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Old 06-08-2011, 12:04 PM   #1
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New serpentine belt broke ??

i use my 97 4 cyl. for snow plowing and went to put it away for the summer- when I started it there was a squealing sound and then the Serp. belt which i had replaced in Sept broke off?? What would cause the new belt to break??- With no belt on should all the pullies be able to spin??- thanks

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Old 06-08-2011, 12:09 PM   #2
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I would replace the belt and make sure all the pully's are spinning, was there any smoke or burning smell?

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Old 06-08-2011, 12:14 PM   #3
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No smoke- do not remember about burning smell- it happened so fast- what would cause the squealing?- I tried spinning the pullies - the idlers spin freely does the jeep need top be running for the other pullies to spin-
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Old 06-08-2011, 12:22 PM   #4
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Yes they all should spin easily except for the one connected to the crank shaft. Cant think of which one it is at the moment. alternator, a/c (if you have it), power steering, and I think an idler pully or two.

Make sure all the pulleys are inline. this may sound strange, but a friend of mine has an older VW and we didnt pay attention when we put the new belts on, but one of the mounting bolts for the ac compressor had broken, so when we tensioned the belt it bent the remaining bolt and the pulley stuck out a good half inch farther than the rest of them. the belt lasted about 40 minutes after that.

If your going to be leaving the vehicle sitting for the summer, you should runn it for about a half hour once a month during the summer, just to dry out any moisture that might get into into with the heating and colling during the summer.
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Old 06-08-2011, 12:29 PM   #5
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I would say you either had a bad belt, or something has or is getting ready to seize up.
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Old 06-08-2011, 12:57 PM   #6
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Yep, everything should spin except for the big one in the center on the bottom of the engine.
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Old 06-08-2011, 01:18 PM   #7
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All the rest are driven by the crank pulley so they should spin freely. The squealing was more than likely one of them with the bearing freezing up. Since the teeth on the serpentine drive things I would check the tensioner (no teeth) smooth = squeal.
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Old 06-08-2011, 02:10 PM   #8
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great guys thanks-The reason I am asking is that the pulley on the alt. did not spin when i quickly checked- Not sure if the power had to be on for it to spin???? Does this mean that my alt. is shot??? thanks so much for all your help!!
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Old 06-08-2011, 02:31 PM   #9
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The alalternator should spin freely. If it's dragging or not free wheeling, the bearings went in it.

Just watch when you go to get a new one. 90 amp was standard, 117 was optional.
Our 97 has the optional one, and Advance didn't even list it, only one they showed when I looked it up was the 90.
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Old 06-08-2011, 04:01 PM   #10
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SO- if i go to spin the alt pulley with the power off and it does not move means that my alt. is shot or just the pulley??-- thanks
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Old 06-08-2011, 07:31 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BEBOP86 View Post
SO- if i go to spin the alt pulley with the power off and it does not move means that my alt. is shot or just the pulley??-- thanks

Power on or power off, the pulley should spin. The alternator is shot. Get a new one.
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Old 06-08-2011, 10:14 PM   #12
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you can replace the bearings in the alternator. You don't need to buy an alternator just because the pulley won't spin. Theres a nut inside the pulley. This is where you attack it. Before you take out the four bolts on the side of the alternator that hold the casing together, make sure you mark the side of the alternator with a crayon or marker so you get it lined back up properly after you take it apart.
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Old 06-08-2011, 10:19 PM   #13
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also, be wary of autozone and advance alternators. Not the best rebuild jobs. In case you didn't know, all alternators and starters are rebuilt, unless you specifically state over and over that you want a new one. And you can buy a winch for the price of a truly new alternator or starter. I suggest you find an independent parts store that works on alernators and starters. Its usually one part in the alternator that stops charging and it will cost you half the price of a rebuilt one to change out the one part. Thats what you are buying out of the box anyways, an old housing with new internals.
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Old 06-09-2011, 02:19 PM   #14
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thanks so much- I checked again this morning and the pulley on the alt. is frozen solid- should i just get a new (used)alt or should I let a shop look at it first??
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Old 06-09-2011, 03:01 PM   #15
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Up to you, since time isn't a factor. You can have a shop tear it down and see what it needs to rebuild it. For most though it's a stop at the store and get a new one as time is a factor.
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Old 06-09-2011, 08:11 PM   #16
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An automotive electrical shop will be able to replace the bearings for about $30. Yes the alternator should always spin freely.
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Old 06-10-2011, 11:17 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doclouie View Post
An automotive electrical shop will be able to replace the bearings for about $30. Yes the alternator should always spin freely.
True. The alternator could still be good and all you will need to replace is the pulley/bearings
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Old 06-10-2011, 02:46 PM   #18
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thanks so much guys you are the best!!- I think I am going to get a new one just to be safe- Since mine is a 1997 4 cyl with a/c- it gets the 117 amp one??- when I called carquest they only show a 90?? thanks again

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