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Old 09-04-2010, 07:11 PM   #1
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oils

hello
i bought my jeep 3 weeks ago with around 60K miles on it. did a full engine tune up and now i read on an earlier thread that the diff fluid and transfer case fluid are also to be changed. I have asked lets say a dozen of mechanics around here and they all say not to change just to add fluid when the level decreases. i want my jeep to last a long long time as a daily driver soo please your advice. and also for a manual is the fluid changed to?

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Old 09-04-2010, 07:14 PM   #2
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I do my diffs and transfer case once a year. Nothing wrong with taking extra care of your Jeep.

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Old 09-04-2010, 07:16 PM   #3
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Pull the diff covers and change the gear oil in both axles. Also drain and fill the manual transmission. Make sure to use the correct fluids.
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Old 09-04-2010, 07:20 PM   #4
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I do my diffs and transfer case once a year. Nothing wrong with taking extra care of your Jeep.
soo you say i should go ahead and do it? i also asked a mechanic if hed do it he said he would but if i get any noises or whines hes not responsible. scary
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Old 09-04-2010, 07:22 PM   #5
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Pull the diff covers and change the gear oil in both axles. Also drain and fill the manual transmission. Make sure to use the correct fluids.
what about transfer case? and what are the correct fluids, or lets say what is recommended because maybe there is something better than whats correct? wont i get any whines if i do that?
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Old 09-04-2010, 07:50 PM   #6
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I use Amsoil 70/140 in my diffs. I change them out once a year unless I've been playing in deep water. Pull your covers now and have a good mechanic do a detailed inspection of your diff gears. Buy some drain hole covers like G2 covers and install them after the inspection. Fill with fluid and enjoy. Next time you get the urge, just uncork the drain holes and then refill with fresh fluids. I have used nothing but full synthetic fluids in my 03 Rubicon and it's still running great after 114k miles.
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Old 09-04-2010, 08:06 PM   #7
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do you guys smell the oil first if its burned, then its too late to change? the jeep has 60K miles and lets say the previous owner never changed them. what you think?
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Old 09-04-2010, 08:13 PM   #8
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Gear oil smells like butt anyway. Have a thorough inspection done on your diff gears. A good gear mechanic can tell if things are burnt. You might be able to send a sample of the gear oil off to get tested (google search oil testing). If you are planning on changing gears for bigger tires, now would be a good time.
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Old 09-04-2010, 09:17 PM   #9
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Got a 2000 Wrangler TJ....First thing I did was change the oil in the motor , axles, and transmission....Just pulled the covers on everything like what they are saying here. Gears looked good, slapped the covers back on, refilled with oil....I personally like the "Royal Purple" brand (Synthetic) so that's what I have in everything....Bought the cheap pump at O'reilly's for underneath....not a problem....
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Old 09-04-2010, 09:25 PM   #10
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Yep, Royal Purple is good stuff just like Amsoil. Synthetic is the way to go for sure!
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Old 09-04-2010, 09:30 PM   #11
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Nothing wrong with changing oils in anything in your jeep could only help,I also change about once twice yearly just to keep everything fresh royal purple has worked well for me also
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Old 09-04-2010, 09:32 PM   #12
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RGR42 Thats one good looking rig
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Old 09-04-2010, 09:44 PM   #13
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Thanks! I wish I could post the 30 second stair climb video!
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Old 09-04-2010, 09:46 PM   #14
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Yep, Royal Purple is good stuff just like Amsoil. Synthetic is the way to go for sure!
You should NOT use synth gear lubes in your axles, it does not work as well as dino in there. Currie axles will void your warranty on the axles if synth is used.
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Old 09-04-2010, 09:55 PM   #15
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Hey bro, synth has worked great in my last 5 Jeeps. I've heard that it can break down faster than conventional in racing applications, but who is racing a TJ???
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Old 09-04-2010, 10:01 PM   #16
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I dont get it neither I run it without any problems
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Old 09-04-2010, 10:29 PM   #17
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Well you boys run whatever makes you feel warm and fuzzy but when someone like Currie who has forgotten more about gears than I will ever know recommends something, I tend to listen.
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Old 09-05-2010, 01:31 AM   #18
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I change the tranny fluid and filter in my Jeep every 30,000 miles religiously unless it overheats for some reason and then it is sooner. My axle and transfer case I change out around 60,000 miles. I use all synthetic when I do these changes. My last original auto tranny was still going strong after 250,000 miles changing the fluid and filter every 30,000 miles. They were pretty hard miles as Moab was a trip that was taken almost monthly for a few years and we beat on the Jeeps good.
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Old 09-05-2010, 01:55 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RGR42 View Post
Hey bro, synth has worked great in my last 5 Jeeps. I've heard that it can break down faster than conventional in racing applications, but who is racing a TJ???
I'm pretty sure there was a thread on here with supporting evidence proving that synthetic oil is not as good as dino oil in the axles (which also mentioned Currie voids the warranty when synthetic oils are used in their axles)...I'm sure for most of us who aren't using our Jeeps for extreme off-roading won't run into any problems whether we use dino or synthetic, but just wanted to say the evidence is there to support the argument. I find it surprising myself to be perfectly honest...
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Old 09-05-2010, 08:22 AM   #20
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Yep it has been shown that the gears in the axle run significantly hotter when bathed in synthetic gear lubes. The synthetic gear lube itself runs cooler but the surprising reason for that turned out that it doesn't extract the heat out of the gears as well as a conventional gear lube does. That fact surprised a LOT of people. Currie is indeed one axle manufacturer that will void their warranty if the customer fills it with synthetic gear lube. They had an unexpectedly high failure rate with some axles and it took a lot of work for them to finally learn that the axles that were failing had all been filled with a synthetic gear lube. Shocking but true.

Read Step 5 "Final Details" on page three...

http://www.currieenterprises.com/ins...ions_adder.pdf

That said, synthetic gear lube is fine for easy use in Jeeps and cars and why it doesn't cause failures like it can in hard-core uses. I won't take a chance so I run Torco 85W-140 convential gear lube in my Jeep axles. It wouldn't much matter in a car or something that doesn't get used hard.
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Old 09-05-2010, 09:52 AM   #21
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wooow okay with all that said. if i put nonsynthetic after how many miles should i change? does anyone recommend anything other than 85w 140? and what about the transfer case, same nonsynthetic 85w 140? and manual tranny?
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Old 09-05-2010, 11:31 AM   #22
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Hmmmm.... Looks like conventional gear oil is the way to go. I'll try it next time I'm due. Y'all are way too smart!!
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Old 09-05-2010, 11:36 AM   #23
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Transfer case uses ATF +3 or 4, you can use 80/90 in the diffs. Not sure if you have the ax15 trans but if you do, mobile 1 synthetic in 10/30 has been great for me.
Edit: do you have an auto? If so ignore the ax15 recommendation.
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Old 09-05-2010, 11:44 AM   #24
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wooow okay with all that said. if i put nonsynthetic after how many miles should i change? does anyone recommend anything other than 85w 140? and what about the transfer case, same nonsynthetic 85w 140? and manual tranny?
The exact viscosity used in an axle is way less of an issue than it is for the engine. In reality, there isn't a whole of of difference in any of the gear lube viscosities as they are measured differently from engine oils. Like a 75W-90 gear lube is roughly the same viscosity as 10W-30 engine oil.

Generally speaking, use a lower viscosity like 75W-90 for typical uses, a heavier viscosity like 85W-140, 90W-120, etc. for heavy duty uses or for towing.
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Old 09-05-2010, 01:02 PM   #25
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Here is my 2 cents worth of info. I have built too many diff. to remember. Have been a mechanic since 81. One example that sticks in my mind is a customer that bought a 85 GMC 6.2L diesel C10. He was a custom cutter that made runs from Minn to Texas on wheat harvest. The GMC pulled a 35ft. Header trailer. It came factory with 2.73 gears (couldn't pull its self empty). We made the switch to 4.11 gears and it headed to Texas fully loaded. By the time it got there the rear end was so hot the gears were turned blue and the pinion seal melted and leaked all the (Dino) gear oil out. Some mechanic down there said I built it to tight. So he rebuilt it (loose) with new ring gear and Pinion. By the time he made it back to Minnesota the gears were again turned blue and it burnt up. Then it was built a third time using Schaeffer's 267 syn. gear lube. It ran many years after that, changing lube once a year. Now i use nothing but Schaeffer's in all my builds.
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Old 09-05-2010, 07:19 PM   #26
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Transfer case uses ATF +3 or 4, you can use 80/90 in the diffs. Not sure if you have the ax15 trans but if you do, mobile 1 synthetic in 10/30 has been great for me.
Edit: do you have an auto? If so ignore the ax15 recommendation.
its gona have the nv3somethng something in it. its auto now but wont be for long.
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Old 09-05-2010, 07:21 PM   #27
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The exact viscosity used in an axle is way less of an issue than it is for the engine. In reality, there isn't a whole of of difference in any of the gear lube viscosities as they are measured differently from engine oils. Like a 75W-90 gear lube is roughly the same viscosity as 10W-30 engine oil.

Generally speaking, use a lower viscosity like 75W-90 for typical uses, a heavier viscosity like 85W-140, 90W-120, etc. for heavy duty uses or for towing.
And what if i put the heavier viscosity just in case and use it normally daily will that have an inpact on life span of the gears?
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Old 09-05-2010, 07:26 PM   #28
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Here is my 2 cents worth of info. I have built too many diff. to remember. Have been a mechanic since 81. One example that sticks in my mind is a customer that bought a 85 GMC 6.2L diesel C10. He was a custom cutter that made runs from Minn to Texas on wheat harvest. The GMC pulled a 35ft. Header trailer. It came factory with 2.73 gears (couldn't pull its self empty). We made the switch to 4.11 gears and it headed to Texas fully loaded. By the time it got there the rear end was so hot the gears were turned blue and the pinion seal melted and leaked all the (Dino) gear oil out. Some mechanic down there said I built it to tight. So he rebuilt it (loose) with new ring gear and Pinion. By the time he made it back to Minnesota the gears were again turned blue and it burnt up. Then it was built a third time using Schaeffer's 267 syn. gear lube. It ran many years after that, changing lube once a year. Now i use nothing but Schaeffer's in all my builds.
okay this is an example of synthetic under load and it made it fine. and your a mechanic for a long time (knock on wood) and you say that putting synthetic will be better for daily use and mild offroading? and what viscosity?
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Old 09-08-2010, 07:06 PM   #29
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Old 09-08-2010, 10:18 PM   #30
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And what if i put the heavier viscosity just in case and use it normally daily will that have an inpact on life span of the gears?
Not a problem at all for most of us. I just wouldn't run an extra-high viscosity gear lube if you live where it gets uber cold like perhaps North Dakota or Buffalo NY.

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