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Need advice on 33" tires

2K views 16 replies 8 participants last post by  Rpkittle 
#1 ·
Hello all,

(!Notice: I just realized this is a long post!)

I've been doing some homework, and realized that I should probably ask the pros for suggestions.

Here is my specs:
1997 Sport with 4.0L and 5 speed. I believe my current gears are 3.07 in D35C and D30., which i plan to find out for sure today by measuring the rotations of the drive shaft in comparison to the wheel. My current tires are some Generic 31x10.5x15, which only measure 29". Currently all stock suspension at 99,800 miles.

This is my Daily Driver, and would like to make it my weekend warrior. The trails around here can go from Mild to Wild, but I would like to keep it more on the mild side for my tastes. I do not go off roading very much for two reasons, I need to find some jeep buddies to go with, and my lack of a winch with bald tires scare me! I know I can do everything I want pretty much stock with skill and time. But I want to also have the room to easily further my abilities, and also look good doing it to. :)

I am the second owner, so Im not sure if it has ever been regeared. I havent seen any tags on the differentials, and everything is coated with like a rubberized protectant.

So my reason for pursueing new tires in the first place is because my current ones are pretty much bald, all the way down to the wear bars. And on top of that, all 4 of the shocks seem to be leaking, which i assume is the reason to the rough ride over bumps.

So from what I read, its best to do what you want the first time. And I really like the thought of running 33" tires. I believe 35" would run to much money to do things properly. I like my "31" tires, but Id like them to be bigger.

I would like to spend less than $3000 if I can including the tires.

The First thing I look at is my gears. I have read that 4.56 gears is highly recommended for my combination. Well if I only have 3.07 gears, I would either need a bigger carrier in the Dana35c or replace with another axle such as the popular Ford 8.8. If I go with a new carrier, I felt I mine as well go with and LSD over Open w/ lockers. So I quickly added up $$$, which is highly unrecommended to dump into the Dana35c axle. This is what tells me I mine as well do the ford 8.8. I am no fabricater by any means, so I would need to pay someone to do all of the conversion. It seems like either option I go, its going to be roughly $1500 which is half of my budget!

Next I look at is the lift. I know its fit commonly in two ways. I wanted to do a 2" suspension lift with a 1.25" body lift. The body lift will set me up down the road if I ever wanted a tummy tuck or high clearance gas tank skid. To save on some money, i was going to run a budget boost instead of replacing the springs. I have mentioned that I do need new shocks, so why not get the OME 2" lift? The only down side is im afraid to go to high where I need an SYE and DS.

I know I want the Wrangler Duratrac's at 33x12.5x15. I have considered only buying four to drop the cost by $200 or so. MY current rims are Cragar's Nomad II's that came from the previous owner. I believe they have 3.75" of backspacing.

So after all this my eyes are just filling up with $$$. This is my first jeep, and kind of hope its my last. I dont mind putting money into it cause I know I'll want to keep it a very long time. And if anything ever happened, I would do my best to get another TJ to move all my mods over to.

Maybe i should just buy a new set of 31"s and call it a day. idk. :/

So if you guys were in my position, what would you do?
 
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#2 ·
Buy the ome lift or a cheaper (or expensive) 3 inch lift if you have the money. Get 33 inch duratracs. Use your wheels. Get an 8.8 with 4.10s and pull a d30 from a 4 Cyl Tj. Or the cheaper option a d35 with 4.10s if you don't plan to go above 33s or lock the rear. Tads your done. The cheap way is 1500, expensive way is about twice that. Or more.
 
#3 ·
With 33's and a 5 speed, personally I would go with the 4.10s on your budget.

Ford 8.8 with 4.10s - $300 (junkyard)
Dana 30 regear to 4.10 - $200
Artic axle truss with tj mounts - $300
8.8 to 1310 flange adapter - $30
2" springs $200
JKS 1.25" body lift - $100
M.O.R.E MML - $100
Bilstein 5100 shocks - $300

This is $1530, and that leaves you with 1470 for wheels and tires... seems do able.

This is... if you do the work yourself.
 
#4 ·
I just did a test, and can confirm that I have 3.07 gears in my D35 and D30.

I am very mechanically inclined, just never worked with a welder. I might know a few people that would help me with the Ford 8.8.

I hear a lot of people complaining about not being happy with 4.10's with the 5 speed. Could anyone describe what it would be like to drive? Would it be a dog or run at high rpm?

I'm looking around at car-parts.com for an 8.8 with 4.10's near me.

Thanks for the advice!

And if I'm not mistaken, I thought M.O.R.E was the only company that made an axle truss that didnt require trimming, is that true?
 
#5 ·
When I'm looking at these 8.8's, would you recommend a LSD over Open w/ lockers for my type of driving. I dont see any insane rock crawling in my future. May find my self in a rut or over a fallen tree, so I dont know the chances of a tire lifted in the air.
 
#6 · (Edited)
MarkNog said:
With 33's and a 5 speed, personally I would go with the 4.10s on your budget.

Ford 8.8 with 4.10s - $300 (junkyard)
Dana 30 regear to 4.10 - $200
Artic axle truss with tj mounts - $300
8.8 to 1310 flange adapter - $30
2" springs $200
JKS 1.25" body lift - $100
M.O.R.E MML - $100
Bilstein 5100 shocks - $300

This is $1530, and that leaves you with 1470 for wheels and tires... seems do able.

This is... if you do the work yourself.
Most need a sye and drive shaft with the 8.8, and he also needs a lift for the 33s. The 4.10s would be doggy but Doable. It he does need the sye and ds, he will need control arms to dial in the pinion unless he can perfectly set up the brackets for his pinion angle when welding the brackets.



Anyways, I might be wrong but I don't think a lunch box locker can Be installed in an LSD carrier. It would have to be a full carrier locker. With an open you have the option of a lunchbox.
 
#7 ·
I found this ad posted today, which so happens to be in the same city i live in.
97 Ford Explore 8.8 4.10 ratio, open carrier

I just have this feeling that I might not get around to ever doing lockers, so maybe I should just find one with an LSD already installed...

Looking at that Artic Truss kit....HOLY CRAP thats awesome! I was really scared about getting everything lined up correctly. Would I be able to take the axle and the artic kit to a welder with out him needing the jeep? That would make everything a lot more do-able for me. I can bolt in a new axle, just not weld.
 
#8 ·
Rpkittle said:
I found this ad posted today, which so happens to be in the same city i live in.
97 Ford Explore 8.8 4.10 ratio, open carrier

I just have this feeling that I might not get around to ever doing lockers, so maybe I should just find one with an LSD already installed...

Looking at that Artic Truss kit....HOLY CRAP thats awesome! I was really scared about getting everything lined up correctly. Would I be able to take the axle and the artic kit to a welder with out him needing the jeep? That would make everything a lot more do-able for me. I can bolt in a new axle, just not weld.
Unless you measures the pinion angle accurately ahead of time then yeah you need the jeep. Sometimes the stock LSD barely works. Also I can pull full 8.8s with discs and 4.10a open or Ls for 125. And it takes about an hour to pull them.
 
#9 ·
Well i decided to go another route....this is what i scored:
Dana35 from 98 sport with 55k miles.
Super 35 kit w/ detroit lockers and 4.56 gears. I met the technician who installed them and everything. I was told everything was installed with a full replacement of all seals, bearing and lubricants 10k miles ago. I got this axle for $500, and i can bolt it in myself.

I didnt think that was too shabby saying that the super35 kit was $1200 on quadratec!

So my next plan is to figure out how i want to do my lift. Does anyone know how to measure if my springs have sag in them? I just rolled over 100k miles on friday :)

EDIT: And the reason he sold was to go up to a 37" tire and didnt want to even chance the axle. I dont plan any bigger than 33" so I'm happy
 
#10 ·
May I suggest the Zone 4.25" combo kit, thats what I'm running and am very happy with it.
 
#11 ·
I am trying to undo a cheap lift with a transfer case drop the PO did on my jeep. 3.5 inch lift with a TC drop and massive vibes. I would suggest this lift or something like it...

Savvy/Currie 3" or 4" Lift - Configurable

Followed by an Advanced Adapters SYE and Tom Woods drive shaft. I'm still new to all of this but it seems that there is the expensive way and the other way. I don't see many people happy with the other way after its installed. In short... do it right the first time if you plan on keeping your Jeep for a long time. I'm no expert but I have talked at length with those that are so I thought I would pass along what little I have learned.
Good luck with your project!
 
#14 ·
I wouldn't be afraid to wheel the hell out of a super35 kit on 33's
That's money we'll spent.

I'd look at the dpgoffroad site.
They have some nicely put together kits to run 33's

Cheaper options are rough country 4" kits
But I would do a cheap 4" kit from rough country
1.25" body lift
Ome shocks
Sye and Tom woods shaft $500 stright up

Then later on the body lift would allow a tummy tuck and gastank raise

Rough country use to offer kits minus shocks
There 4" kits are decent

Look into bds suspension also
 
#15 ·
Thanks for all the suggestions guys!

To be honest I'm starting to freak out about all this lol. I just need to get my head straight and keep going!

Anyways, my most desired goal is ride quality on road. I hear really great things about blisteins 5100's. But then what springs should I get? I was still looking at a 2" lift with a 1.25 body lift. I was trying to go above a 3" lift to try avoiding a SYE, as a 1" mml is much cheaper.

So here are some questions:
1) blisteins 5100 with stock springs and 2" bb?
2) blisteins 5100 with which aftermarket 2" spring?
3) bds lift kit, which I think is 2.5"?
4) zone 4.25" kit?

Part of my reason to being a little freaked out is that I just paid off my student loans of $9000 with nothing in return it seems like lol. This may just take some extra time to build up. I was hoping to have new shoes by the first snow fall, but that may not happen.
 
#17 ·
Its been a month and I have some progress!

Now this is what I currently have:
1) Dana 35 with Super 35 Kit (30 Spline and Detroit Locker)(4.56 Gear Ratio)
2) (4x) 33x12.5x15 Wrangler Duratracs

This is what I Just ordered from AOR:
1) 4.56 Sierra Gears for Dana 30 (Should be here Friday)
2) Dana 30 master install kit with Timken Bearings (Should Be here Friday)
3) Zone 4.25" Combo Lift with Hydro shocks (Should be here Tuesday)

Just in case anyone was curious on my total cost:
Axle = $550
Tires = $792 (W/ free shipping from amazon)
Gears and Install Kit = $290
Zone Combo Life = $499
Total: $2131
Minus $160 in rebates
Grand Total for project: $1971

I'm going to try and have everything installed next week!

I spent a lot of time researching, and I really think I'll be happy with my new setup. Especially Since I'm running on stock springs and leaky shocks lol.
 
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