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Old 04-13-2011, 08:39 PM   #1
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Exclamation Oil Type

im just curious as to the type of oil to put in a 1999 jeep wrangler sport 4.0L. the guy who i bought it from put 10 40 in it and im just curious if that's truly the right type

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Old 04-13-2011, 08:48 PM   #2
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5/10w-30 is factory spec. Some people will say 40 weight oil is fine to, but I think you should stick to factory spec.

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Old 04-13-2011, 09:39 PM   #3
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ac99wrangler, welcome to the forum

I found this old thread, that might help, check it out:

http://www.wranglerforum.com/f5/new-...-0s-47517.html

I've always used 10w30 Mobil 1 synthetic in mine. I'm switching to 5w40 Mobil 1 TDT to try and raise my zddp levels for a bit. I'm at 73333 miles on my 2006. I also "waste" even more money by changing my filter midway between oil changes. I use Mobil 1 M1-301 or Motorcraft FL-1A oil filters for their larger size. I hear NAPA and WIX make good filters too.

Most important change often
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Old 04-13-2011, 11:45 PM   #4
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I had always used Mobil-1 Full Synthetic 5W-30 in the Liberty I had for the last two years. I am also using it in my Wranglenater. I too have always changed my filter half way through my oil life. Oil does not break down or loose it's viscosity, it only gets dirty.

If vehicles had some sort of oil separators on bored we would not have to change our oil, only add to it.
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Old 04-13-2011, 11:59 PM   #5
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Conventional oil will lose it's multi weight viscosity with time. So a 5w-30 will eventually turn into a plain 30 grade oil.

Synthetic however will virtually never lose it's multi weight viscosity. However all the off the shelf "synthetic" oils aren't true synthetics. They are make from group III base stock. In other words they are highly refined mineral oils. True synthetics are made from group IV base stocks. Amsoil is one the the few true synthetics.

Additives also wear out...

So no, some kind of "oil separator" will not work, there are many other factors to changing oil than just being dirty. I have also yet to see a filter that can filter out acidic blow by gases disolved into the oil...
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Old 04-14-2011, 08:04 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ac99wrangler View Post
im just curious as to the type of oil to put in a 1999 jeep wrangler sport 4.0L. the guy who i bought it from put 10 40 in it and im just curious if that's truly the right type
10W-30 is what the Owner Manual shows as the preferred oil for my 4.0L. Only mentions 5W-30 for below freezing winter use.

5W-30 is the preferred oil for the 2.4L four cylinder engine with 10W-30 mentioned for above freezing.

Very specific (and opposite) for some reason aren't they. They are also specific about oil change intervals.
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NOTE: Under no circumstances should oil change intervals exceed 6,000 miles (10 000 km) or 6 months whichever comes first.
There goes the main advantage of using synthetic oil (ie twice as long oil change intervals). Conventional oil works just fine anyway. Synthetic is great oil but too hyped up and expensive for my serious consideration.
Apparently Mobil had a below standard batch of Mobil 1 oil out there at one time. Makes one wonder what you're getting for those high prices.
JobbersWorld Online is an interesting read on who's synthetic oil is better than the other.
Quote:
Castrol Edge Claims 8X Better Wear Than Mobil 1
As reported here last July, first Valvoline claimed its Synpower motor oil provided 4X better wear protection than Mobil 1. Then in December Valvoline turned up the heat by further stating that Mobil 1 5W-30 actually failed the Sequence IVA engine test, and not by a small margin.
Now Castrol has jumped on the bandwagon and raised the bar, claiming its new Castrol Edge "provides 8X better wear protection than Mobil 1 5W-30", again citing the Sequence IVA test.

Either Valvoline and Castrol have some amazing new oils, or ExxonMobil has a problem. Even if it turns out they don't have a technical problem, they sure as heck have a marketing challenge. Yet for whatever reasons, they remain silent - at least for now. I'm sure we'll hear from them soon!
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Old 04-14-2011, 08:22 AM   #7
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wal*mart brand synthetic, and a mopar filter changed every 3000 miles has been working fine for me
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Old 04-14-2011, 08:34 AM   #8
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I HIGHLY recommend Mobil 1 Synthetic and FRAM Oil Filters.

I too have ALWAYS used Mobil 1 Synthetic in my 4.0s... I use the 10w30... As for performance, I just replaced the oil pump, valve cover gasket, and rear main seal in my 00 XJ @ 96K. Looking from the underside with the pan removed there was NO buildup or noticeable wear on the camshaft. The cap bearing was in excellent condition with no pitting or scratches. Also, when I removed the valve cover, there was no buildup or sludge. Honestly, if I didn't know any better, by the look at the amount of wear and patterning, I would have thought that the engine was barely broken in.

Unless something changes in their manufacturing, I will always use Mobil 1 in my engines...
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Old 04-14-2011, 08:47 AM   #9
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There goes the main advantage of using synthetic oil (ie twice as long oil change intervals). Conventional oil works just fine anyway. Synthetic is great oil but too hyped up and expensive for my serious consideration.
Apparently Mobil had a below standard batch of Mobil 1 oil out there at one time. Makes one wonder what you're getting for those high prices.
JobbersWorld Online is an interesting read on who's synthetic oil is better than the other.
Not to mention Mobil-1 is no longer a true synthetic, like the rest of them, but your still paying the ridiculously high prices.

If you feel the need to spend that much money on oil people should be using Amsoil.
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Old 04-14-2011, 11:38 AM   #10
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The recommended viscosity is 10w30. My Jeep 4.0L has over 195,000 hard miles using Amsoil 10w30 and an Amsoil oil filter. I have never had any oil related problems. Good stuff.
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Old 04-14-2011, 11:43 AM   #11
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I've always ran valvoline 10 30 high milage synthetic with Lucas oil stabilizer and a k&n oil filter and the oil downer turn black till it's got like 2k miles on it. I really like the setup and keeps the engine clean
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Old 04-14-2011, 02:45 PM   #12
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I was recently told by a clerk at OReilley's, who is also a Jeep owner, that they have removed the zink from most 10W-30 oils. He said that our beloved 4.0 motors have flat tappet cams that require zink. He says that most newer cars have roller cams and zink has been related to catostrophic failure in them. He recommended that I use 15W-40 in it instead. I have changed to it, but the motor sounds like it may have a slight lifter tap now. Is there any truth to what he says and what do the experts recommend that I do?
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Old 04-14-2011, 03:33 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by 1999TJWrangler
I was recently told by a clerk at OReilley's, who is also a Jeep owner, that they have removed the zink from most 10W-30 oils. He said that our beloved 4.0 motors have flat tappet cams that require zink. He says that most newer cars have roller cams and zink has been related to catostrophic failure in them. He recommended that I use 15W-40 in it instead. I have changed to it, but the motor sounds like it may have a slight lifter tap now. Is there any truth to what he says and what do the experts recommend that I do?
Yes, ZDDP is essential for flat tappet cams but it has not been completely removed. Under regulations the levels have been lowered. All of the shelf oil has ZDDP, and are reqiuires to have it within a range of like 600-800 ppm IIRC. Some oils have higher levels some have lower.

All oils though have plenty of ZDDP for stock applications IMO. If you had aftermrket cams and valve springs under high pressure then you better be looking for high ZDDP, but not for stock applications.

If this was truly a problem thousands of jeep owners would be having cam failure and it would be a huge issue like it was with aftermarket cams a couple decades ago. I have yet to see any documented cases of cam failures due to low ZDDP levels.
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Old 04-14-2011, 11:01 PM   #14
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I've ALWAYS used good ol' plain jane Quaker State 10W40 in my Jeep for the 2+ years I've had and the person who owned it before also did. Change about every 3,000 miles.

How does one change the filter half way through WITHOUT changing oil also? Why would anyone want to do that anyway? I guess, maybe IF you were doing some VERY extreme off roading, I could MAYBE see that, otherwise, rather goofy to me.

I generally use QS 5W30 in all my vehicles that get driven in the winter, but my Jeep doesn't very much at all. Have NEVER had an oil related incident.

IMO,
Synthetic oils are so over hyped it isn't funny.
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Old 04-15-2011, 12:39 AM   #15
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I HIGHLY recommend ...FRAM Oil Filters.
I really hope you're joking... Fram?

If you want a good oil filter, use Wix, Bosch, Purolator Pure One, or Mobil 1. The Fram filters are cardboard garbage. I wouldn't relieve myself on one to put out a fire...

As far as oil goes, Synthetics are always superior, but not necessary. I use a 10w-30 Castrol GTX in my Wrangler. I also add STP oil treatment. It contains a healthy dose of ZDDP for the flat tapped cam shafts that these engines have.
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Old 04-15-2011, 09:44 AM   #16
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Fram have never let me down. Neither has any other filter. Oh, I know, there are some less than scientific reports on the web, done by amateurs, that take swipes at Fram. I give them the credibility they deserve.
I have cut Fram, Wix, Motorcraft and Purolator filters apart myself. Suppose I could conjur up a report on thinner base plates, lack of dirt trapping efficiency data, none of which apply to Fram.
The Fram TG8A filters that I have used (using 5" long Mopars these days because I can get them for $2.70) worked without any issues, have a silicone anti drainback valve and 99% dirt trapping efficiency.
As to the Mopars, the anti-drainback valve is nitrile and who knows what dirt trapping efficiency they have, they are afraid to say I guess. Like Purolator, Wix and others, they would rather you not do an apples to apples comparison of filters as to their efficiency.
If you have any dirt trapping efficiency data, determined in accordance with recognized standards, for Wix, Purolator and others, please post the model, % and the source.
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Old 04-15-2011, 12:14 PM   #17
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I just replaced the 15W-40 with Penzoil 10W-30 high mileage and a can of Engine Restorer. The lifter tapping sound is gone and the motor sounds normal again. I guess that the 15W-40, that was recommended to me, is just to thick for my high mileage 4.0.
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Old 04-15-2011, 02:12 PM   #18
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Valvoline VR1 racing oil
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Old 04-15-2011, 10:34 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by TJeepman View Post
Fram have never let me down. Neither has any other filter. Oh, I know, there are some less than scientific reports on the web, done by amateurs, that take swipes at Fram. I give them the credibility they deserve.
I have cut Fram, Wix, Motorcraft and Purolator filters apart myself. Suppose I could conjur up a report on thinner base plates, lack of dirt trapping efficiency data, none of which apply to Fram.
The Fram TG8A filters that I have used (using 5" long Mopars these days because I can get them for $2.70) worked without any issues, have a silicone anti drainback valve and 99% dirt trapping efficiency.
As to the Mopars, the anti-drainback valve is nitrile and who knows what dirt trapping efficiency they have, they are afraid to say I guess. Like Purolator, Wix and others, they would rather you not do an apples to apples comparison of filters as to their efficiency.
If you have any dirt trapping efficiency data, determined in accordance with recognized standards, for Wix, Purolator and others, please post the model, % and the source.
I too have performed these cut tests... Every fram filter I have ever opened has cardboard endcaps. The other filters I mentioned have good solid metal endcaps and way more filter pleats. I would never ever ever recommend fram products. Ever.
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Old 04-16-2011, 01:22 PM   #20
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I too have performed these cut tests... Every fram filter I have ever opened has cardboard endcaps. The other filters I mentioned have good solid metal endcaps and way more filter pleats. I would never ever ever recommend fram products. Ever.
Metallic end caps don't mean squat with regard to filtering the oil and trapping nearly 100% of the >20 microns size particles. Toilet paper, which is a cellulose product, as are most oil filter medias (no metal there), can be held together with metallic end caps and still be a poor oil filter. Metallic end caps do not a good oil filter make. They are a convenient distraction for Fram bashers, nothing else.
Fram uses both non-metallic and metallic end caps depending on which filter you buy. There are others using non-metallic end caps as well. Try Champion for example with their thermally bonded non-metallic end caps.
Metallic end caps may have been around a bit longer, likely more than 45 years. But wait, the non-metallic end caps have been around for over 45 years as well. From a 2008 Report at this site.
Quote:
Fiber end caps are a logical alternative to metal end discs. Like the fibrous filter media, they provide an excellent bonding surface for the adhesive providing a very robust seal. They have proven durability in FRAM filters for more than 45 years.
Sounds like they have stood the test of time to me. End cap failure is the furthest thing from my mind when using a Fram or any other oil filter.

As for efficiency at trapping dirt, what filter does better than the Fram Tough Guard 8A for particle size >20 microns? It will be interesting to see the names. I can think of one.

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