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Old 03-20-2017, 06:18 PM   #1
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Overheating >:(

My Jeep is a 4.0L auto with about 95k miles. I was having issues back in December, so I flushed/backflushed, replaced the tstat, water pump and radiator. I suspect I have a bad heater core because I'm not getting any heat in the cabin, but I've been putting that off. Anyways, things have been ok since December. Until today. I noticed that the temp started crawling past 210, then shot up to the red zone. Luckily I was close enough so I drove it home.

I haven't had a chance to look at it yet, but what should I be looking out for?
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Old 03-20-2017, 06:26 PM   #2
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What parts did you use?

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Old 03-20-2017, 06:34 PM   #3
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Maybe just a big air bubble

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Old 03-20-2017, 08:06 PM   #4
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Maybe just a big air bubble

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TJs are self burping.
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Old 03-20-2017, 08:29 PM   #5
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What parts did you use?
Autozone special.
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Old 03-20-2017, 08:34 PM   #6
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How's the fan clutch? What brand thermostat? You want a 195° Stant.
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Old 03-20-2017, 10:59 PM   #7
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Autozone special.
Plenty of threads on here about cheap autoparts store brands. I'd recommend an OEM unit from wermopar.com
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Old 03-21-2017, 04:12 PM   #8
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Plenty of threads on here about cheap autoparts store brands. I'd recommend an OEM unit from wermopar.com
*grumble*grumble*
Turns out to be the cheap @ss frigging water pump, leaking like a mother frigging sieve.

Thanks for the link.
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Old 03-21-2017, 05:20 PM   #9
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TJs are self burping.
Yes and no. They will eventually burp small bubbles but not big ones. I've personally had this issue. OP, pull off the heater core hose from the thermostat. Once water flows out, put it back over the barb and tighten it back down- foolproof burping method and you don't have to remove anything.

This happened to me in November after my thermostat and radiator replacement
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Old 03-21-2017, 06:16 PM   #10
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I burped mine by backing the temp sensor out a few threads then letting the air out until coolant flows a few drops then tighten it back up.

I just replaced my water pump 3 months ago. I went to NAPA. Brand new and not a refurb. It works great.
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Old 03-21-2017, 09:48 PM   #11
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Autozone special.
The only thing good from AZ is oil when it's on sale....
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Old 03-22-2017, 08:20 AM   #12
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The only thing good from AZ is oil when it's on sale....
Walmart here is about 5-7 dollars cheaper per 5qt jug over AZ even when AZ has its sale running.

AZ does carry National seals in the Timken box for half the price of them being in the National box though. Found this out the other day when a manager actually went above and beyond for me. Darn seals in the Timken boxes were even stamped National.
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Old 03-22-2017, 08:37 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by jjvw View Post
TJs are self burping.
Not necessarily true

Easiest way to burp a TJ is install a flushing tee in the inlet line of the heater core at the highest point(near the firewall). Remove Tee cap fill radiator until coolant flows from tee, install cap on tee. Run the motor with radiator cap removed until up to operating temp. Shut down the motor, let it cool completely then refill if needed.

If the temp starts to creep up beyond operating temp during the initial start up gently squeeze the upper radiator hose near the T- stat housing and look for bubbles in the radiator. Repeat until no bubbles show

It's also highly recommended that you change the fan clutch whenever you change the water pump.
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Old 03-22-2017, 08:47 AM   #14
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Whenever I've done a radiator flush, I fill the system and overflow. Then I top off the overflow over the course of a few warm up cycles. I haven't seen the need to over complicate anything.
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Old 03-22-2017, 08:55 AM   #15
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If it works for you that's great.....I've had mine get airlocked. Can't see how cutting a hose and installing a $5 tee and doing a couple extra steps is over complicating. Especially at the cost and hassles of doing a head gasket or worse replacing the head.
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Old 03-22-2017, 09:13 AM   #16
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I have a tee for flushing the heater core. If for some reason my 4.0 stops self-burping, then I will be sure to make further use of it.
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Old 03-22-2017, 10:25 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by jjvw View Post
Whenever I've done a radiator flush, I fill the system and overflow. Then I top off the overflow over the course of a few warm up cycles. I haven't seen the need to over complicate anything.
If removing a heater hose is complicated, you have a good point.

It isn't.

And you don't. In fact, having to supervise "a few warm up cycles" is a lot more complicated and time consuming that removing a heater hose, filling the system and being done with it. That way, you are guaranteed not to have a head full of air and all the complications that go with it.
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Old 03-22-2017, 10:27 AM   #18
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If it works for you that's great.....I've had mine get airlocked. Can't see how cutting a hose and installing a $5 tee and doing a couple extra steps is over complicating. Especially at the cost and hassles of doing a head gasket or worse replacing the head.
No need to cut anything. Just remove the heater hose at the thermostat housing and fill until it overflows.
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Old 03-22-2017, 10:39 AM   #19
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If it works for you that's great.....I've had mine get airlocked. Can't see how cutting a hose and installing a $5 tee and doing a couple extra steps is over complicating. Especially at the cost and hassles of doing a head gasket or worse replacing the head.
Mostly because it just creates another point where it can eventually leak. (There was a post just the other day where someone's clamp job was leaking.)
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Old 03-22-2017, 10:40 AM   #20
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No need to cut anything. Just remove the heater hose at the thermostat housing and fill until it overflows.
Different strokes for different folks, the outcome is the same.

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Mostly because it just creates another point where it can eventually leak. (There was a post just the other day where someone's clamp job was leaking.)
Lack of proper maintenance I would presume.
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Old 03-22-2017, 11:59 AM   #21
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Different strokes for different folks, the outcome is the same.
Not necessarily. You cannot have a cheap plastic flush fitting fail if you don't have a cheap plastic flush fitting.

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Lack of proper maintenance I would presume.
In that case, kindly share with us the appropriate maintenence procedures for cheap plastic flush fittings.
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Old 03-22-2017, 10:15 PM   #22
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Whenever I've done a radiator flush, I fill the system and overflow. Then I top off the overflow over the course of a few warm up cycles. I haven't seen the need to over complicate anything.
Thats how I have done mine. Havent had an overheating issue yet
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Old 03-23-2017, 08:45 AM   #23
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The push-back over removing one hose clamp never ceases to amaze me.

Likewise with the logic that giving air an escape route is not a good thing. (Plenty of vehicles have vent plugs which serve the same function as removing the heater hose.)

Quote:
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Thats how I have done mine. Havent had an overheating issue yet
Next time, fill it your way. Then remove the heater hose and watch another half gallon of coolant go in and completely fill the head.

Something to contemplate: If your temp sensor is dry, how would you know you haven't had an overheating issue?
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Old 03-24-2017, 05:03 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by tangofox007 View Post
The push-back over removing one hose clamp never ceases to amaze me.

Something to contemplate: If your temp sensor is dry, how would you know you haven't had an overheating issue?
Remember I had the same issue with mine? I drilled a weep hole, it worked but the second time i replaced a thermostat, removing the hose was so much better. Burping while the engine is running is the best way. I have AC so I couldn't remove the temp sensor while running but the heater core hose is simple. I can burp it all I want while idling.

As far as the temp sensor: if it is dry, it will still read air temp. When mine was airlocked I was getting steam behind it which was very alarming because of pressure. It was enough to warm up the temp sensor but not the heat sink on the thermostat to open.

Moral of the story burp it somehow! The FSM says to do the temp sensor(I think) but AC lines get in the way when running. Heater hose is arguably easier unless it's all old and dry
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Old 03-24-2017, 11:20 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by tangofox007 View Post
If removing a heater hose is complicated, you have a good point.

It isn't.

And you don't. In fact, having to supervise "a few warm up cycles" is a lot more complicated and time consuming that removing a heater hose, filling the system and being done with it. That way, you are guaranteed not to have a head full of air and all the complications that go with it.
"Head Full of Air,"! Please folks! Let's not get personal!
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Old 03-24-2017, 06:35 PM   #26
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just winch it up a tree...that will get the air out

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