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Old 06-01-2011, 11:55 AM   #31
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Thanks Shelby, the bumper doesnt have any rust or pits in it, so that should make it a little easier. is it difficult to take the bumper off? also what should i do about the ruber pieces on the front, just tape them up? also when you say "Wipe down with wax/grease remover/ bug and tar remover/ denatured alcohol/ paint reducer" does that mean pick one? my jeep is a 98, would that be one of the older ones with flat coating? i think i would prefer to spray paint it as to match the fender flares and milk jugs.

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Old 06-01-2011, 12:21 PM   #32
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AS for the flares and pulling them, well I did it on ours. Shot em with Dupli-Color Bed Armour liner material.

Removal is a PITA. Not hard, just a PITA.

Fronts aren't too bad. If memory serves me, there are two or three bolts at the rear, that go into pressed in nuts on the fender. Soak em with PB Blaster or similar first.
Take your time removing them. You pull too hard and you'll spin the nuts loose in the fender. And it's not fun at all then trying to get the bolts out.

The rest are some brain child at Chrysler's idea of a fix for rusty nuts. The rest of the flare is held in with screws, that go into plastic blocks on the back side of the fender. The flare gets pinched between the screw and fender/plastic block.

Great idea, almost. The blocks have nothing to retain them, so when you spin the screw, the blocks spin right along with em. OK grab em with a pair of pliers. That's when you find out an idiot designed em. First off all they had to do was make em longer, then they would hit the lip of the fender as they spun and off would come the screw. Not only did they not do this, they also angled the blocks. They look like a four sided pyramid with the top cut off. So it's nearly impossible to grab em with a wrench or pliers, they just slip off.

So you got to wiggle your hand in there and grab em with a thumb and finger, and try and hold em as you work the screw loose. Might not be to bad if you are using a ratchet and socket, but I was using an air ratchet. Let's just say my thumb and finger took a beating as often the retainer would for spite, just spin in my fingers.

Anyhow, get em all off, unplug the lamp, and off it comes. Single nut holds the lamp to the flare. Pull it off and remove the lamp.

Wipe down with previous mentioned chemical. Sand with 320 if you are going with paint, then switch to 600 or higher. If you are going the liner route 180 to 220 works well. Same thing, work out the chips/gouges. Wipe down. Paint.


Rear flares same story. Couple of bolts, and a slew of those plastic retainers/screws.
And they threw in a nasty twist. The fender liner is in the way to access those plastic retainers. It's held in with 6 if I remember correctly, christmas tree fasteners.

Plastic pins with a bunch of little branches on them, hence the name. There is a proper tool for removing them. Or just grab em with a pair of side cutter pliers and get under the head an pull. Out they will come. Sometimes you can reuse em, most of the time not. No biggie, Advance carries em. Couple of bucks for ten of em.

OK, got those out of the way, now you can move the liner around to get your hand up inside to grab those pesky retainers, tear up your thumb and finger, and curse the soul of Chrysler.

Repair/refinish is the same as the front.

Reinstall is more of the same PITA, holding the retainers as you spin the screws back in. Install the bolts and christmas tree fasteners. Reinstall the lamp, careful not to tighten the nut too tight or you'll snap the plastic stud off, reinstall the bulb/socket.


Clean up the mess, kick back, nurse your sore fingers with the beverage of choice, and admire your work.

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Old 06-01-2011, 12:48 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by Pmedg View Post
Thanks Shelby, the bumper doesnt have any rust or pits in it, so that should make it a little easier. is it difficult to take the bumper off? also what should i do about the ruber pieces on the front, just tape them up? also when you say "Wipe down with wax/grease remover/ bug and tar remover/ denatured alcohol/ paint reducer" does that mean pick one? my jeep is a 98, would that be one of the older ones with flat coating? i think i would prefer to spray paint it as to match the fender flares and milk jugs.

Not that bad taking it off. It makes for a nicer job. No edges around items like the rubbers, or hooks/bolts. Looks neater and no edges to lift up and peel on you. Plus it's easier to sand that way.

The rubbers are bolted on from the back side. PB Blaster is your friend on all the fasteners.

Yeah your choice as to the chemical. Any of them serve the purpose, to remove any oils/grease/wax. That way you don't sand the stuff into your work. Do that and you will see some ugly paint when you spray it.

On the textured ones, tread lightly when you sand. You want to open up the old paint for the new to bite into, but not so much that you wipe out the textured finish, unless you want to. A Scotch pad works great for this. Where sandpaper will hit the high spots, the Scotch pad will drop into those crevices and scuff them too.

Ours is a 97 and has textured bumpers, so I'd bet yours does too. Just look at it. It will be either a nearly perfectly flat finish like the rest of the jeep painted sheet metal, or it will look grainy/textured.

If it's textured a flat or semi flat black will match the jugs.
Trick to keep it textured is to use light coats and hold your distance away from the parts. This allows the paint to start drying as it's on it's way to the the parts. It will form tiny lumps if you will, forming a texture.

If you go heavy handed on the paint or spray too close, the paint will want to flow before it starts to dry. It will flow across all those crevices and fill them in, and away goes your texture. Go really heavy or too close, and it's called a run or drip!

Doo doo happens, if it does it's no big deal. You get a run or a drip, grab some 2" masking tape. Form it into a loop, adhesive side out. Lightly dab the run with the tape, keep moving the tape and dabbing till you get rid of most of the run. Won't look real pretty, but in removing a lot of the excess paint it will dry quicker. Let it dry, and scuff out the area so it's not so obvious. Reshoot some more paint over the piece and you are good to go and no one will ever know.
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Old 06-01-2011, 02:49 PM   #34
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Thanks for the detailed write up, i am heading to the bahamas on sunday, but when i get back i will be touching up the bumpers. just got to go get some torx screw drivers, i really wish they used flat/phillips instead, but what can you do.
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Old 06-01-2011, 08:13 PM   #35
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I just painted my flares this past weekend and they came out great.
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Old 06-16-2011, 09:58 AM   #36
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Its been about 3 weeks since i painted the Fender Flares and they look the same as the day I painted them. as more time passes i will give an update on how well they hold up.
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Old 06-18-2011, 03:05 PM   #37
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Thanks for making this thread Pmedg. I used it as a guide for doing mine today. I am happy to say they turned out way nicer than I expected.
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Old 06-18-2011, 09:07 PM   #38
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Just got mine back on today.
Those plastic "nuts" are indeed a PITA, LoL

I trimmed off about an inch along the top edge, painted with rustoleum bedliner.

(crappy pic, it's getting too dark for my cheapo camera)
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Old 06-19-2011, 09:28 PM   #39
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The previous owner of my jeep painted the flares with cheap dollar store gloss black spray paint. Didn't even spring for a roll of tape to mask off the paint. Aside from looking like crap, it's now flaking. I'm going to have to pull the flares off, strip & repaint them, plus sand and buff the body where the black paint wound up around the flares. Bummer. Good excuse to sand the rest of the body with 1200 and buff to a showroom shine, though!
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Old 06-20-2011, 09:02 AM   #40
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Painted my mirrors on saturday

My mirrors had been looking pretty bad so I decided to paint them. Luckily Always Stuck was at his garage so I had the luxury of his expertise as well as the use of his tools.

I was going to sand the mirrors down by hand, but Always Stuck taught me how to use his industrial sander which saved me hours. He showed me how to prime them and then painted them with Krylon Fusion Satin Black. I think they came out awesome here are some pictures.


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Painted

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Installed

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Old 06-20-2011, 09:38 AM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pmedg View Post
My mirrors had been looking pretty bad so I decided to paint them. Luckily Always Stuck was at his garage so I had the luxury of his expertise as well as the use of his tools.

I was going to sand the mirrors down by hand, but Always Stuck taught me how to use his industrial sander which saved me hours. He showed me how to prime them and then painted them with Krylon Fusion Satin Black. I think they came out awesome here are some pictures.


Before

Attachment 54438

Sanded Down

Attachment 54439


Primed

Attachment 54440
Painted

Attachment 54441

Installed

Attachment 54442
The mirrors came out very nice. As I read through the thread, I noted a few things that need to be addressed.

First is some confusion over what Krylon Fusion is to be sprayed on. If you read the label, it very clearly states that it is for metal as well as plastic.

Here is a blurb from the Krylon site-

Krylon: Products: Fusion for Plastic®

As far as your front bumper goes if it's got paint on it and you spray over the paint, then you aren't really painting metal, you're painting paint.

Nowhere on the Krylon fusion can does it say to prep any plastic with Rubbing Alcohol. It gives a cleaning and washing recommendation for heavily weathered plastic and similar for not so weathered plastic.

And their general recommendations for surface prep for various materials.

Krylon: Surface Preparation
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Old 06-20-2011, 10:19 AM   #42
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The mirrors came out very nice. As I read through the thread, I noted a few things that need to be addressed.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Black Magic Brakes View Post

First is some confusion over what Krylon Fusion is to be sprayed on. If you read the label, it very clearly states that it is for metal as well as plastic.

Here is a blurb from the Krylon site-

Krylon: Products: Fusion for Plastic®

As far as your front bumper goes if it's got paint on it and you spray over the paint, then you aren't really painting metal, you're painting paint.

Thats a good piont, i hadn't even thought about that.


Nowhere on the Krylon fusion can does it say to prep any plastic with Rubbing Alcohol. It gives a cleaning and washing recommendation for heavily weathered plastic and similar for not so weathered plastic.

And their general recommendations for surface prep for various materials.

Krylon: Surface Preparation


I didnt read the can for the prep instructions, i went off what i had read in other threads on the subject. But thank you for the information.
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Old 06-20-2011, 10:56 AM   #43
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I didnt read the can for the prep instructions, i went off what i had read in other threads on the subject. But thank you for the information.
When it comes to specialty paint, it's a good idea to trust the folks who make the stuff over someone on the internet unless they happen to work for the company of the product you are using.

There is a gent right now on another board who prepped his flares with acetone because a body shop told him to even knowing he was going to be using a normal paint.

Acetone is too hot and evaporates far too fast to do any good and the flares had been wiped with some tire shine or similar which really needs to be removed with a good detergent and Prepsol before you spray.

The result was a high number of fish eyes which he then tried to cover with more paint and then when that dried he tried to sand it all off with 100 grit which scratched the crap out of the plastic. Right now he has more hours in them than a new set of flares is worth.

You also need to be cautious when taking advice because very little of it is long term enough to catch all the problems that may arise from improper prep down the road a year or two.

If you read some of the dash paint threads that go on for a long time, you will note that some folks say it looks great at first and then as time goes by, not so great any more.

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