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Old 02-12-2012, 12:06 PM   #1
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Nice Looking TJ, But They Forgot 1 Thing...


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Old 02-12-2012, 12:08 PM   #2
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how can u put on 35s with no lift?

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Old 02-12-2012, 12:11 PM   #3
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I realize it's a fastback style soft top but doesn't it look a little funny at the rear window as well?
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Old 02-12-2012, 12:11 PM   #4
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Quote:
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how can u put on 35s with no lift?
Those Hi line fenders will fit em. Also they're in Houston, they won't be flexing on anything anytime soon.
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Old 02-12-2012, 12:11 PM   #5
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So...he rubs on everything, needed 4" wheels spacers, and has a turning radius comparable to a school bus now? Just my guess...
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Old 02-12-2012, 12:13 PM   #6
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You can't even Drive that thing in a Straight Line.

Just from Giving it Gas, the Ass is gonna Squat and Rub on the Flares.
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Old 02-12-2012, 12:15 PM   #7
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Remove rear flares and add your own lift. And she'll be gorgeous. I would toss and ome hd springs and shocks and the fun stuff and new rear flares and be done.
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Old 02-12-2012, 12:17 PM   #8
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If they Spent the Money and Time on the Front Flares, why no do the Rear?

Just doesn't seem Right.
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Old 02-12-2012, 12:20 PM   #9
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Aside from the height, that thing is quite underbuilt for 35's.
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Old 02-12-2012, 12:26 PM   #10
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It Looks like it has Adjustable LCA's, some kind of Aftermarket Trans Skid Plate, Tank Skid, Diff Cover (Re-geared?).

It has too much stuff that it doesn't make sense that it doesn't even have a BB.
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Old 02-12-2012, 12:34 PM   #11
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Well, despite all that it lacks, it at least has the 4x4 trail rated decal....doesn't that mean that I can take it anywhere I want without worrying about axles, gears, or zero ability for the axles to articulate? Unreal....
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Old 02-12-2012, 02:35 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Imped
Aside from the height, that thing is quite underbuilt for 35's.
Not for cruising to the mall...
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Old 02-12-2012, 02:47 PM   #13
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That makes me sad.
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Old 02-12-2012, 03:00 PM   #14
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Remove rear flares and add your own lift. And she'll be gorgeous. I would toss and ome hd springs and shocks and the fun stuff and new rear flares and be done.
First and foremost, you got to be able to drive it home. Maybe get it home on the back of a flat bed truck?
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Old 02-12-2012, 03:10 PM   #15
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I'm ashamed to say I live near Houston. I should go and check it out just to laugh at em But to each their own I guess.
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Old 02-12-2012, 03:12 PM   #16
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It has been on there for a while. Last Time it was on there it said it had a "4 to 6 Lift". Well, which one is it? A 4" or 6"?

I Bet someone went to Look at it and told them there isn't a Lift on it.
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Old 02-12-2012, 03:22 PM   #17
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I will say if they drop the price, I would buy it and put a 4" on it and call it a day. Those rear Bushwhackers are fugly though. I can't wait to get rid of mine.
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Old 02-12-2012, 03:23 PM   #18
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They also have a Nice Looking LJ. It's in their other Items.

By the Looks of the Cars they got For Sale, I'd say they all come from Repo Auctions.
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Old 02-12-2012, 03:46 PM   #19
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... and has a turning radius comparable to a school bus now? Just my guess...
Just curious, but wouldn't this be dictated (almost solely) by the offset of the wheels, and not really have anything to do with how much it is (or isn't) lifted?

I had someone come into my shop to get a CD player that had a bone stock TJ, except it had 32x11x15 BFG ATs on it, and they rubbed at full lock. When turning left, the front tire rubbed on the LCA, and it seemed as though even if you lifted it up a fairly decent amount (2 or 3 inches) that it would have the same problem.

Anyways, I plan on doing 35s down the road and would like to be able to retain my turning radius, so i'm just trying to make sure I understand things correctly.
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Old 02-12-2012, 03:56 PM   #20
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Also (and i'll probably get flamed for this, but i'm really just curious), I would assume that we are talking mostly about the rear wheel wells here? Those are obviously rediculous, seeing as the flares are damn near touching the tire.

However, I would think that the front setup this thing has would probably function ok? Granted they would probably need to keep the swaybar connected. The stock suspension doesn't give you tons of uptravel before you hit the bumpstop, so if you aren't articulating the axle a ton (i.e. keep the swaybar connected), it seems like there might actually be enough clearance in the front.

Again I'm just curious, so hopefully I can get some flame-free insight

In other news, can anyone tell if thats a dana 35 in the rear? Normally I know my axles, but having that aftermarket diff cover on there is throwing me off.
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Old 02-12-2012, 03:59 PM   #21
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Also (and i'll probably get flamed for this, but i'm really just curious), I would assume that we are talking mostly about the rear wheel wells here? Those are obviously rediculous, seeing as the flares are damn near touching the tire.

However, I would think that the front setup this thing has would probably function ok? Granted they would probably need to keep the swaybar connected. The stock suspension doesn't give you tons of uptravel before you hit the bumpstop, so if you aren't articulating the axle a ton (i.e. keep the swaybar connected), it seems like there might actually be enough clearance in the front.

Again I'm just curious, so hopefully I can get some flame-free insight

In other news, can anyone tell if thats a dana 35 in the rear? Normally I know my axles, but having that aftermarket diff cover on there is throwing me off.
Haha, good Question.

Looks like a Grenade to me! Dana 35.
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Old 02-12-2012, 06:07 PM   #22
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I love the look of fat tires on a low 4x4.. Not that extreme though.. I like 2.5" and 33's
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Old 02-12-2012, 08:07 PM   #23
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Just curious, but wouldn't this be dictated (almost solely) by the offset of the wheels, and not really have anything to do with how much it is (or isn't) lifted?

I had someone come into my shop to get a CD player that had a bone stock TJ, except it had 32x11x15 BFG ATs on it, and they rubbed at full lock. When turning left, the front tire rubbed on the LCA, and it seemed as though even if you lifted it up a fairly decent amount (2 or 3 inches) that it would have the same problem.

Anyways, I plan on doing 35s down the road and would like to be able to retain my turning radius, so i'm just trying to make sure I understand things correctly.
Anybody have any insight on this? I'd really like to get some input from a few who have "been there done that"
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Old 02-12-2012, 08:25 PM   #24
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Anybody have any insight on this? I'd really like to get some input from a few who have "been there done that"
Yes, wheel backspacing is the main function in turning radius. There are other less obvious (and more complex to explain) factors but by the looks of it, that guy's sitting at about 4" of backspacing, which is great for a 12.50 tire and won't limit the turning radius, given the axle is centered and it's set up correctly.
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Old 02-13-2012, 12:54 AM   #25
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Yes, wheel backspacing is the main function in turning radius. There are other less obvious (and more complex to explain) factors but by the looks of it, that guy's sitting at about 4" of backspacing, which is great for a 12.50 tire and won't limit the turning radius, given the axle is centered and it's set up correctly.
Thank you for the insight, I very much appreciate it!

I saw you comment that for being on 35s, it is under built in other areas. I'm just wondering what other things caught your eye? I noticed that it has a Dana 35 out back, which is probably not a good ideas for tires that large. What other things caught your eye that are lacking? (again, thanks for taking time to answer these questions for me - its great that we have some veteran jeepers like yourself that are willing to help grow my knowledge pool )
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Old 02-13-2012, 08:40 AM   #26
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its a dana 35, the even spaced oval shape gives it away i think. also an 05 with drums...i thought d44 after 03 were disks. nice and clean but no lift boggles me....its like taking a crap and not wiping...you went through all the trouble and the job is almost done, only to leave out a important part.
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Old 02-13-2012, 09:16 AM   #27
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Meh. Looks kinda funny but think someone just went bolt-on crazy. Wouldnt take hardly any effort to fix it up to your own design. Most of the puzzle pieces are there...just got to remove what ya dont like...and add what ya want.
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Old 02-13-2012, 11:47 AM   #28
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Could be another case of someone pulling their expensive axles and suspension off before selling and swaping in something cheap. If that is the case, it probably has 3.07 diffs!
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Old 02-13-2012, 12:04 PM   #29
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Thank you for the insight, I very much appreciate it!

I saw you comment that for being on 35s, it is under built in other areas. I'm just wondering what other things caught your eye? I noticed that it has a Dana 35 out back, which is probably not a good ideas for tires that large. What other things caught your eye that are lacking? (again, thanks for taking time to answer these questions for me - its great that we have some veteran jeepers like yourself that are willing to help grow my knowledge pool )
Here's how I view 35" tires. I built my rig to support them on and off the road with absolutely no issues at all because I value durability, quality, and stability over anything else. There is way, way more that goes into doing that than just having enough clearance for tires. I enjoy very difficult trails and rocks--I'm on 35's because I enjoy trails that require 35's. Trails that require 35's to make it from start to finish are hard on everything...

If you bash the stock tie rod onto a boulder, it'll fold. If you bind up the tires against rocks and go to turn, the tie rod could fold (among several other outcomes). If you come down on a rock on a stock control arm, it could snap. The stock belly pan hangs way too low but if I lift the rig high enough for that to matter, I've far overlooked my original goal of stability. If I'm articulating the axles with 12" travel shocks and am using all of that travel, the stock arms and the bushings at the ends will be screaming for help. If I'm driving down the highway at 80mph and have to slam on my brakes, will each corner (weighing in at 90 lbs and 35" tall) be able to stop in time? On that subject, can my steering and suspension even keep my now-unbalanced 35" tires from wobbling? Beef is required. The last thing I want to do is break anything since I drive it to and from the trail and normally to work the next day. Axle shafts, u joints, ring and pinion gears, a tweaked tie rod, a bent control arm or control arm mount, etc. All of that has to be taken into account when wheeling where 35's are needed. Notice I didn't even mention the ~$1,000 spent on body armor or the several thousand dollars spent on the more obscure items, like gears.

As far as I'm concerned, that's a stock TJ on 35's. Aside from not having the room for the tires to move, it doesn't have the parts to go where 35's are needed.
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Old 02-13-2012, 12:26 PM   #30
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If they Spent the Money and Time on the Front Flares, why no do the Rear?

Just doesn't seem Right.
Maybe for the same reason you Capitalize random Words?






















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