about a month - then mounted the 35 MTR's with bead sealer (a black sticky stuff like rubber cement.) Truck tires often use it.
I also used stick-on weights on BOTH sides - clip on weights get knocked off too easy. Balancing only one side works for a mall crawler for "pretty," but doesn't get the balance right, it'll tend to "wobble."

They still slip occasionally, requiring re-balancing occasionally, but now it's acceptable.

But then, I really USE my Rubi.
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Old 08-24-2008, 01:48 AM   #6
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Quote:
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I disagree about the steel wheels.

When you whack a rock, steel bends a little - if it bends enough to lose air, you can usually bang it back enough to work. Or, if needed, you can trail weld it.

Aluminum shatters - you aren't trail fixing it. Look along the trails, you'll see pieces of aluminum wheels others used to prove my point.

And - Aluminum is slippery, especially when chromed. Big tires slip on the rims, requiring you to rebalance them all the time - try this, put a mark on the tire next to the stem - go off roading, or even stop hard in the street - yes, a good hard stop will get them to slip - notice your marks are no longer by the stem.
The rumor about gremlins sneaking to your rig at night and moving balance weights around - not true!
Balancing every couple of weeks gets expensive!

And - steel rims are much lighter - lowering unsprung weight, giving a better ride. Just try picking them up!
Try putting an aluminum wheel by itself on a balancer - most need lots of weight to balance it without a tire.

I went that extra yard to stop the slipping - threw away the aluminum junk, used a grinder on new steel rims' beads to scratch them up rough, coated them with Muriatic acid and water to make them rust (rough) for about a month - then mounted the 35 MTR's with bead sealer (a black sticky stuff like rubber cement.) Truck tires often use it.
I also used stick-on weights on BOTH sides - clip on weights get knocked off too easy. Balancing only one side works for a mall crawler for "pretty," but doesn't get the balance right, it'll tend to "wobble."

They still slip occasionally, requiring re-balancing occasionally, but now it's acceptable.

But then, I really USE my Rubi.
Pics, please........of you USING your Rubi. You can post them on the TJ Pictures thread.
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Old 08-24-2008, 01:52 AM   #7
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Ok - you are entitled to your own opinions.

But the majority(here and elsewhere) will agree that an aluminum wheel is better all around.
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Old 08-24-2008, 04:38 AM   #8
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im just looking for a moderatly cheap set up that will allow off roading and will look good, im from colorado so i know i will be doing some of the trails their just nothing to major...
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"UNITED STATES MARINE CORPS...GIVING THE ENEMY AN OPPORTUNITY TO DIE FOR THEIR COUNTRY SINCE 1775"
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Old 08-24-2008, 05:10 AM   #9
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I would look at LoD for a tire carrier. I have been running the LoD Xtreme bumper carrier for 2 years with a 35" tire and no problems. The power coating has stayed on, and it does not rattle.

Semper Fi
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Old 08-24-2008, 07:10 AM   #10
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Cave - sure:
An easy trail - you can see the steel wheels.
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Old 08-24-2008, 07:28 AM   #11
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I think some of them have recently slipped a little - tomorrow I'll get a close up pic of the slipped marks.

Here's a trail with a bit more challenge. We had I think 12 rigs on this run, 2 flopped on this little dry waterfall.

Notice the 2nd pic - left front wheel - the side of the tire was used to climb - alloy wheels can't take that kind of sideways force.

Look at pro crawlers - try to find a successful one with alloys.

But - I agree they look better at the mall.

Ever see someone roll because the wheel broke?

But - it's your choice - run whatever you want.
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Old 08-24-2008, 10:38 AM   #12
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rrich......pm sent.
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Old 08-30-2008, 08:49 AM   #13
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thanks for all the input guys, i appreciate it, after all the reviews i hear about rough country i changed my mind i dont wanna put crap on my jeep so instead im going with this kit...

4.5" Rubicon Express Ultimate Superflex Kit for TJ /LJ Wrangler

its the rubicon express (i hear good things about this company) 4.5 inch ultimate super flex, also includes a short shaft kit, a tom woods drive shaft, a daystar 1 in body lift and i mml by MORE, plus 4 35in goodyear MTS, i would rather have the Mickey Thompson Bajas but these will work, and black rock crawler wheels....its a lil more than i originally planned on spendig but i think its a good deal, is their anything else i will need besides shocks and i know i am going to have to upgrade my axles, im thinking super 35 kit and regear, i dotn do any real crazy wheeling just moderate.....
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"THE PRICE OF FREEDOM IS ETERNAL VIGILANCE"

"UNITED STATES MARINE CORPS...GIVING THE ENEMY AN OPPORTUNITY TO DIE FOR THEIR COUNTRY SINCE 1775"
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Old 08-30-2008, 11:18 AM   #14
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Thats a perfect kit for you. Deffinatley a good way to go to get everything in one shot. They will switch the tires up for you too if you just ask them. Give them a call when you go to order it and tell them youd like the claws instead. The super 35 kit is a good way to get the Dana 35 a little stronger. You say you only do moderate wheeling so you should be alright with 35" tires and the locker. You may break a shaft if you are hard on it but I think you'll be alright.
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Old 08-30-2008, 09:26 PM   #15
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i also really wanna do tube fnders, im thinking a DIY kit since my grandpa owns a welding business ill have no problems getting them built, i may as well just fabricate my own bumpers too.
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2002 BLACK TJ X EDITION, 31x10.50 bf all terrains, ALL STOCK FOR NOW FROM PUEBLO< COLORADOSTATIONED IN OKINAWA, JAPAN ON CAMP BUTLER/FOSTER...

"THE PRICE OF FREEDOM IS ETERNAL VIGILANCE"

"UNITED STATES MARINE CORPS...GIVING THE ENEMY AN OPPORTUNITY TO DIE FOR THEIR COUNTRY SINCE 1775"
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Old 08-30-2008, 09:27 PM   #16
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and also i found a super 35 axle kit with a detroit locker just under 900 so thats probably the route iwill go
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"THE PRICE OF FREEDOM IS ETERNAL VIGILANCE"

"UNITED STATES MARINE CORPS...GIVING THE ENEMY AN OPPORTUNITY TO DIE FOR THEIR COUNTRY SINCE 1775"
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Old 08-30-2008, 10:26 PM   #17
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and also i found a super 35 axle kit with a detroit locker just under 900 so thats probably the route iwill go
i think you could do a ford 8.8 for around that much
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Old 08-31-2008, 09:30 AM   #18
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I disagree about the steel wheels.

When you whack a rock, steel bends a little - if it bends enough to lose air, you can usually bang it back enough to work. Or, if needed, you can trail weld it.

Aluminum shatters - you aren't trail fixing it. Look along the trails, you'll see pieces of aluminum wheels others used to prove my point.

And - Aluminum is slippery, especially when chromed. Big tires slip on the rims, requiring you to rebalance them all the time - try this, put a mark on the tire next to the stem - go off roading, or even stop hard in the street - yes, a good hard stop will get them to slip - notice your marks are no longer by the stem.
The rumor about gremlins sneaking to your rig at night and moving balance weights around - not true!
Balancing every couple of weeks gets expensive!

And - steel rims are much lighter - lowering unsprung weight, giving a better ride. Just try picking them up!
Try putting an aluminum wheel by itself on a balancer - most need lots of weight to balance it without a tire.

I went that extra yard to stop the slipping - threw away the aluminum junk, used a grinder on new steel rims' beads to scratch them up rough, coated them with Muriatic acid and water to make them rust (rough) for about a month - then mounted the 35 MTR's with bead sealer (a black sticky stuff like rubber cement.) Truck tires often use it.
I also used stick-on weights on BOTH sides - clip on weights get knocked off too easy. Balancing only one side works for a mall crawler for "pretty," but doesn't get the balance right, it'll tend to "wobble."

They still slip occasionally, requiring re-balancing occasionally, but now it's acceptable.

But then, I really USE my Rubi.


Everything I just read makes me bang my head.
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Old 09-01-2008, 11:09 AM   #19
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i agree i dislike rough country as well but if you have a 4wheel part around your neighborhood they you can talk them down to a resaonible pric and get a lift kit and tire wheel combo for a package deal i think drive out comes out to like 1350 pretty reasonible
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Old 09-02-2008, 04:30 AM   #20
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Good choice - but -

I think you'd be better off with the Long Arm kit (of course still the Rubicon Express.) The Short Arms give a "choppier" ride than the LA's. It's the angle of the arms in front. The Short Arms have a steeper angle of incidence - the angle down.
Off road the shorts have a tendancy to "wheel hop" rather than "ride over" obstacles too.

As an experiment - try pushing a long pole along the ground, like a long broom handle. Then grip it up further to shorten the arm, that shortens the arm and increases the angle pointing down. You can see how the longer the arm the better it rides over things. The shorter grip makes it catch on everything more.

Price isn't much different, but it does take a bit more work installing it. But from what I've seen, it's well worth it.
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Old 09-02-2008, 04:46 AM   #21
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i would love to do a long arm but the price difference is about 900 dollars and im already spending more than i initially planned, plus i need the 900 to redo my axles for the 35 in tires, thanks for the advice though, if i find a better deal on a long arm i may reconsider it...plus i dont really do extreme off roading, at least i hav enot in the past, i dont know if i really need the long arms...
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"THE PRICE OF FREEDOM IS ETERNAL VIGILANCE"

"UNITED STATES MARINE CORPS...GIVING THE ENEMY AN OPPORTUNITY TO DIE FOR THEIR COUNTRY SINCE 1775"
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Old 09-04-2008, 06:11 AM   #22
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what else would i need

so if i bought the RE 4.5 lift that came with the SYE and DS, the BL andMML, and i also bought the super 35 kit with a detroit locker...

what else am i gonna need, im pretty sure i need to regear both front and rear axles to 4.88 to make up for the 35in tires, and the kit does not come with shocks so ill probably wanna buy long travel shocks correct? suggestions on a brand, i do moderate wheeling and it is my DD.

anyone have a suggestions on where to get new gears for a good price, maybe even a dana 30 4.88/locker combo so ill be locked in front and back that is at a reasonable price.

what about a brake upgrade, is this an absolute must have or can i get it down the road.

And is a heavy duty tie rod system a must with the 35's or is that something i can get down the road. I know i originally said i was gonna spend 3,000 but i want to do it right and know im looking at more like 5,000...i figure im in japan for two years might as well make use of the extra money..

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"THE PRICE OF FREEDOM IS ETERNAL VIGILANCE"

"UNITED STATES MARINE CORPS...GIVING THE ENEMY AN OPPORTUNITY TO DIE FOR THEIR COUNTRY SINCE 1775"
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