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Old 03-16-2012, 07:23 PM   #1
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No running/parking lights

97 wrangler tj with i6

right now it keeps blowing fuses when i turn on the running/parking lights. Head lights, turn signals and hazard lights all work fine.

Here is what i have done so far.
1. Discounted front lights to see if there is a short/problem with the rear lights.
2. Discounted rear lights to see if there is a short/problem with the front lights
3. Replaced the multi function light switch with a new one.
4. Been through the wiring harness the best i can to see if there is any exposed bare wires...none that i can see.

Also the instrument panel is not lighting up...are these to issues connected by chance?

Help!! Can anyone point me in the next direction to resolve my issue.

Thanks in advance.

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Old 03-16-2012, 08:57 PM   #2
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Which fuse are you blowing? Fuse 1? Where are you disconnecting the front/back lights to test?

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Old 03-16-2012, 10:33 PM   #3
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Which fuse are you blowing? Fuse 1? Where are you disconnecting the front/back lights to test?
Yes fuse 1 its a 20amp fuse. I disconnected the plug for the rear lights under the dash and the front lights at the plug near the firewall under the brake master cylinder.
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Old 03-16-2012, 10:39 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by pwcracr501

Yes fuse 1 its a 20amp fuse. I disconnected the plug for the rear lights under the dash and the front lights at the plug near the firewall under the brake master cylinder.
If you have the stock tail lights remove the lense and fully inspect the wires and connections and light socket. I had the same problem on a Yj and the problem was corrosion in the tail light housing. Hopes this helps.
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Old 03-16-2012, 10:49 PM   #5
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OK now pull fuse 12 from the fuse block & see if the short goes away. That is for the cluster lights & other switch lights that get dimmed from the light switch.

I see that is a 5 amp so it shouldn't be there but check.
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Old 03-16-2012, 11:13 PM   #6
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You can try disconnecting both of the connectors you already did & pull the 12 fuse (all at the same time) & try that If still shorted you should pull the connector (black) at the switch. If that doesn't do it then it has to be in the wire from the fuse block to the switch.

Also there is a connector (yellow) just on the inside of the firewall before going to the one under the master cylinder that you can try to make sure it isn't where it goes through the firewall.
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Old 03-17-2012, 02:44 PM   #7
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You can try disconnecting both of the connectors you already did & pull the 12 fuse (all at the same time) & try that If still shorted you should pull the connector (black) at the switch. If that doesn't do it then it has to be in the wire from the fuse block to the switch.

Also there is a connector (yellow) just on the inside of the firewall before going to the one under the master cylinder that you can try to make sure it isn't where it goes through the firewall.
Ok thanks for the input. I'll try this afternoon and see what I get.....once I know I'll repost
Thanks again!
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Old 03-17-2012, 03:22 PM   #8
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Here is a question. Is the cigarette lighter on the same fuse? If so could the be the root of the problem?
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Old 03-17-2012, 04:37 PM   #9
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No I believe the lighter is on fuse 5 in the PDC & is powered through the accessory relay. The relay is controlled from the ignition switch & fuse 3, PDC.

If you don't have a manual with wiring diagrams go here to View them. For '97TJ go to the wiring section. The cluster info in on about page 92, interior lighting p 120, front lighting p 135, rear lighting p 140. The other section you might need is the connector location section (separate selection).

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Old 03-17-2012, 04:42 PM   #10
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OK now pull fuse 12 from the fuse block & see if the short goes away. That is for the cluster lights & other switch lights that get dimmed from the light switch.

I see that is a 5 amp so it shouldn't be there but check.
so I pulled fuse 12 (5 amp fuse) from the fuse block...tried the light switch...still the same issue..fuse blew
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Old 03-17-2012, 05:54 PM   #11
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If you unplug the 2 connectors & the 12 fuse it pretty much isolates it to the under dash area. Unplug the switch to further isolate it.
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Old 03-17-2012, 07:31 PM   #12
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If you unplug the 2 connectors & the 12 fuse it pretty much isolates it to the under dash area. Unplug the switch to further isolate it.
First let me start by saying thanks for all the advice you are giving...it is greatly appreciated!!

Question, if I discount the switch will I be able to get the fuse to blow??...it only snaps when I pull on the parking lights...how do I test the theory of the issue being under the dash if the switch is disconnected?

Sounds like to me if I have the plug for the front lights unplugged, the plug for the rear lights unplugged and the #12 fuse pulled then the issue is under the dash…is that correct?

Am I correct in this thought process?
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Old 03-17-2012, 09:37 PM   #13
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Yes, you are right it has to be after the switch & before everything that is disconnected. Go to the link I gave you & go to page 25 of the pin outs section. See C-205, that is the headlight switch connector diagram. The #4 is the B+ feed from fuse 1. With the connector disconnected from the switch you can test which wire leaving it has the short. Make a jumper wire & jump from 4 to 1 & check for short. Then jump 4 to 9 & check. If both are good you may have an internal short in the switch. The dome light part of the switch grounds that circuit to turn them on & if those contacts are connecting with the park light contacts then that could be causing the short. My '05 is different so I don't know exactly how yours works other than looking at the diagrams but I think that is possible as I look at this. If you go to the switch see if the 3 terminal grounds (through the switch body it looks like) when in the dome light position. Then see if the 4 terminal is grounded when in the park light position. If 4 is grounded then you need a new switch.

In case you can't get the link here is the lay out for the switch: 4=tan/black, 1=tan,9=black/yellow, & 3=yellow
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Old 03-17-2012, 10:08 PM   #14
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have you swapped the head unit? there is an illumination/dimmer wire on the factory wire harness, if you swapped the radio and didnt tape them back, you get 12vdc when you pull parking lights. the aftermarket harness will have them orange or org/white. make sure they are taped back. they'll ground out when you pull the light switch out. second thing to check is aftermarket alarm, if you have one, the alarm will have a fused white wire running to your parking lights, ive seen alarms causing this as well.
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Old 03-17-2012, 11:25 PM   #15
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Looks like I have my work cut out for me...hopefully the rain will hold off for a bit tomorrow...that way I can get out and work on it.

thanks Again!!
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Old 03-17-2012, 11:52 PM   #16
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The radio orange wire is after the 12 fuse so not a factor when the fuse is out. Alarm & any aftermarket wiring is always a possibility.
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Old 03-18-2012, 12:22 AM   #17
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so just to be clear, if you remove that particular fuse and have say a factory radio you have no dimmer control or illumination @ night on the radio?
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Old 03-18-2012, 03:08 PM   #18
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Yes, I would say so. That is the same part of the circuit that goes to the cluster lights & some of the switch lights from the dimmer control in the HL switch.
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Old 03-18-2012, 05:16 PM   #19
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Yes, you are right it has to be after the switch & before everything that is disconnected. Go to the link I gave you & go to page 25 of the pin outs section. See C-205, that is the headlight switch connector diagram. The #4 is the B+ feed from fuse 1. With the connector disconnected from the switch you can test which wire leaving it has the short. Make a jumper wire & jump from 4 to 1 & check for short. Then jump 4 to 9 & check. If both are good you may have an internal short in the switch. The dome light part of the switch grounds that circuit to turn them on & if those contacts are connecting with the park light contacts then that could be causing the short. My '05 is different so I don't know exactly how yours works other than looking at the diagrams but I think that is possible as I look at this. If you go to the switch see if the 3 terminal grounds (through the switch body it looks like) when in the dome light position. Then see if the 4 terminal is grounded when in the park light position. If 4 is grounded then you need a new switch.

In case you can't get the link here is the lay out for the switch: 4=tan/black, 1=tan,9=black/yellow, & 3=yellow

UPDATE: So I jumped between wires like it said above and I could not get it to duplicate the problem or blow the fuse. I used a test light and the light came on each time except for when I jumped from 4 to 3. What I did next was elimante the Yellow wire #3 from the plug. Plugged back into the switch gave it a pull and it blew the fuse again. The switch is brand new just put it in the day before yesterday thinking that was the problem...so whats next??
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Old 03-18-2012, 07:23 PM   #20
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OK so if you reconnect the connectors except to the switch & put the 12 fuse back in & jump 4 to 1 & put in fuse 1 - the cluster lights (etc) come on & fuse is OK? Then jump 4 to 9 with fuse 1 in & the parking lights come on & fuse OK?
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Old 03-18-2012, 07:26 PM   #21
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To check one more thing, jump 4 to 2, the headlights should come on. Not really on fuse 1 but check.
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Old 03-18-2012, 08:53 PM   #22
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OK so if you reconnect the connectors except to the switch & put the 12 fuse back in & jump 4 to 1 & put in fuse 1 - the cluster lights (etc) come on & fuse is OK? Then jump 4 to 9 with fuse 1 in & the parking lights come on & fuse OK?
I did not notice if the lights came on when I jumped the wires...it was bright out today and I was focusing on the fuse if it would blow or not...the light in the circuit test did though could defiantly tell there was a current. I will do it again and see if the lights or panel lights up.
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Old 03-18-2012, 10:06 PM   #23
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If neither the 1 or 9 connections with 4 cause the fuse to blow, check to make sure the 4 terminal on the switch is not grounding in any switch position (with the connector off).

BTW, is your headlight switch in the MF switch? I presume it is which makes it like the '98s. The circuit is pretty much the same as with the push-pull switch from earlier yrs.
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Old 03-19-2012, 09:19 AM   #24
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I'll take a look once I get off work this afternoon and jump those wires again. My switch is a pull push next to the steering column. 97 wrangler Tj sport
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Old 03-19-2012, 03:17 PM   #25
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OK on the switch. I think there are some '97s with the later type (or not?) & you said you replaced it & in post #1 you mentioned replacing the MF light switch & usually the MFS refers to the ones on the column.

BTW where are you located?
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Old 03-19-2012, 09:33 PM   #26
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OK on the switch. I think there are some '97s with the later type (or not?) & you said you replaced it & in post #1 you mentioned replacing the MF light switch & usually the MFS refers to the ones on the column.

BTW where are you located?
my mistake...I figured it was a MFS regardless of wether its on the dash or column..makes sense though...the wiper switch is on the column and is also called a MFS

I'm located in San Diego
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Old 03-19-2012, 10:05 PM   #27
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OK just clarifying. I think the p-p switch grounds to the dash & wonder if that is causing the short. If the short isn't from 1 or 9 terminals you can try removing the switch from the dash & reconnecting the connector & everything else & see if the fuse blows then. Also another thought is what if you pull the switch to the headlight position then put the fuse in, does it blow then?
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Old 03-20-2012, 10:41 PM   #28
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UPDATE: Ok problem resolved!! As stated I just bought this jeep and this was an underlying issue that I did not catch while test driving. Lesson to myself is to test drive a vehicle at night (I never checked the lights during the day test drive). So here is the details...who ever owned it before me wired the stereo in wrong, they had a ground wire and power wire crossed up and was using the power source wire for the parking lights to power the stereo. Since it was crossed up it was causing the parking lights to short out and blow the fuse. Anyways all is well now and everything works as it should.

I would like to thank everyone who had some advice for me....For RUBI 4 MY MRS big thanks to you!!! If our paths ever cross I owe you a cold one!!
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Old 03-21-2012, 01:05 AM   #29
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Why is it always the aftermarket add-ons that get us in trouble? Can't anticipate them. Anyway glad you found it. If you are up to the O.C. sometime PM me.
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Old 03-21-2012, 03:57 AM   #30
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That is for the cluster lights & other switch lights that get dimmed from the light switch.


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