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Old 10-23-2011, 10:29 AM   #1
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Question My New JEEP!! Need advise

Just purchased a one owner 2000 Sahara 4.0, Auto, 88k miles. I purchased it from my boss for almost nothing knowing that it has an engine issue. It hasn't been driven in over 1.5 years. Here is what I know.

Radiator blew and wifey of previous owner kept driving... Owner took to shop and they replaced radiator. Drove for 150-200 miles and started overheating again. It was a 3rd vehicle so they tucked it away in the garage and never drove it again. Everything else worked with no problem before it was put away and it was never driven off road. It was taking up space in their 3rd garage and they just wanted it gone so I purchased it.

I know it has coolant in the oil, the radiator 3/4 full and is full of rust, the battery is dead. Other than that, I know nothing mechanically other than they promised (with guarantee) that everything else works like new.

I wanted to test it so I drained and replaced all the oil and radiator fluid and cranked it up. It was blowing white steam out the exhaust and the engine was knocking like crazy but eased up the longer it went. After about 5 minutes of idleing it was overheating so I shut it down and let it sit over nignt. Then i drained the oil again and it was full of mixed oil and radiator fluid (aka chocolate shake).

Now I have to pull the head, Should I just buy a new head? or have it checked out and machined? I worry it is a casting number 0331 or whatever one is notorious for cracking since it is in the year models that have this issue. Also, If I have the head off, should I have the lower end checked out as well? What issues could this have caused to the lower?

What does everyone think? I looked on the forum for suggestions about new heads, any suggestions?

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Old 10-23-2011, 10:40 AM   #2
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I would think at this point it is obvious there is more damage was done than meets the eye. Having run the engine with no coolant (no working radiator) for ? who knows how long, they have blown the head gaskets and may have done other internal damage while running it. If you are not up to the task, have the engine checked by a mechanic. Trying to repair it piece meal may cost more than having it done one time correctly.

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Old 10-23-2011, 12:04 PM   #3
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Might be wise, after you take it apart and have it checked.... look into a reman long block... might be the best way to go as the previous post hit on a good point. You have NO IDEA how long it was ran with no coolant. Heat can do some MAJOR damage and likely cannot be seen without a complete dis assembly and inspection of bearings and caps on the bottom end with water in the oil....

Not trying to rain on your parade... just trying to point out the things that might be overlooked and shorten the life even more if you dump money in the top end and never check the bottom end.

Would it not suck if you dumped a pot of money in the top end to have the bottom end go out in a few months? Money wasted right there.... just check it and be safe (and smart) with your money....
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Old 10-23-2011, 01:02 PM   #4
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I agree. There is a shop that quoted me $79 for a "pick and pull." They said after they get done they will be able to tell me exactly what it will need. Then i can figure out what i can do myself.

I also forgot to add, after i ran it the passanger side floorboard was wet?
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Old 10-23-2011, 01:13 PM   #5
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Coolant in the oil probably means the motor is done. Looks like heater coil is done too.

You need to pull the heads and inspect the cylinders.
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Old 10-23-2011, 04:23 PM   #6
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sounds like you have very little to lose by grabbing a remanufactured long block.
its a pretty easy swap, as far as engine swaps go. even easier if you take all
the parts off first
while the engine is out, replace the heater core.

by going this way, you sidestep all the potential problems from this engine,
which could be a ton of issues, easily costing you more than the longblock,
and way more time.
my two cents
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Old 10-23-2011, 07:16 PM   #7
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I would seriously look into a reman long block..... sounds to me by what you are describing and what you have found happening is toast.... done.... boat anchor.... unless you want to spend the time and money to do it up right from the bottom up....

If it were me.... I would do the reman longblock.... my .02
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Old 10-23-2011, 08:18 PM   #8
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Sounds like a blown head gasket and with coolant in the oil you'll need a long block or complete rebuild. Since you got it worth the money you should be in good shape.
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Old 10-24-2011, 05:57 AM   #9
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Sounds like my story. Pull the head off. Take it from there. (and as was said, the heater core probably blew as well because of the excesive pressure in the cooling system).

I got 'lucky', mine only needed a gasket and the head planed.
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Old 10-24-2011, 06:15 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Itsfun00 View Post
I also forgot to add, after i ran it the passanger side floorboard was wet?

If you had the AC on then check this site
AC Condensation Leak
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Old 10-24-2011, 06:44 AM   #11
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It doesn't take long for water in the oil to corrode the bearing surfaces. The only way to know is to pull it apart and visually inspect it. If you're going to do that you might as well rebuild it. I would pull the motor and drop it off at a machine shop for a complete rebuild. While the motor is getting rebuilt, you can tackle the heater core.
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Old 10-24-2011, 01:29 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gixxerphil View Post
If you had the AC on then check this site
AC Condensation Leak
I did and Wow, thats easy. I will do it today!! Thanks
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Old 10-24-2011, 07:07 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bardb View Post
It doesn't take long for water in the oil to corrode the bearing surfaces. The only way to know is to pull it apart and visually inspect it. If you're going to do that you might as well rebuild it. I would pull the motor and drop it off at a machine shop for a complete rebuild. While the motor is getting rebuilt, you can tackle the heater core.
X2
If the the oil was flushed right away maybe it would be worth a top end check, but it sounds like it sat for sometime with antifreeze in the oil.
You got it cheap enough it may be a good time to learn how to rebuild an engine.

Joe
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Old 10-24-2011, 07:11 PM   #14
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I did and Wow, thats easy. I will do it today!! Thanks

Yeah I got quoted almost $900 to "fix" mine from the stealership. Thankfully I was given a link to that site
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Old 10-25-2011, 08:57 PM   #15
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coyoteenginerebuilders.com/Cached quoted me $2600 for a complete overhaul of my engine. They will come get my jeep, tow it to their shop (engine still in it, remove the engine) and do the following-

All cast iron components are magnaflux to guarantee integrity. Engine blocks are precision bored, decked and honed to the specified RMS. Crankshafts are ground and polished to an 8-12 RMS finish. Valve seats are precision cut to three angles, and heads are resurfaced and vacuum tested.
  • New Pistons
  • New Rings
  • New Timing Components
  • New Freeze Plugs
  • New Installer Gasket Set
  • New Main Bearings
  • New Rod Bearings
  • New Cam Bearings
  • New or Reground Cam Shaft
  • New Push Rods
  • New Hydraulic Lifters
  • New Oil Pump
  • Remachined Block, Crank Shaft, Connecting Rods and Cylinder Heads
What do yall think?
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Old 10-27-2011, 06:01 PM   #16
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ive never had anyone do my engine repairs before, but i did go to their website
and check out their warranty. 12 month unlimited miles guarantee is pretty
damn good if you ask me. its more than enough time for anything to go bad
if it was going to.
if you really got an unbelievable deal on the jeep, i would just pay up and let
them at it. they sound pretty decent!
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Old 10-27-2011, 06:18 PM   #17
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Replacing a motor is no big deal. I'd get a long block and swap over your goodies. Going that route you can be confident in the motor. If your radiator is toasted too I have one sitting in my garage that should work for you.

Another option is a V8 swap. LS motors make tons of power & fit nicely in TJs.
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Old 10-27-2011, 06:49 PM   #18
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So now I need two ls1's... Haha

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