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Old 02-25-2013, 09:37 PM   #31
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Depends on what your looking for. If its o2 sensors, rockauto.com. Anything else, find the part number required and punch it into google search/shopping. This is a great way to see who offers the part at the best price.

Oh ok. Great so will it tell me that they are original and genuine parts there?

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Old 02-25-2013, 10:54 PM   #32
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Oh ok. Great so will it tell me that they are original and genuine parts there?
Well from what I've researched, NGK was subcontracted to manufacture factory o2 sensors for my year (2000) and so on. Therefore, anything bought from rockauto being "NTK" is NGK's brand and will be exact OEM replacements.

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Old 02-25-2013, 11:44 PM   #33
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From what I've read, Dealer parts are best, anything but Bosch. I wouldn't hesitate to use NGK.
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Old 02-26-2013, 03:52 PM   #34
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Question 02 sensor and misfires

Hello everyone, I have a problem with my 06 TJ , 6.0, automatic, 80k miles. Im hoping your feedbacks can help me with:
Heres the problem: Check engine light goes on and off; but for the past 6 months or so it is primarily on all the time. The codes are for multiple cylinder misfire. It happens around the point when I'm at 3000 rpm or around 65-70 mph. I know that it will run fine at a speed of 60-65mph on cruise (most of the time **Also, would I be okay driving a 5 hour trip with it in this condition?

I have had a shop look at it and about $200 later the only thing he said was that the computer's plugs were loose so he put a zip-tie around them. The light still came back on 20 mins down the road. Further research says maybe a bad distributer? Crankshaft position sensor? (Has anyone replaced theyre fuel filter, is that common?) 02 sensor? Computer? Kinda dont know where to go next?? Thanks for your advice...
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Old 02-28-2013, 11:24 PM   #35
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Quick question? Doesn anyone know the location of Upstream o2 sensor bank 1 sensor 2.? Thats where I was told the O2 sensor.went for.my wrangler 1999 tj/s (its on the "passanger" side) so.i can clear the check engine light.. The code was P0130.
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Old 03-01-2013, 01:04 AM   #36
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Bank 1 sensor 2 = O2 sensor behind the cat for cyl 1,2,3. The upstream sensor is the one above the cat.
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Old 03-06-2013, 11:42 PM   #37
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I recently got the p0138 code. How bad is it to drive with this for a while till I get the money for the part? Day after engine light came on and pulling codes it went off for few days then came back on has happened two times now I think. Could it be possible lose wiring or the 02 sensor is just slowly going out ?
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Old 03-07-2013, 03:08 AM   #38
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I recently got the p0138 code. How bad is it to drive with this for a while till I get the money for the part? Day after engine light came on and pulling codes it went off for few days then came back on has happened two times now I think. Could it be possible lose wiring or the 02 sensor is just slowly going out ?
http://www.obd-codes.com/p013

Seems like it could be a faulty o2 sensor. Have you done any offroading in mud or water before the light came on?
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Old 03-07-2013, 08:02 AM   #39
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Ya I sank it in some water back in November
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Old 03-07-2013, 11:08 AM   #40
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From what I've been reading from other threads an a other site it says this sensor causes excess smoke from exhaust and indirectly higher fuel consumption and that the light is on from a fuse being blown? I have not noticed and smoke from exhaust or increase in fuel consumption.
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Old 03-23-2013, 10:19 PM   #41
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NGK sensors cheap online

I'm replacing the four O2 sensors on my 2000 XJ 4.0 I6... I got the P0138 code, and started running rough, and without thinking, I bought the non-Cali sensors (just the 2) from Amazon. I got up under the car and couldn't find the rear sensor behind the cc... Then I found out I had the cali condfiguration with 3 cc's.

Fortunately, the non-Cali's fit the rear pipe of the Cali. I just need two more sensors.

Just to be sure, I used the part finder on the NGK/NTK website to get the part numbers. I priced them at Amazon (35-40 each). I priced them at Advance Auto and they were like 70.

Advance price matches Amazon in store. Great, now I can get my sensors cheap tomorrow morning and not wait on shipping.

I did the rear downstream sensor this afternoon. It was easy - took about 10 minutes with a 10" adjustable wrench. The front downstream is seized... gonna have to get it hot or use a socket. The top two sensors look like they are really hard to get to. It's awful cramped up in there. I wish I'd had this done when the engine was out in October. Code came up at 112K miles.
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Old 03-23-2013, 11:16 PM   #42
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I'm replacing the four O2 sensors on my 2000 XJ 4.0 I6... I got the P0138 code, and started running rough, and without thinking, I bought the non-Cali sensors (just the 2) from Amazon. I got up under the car and couldn't find the rear sensor behind the cc... Then I found out I had the cali condfiguration with 3 cc's.

Fortunately, the non-Cali's fit the rear pipe of the Cali. I just need two more sensors.

Just to be sure, I used the part finder on the NGK/NTK website to get the part numbers. I priced them at Amazon (35-40 each). I priced them at Advance Auto and they were like 70.

Advance price matches Amazon in store. Great, now I can get my sensors cheap tomorrow morning and not wait on shipping.

I did the rear downstream sensor this afternoon. It was easy - took about 10 minutes with a 10" adjustable wrench. The front downstream is seized... gonna have to get it hot or use a socket. The top two sensors look like they are really hard to get to. It's awful cramped up in there. I wish I'd had this done when the engine was out in October. Code came up at 112K miles.
I got to the top one near the firewall from underneath. You have to stick your hand up there just right but it's a breeze. I did it in 5 minutes.
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Old 03-28-2013, 04:03 PM   #43
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I have not been able to replace o2 sensor yet, but took a road trip and was getting about 19mpg with engine light on. It went off after filling up. Took another trip to same place with engine light off doing same speed even topped fluids off made sure tire pressure was right all around I got ~13mpg this go around. I don't understand...
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Old 03-28-2013, 04:22 PM   #44
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You ECU could be in an open loop causing a rich fuel mixture. eBay has new upstream Bosh Oxygen sensors for $25 delivered , worth checking out.
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Old 03-28-2013, 04:30 PM   #45
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Hopefully I can get one next pay check, from other threads people say bosh parts don't agree with jeeps the ntk are better?
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Old 03-28-2013, 05:08 PM   #46
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But even if the ECU is stuck In loop when the light is off which I'm assuming the o2 sensor is working during that point, how would a new one get it out of the loop?
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Old 03-29-2013, 01:51 AM   #47
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Oh ok. Great so will it tell me that they are original and genuine parts there?
Just changed my upstream. Got it from the dealer, it was Ntk.
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Old 03-29-2013, 03:33 AM   #48
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I had a different O2 code, I will have to dig up the number when i get home. But the code printout said "Heater Condition sensor 2". The weird thing is the light was on for 2 days, and then went away before I had a chance to start troubleshooting. It has been a few days now and it hasn't come back. If it's the downsteam sensor, either the sensor is bad or the cat is bad right? But if the cat was bad then the CEL wouldn't just go away you would think. Loose connection on the downstream sensor maybe?

Somebody mentioned the crank shaft sensor, can that be related in any way? The PO said he heard a ticking noise (i have yet to hear it myself yet) and the mechanic said it was the crank shaft sensor.
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Old 04-10-2013, 07:29 AM   #49
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I'm about to change my O2 sensor. The CEL was off, I have read that disconnecting battery for like 30 minutes will wipe code is that correct or do I have to take to auto store and have them wipe it?
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Old 04-10-2013, 09:06 AM   #50
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I am not sure how long to disconnect the battery exactly, but it will clear the codes. I just took mine to advance auto. they are not allowed to clear it for you, but you can check out the reader from them and do it yourself. Not very difficult. Plug it into the OBD2 port, turn your key to accessory, and follow the menu's.
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Old 04-10-2013, 11:11 AM   #51
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I'm about to change my O2 sensor. The CEL was off, I have read that disconnecting battery for like 30 minutes will wipe code is that correct or do I have to take to auto store and have them wipe it?
1 minute is enough time for the code to clear.
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Old 04-10-2013, 05:49 PM   #52
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Ok thanks!
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Old 04-10-2013, 05:50 PM   #53
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Ok thank you
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Old 04-10-2013, 05:51 PM   #54
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Thanks for info. Was about to just leave it over night from what I've read somewhere else
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Old 04-12-2013, 04:40 PM   #55
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Ran into a little snag, how did y'all change the sensor after the cat? I can't seem to get the wrench to fit over the ridges on the sensor with the space that is given between the skid plate and the muffler?
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Old 04-12-2013, 04:58 PM   #56
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Send a message via Yahoo to ChaddG
Please tell me,

-Were there any pre-failure signs?
-Were you getting more than 13 mpg
-What are you getting now?
-Did your fuel economy increase?
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Old 04-12-2013, 06:04 PM   #57
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I ended up having to put an adjustable wrench on it. If you happen to have an open end that is the right size, this would be preferable to an adjustable.

Also you should be able to get a specialized wrench at autozone or something. It looks like a closed end wrench, but with a slot in the end so you can slide it over the wires.

Either way though, you might save yourself some trouble by spraying some break free on it first and letting it soak for a while before you try to unscrew it. Those things get seized up and take a lot of force to get them going, last thing you want to do is break it.
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Old 04-13-2013, 07:18 AM   #58
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I ended up having to put an adjustable wrench on it. If you happen to have an open end that is the right size, this would be preferable to an adjustable.

Also you should be able to get a specialized wrench at autozone or something. It looks like a closed end wrench, but with a slot in the end so you can slide it over the wires.

Either way though, you might save yourself some trouble by spraying some break free on it first and letting it soak for a while before you try to unscrew it. Those things get seized up and take a lot of force to get them going, last thing you want to do is break it.
Are you referring to the socket that they sell for O2 sensors? I was trying not to spend more money and have read they bend because they sometimes require some good torque to undo. And ya I have the right sized opened wrench 7/8. It'll fit from the top but there's no room to turn it from the top. I might have to get the socket if its the only other option
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Old 04-13-2013, 07:50 AM   #59
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I went from the bottom. You were talking about downstream sensors right? Crawl under behind the front tire and look up and you can see both downstream sensors.

The one closest to you is Bank 2, Sensor 2. Closest to front bumper is bank 1, sensor 2.

I had to change bank 2 sensor 2. It was still tight. I could only get 1/4 turn at a time, if that, but eventually it came loose.

Haven't tried to get at bank 1 sensor 2 yet, but I would think go underneath in front of the front tire. It was more on the foreward side of the cat if I remember.
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Old 04-13-2013, 11:06 AM   #60
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Yes bank 1 sensor 2 is one I'm trying to replace but the wrench won't slide on the sensor with the space that is available to turn the wrench between the skid plate and the muffler

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