I need new brake calipers on a 98 tj 4.0 auto. They seem to be sticking and causing my wheels to lock. A mechanic said he would charge me 60 to install but would it be easy to do myself? I'd rather do it myself and maybe spend the savings on the parts. What companies would you guys suggest? Not looking to break the bank I'm on a college budget
I just got one side replaced just the caliper though and it was 83.00 with installation, my pins where sticking locking the caliper up on the passenger side. I would just pay someone to do it right if your not sure on what to do. Although it isn't to hard brakes are your biggest safety concern on any vehicle. Good luck! Also pick up one of those chilton manuals for the jeep, they come in handy.
You can get calipers for about $25ea depending on the auto store. Replacing them is easy, just need to bleed the line after connecting them. It makes it easier if you have 2ppl to help bleed the line. Make sure to pickup a bottle of brake fluid when you buy the caliper to refill or add to the resivoir
98TJ / Hi-Lined / Zip Lockers / 35s
I have had more than one set come out the box looking as bad as the ones that I sent back. I have had seals start leaking on the first pump on the bleed and pistons that were scored all to hell. Luck of the draw maybe but sometimes it seemed like they took the cores in, cleaned them up a little and threw them in the box marked rebuilt!
__________________ Violence may not be the answer but it sure cuts down on the stupid questions
My caliper seized yesterday, so I replaced everything today (I toasted the caliper limping home).
That's cool; I just saw this thread found that link this morning and came here to post it, and you beat me to it. Those are great instructions, and it is pretty easy...it's hared to bleed them after you've finished.
They're not kidding you need two people, I gave up after 15 minutes of pumping anf catching fluid...I'll have to finish it tomorrow, if someone stops by to help.
2003 Wrangler TJ 4.0 Auto: Stock
1991 Cherokee Laredo 4.0 Auto:
31x10.50 STTs 4.5" Rusty's Coils and 3" Rear Full Packs; WJ Drop Pit man Arm; Iron Man Fixed LCAs, Adj. UCAs; Adj. Track Bar; 4:10s; Injectors, 63mm Throttle Body; Safari Snorkel
1980 CJ 7 258 4 Speed: 2" Homemade Lift, 31 BFG MTs
Advanced brand. Brake light is not on but pressure does not feel consistant. Pedal will have no good pressure then it will presurize hard causing wheel to lock and skid. It's in the front.
It sounds like you have a booster going bad and it's going to be kinda hard to diagnose. Sometimes the booster will relax internally due to the valve going bad and let the master pushrod go forward slightly and cover the replenishment port in the master. That stops the fluid from returning from the caliper as it expands due to heat. When that happens, the fluid will expand, the pedal gets difficult to push and the caliper will self apply and lock up and or overheat.
The inconsistent part bothers me because that can indicate a bent axle in the rear if you have discs and you've got piston knock back, or a wheelbearing going out. That usually shows up as a very soft pedal that comes back with a couple of pumps.
Do you have someone that can help you bleed the brakes and let me know how much fluid you're getting out of the front and rear if you push the pedal very hard and fast? If you aren't getting good flow to the back, that can mean your combo valve under the master is sticking and will need to be taken apart and cleaned. I've seen that produce very similar symptoms to what you've described.
I am Savvy, I am the brake Wizard.