New tierod tube?? - Jeep Wrangler Forum
Jeep Wrangler Forum

Go Back   Jeep Wrangler Forum > TJ Jeep Wrangler Forum > TJ General Discussion Forum

Join Wrangler Forum Today


Reply
 
Thread Tools

Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about them on WranglerForum.com
Old 07-09-2014, 09:06 AM   #1
Jeeper
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 17
New tierod tube??

Just went to get an alignment and they said I need a tierod tube? 2005 TJ rubicon with a newly installed Zone 4.25 combo lift.
Is this the dealer trying to get me to buy something I don't need?
He said if I didn't get a new one it would bend??

Ottawa05tj is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 07-09-2014, 09:13 AM   #2
Supporting Member

WF Supporting Member
 
Water Dog's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Roseville, CA
Posts: 5,575
Images: 11
If the one that is on there isn't bent, and the threads are good, you don't need a new one. If you're running oversized tires...33"+, a ZJ tie rod upgrade is a good upgrade choice (but for 33's, not mandatory) because it uses a solid bar instead of a hollow tube for the tie rod.

__________________
Dennis
Water Dog is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 07-09-2014, 09:19 AM   #3
Jeeper
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 17
The work order said I need two of them part# 52005743AC.
Ottawa05tj is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 07-09-2014, 09:52 AM   #4
Jeeper
 
krisbman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Cheshire Oregon
Posts: 8,091
Quote:
Originally Posted by Water Dog View Post
If the one that is on there isn't bent, and the threads are good, you don't need a new one. If you're running oversized tires...33"+, a ZJ tie rod upgrade is a good upgrade choice (but for 33's, not mandatory) because it uses a solid bar instead of a hollow tube for the tie rod.
Even if it is bent its easily fixed. I fixed my factory TJ tie rod after i put the ZJ one on for a spare. A couple whacks over a solid object where the bend is will bring it right back.
krisbman is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 07-09-2014, 09:55 AM   #5
Supporting Member

WF Supporting Member
 
Water Dog's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Roseville, CA
Posts: 5,575
Images: 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ottawa05tj View Post
The work order said I need two of them part# 52005743AC.
I don't know where they would use the second one. There's only one tie rod tube on a Jeep.

Quote:
Originally Posted by krisbman View Post
Even if it is bent its easily fixed. I fixed my factory TJ tie rod after i put the ZJ one on for a spare. A couple whacks over a solid object where the bend is will bring it right back.
This is true, but I wouldn't expect a shop to do it....too much liability and not worth the time or risk for a shop.
__________________
Dennis
Water Dog is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 07-09-2014, 10:00 AM   #6
Jeeper
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 17
I called them and it one part and two hours labour to instal it plus a half hour to "adjust" it. All that on top of the 1.6 hours for the alignment. No wonder no one goes to the dealer for anything! NOT GONNA HAPPEN!
Is there an upgraded one that I can buy and take to my mechanic?
Ottawa05tj is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 07-09-2014, 10:02 AM   #7
Knows a couple things...

WF Supporting Member
 
Jerry Bransford's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Escondido, Calif.
Posts: 32,269
Images: 2
A couple facts need to be noted here...

First, the TJ's factory tie rod is skinny and hollow as it was only designed to be strong enough for the factory size tires. Installing 33" and bigger tires means its time to go to a stronger solid tie rod. I certainly wouldn't have the dealer install one since you'll pay them 3-4X what you could install it for on your own. Or 2X what a 4x4 shop could install one for.

And that part number you posted is the tie rod end, not the tie rod itself.

And once bent, a tie rod should normally be replaced. Straightening it enough to get home is one thing but running it on the trail again after it was straightened is quite another... once bent, the tie rod will bend more easily the next time. Some tie rod bends are bad enough that the tie rod could fail completely after having been bent back straight which could be catastrophic.

With 33's or larger tires, it is a good idea to go with a stronger tie rod, that is for sure. I personally recommend the Currie Heavy Duty Steering Kit which replaces the tie rod and drag link with very beefy replacements. It's not cheap but if you offroad on tough trails, it's worth it... CURRIE CE-9701 CURRECTLYNC® - HD TIE ROD SYSTEM - Savvy Off Road Aluminum.

It's installable at home but any 4x4 shop can install it for you. The Currie kit would be a good match for your Rubicon's trail capabilities. That particular kit is one of the most widely recommended upgrades for our Jeeps, there's no doubt among experienced Wrangler wheelers that it's the #1 steering upgrade kit out there.
__________________
Gone wheeling, back late sunday...
Remember that having a different opinion doesn't also require one to be a jerk when expressing it.

When you have a choice, buy American.

Jerry Bransford is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 07-09-2014, 10:38 AM   #8
Jeeper
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 17
I havnt had the jeep very long and I havnt even gotten a have to take it off road yet. I am a buy the best kinda guy and would rather spend more money on the best part. Are there any other good options other then the currie. I already have the currie HD adjustable track bar that I put in when I installed the lift last week.
Ottawa05tj is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 07-09-2014, 11:05 AM   #9
Supporting Member

WF Supporting Member
 
Holton345's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Yazoo City, MS
Posts: 1,454
As suggested earlier, the ZJ swap is excellent and not costly. (I spent about $210 shipped for all five parts as well as a sixth, all Moog USA-made parts, too.)

If you want the information (website, part numbers, photos, etc.) just let me know.

It was a pretty simple and quick install. The hardest part was breaking all four ends loose, and Jerry provided an excellent method for that.

These parts are designed for the 1998 Grand Cherokee with the V8 engine. They are very stout. The drag link is essentially the same as the TJ one (but a lot less expensive). But it is longer (but that does not affect anything) and the boss for the steering stabilizer is at a different angle (which also does not affect anything so far as I can tell).

I use 33x12.5x15 tires on a 4" lift. I bang around off road a lot, but never on anything resembling Moab or the California trails that Jerry runs. I am not hardcore, but do drive off the pavement "spiritedly" you might say. ;-)

I have been told by locals that this steering system would be fine with a better track bar so long as I stick to 33" tires and don't hit the Rubicon Trail any time soon. If I do that I will have the full Currie CorrectLync system on my TJ along with a lot of other upgrades.

But for 33s and what I do the ZJ swap gave me four new ends, two of which are larger and stronger than stock, a solid and larger tie rod and a new drag link that is about the same. The four ends are frequently the cause of DW. I was starting to get a controllable wobble at 45 MPH and it was getting worse in increments that were noticeable to me. When I did the swap I noted that two ends were shot and two were getting loose. All had busted boots and were filled with muck. So I accidentally timed the swap just right, I guess. Steering/handling is much improved.

I am about to give a chance to the guys at Metalcloak be impress me with their 3.5" lift with the aluminum double-ended control arms with the new Duroflex joints and the Old Man Emu shocks. It comes with an adjustable front track bar, so my situation up front should be sorted quite well after that gear is bolted on in conjunction with my ZJ parts.
__________________
Wade

2003 Shale Green TJ Sport
2013 Black JK Sport S

The terms "PO" and POS" are interchangeable when referring to the guy who used to own my TJ.
Holton345 is online now   Quote Quick Reply
Old 07-09-2014, 11:07 AM   #10
Jeeper
 
krisbman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Cheshire Oregon
Posts: 8,091
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford View Post
A couple facts need to be noted here... First, the TJ's factory tie rod is skinny and hollow as it was only designed to be strong enough for the factory size tires. Installing 33" and bigger tires means its time to go to a stronger solid tie rod. I certainly wouldn't have the dealer install one since you'll pay them 3-4X what you could install it for on your own. Or 2X what a 4x4 shop could install one for. And that part number you posted is the tie rod end, not the tie rod itself. And once bent, a tie rod should normally be replaced. Straightening it enough to get home is one thing but running it on the trail again after it was straightened is quite another... once bent, the tie rod will bend more easily the next time. Some tie rod bends are bad enough that the tie rod could fail completely after having been bent back straight which could be catastrophic. With 33's or larger tires, it is a good idea to go with a stronger tie rod, that is for sure. I personally recommend the Currie Heavy Duty Steering Kit which replaces the tie rod and drag link with very beefy replacements. It's not cheap but if you offroad on tough trails, it's worth it... CURRIE CE-9701 CURRECTLYNC® - HD TIE ROD SYSTEM - Savvy Off Road Aluminum. It's installable at home but any 4x4 shop can install it for you. The Currie kit would be a good match for your Rubicon's trail capabilities. That particular kit is one of the most widely recommended upgrades for our Jeeps, there's no doubt among experienced Wrangler wheelers that it's the #1 steering upgrade kit out there.
Thats kinda what i was getting at. Its an easy on trail fix that will get u back home
krisbman is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 07-09-2014, 11:11 AM   #11
Jeeper
 
ninjaturtle0's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Texas
Posts: 920
Currie is the best one on the market but if you can't spend that much then go with the ZJ rod... Dealer tried to tell me 400 total to change my rod w/ factory ones. found the ZJ rod at partsgeek.com for around 20 bucks lol
__________________


/l ,[____],
l---L -OlllllllO-
()_) ()_)--o-)_)
ninjaturtle0 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 07-09-2014, 12:38 PM   #12
Jeeper
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 17
I went ahead and bought the Currie. I already have the Currie HD adjustable track bar and was impressed with it's quality. Hopefully I can tackle the install myself and then just take the jeep for an alignment. I really gotta stop spending money!!!!
Ottawa05tj is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 07-09-2014, 12:41 PM   #13
Jeeper
 
krisbman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Cheshire Oregon
Posts: 8,091
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ottawa05tj View Post
I went ahead and bought the Currie. I already have the Currie HD adjustable track bar and was impressed with it's quality. Hopefully I can tackle the install myself and then just take the jeep for an alignment. I really gotta stop spending money!!!!
If you can install the tie rod you can do your own alignment.
krisbman is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 07-09-2014, 08:17 PM   #14
Knows a couple things...

WF Supporting Member
 
Jerry Bransford's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Escondido, Calif.
Posts: 32,269
Images: 2
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ottawa05tj View Post
I went ahead and bought the Currie. I already have the Currie HD adjustable track bar and was impressed with it's quality. Hopefully I can tackle the install myself and then just take the jeep for an alignment. I really gotta stop spending money!!!!
Good decision.

The most difficult part of swapping steering components for beginners is separating the tapered joints. Like where the tie rod ends fit into the steering knuckles.

The beginners recommend pickle forks, heat, Pitman arm pullers, etc. to separate the tapered joints but the age-old method that works with nothing special is just to smack the SIDE of the tapered joint the stud passes through with nothing more than a heavy smooth-face hammer like a small sledgehammer. Don't pound on the stud itself which will just swell/mushroom the stud and make it fit even tighter.

With a little practice, this technique can separate all of the tapered joints used in the steering system in under a minute.

Here are a few pics of the technique. If it doesn't work for you within 3-4 good healthy/solid/hard whacks, stop swinging the hammer like a girl.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	TieRodSledgeHammer.jpg
Views:	17
Size:	27.7 KB
ID:	1286393   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMAG0927.jpg
Views:	18
Size:	223.0 KB
ID:	1286401  

Click image for larger version

Name:	ball_joint_removal.jpg
Views:	17
Size:	154.7 KB
ID:	1286409  
__________________
Gone wheeling, back late sunday...
Remember that having a different opinion doesn't also require one to be a jerk when expressing it.

When you have a choice, buy American.

Jerry Bransford is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 07-09-2014, 08:18 PM   #15
Jeeper
 
krisbman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Cheshire Oregon
Posts: 8,091
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford View Post
Good decision. The most difficult part of swapping steering components for beginners is separating the tapered joints. Like where the tie rod ends fit into the steering knuckles. The beginners recommend pickle forks, heat, Pitman arm pullers, etc. to separate the tapered joints but the age-old method that works with nothing special is just to smack the SIDE of the tapered joint the stud passes through with nothing more than a heavy smooth-face hammer like a small sledgehammer. Don't pound on the stud itself which will just swell/mushroom the stud and make it fit even tighter. With a little practice, this technique can separate all of the tapered joints used in the steering system in under a minute. Here are a few pics of the technique. If it doesn't work for you within 3-4 good healthy/solid/hard whacks, stop swinging the hammer like a girl.
Hit it with yer purse!!
krisbman is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 07-09-2014, 09:11 PM   #16
Supporting Member

WF Supporting Member
 
Holton345's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Yazoo City, MS
Posts: 1,454
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford View Post
... stop swinging the hammer like a girl.
Yeah, it took me about eight each. I am so ashamed... ;-)

__________________
Wade

2003 Shale Green TJ Sport
2013 Black JK Sport S

The terms "PO" and POS" are interchangeable when referring to the guy who used to own my TJ.
Holton345 is online now   Quote Quick Reply
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Jeep Wrangler Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off




Download our Mobile App

» Featured Product

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 12:33 PM.



Jeep®, Wrangler, Liberty, Wagoneer, Cherokee, and Grand Cherokee are copyrighted and trademarked to Chrysler Motors LLC.
Wranglerforum.com is not in any way associated with the Chrysler Motors LLC