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Old 01-01-2008, 10:45 PM   #1
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NOOb questions

So ive always thought locking hubs locked the diff I guess now i understand that thats not the case. I have been wheeling quite a bit (in a 2000 stock TJ (Its my fathers and im about to purchase it)) and most of the time we go out we get stuck due to the fact that one or more tires lose traction. Just recently we learned the e-brake tequnique and it really seems to help. Would a diff locker eliminate the need for using the e-brake? What types of diff lockers are out there and what are the pro/con/cost. Also, If you were in my situation, and on a budget, what mods would you make first to make the most capable off road machine.

My thoughts were:

1. Tires

1.5. high lift jack

2. Diff locker

3. suspension lift

I have always been into off roading and currently have two r/c crawlers. Im looking to step it up. Let me know if im on the right track.

Thanks for any help.

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Old 01-01-2008, 11:05 PM   #2
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Pulling on the e-brake is just loading the clutches in the limited slip diff. Loading the clutches allows them to "lock" and put power to both wheels as if you were driving in a straight line.

There are a couple of different types of lockers depend on how drivable you want your TJ to remain.

Quote:
1: Selectable
: These allow you to engage and disengage the locker when needed allowing power to be sent to each wheel evenly.
: Selectable lockers are the most expensive, but well worth it if you vehicle is a daily driver.

2: Auto Locker
: These will automatically lock and unlock depending on driving conditions. While going around turns they will make a clicking noise which is them unlocking and allowing the two wheels to turn differently. But when power(gas pedal) is applied, they lock up and put all power to both wheels.
: Auto Lockers are about the cheapest and more commonly used on trail rigs.

3: Spool
: This replaces everything and completely locks up the differential. This is 100% power 100% of the time. This is not recommended for a street driven vehicle.
: Spools are cheap, but only for the hard core rigs.
On to the lift and stuff.... what size tires do you want to run? Or what type of wheeling are you going to be doing?

I ask this because there are hundreds of ways to set up your Jeep depending on requirements and costs.

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Old 01-01-2008, 11:36 PM   #3
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I want to eventually go up to 35s. I want to be able to run over or through whatever i come across. I live in south alabama so there are not many rocks but i still want as much useable articulation as possible. Basically i want to build the most capable jeep i can and not hate myself when im on the road (it will be daily driven). I would like to keep my lift under 2k if possible but if for a little more i could get something alot nicer i may consider it. I would prefer to keep the lift under 1k if possible as i could do it sooner. If theres no big performance difference between a 1k and a 2k kit then i would definitely go with the cheaper one.
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Old 01-02-2008, 12:29 AM   #4
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Well... for 35" tires, your looking at a minimum 4.5-5" lift. And in that case, a long arm would probably be best. But its not just the lift. You'll also be needing a slip yoke eliminator for the transfer case and a cv style rear driveshaft. In other words, budget and TJ don't go together.

With the lift, tires, wheels and everything.... it'll be more like $4-5k
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Old 01-02-2008, 12:38 AM   #5
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I understand i cant lift it for 1-2k. The 1-2k was for the lift only. I was noticing most of the lift kits come with a transfercase lowering kit. Does this also lower the skid plate? if so are there 4" and 5" lift kits that do not lower the transfer case?

I was just looking at the origonal window sticker for the jeep. What does the trac-lok differental do? Is it front, rear, middle, or all diffs?
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Old 01-02-2008, 01:09 AM   #6
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Yes there are, some kits like that, but again, you'd need a slip yoke eliminator and cv driveshaft to avoid lowering the transfercase.
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Old 01-02-2008, 02:37 AM   #7
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Since ill need a slip yoke eliminator and cv drive shafts to be able to install a 4" or 5" lift anyway I figure it would be better to get a kit that does not drop the transfer case if one were available. Are there any to be had for less than 2K?.... 1k? I really appreciate all of the help
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Old 01-02-2008, 02:34 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by King of Beers View Post
Since ill need a slip yoke eliminator and cv drive shafts to be able to install a 4" or 5" lift anyway I figure it would be better to get a kit that does not drop the transfer case if one were available. Are there any to be had for less than 2K?.... 1k? I really appreciate all of the help
If you are going to be doing the SYE then you just don't need to worry about any TCase lowering that would be included in any kit you would purchase. Most Long Arm suspension systems actually replace the stock belly pan with a new piece that integrates the upper and lower control arm mounts into it. Any short arm setup will leave the stock pan in place, but there are aftermarket ones that can greatly increase your break over and raise the pan up out of your way.

This sport is just like any of your R/C stuff. There are different parts made for every piece, you just have to decide what's most important to you and go in that direction.

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