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Old 07-18-2013, 04:28 PM   #31
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Yep that would work, I just used a big soft-faced mallet to reinstall mine.

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Old 07-18-2013, 04:43 PM   #32
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To save some cash for the future, I'd suggest swapping out the dana35 for a dana44 or 8.8....depending on the type of wheeling you do or how gentle you are with the gas pedal....

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Old 07-18-2013, 06:01 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford View Post
Yep that would work, I just used a big soft-faced mallet to reinstall mine.
This worked great for me... ↑
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Old 07-18-2013, 07:22 PM   #34
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Well. Got the new carrier and spider gears in place. Gonna finish pressing in the bearings and then Loctite the ring gear on and I should be set to go for the rest of the install. Spider gears move nice and snug in there!

-Sam

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Old 07-18-2013, 07:33 PM   #35
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Hopefully you measured your backlash before removing the carrier, that measurement should be duplicated when re-shimming the new carrier into place so the gears mesh together the same way they did before. That new carrier & spider gears looks nice, fancy/schmancy-looking!
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Old 07-18-2013, 08:01 PM   #36
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Jerry, please excuse my ignorance but when you say measure my backlash, I'm not quite sure what you mean. The big round spacers that came off (I'm assuming you mean the ones that were in there originally between the housing and carrier) is what you are talking about?
I didn't replace the ring gear or pinion. Just the carrier and spider gears.
Please advise.

-Sam
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Old 07-19-2013, 12:48 AM   #37
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Backlash is the required amount of "slop" between the ring & pinion gear... i.e. how far back & forth the ring gear can be rotated back & forth against the stationary pinion gear.

Per the FSM... Gear Backlash . . . .0.13-0.20 mm (0.005-0 .008 in.)

The backlash how far the ring gear can be rotated between the teeth on the pinion gear. You use a dial indicator to see how much there is.

If there is too little or too much backlash, the gears will be noisy and likely fail.

If there is too much backlash, the differential needs to get shimmed towards the right, towards the pinion gear. Too little backlash and it needs to be shimmed to the left, away from the pinion gear.

There also must be enough "preload" so the carrier bearings work properly after you have the back lash set. Use light preload while setting the back lash, then add equal amounts of shimming on both sides to get the required amount without changing the backlash between the gears.

Installing a new carrier isn't just a bolt & go process. I would read up on the gear setup procedure in the Tech section at Randy's Ring & Pinion at http://www.ringpinion.com/Content/Ho...structions.pdf.

You don't need to do a complete ring & pinion gear setup, all you need to do is the backlash adjustment... a simple straight forward thing once you understand it. So don't let all the R&P setup scare you, just read up on setting the backlash.

This is what a typical dial indicator looks like when measuring the backlash between the ring & pinion gears. I think I have seen dial indicators cheap at Harbor Freight Tools... call around if they don't have one, you'll need one.



You may want to ask for some local help on this, from someone who has set up ring & pinion gears, or at least who has set up the backlash before. It needs to be done, but it's not a terribly difficult job at all.

One last comment... you might get lucky so try reinstalling the shims exactly as they came out & then check your backlash. It may be within spec, I hope it is. You just can't ignore it when installing a new carrier or full-case locker/lsd.

Here are all the specs from the FSM...

Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Semi-floating Hypoid
Axle Ratios . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3.07/3.55/3.73/4.11
Ring Gear Diameter . . . . . . . . 193 .55 mm (7.62 in.)
Gear Backlash . . . .0.13-0.20 mm (0.005-0 .008 in.)
Pinion Depth . . . . . . . . . . . . . .96 .85mm (3 .813 in.)
Brg. Perload, Pinion
(New) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.7-3 .9 N-m (15-35 in. lbs.)
Brg. Perload, Pinion
(Used) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-3 N-m (10-20 in. lbs.)
Maximum Carrier Spread. . . . . 0 .51 mm (0.020 in.

TORQUE
DESCRIPTION TORQUE
Bolts, Dif£ Cover . . . . . . . . . . . .41 N-m (30 ft. lbs.)
Bolts, Dif£ Bearing Cap . . . . .108 N-m (80 ft. lbs .)
Bolts, Ring Gear. . . . . . . . . . . .;:108 N-m (80 ft. lbs .)
Nuts, Brake Backing Plate . . . .61 N-m (45 ft. lbs .)
Nut, Pinion Gear-
Minimum * . . . . . . . . . . . . . 292 N-m (215 ft. lbs .)
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Old 07-19-2013, 12:46 PM   #38
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Well...... It seems I have my work cut out for me this evening. LOL
I was REEEEEEALLY hoping it would be a "bolt-on" process. Maybe my original bearing spacers will work out and I won't need to shim for more of less backlash. Cross your fingers (and eye balls)
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Old 07-19-2013, 12:47 PM   #39
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Jerry, I'm guessing I could pick up these carrier shims at any auto store or 4 wheel wholesale store?
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Old 07-20-2013, 10:06 AM   #40
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*bump*
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Old 07-21-2013, 12:35 AM   #41
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Well. She's all done. The stock/original carrier spacers worked out just fine and seems to have the correct backlash. No grinding noise and seems to ride a bit smoother in between shift points.
Took it out for about 20 miles today and going to recheck the gear oil tomorrow morning because it only took 1.8 pints when I was told it takes about 2.5? At any rate, double check it tomorrow.

I want to thank ALL OF YOU GUYS for all your expertise and knowledge throughout my rebuild. I truly appreciate it!


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Old 08-10-2013, 12:16 AM   #42
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By the way, when I installed the original ring gear to the new carrier, they 4 wheel parts) failed to mention that I needed to drill out larger holes on the carrier so that the original bolts would fit and tighten up the ring gear. For a supposed OEM item you would think they would have been drilled out already to the correct size of the bolts. :O/


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