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Old 04-05-2008, 02:31 PM   #1
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Painting

I've ordered a new rear bumper/ tire carrier, it comes bare metal. Should I get it powdercoated, line-x'd, or just piss can it so I can make small touch ups? thanks in advance.

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Old 04-05-2008, 02:35 PM   #2
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Chrome

I'd say power coat or rhino linered as those are durable.

I'm pretty sure you dont want rust on it a week after u buy it because you missed to touch up a scratch..

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Old 04-05-2008, 06:46 PM   #3
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I spraypainted my old YJ with rustolem Chrome...go with that!

$5 a can at WallyWorld
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Old 04-05-2008, 07:07 PM   #4
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Chrome

I'd say power coat or rhino linered as those are durable.

I'm pretty sure you dont want rust on it a week after u buy it because you missed to touch up a scratch..
While Rhino-Lining and Line-X are well thought of as the most durable bed liners, I would suggest Line-X over rhino lining. I have owned trucks with both, and I have also worked as a Rhino-Lining technician. I love Rhinos product, it is a GREAT liner, and by far ONE of the strongest, and definitely the most "grippy" liner on the market. That is important for pickups, or medium duty work trucks. Not necessarily for a tire carrier. For a bumper or tire carrier, I would choose Line-X over rhino lining. Because of its thick, rubbery nature that make it so grippy, it has less tensile strength than Line-X. On a pickup, or medium duty, it usually holds up just fine (unless you take a bobcat, and rip the liner up from the outer edge near the tailgate.. oops..), but it does have a tendancy of being "softer," derived from its rubbery mixture that make it so grippy. Because its softer, either off road or on road, there is a higher risk that backing into something, or dropping down onto a rock, will rip the liner. Line-X is a harder substance, less grippy, but stronger tensile strength.


with that said, I would rattle can is with some primer first, and touch it up as need be, unless I had the cash to waste to powder coat it. Powder coat would be your best option, but I personally would save the cash on a part thats supposed to take severe abuse, and just rattle can it.
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Old 04-06-2008, 02:26 PM   #5
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with that said, I would rattle can is with some primer first, and touch it up as need be.......but I personally would save the cash on a part thats supposed to take severe abuse, and just rattle can it.
Thats what I was thinking, you dont think it will rust like trip said? Im down win FL and its becoming the wet season.
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Old 04-06-2008, 02:49 PM   #6
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I got my rear bumper bare metal.

Here's the steps I took.
1) washed with hot water and soapy steel wool pad 4 times.
2) blow dried it.
3) wiped it down really well with mineral spirits
4) blow dried again
5) 2 coats of automotive primer (one can)
6) 8 coats of Rustoleum Satin Black (2 cans) in a three day time period.
7) beautiful Finish. No problem

Cost $15 and my time

Saving over Powdercoating = somewhere around $80 - $100
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Old 04-06-2008, 03:01 PM   #7
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Mr Bash how does it hold up to abuse?
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Old 04-06-2008, 03:42 PM   #8
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I installed it last night. I've been paiting it over and over again all week. I let it dry for 48 hours. So far the only abuse it has seen is me jumping all over it to check if the paint is going to crack or peel. Nothing happened. I'm sure I will scrape it here and there all the time when I wheel, but I really don't mind.

I'm probably wheeling tonight after work so I'll find out how it will hold up.
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Old 04-06-2008, 03:53 PM   #9
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but I really don't mind.
I'm pretty sure the rust wont mind either.
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Old 04-06-2008, 04:01 PM   #10
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Now let me ask you this....If I powdercoated it, won't it rust anyway when i scrape it on rocks?
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Old 04-06-2008, 04:05 PM   #11
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I was just talking to one of ym buddies and he tells me powdercoat will not scrape off if I scrape a rock.

I did not know that. If that's the case, I'll jst powdercoat it later on when its time. As for now, The bumpers looking good and I'm happy.
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Old 04-06-2008, 04:08 PM   #12
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Now let me ask you this....If I powdercoated it, won't it rust anyway when i scrape it on rocks?
Yup. And you can't just touch up powder coat. If you rattle can it and it rusts on a scrape, just sand the rust and touch it up, whats the big deal? It is not like its gonna rust through. It is a hell of alot thicker steel than the body panel, isn't it?
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Old 04-06-2008, 04:09 PM   #13
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I was just talking to one of ym buddies and he tells me powdercoat will not scrape off if I scrape a rock.

I did not know that. If that's the case, I'll jst powdercoat it later on when its time. As for now, The bumpers looking good and I'm happy.
Your buddy is full of it. It is stronger than paint, but it can and will scrape off
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Old 04-06-2008, 05:09 PM   #14
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MrBash,
thanks for the steps, did you use rustoleum cuase its thicker? I wouldnt mind spending $100 on powdercoat but whats the point if I can fix scrapes on my own with the rattle can. Now how will the line-X hold up, will it easily scrape off too?
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Old 04-06-2008, 05:20 PM   #15
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Your buddy is full of it. It is stronger than paint, but it can and will scrape off
If that's the case I am glad I saved my dollars for something else and painted it myself.

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MrBash,
thanks for the steps, did you use rustoleum cuase its thicker? I wouldnt mind spending $100 on powdercoat but whats the point if I can fix scrapes on my own with the rattle can. Now how will the line-X hold up, will it easily scrape off too?
You welcome. I used rustoleum because that was recommended by the person who makes the bumpers. I know nothing of Line-X so no comment there. Also, if you do paint it, make sure you primer it well and let dry.

For painting time, I painted and let stand for 10 minutes and then painted the second coat. 5 Minutes later I painted again. One hour later I painted again and let dry for 48 hours. After 48 hours I repeated the first step. 48 hours later I repeated one more time coming to a total of 12 coats. I said 8 in the beginning of this thread because that's what i thought I did. So it actually has 12 coats of paint and two coats of primer. EXCELLENT!
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Old 04-06-2008, 05:35 PM   #16
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Powdercoat is VERY strong, but it will scrape off just the same as paint, especially with the abuse that Jeepers put there bumpers though.

Dont listen to trip, if you scrape it on a rock, just make sure you clean the area real good, and re-paint it. no biggy. Just the same as using touch up paint, or clear nail polish on your body panels.

As for line-x, the same thing applies. It has a higher tensile strength than paint, but if you wheel your jeep it will chip off eventually, and touching up Line-X is a PITA and costly.

Rattle can it, and touch it up. If your THAT worried about rust on an aftermarket add on, get some marine clean and the acid from POR-15, use that to treat the metal when it scratches, than repaint. Heck, you could even paint it in por-15, would be almost as strong as powdercoat but would be repairable, but that would get pricey.
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Old 04-06-2008, 05:48 PM   #17
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You guys have been very helpful. I get the bumper the 10th but Im going out of town this weekend so Itll have to wait til 19th.
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Old 04-06-2008, 05:56 PM   #18
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You guys have been very helpful. I get the bumper the 10th but Im going out of town this weekend so Itll have to wait til 19th.
I think its time to show ur wife how to paint
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Old 04-06-2008, 05:58 PM   #19
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I think its time to show ur wife how to paint
Im not married and I dont think Id let her do it anyway. after all its my jeep.
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Old 04-06-2008, 06:34 PM   #20
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My Bumper


I also installed a Frame Tie Kit for added strength.
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Old 04-06-2008, 06:53 PM   #21
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If I wanted to Rhino-Lining or Line-X my tube and frame how many gallons would it be?
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Old 04-07-2008, 12:45 AM   #22
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MrBash, looks real sharp. Im gonna go with you method. thanks again to everyone for the input.
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Old 04-07-2008, 02:12 AM   #23
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My Bumper


I also installed a Frame Tie Kit for added strength.
Where did you get that bumper from and how much?

looking to buy one if it is cheaper for you to self paint. I want it because of the hitch reciever.
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Old 04-07-2008, 07:02 AM   #24
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RealTree camo tape.
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Old 04-07-2008, 08:24 AM   #25
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RealTree camo tape.
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Old 04-07-2008, 08:25 AM   #26
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I still say go with chrome

This is my old YJ after I sprayed it.

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Old 04-07-2008, 09:23 AM   #27
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I still say go with chrome

This is my old YJ after I sprayed it.

thats a little to flashy for my tastes.
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Old 04-07-2008, 09:27 AM   #28
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thats a little to flashy for my tastes.
Thats the result of boredom...
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Old 04-07-2008, 09:36 AM   #29
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On the final wipe down don't use mineral spirits, use acetone or prep-sol, mineral will leave a residue, acetone and prep-sol won't. Then self etching primer, two coats, the color, thin coats about 20 min apart. Thats how I did my front and rear skids on the XJ and they are still going strong after I redid them two summers ago. On my TJ's bumpers I stripped with aircraft stripper to get the old whatever was on there, went after with with a combination of sanding discs on my milwalkee drill then switched to the small 3m pads to get into some tight areas then emory cloth wrapped around a rat tail file to get inside the shackle tabs. Final wipe with acetone, then Rustoleum primer, Rustoleum paint and let it sit out in the sun from 10am till around 3pm. Did the same with my front sway bar when I noticed it was sticking in the mounts, removed it, replaced the bushings, stripped and sanded the sway bar, wiped with laquer thinner, hung it from a tree and repainted with a Rustoleum primer and then Rustoleum candy apple red metallic, looks good after a year and I don't have the 'JEEP' plastic cover on it either.
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Old 04-07-2008, 04:34 PM   #30
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On the final wipe down don't use mineral spirits, use acetone or prep-sol, mineral will leave a residue, acetone and prep-sol won't. Then self etching primer, two coats, the color, thin coats about 20 min apart. Thats how I did my front and rear skids on the XJ and they are still going strong after I redid them two summers ago. On my TJ's bumpers I stripped with aircraft stripper to get the old whatever was on there, went after with with a combination of sanding discs on my milwalkee drill then switched to the small 3m pads to get into some tight areas then emory cloth wrapped around a rat tail file to get inside the shackle tabs. Final wipe with acetone, then Rustoleum primer, Rustoleum paint and let it sit out in the sun from 10am till around 3pm. Did the same with my front sway bar when I noticed it was sticking in the mounts, removed it, replaced the bushings, stripped and sanded the sway bar, wiped with laquer thinner, hung it from a tree and repainted with a Rustoleum primer and then Rustoleum candy apple red metallic, looks good after a year and I don't have the 'JEEP' plastic cover on it either.
Listen to this one, he is a wise man Deffinately use prep-sol or acetone for your final clean before the primer, and if you have a choice go with prep-sol. Acetone will be fine if you got it laying around, but if your gonna buy some stuff, I would go prep-sol.

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