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Old 10-16-2007, 03:32 PM   #31
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No ones got any experience on either of these lockers?

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Old 10-16-2007, 06:58 PM   #32
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Well the merits of an ARB or an OX over one another are debated endlessly on forums everyday. Here however it seems like your decision process is circling around the compressor. I will tell you that the standard ARB compressor is not made to air up tires. They have come out with a better more expensive compressor that does have more CFM capabilities to fill tires in a more expedient manner. However I have not looked to see how much it is. I'm sure there are those on here that do know that and will speak up.

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Old 10-16-2007, 07:46 PM   #33
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FYI, I have 4.10s and 31 MTRs, getting 16mpg, mostly highway, top on. Top off and its like 12. If your concerned with gas mileage, get All terrains, not Muds, and maybe think about more of a highway gear.
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Old 10-16-2007, 08:54 PM   #34
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BLK, Im talking about their standard compressor. It states that it can air up tires up to 35" I believe. Im only going to run a 31" tire. You dont think it wil be able to air those up?

Rubi, right now I get about 14 so that would still be an upgrade. Plus I drive with my top on all the time since its gonna be winter soon. In the summer its gonna be mostly a new bike Im gonna be buying, and the TJ will get used here and there (minus the top). Im deff. going with a mud terrain becasue Im getting a great deal on a trade fro some. So I kinda gotta go with those. I should go with 3.73 then you think though?
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Old 10-16-2007, 09:02 PM   #35
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pm me the price your trying to get out of your used lift.. i may be interested =D

also how long you been running it?
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Old 10-16-2007, 09:53 PM   #36
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Old 10-16-2007, 11:36 PM   #37
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It probably sounds really weird but I am planning on building my rig down a bit (as far as height goes). Currently its on a 4" skyjacker lift and 33" muds with 4.88 gears. The plans are as follows:
-2.5" Rancho rock crawler lift
-homemade adjustable upper's with johnny joints
-31" Mud terrains
-OX locker rear with 30 spline alloy shafts (keepin the D35 since Im onyl gonna be runnin 31's)
-Detroit tru trac front (stock spline count)
-D30 axle stube seals
-D35 homemade truss and welded tubes to center section
-high flow water pump
-headers
-aluminum radiator
-electric fan conversion
-cold air intake of some sort
-3.73 or 4.10 gears (what do you guys think?)

Im sure Im missing a few things but thats what I got off the top of my head. The gas mileage is terrible on it right now and I want it a little better otherwise I wont even be able to drive it. I want it to LOOK near stock but then do awesome off road. So what do you guys think of the plans? Any suggestions?
What about just changing gears to get better gas milage maybe 456 gears? Thats closer to stock i think?
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Old 10-17-2007, 12:19 AM   #38
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I thought about it but I outweighed that option with a few concerns. One being that I want it locked up front and rear. Thats not gonna work too well with the 33's unless I swap a new rear axle and do some heavy modification (alloy shafts) to the 30 up front. I also think it would be cool to have a near stock looking rig that can climb like a billy goat. Secondly, gas mileage would still not be to where it could with the 31's (althogh I dont really care about that one as much). Thirdly, my current suspension does not ride as softly as I'd like. I had a ZJ lifted to 5" so Im well aware of how a lifted Jeep rides but I want my TJ to ride as good or better than stock but still maintain an amazing off road ability without going high or converting to a long arm set up. Hence the reason Im going to pair that awesome lift with some ome nitro charger shocks. That way I can have a well versed dd that will dominate off road without being huge. Thats really what Im going for. Sure I may get hung up here and there but thats nothin a little armor, lockers, and my winch wont be able to overcome.
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Old 10-17-2007, 05:44 AM   #39
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Well I can tell you this bro. The cost of swaping gears, installation, etc. etc. WILL outweigh that 2mpg for a LONG time. Also, 16 highway with top on is SUMMER. Winter always drops a few mpg too. Im not gonna tell you what you should or shouldnt do, but I can tell you that I am running 4.11s with 31 MT/Rs and a 350 K5 Blazer gets better gas mileage stock . You want gas mileage, those 30", 3.42 gear ratio or w/e they are Xs and sports pulling 20mpg sure do look tempting
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Old 10-17-2007, 06:57 AM   #40
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i doubt seriously that a mud terrain is gonna have any MPG difference over an all terrain...
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Old 10-17-2007, 07:30 AM   #41
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Like I said, I jsut made that reason up for myself to justify doing this stuff. I do get bad gas mileage but dont really care. I also think as big jeep said that a mud terrain isnt gonna matter much. Especially at a 31" size.
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Old 10-17-2007, 11:20 AM   #42
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i doubt seriously that a mud terrain is gonna have any MPG difference over an all terrain...
AT to MT is usually 1-2mpg difference. Radial streets to MT can be as much as 4mpg sometimes from what ive seen. Doesnt sound like much, but in the truck world 3-4mpg can be the difference in great gas mileage and crappy gas mileage for some vehicles. Just my .02. Ive always gone by the "just high enough to clear" theory, so I get what your doing. More stability, while still clearing your trails, just don't do it for mpg reasons unless you go more severe.
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Old 10-17-2007, 01:04 PM   #43
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I know what I want. The whole gas mileage thing isnt real huge to me but it will be nice because regardless, going from a 31" mud terrain tire I run now and 4" high. I will deff. get a little further on less fuel when I loose that weight going to a 31" mud an drop 1.5". Then loosing my mechaniacal fan in favor of an electric and the cold air intake and the headers/exhaust and the 63 mm tb will add up to increase the mileage a little more. In the end though, I really dont care all that much.
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Old 10-17-2007, 08:01 PM   #44
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AT to MT is usually 1-2mpg difference. Radial streets to MT can be as much as 4mpg sometimes from what ive seen. Doesnt sound like much, but in the truck world 3-4mpg can be the difference in great gas mileage and crappy gas mileage for some vehicles. Just my .02. Ive always gone by the "just high enough to clear" theory, so I get what your doing. More stability, while still clearing your trails, just don't do it for mpg reasons unless you go more severe.
and why is this? because of the weight?

my buddy had 33" bfg AT's on his YJ...now he has 33" mastercraft mud's...no difference (besides the hum )
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Old 10-17-2007, 10:20 PM   #45
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Ok, so what if I got a taller tire and kept it narrow? IM talkin amybe some 34x9.5's. Interco makes a tire that size. The TSL something or others. Anyway, I figure with a lesser contact patch it would put far less stress on the drive line. There for the chromoly shafts I get in the rear should hold up and my D30 should still be alright stock. They dont weigh too much either I dont believe. They look a military tire too so thats kinda cool. I still havent convinced myself yet though. You guys think thats a better idea than 31's? Haha, the 31's would be wider too. Let em know. Im glad I have time to talk through allt his before I go and order the stuff and wish I did it another way.
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Old 10-18-2007, 02:19 AM   #46
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Dont listen to these clowns GRNTJ!!! Most of them seem to be missing the point. I wish eveyone would stop commenting on the gas mileage. Let it go, he said its not the reason for his mods. I have said it before and ill say it again, everyone on the forum thinks that bigger is better and big tires rule!!! This is so not true. They give you more ground clearance yes i will give you that. But if they are not locked what good are they. You still have a 2wd jeep. I have seen it a handfull of times where a huge jeep with 35 or 37 inch tires will be there spinning tires and a little jeep on 31 or 32's with a BB will come and crawl right over the very same obsticle. I think your right on with your mods GRNTJ. I would go with the OX locker. Why mess with a compressor and air lines and all that crap. OX in the rear, Aussie up front, best buy for the buck. Upgrade your shafts, do your tube seals, do your 2.5 lift and i would go with the 4.56 gears just in case you decide to go back to 33's. It might be overkill but you dont plan to drive it everyday anyway since your getting the Honda. Oh ya for get about the MML. If your gonna do belly up and a SYE why do a MML, dont forget if you do the MML you will have to do a BL unless you wanna bust out the saw. Your on the right track dude. Forget about the big jeep phase its over rated. My buddy just put a 12 inch lift and 39's on his yj. Dana 60's and all that jazz 8K is what he spent on mods and he's selling it after having it back for about a month now. We were talking and he said "ITS JUST NOT PRACTICLE". Guess what....... hes looking at tj's and he's gonna run a small setup. Hope this helps GRN. Remember this is just my two pennies....................
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Old 10-18-2007, 09:13 AM   #47
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Thanks Wr@ngler! Its good to hear some words of encouragment. Not that I feel like Im being ripped down by everyone else, its good to get the input. But its nice to hear that your friend wants to run a smaller set up. I was leaning toward an OX so thats probably set in stone now, as is the lift. I still cant decide on the tires though. Runnin a 34x9.5 would be sweet. With the 2.5 and a bl I could probably clear them too. I would be a litle nervous about breaking a shaft but it doesnt seem like I would with such a narrow tire. How about experience on that one? Anyone run a tall narrow tire on stock locked axles? Although, staying with 31's would be cheaper, and Im lookin for a cheap set up that will deliver off road and still be practical to me. It will get driven a lot in the winter though and I know I will not want to go up in tire size any more than 1" taller MAYBE way down the line. Thats why I want to keep the ratio numerically higher.
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Old 10-18-2007, 10:05 AM   #48
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your gonna want lower gearing if you run 34's...most people running 35's on 4cyl run 4.88's with several of them wishing they had went 5.13
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Old 10-18-2007, 10:19 AM   #49
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I know, if I go to 34's I deff. wont run the ratio I would for 31's. I would run 4.56 probably. I have an I6 though, not a 4 banger. I would be doing a 1"bl though if I try for 34's. I think it would look cool but I dont know if it would mess the shafts up. Being such a narrow tire I think it wouldnt be as bad. Id still be worried though.
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Old 10-18-2007, 12:00 PM   #50
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Keep in mind, with a 2.5" lift, 31's will look a bit small. If you choose to do a belly up, you are pretty much going to need to do a BL to give you clearance. So you are now sitting at 3.5". THAT gap will look rather like a roller skate.

My wife is 5'1" and I have a 2.5" lift with 1.25" BL and she gets in okay. I have rockers with tubes for her to stand on and grab handles to facilitate entry.

The belly up is a great idea for better breakover and clearance, but you WILL need to allow room for it. So looking 'stock' may not be as easy as you think.

My setup:

2.5" OME
1.25" JKS BL and 1" MML
D35 with Yukon shafts, 4.88, and ARB in back
D30 with Lockright/Aussie in front

Here's how it looked on 30's, and kinda what you can expect yours to look like if you go with a bellyup and that 1" BL:

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Old 10-18-2007, 12:05 PM   #51
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Keep in mind, with a 2.5" lift, 31's will look a bit small. If you choose to do a belly up, you are pretty much going to need to do a BL to give you clearance. So you are now sitting at 3.5". THAT gap will look rather like a roller skate.

My wife is 5'1" and I have a 2.5" lift with 1.25" BL and she gets in okay. I have rockers with tubes for her to stand on and grab handles to facilitate entry.

The belly up is a great idea for better breakover and clearance, but you WILL need to allow room for it. So looking 'stock' may not be as easy as you think.

My setup:

2.5" OME
1.25" JKS BL and 1" MML
D35 with Yukon shafts, 4.88, and ARB in back
D30 with Lockright/Aussie in front

Here's how it looked on 30's, and kinda what you can expect yours to look like if you go with a bellyup and that 1" BL:



The folks I know who use the larger compressor still wouldn't use it for airing up. CO2 or a small aftermarket compressor would both be faster. I use CO2 that I set up for 125.00.
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Old 10-18-2007, 01:39 PM   #52
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I know, if I go to 34's I deff. wont run the ratio I would for 31's. I would run 4.56 probably. I have an I6 though, not a 4 banger. I would be doing a 1"bl though if I try for 34's. I think it would look cool but I dont know if it would mess the shafts up. Being such a narrow tire I think it wouldnt be as bad. Id still be worried though.
aaah, ok...for some reason i thought you had 4banger
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Old 10-18-2007, 05:07 PM   #53
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Thanks for the pics eric. I dont mind it looking like that. Like I said, I'd like the 34's but Im not sure if it would put too much stress and break a shaft. Namely on the D30. With alloy shafts in the back I think it would be fine. I just cant really decide. If I stay with my 31" muds choice than I will instead use 1" OME lift coils and the 1"bl to clear the belly up and keep it looking a little better. I guess I have a lot to work out in my head. My g/f is 5'1" too and I built my rocker guards so I will probably weld the bars off the side soon. At least for protection if nothing else. But I already have handles inside for her to get in with. Can someone make up my mind for me on 31x10.5's or 34x9.5's!? I like the idea of military looking tires but I dont want them to mess my other plans up.
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Old 10-18-2007, 11:16 PM   #54
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lol im actually excited to see how your build comes out
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Old 10-18-2007, 11:53 PM   #55
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thanks dw. Im kinda anxious as well.I have never tryed anything like this and Im really curious to see how it will do. I dont think I have known many people, if any, who have gone and built there rig smaller. But my question still remains, will the 34's break my axle shafts if they are locked, alloy rear 30 spline and stock front shafts. Screw it, I'll stick to the original plan and stay with 31's.
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Old 10-19-2007, 07:45 AM   #56
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GrnTJ, consider that the 34's are a fairly uncommon size, and the cost of the tires may be prohibitive. Not trying to sway you, but just suggesting that 33 or 35 may actually be cheaper options than that 34.
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Old 10-19-2007, 09:03 AM   #57
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How bout 32's and i dont know how good they are but quadratec sells cv drive shafts for like 300-400 bucks.
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Old 10-19-2007, 02:10 PM   #58
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I was considering 32's. Id still be slightly worried about locking them on stock front shafts though. I guess if Im careful it would be ok.
Eric, those 34's are $165 a tire. I have already looked into it. They really arent bad at all.
Hkd, Im gonna go with a sye and cv shaft package deal from performanceoffroadcenter.com. They got a deal to get both for $465 right now which is pretty good.
I guess 32's could be alright. I will look into what kind I may want to get.
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Old 10-19-2007, 02:41 PM   #59
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32's wouldn't be any worse than 34's...if your gonna consider 34's then consider 32's.

but since your rig could probably go the same places on 31's as it could on 32's just get the 31's.
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Old 10-19-2007, 05:11 PM   #60
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Hmm, you make a valid point. Why pay more I suppose.

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