2 head gaskets and about 30 hrs later I still have coolant seeping into my oil. The first time I admit I looked at my torque wrench wrong and messed up the torque foot pounds. The second time, with a new fel-pro head gasket I was spot on and still have the same problem. Should I just look for a good used motor and cut my losses? Or is there something I am missing. I had the head resurfaced and magnafluxed. I also had a valve job done. Im never thought this would happen but Im stuck with the JEEP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Did you look at the cylinders when you had the head off? Could be a crack in one of the cylinder walls. Another thing I've found works well, is to use 'copper spray gasket' on the head gasket before assembling. Just stray thoughts.
Not necessarily. I don't know if your motor has sleeves or not, but on a lot of motors you can replace the sleeve (cylinder walls) and not have to replace the block. If you're going to go that deep, you may want to consider either a full rebuild, or a short block since you just had your head gone thru. I'd try one more head gasket with the copper spray gasket first. Double check that the head is flat before you re-install it, and that the top of the block is flat and clean as well.
Thanks for the input. I dont think this motor had sleeves on it. I didnt appear that way to me anyway. Another head gasket with the copper gasket spray? Do you spray the gasket or the surfaces? Also wondering if I should have new head bolts again. I replaced them with the install of the first head gasket....this would be 3 now. The first bolts appeared to be original but I decided for 20 bucks to replace them anyway. How should I go about telling the flatness of the engine block. Use a straight edge? Also how clean should it be. The last 2 times I just used a utility knife blade and scraped off old gasket material left behind. Thanks again....I will beat this thing yet.
He stated in the original thread that he had the head magnafluxed and resurfaced. That would have shown a cracked water port in the head.
Follow the directions on the can for the spray gasket. I spray the gasket both, both sides, and let it tack up before assembly. You need to be careful with the utility knife, you don't want to score the mating surfaces, that will cause problems. Once you get the old gasket off, clean the mating surfaces with a rag and acetone to remove all of the grease/oil residue.
Most head bolts are designed to stretch during the installation, so you'd be better off getting a new set. Especially since you said you misread your torque wrench the first time thru.
You can use a straight edge to check for flatness, check in multiple directions.
I was very carful with the utility knife blade not to gouge the surface. I only used it to scrape the old material off the block surface. Would a Fel-Pro Severe duty gasket be better than the regular gasket? It may have alittle more sealing capabilities than a regular gasket would. It cost more I know that. I guess I can try it again....im getting really good at it I guess. Just worried I am spending money for something that will not fix it. Thanks again for the advice.
Have a close look at the gasket - make sure it matches all the holes in the head AND the block.
There are SEVERAL DIFFERENT gaskets for the 4.0 - found that out when mating a '00 head to a 92.
Some would have done exactly what you are experiencing. One was very close, but one opening was just off enough that it would have mixed water and oil.
Discount parts house's computers only show one for the 4.0. The dealer's computer shows several. It's NOT a case of "one size fits all."
It's no wonder the country is falling apart - stupidity abounds!
Thats an interesting report....I never looked to see if the holes all match. I am sure it would not be as easy as that would it. Im willing to tear into it again just to check though. I will definetly keep you posted on what I find. Would you then suggest getting one from a dealer instead of say Auto Value? Or in your opinion what would be the best head gasket choice to buy.