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Old 04-26-2013, 05:05 PM   #1
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Oil?

04 rubicon. Regular oil in 10w30. Can I run 5w40?

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Old 04-26-2013, 05:45 PM   #2
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Manual says 10W-30 normal driving and 5W-30 in very cold conditions. I mean I'm sure that oil would work, but might as well go with what the factory recommends for these engines.

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Old 04-26-2013, 08:38 PM   #3
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I live in 'mid Canada' - 50 in winter +35 in summer and everything in between. 10w30 in winter 5w30 in summer.... Have zero problems... My jeep is 8 years old and going strong!!
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Old 04-26-2013, 08:39 PM   #4
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What would 540 benefit?? I'm not an oil expert?!?
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Old 04-26-2013, 11:38 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kicker77 View Post
04 rubicon. Regular oil in 10w30. Can I run 5w40?
Stick with 30 weight but you can change to 5w if you want...it's a little thinner when the motor is cold.

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I live in 'mid Canada' - 50 in winter +35 in summer and everything in between. 10w30 in winter 5w30 in summer.... Have zero problems... My jeep is 8 years old and going strong!!
You should do the opposite...5w should be used in the winter and 10w in the summer. I use 10w year around but it only gets in the mid 20's here.
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Old 04-27-2013, 12:58 AM   #6
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Yea, he's got that twisted around.
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Old 04-28-2013, 02:27 AM   #7
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I've read the 4.0 l. Is based on German Diesel engines from the seventies and that the motor responds better with oil that are high in mineral count like zinc. Which is found in 5w40 synt
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Old 04-28-2013, 03:00 AM   #8
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I'd stick with what the factory has determined as the appropriate viscosity. If you're not seeing sub-zero temps, 10W-30.
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Old 04-28-2013, 05:03 AM   #9
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I live in 'mid Canada' - 50 in winter +35 in summer and everything in between. 10w30 in winter 5w30 in summer.... Have zero problems... My jeep is 8 years old and going strong!!
Yep,
That's totally bassackwards!!

5w30 in winter and 10w30 in summer.

@OP:
Stick with the 10w30 year around if it doesn't get ridiculously cold for extended periods. It does not hurt to switch between the 2 grades though.
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Old 04-28-2013, 05:42 AM   #10
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If it's really really hot in the summer or your engine has a ton of miles on it you can get away with running 5w40 or 10w40. Otherwise I'd stick to 10w30.
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Old 04-28-2013, 07:32 AM   #11
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I've read the 4.0 l. Is based on German Diesel engines from the seventies and that the motor responds better with oil that are high in mineral count like zinc. Which is found in 5w40 synt
When I bought an 01 Sahara new the salesman opened the hood "see that? That's Mercedes technology".

The engine is an American Motors Corporation design, with all successive engines such as the 2.5 and 4.0 being based on it. AMC bought Jeep in 70, and by 72 their engine was living in the CJ.

I took the bait.
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Old 04-28-2013, 09:11 AM   #12
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I've read the 4.0 l. Is based on German Diesel engines from the seventies and that the motor responds better with oil that are high in mineral count like zinc. Which is found in 5w40 synt
New environmental laws have limited Zinc dithiophosphate (ZDDP) levels to around 600ppm. Our I6 and I4 engines use flat topped lifters, meaning they need more lubrication (ZDDP is only one of the antiwear agents) than engines today. This lack of proper lubrication leads to lifter tick as the lifters begin to wear out. Its not this huge problem everyone makes it out to be, these engines can still last 200,000 miles + with regular oil changes.

If you are seriously concerned, you can buy racing oil that technically isn't meant to be ran on the streets, but will often have a much higher level of ZDDP. You can find charts that show the different levels of each ingredient in the oil through a Google search. The general consensus is these engines were made in the 70's when oil had around 1100ppm ZDDP, so that's what these engines need. Another reason why the ZDDP level is lower now is because the higher the level of ZDDP in the oil, the faster it will wear out your cats.

They do sell ZDDP concentrate in auto stores that you would add to the oil, but I personally wouldn't use it. By nearly doubling one level in the oil, it could throw others off and have some sort of negative effect on your engine. I have no tests to back this up, it just makes sense to me that we should let the oil chemists do their job.

And just for the record, its american
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/American_Motors
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Old 04-28-2013, 10:32 AM   #13
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New environmental laws have limited Zinc dithiophosphate (ZDDP) levels to around 600ppm. Our I6 and I4 engines use flat topped lifters, meaning they need more lubrication (ZDDP is only one of the antiwear agents) than engines today. This lack of proper lubrication leads to lifter tick as the lifters begin to wear out. Its not this huge problem everyone makes it out to be, these engines can still last 200,000 miles + with regular oil changes.

If you are seriously concerned, you can buy racing oil that technically isn't meant to be ran on the streets, but will often have a much higher level of ZDDP. You can find charts that show the different levels of each ingredient in the oil through a Google search. The general consensus is these engines were made in the 70's when oil had around 1100ppm ZDDP, so that's what these engines need. Another reason why the ZDDP level is lower now is because the higher the level of ZDDP in the oil, the faster it will wear out your cats.

They do sell ZDDP concentrate in auto stores that you would add to the oil, but I personally wouldn't use it. By nearly doubling one level in the oil, it could throw others off and have some sort of negative effect on your engine. I have no tests to back this up, it just makes sense to me that we should let the oil chemists do their job.

And just for the record, its american
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/American_Motors
Eastwood makes a ZDDP additive. I've been using it in all of the motors I've built through the years. My good friend builds 1000+ hp drag race engines for some very well known drivers and its all he uses when breaking in the motors on the dyno. Then he switches to straight synthetic but keep in mind he uses race oil which has a decent level of ZDDP along with other lubricating agents.

My Jeep no longer has the original motor because I did an LS swap but every Jeep motor I've had got the Eastwood additive or something comparable before they started making it. My 89 YJ had almost 200k when I sold it and it never ticked. I have an 03 Durango with the dreaded 4.7 motor. Every other person I know that has this motor has issues with valve train noise at start up. Mine has 110k and no noise....yet! Gets ZDDP and Napa synthetic every oil change.

Also Napa synthetic is really cheap for a full synthetic. When it's on sale it's only pennies more per quart than Dino oil and its Valvoline.

Just figured I'd add my two cents. Good luck.
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Old 04-28-2013, 10:38 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kicker77 View Post
I've read the 4.0 l. Is based on German Diesel engines from the seventies
What you read was wrong. As said above, the 4.0L and 2.5L engines are based on the AMC engine... totally American designed & built.

I would be on the bandwagon for additional ZDDP only IF the engine was running a higher performance cam & stiffer valve springs where the reduced level of ZDDP would indeed be a legitimate factor. But for a stock engine, that's not the case. If our stock engines needed additional ZDDP than what was still in the oils we use, we'd all be having multiple cam/lifter failures & we're not.

So far as I am concerned, all the hoopla on neeing more ZDDP some continue to screech about is the same as Chicken Little when he was screeching the sky is failling.



In my STRONGEST possible personal opinion, you only need additional amounts of ZDDP in our Jeep engines if your engine has been modified with aftermarket higher pressure valve springs & a high lift cam.

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