pics of tj with 8" of lift and any tires between 33 and 37" - Page 2 - Jeep Wrangler Forum
Jeep Wrangler Forum

Go Back   Jeep Wrangler Forum > TJ Jeep Wrangler Forum > TJ General Discussion Forum

Join Wrangler Forum Today


Reply
 
Thread Tools

Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about them on WranglerForum.com
Old 01-05-2011, 04:34 PM   #31
Creepy Crawler

WF Supporting Member
 
BLK00TJ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 3,194
Do you have any pictures of your Jeep? I'd like to see a before and after shot.

BLK00TJ is online now   Quote Quick Reply
Old 01-05-2011, 06:35 PM   #32
Jeeper

WF Supporting Member
 
marine13's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Horn Lake, MS
Posts: 184
With all the anger I'm starting to feel like I'm on the Jeep Forum!



Good luck with your extremely tall Jeep! That's what I like about Jeeps. You can set them up how you want. No two are exactly the same.

Really tall trucks and Jeeps aren't my thing but to each their own. Put some pics on here when you are done.

I would say though that these guys on here are a wealth of information about Jeeps. They have prevented me from buying cool stuff like programming chips and cold air intakes and wasting my money. They have also helped me diagnose a problem with my Jeep that saved me repair costs. I try to learn from their experience from their previous mistakes.

__________________
Delta State University Fighting Okra
I ain't good as I once was but I'm as good once as I ever was......
marine13 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 01-05-2011, 06:37 PM   #33
Jeeper
 
Work4Mud's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Roanoke, Va
Posts: 401
Send a message via Yahoo to Work4Mud
I was searching craigslist for jeeps and found this, actually gonna post this in a thread and see what everyone thinks about it but thought it might also help your cause.

View Inventory
__________________
The three most common expressions (or famous last words) in aviation are:
- "Why is it doing that?",
- "Where are we?"
- and "Oh Sh!t!"

Work4Mud is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 01-05-2011, 07:08 PM   #34
Jeeper
 
bobjenkins's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 3,646
Quote:
Originally Posted by UnlimitedLJ04
Thats about 20% of it.

Changing lift height changes all that stuff you claim to have corrected, again.

And what "works"? Define "works"? If you're junk isn't tested to the max, properly setup in many respects then it doesn't "work". Ignorance is bliss on this subject.

Yup, lots of people only understand 20% of their suspension, so you're not alone. You don't know what you don't know, and you need to learn more so you can setup a rig that truely works. Again, ignorance is bliss...and you think you know everything...so do whatever you want. Don't say we didn't try to warn you...

Whats wrong with 3 to 4" of lift & 33s? You make it sound like lift height has something to do with tire size...it DOES NOT. They are completely independent.

FWIW, Theres a reason this is such a common setup...well, with proper bumpstop extensions it plain works...for real "works". Not inexperienced mechanics thinks it "works" kinda works.

that would be a good start, but with the pinion rotation required, you'll most likely need to cut the upper spring perch off and relocate it. If you add Nth Degree's spring relocators, you'll gain almost 2" of lift just with the relocation. Superlift and BlueTorchFab also sell good kits to use, or you can relocate the stock perches. Don't forget about outboarding your shocks, this would be a necessary mod if you actually intend to run 7" of lift and make it "work".

Tires are the least of your concern.
So list to make it work...
1. Taller springs of proper lift height, with no spacers. 6" Skyjacker, 7.5" or 5.5" Rubicon Express, 6" Teraflex, 6" Rock Krawler...whatever your personal choice is.
2. Long arm's - I'd recommend the Clayton Off-road or PolyPerformance kits. Poly Perf also sells outboarded rear shock kits that will work well with it. You'll want to upper tri-link the rear to ditch the track bar, and you might want to consider an upper tri-link in front, you might have room to clear the necessary truss with the bumpstop extension you'll need to clear the 6" lift shocks.
3. Bumpstop extensions. These are probably the most important thing you can do, and if you understand why and how they work....preventing shocks from bottoming out, preventing spring damage due to overcompression, and lastly, for tire clearance...then you'll be doing all right. The length of extension and geometry is very important for all lift heights.
4. Longer brake lines front and rear to work with the suspension described in #2. And springs to keep them out of the way of suspension travel.
5. Limit straps to prevent the shocks from bottoming out, and prevent the springs from completely unseating.
6. Cutting the front track bar mount off the frame and welding on a double shear mount with a flex joint. TnT customs sells a nice one.
7. Ditch what you have admitted is a body lift with collapsed mounts. Install new body mounts. You won't need a BL to fit 35s with 6" of lift. If you want to fit larger tires, you'll need to move to 1-ton axles anyway.
8. Brakes - 35s requires bigger brakes. Vanco sells a nice kit...get the 16" version with dual piston 48mm calipers, or even the 17" Raptor kit.
9. Roll cage. The increased height will increase the chance of roll-over. Heavier tires and heavier suspension components reduce the effectiveness of an already ineffective roll cage. The stock B and C-pillars are a good starting point, but the whole front half to the A pillar is useless.

lack of money is not an excuse for having a crap Jeep that is improperly setup. You can always go back to stock, which was setup by a team of engineers far smarter than you and I.

I've got a masters in mechanical engineering from one of the top 50 schools in the country, but who cares? It's not relevent to the discussion at hand. Suck up your pride, get off your high horse, close your mouth, open your ears, read more and learn something. I don't care if you're the miracle child of Sheba, your comments thus far have shown significant ignorance with regard to the setup of the system you don't know you need for the lift height you want.

Again, what someone else has isn't relevent to the discussion. What "works" varies greatly in people's definitions. Some people, including lift kit companies, think 4" of lift & 15" collapsed length shocks, with no bumpstop extensions works...and its probably the most commonly sold setup...but I'll tell you right now it doesn't work. Add 2" bumpstop extensions in front and 2-3" in rear and it works, but I challenge you to find how many people actually understand why.

Similarly, some people think 35's and stock brakes "works", but it doesn't. Some claim they can stop effectively, but they cannot. The TJ's brakes have significant design flaws, and with bigger tires these become very dangerous.

I sure can, read the following:
OME 2.5", No BL - 32 or 33's????? - Page 2 - JeepForum.com
http://www.wranglerforum.com/f5/corr...gth-70047.html
bumpstops, shock length, and tires size. help me iron out the fuzzy points.. - JeepForum.com

Yup, that is very common. 0.75" or 1", no problem. 2"+ and you've got problems. The point - if you didn't understand that, read those links again. Springs compress into a physical size, and 2" spacers will reduce the space springs have to compress into, therefore you need to extend your bumpstops more than usual to prevent spring damage. That means you loose uptravel over lift springs of the proper size. and uptravel is 50% of the point of a lift.

If you understand how the suspension works, you use 0.75" to 1" spacers to level the front as you see fit. In fact, I've got 0.75" spacers in front to level out my Jeep a bit. But I also know my 933 OME shocks will fully compress into about 8", which fits inside the stock jounce tower with stock bumpstop extensions. But I've added 0.75" spacers, so I need to extend the bumpstops at least 0.75" to give the springs the same 8" of compression space. In reality, I've added 1-3/8" bumpstop extensions to the front, to prevent the track bar from hitting the modified diff cover, and prevent the track bar from hitting the tie-rod. Giving the springs at least 5/8" more than stock for compression space. And because I've got 1-3/8" bumpstops, I was able to extend my 13.3" collapsed length shocks by 1", effectively making them 14.3" collapsed length, and gaining 1" of downtravel out of them.

It is absolutely imperative you check both front and rear suspensions at full compression, with the springs and jounce bumper removed. That tests for suspension interferences. Flex tests are only for testing tire clearance on the steel fenders & flares.

If you want to "level" or gain more than 1" in front or rear, you need to research spring rates and spring lengths, and buy a different spring that fits your needs better. Stiffer, longer or whatever. Some folks buy 4" front springs and 3" rear springs, which isn't a bad way to go if you have a heavy bumper and winch. or put your jeep on a diet and loose some weight.
Great post . There are a lot of people reading and applying this advice contrary to what it.might seem.

I have one question . How does lifting shorten wheelbase?

Edit . Whoops I was thinking wheel base as is width of jeep not front to back I see how it works.
bobjenkins is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 01-05-2011, 07:12 PM   #35
Jeeper
 
oIIIIIIo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 676
Quote:
Originally Posted by tony81 View Post
personally I think 33's with that much lift will look ridiculous, but it is your jeep and you should build it the way you want it. With that said, lifting your jeep to that height will highly increase your chance of rollover. I run 33's with a little over 3" of lift in order to help maintain a lower center of gravity. Here is a pic of my rig. (just got done of Christmas I'll get to drive it in 3 weeks when I get back from Afghanistan)
tony81- the rig with the blue tarp over it...looks like an awesome beast you got there!
__________________
2000 TJ, I6, Auto
oIIIIIIo is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 01-05-2011, 07:36 PM   #36
Jeeper
 
UnlimitedLJ04's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 7,062
Quote:
Originally Posted by bobjenkins View Post
Great post . There are a lot of people reading and applying this advice contrary to what it.might seem.

I have one question . How does lifting shorten wheelbase?

Edit . Whoops I was thinking wheel base as is width of jeep not front to back I see how it works.
Lifting does change wheelbase - at ride height. The 6-7" lift proposed by the original poster will really show that with short arms. The short arms will also exacerbate what I call the "skidsteer" effect, a result of the axle travel arcs - the control arms will bind on the mounts, the track bar mounts will be severely stressed with axle rotation, the shocks will rub on the mounts due to the severe wheelbase loss under droop, and as I stated before, the springs will not have enough space to compress properly with the spacers installed. If he installs the bumpstops required to make it work, he'll lose uptravel. If he keeps his existing shocks, but is smart enough to install proper bumpstop extensions, he'll not only lose uptravel but also downtravel...he'll basically end up with something like 6" travel with 10" travel shocks. If he's smart enough to install longer shocks for the increased height, he'll unseat the springs. In the rear, they may even completely out fall out. If he doesn't install bumpstop extensions, but installs the longer shocks, he'll bottom out the shocks pretty significantly and probably rip a shock mount apart.

What he should do is check the compressed height of the lift springs in a shop press first. Then install the spacers (with springs removed), and the equivalent length of bumpstop extensions front and rear. Then add the additional bumpstop extension height to equal the compressed height requirement determined earlier in the shop press. Then install the shocks and drop the Jeep down onto the axles, with the jounce bumper removed with no springs installed, just like you did bobjenkins...then use adjustable long arms to center the tires at full bump. Then install the springs and do a flex test on the RTI ramp to make sure the tires clear at full jounce bumper compression on one side.

But hey, that would be doing it right...meaning it would "work". Then he'd realize he just lost uptravel unnecessarily, realizing he should have just bought taller springs.
UnlimitedLJ04 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 01-05-2011, 08:13 PM   #37
Jeeper
 
bobjenkins's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 3,646
Quote:
Originally Posted by UnlimitedLJ04

Lifting does change wheelbase - at ride height. The 6-7" lift proposed by the original poster will really show that with short arms. The short arms will also exacerbate what I call the "skidsteer" effect, a result of the axle travel arcs - the control arms will bind on the mounts, the track bar mounts will be severely stressed with axle rotation, the shocks will rub on the mounts due to the severe wheelbase loss under droop, and as I stated before, the springs will not have enough space to compress properly with the spacers installed. If he installs the bumpstops required to make it work, he'll lose uptravel. If he keeps his existing shocks, but is smart enough to install proper bumpstop extensions, he'll not only lose uptravel but also downtravel...he'll basically end up with something like 6" travel with 10" travel shocks. If he's smart enough to install longer shocks for the increased height, he'll unseat the springs. In the rear, they may even completely out fall out. If he doesn't install bumpstop extensions, but installs the longer shocks, he'll bottom out the shocks pretty significantly and probably rip a shock mount apart.

What he should do is check the compressed height of the lift springs in a shop press first. Then install the spacers (with springs removed), and the equivalent length of bumpstop extensions front and rear. Then add the additional bumpstop extension height to equal the compressed height requirement determined earlier in the shop press. Then install the shocks and drop the Jeep down onto the axles, with the jounce bumper removed with no springs installed, just like you did bobjenkins...then use adjustable long arms to center the tires at full bump. Then install the springs and do a flex test on the RTI ramp to make sure the tires clear at full jounce bumper compression on one side.

But hey, that would be doing it right...meaning it would "work". Then he'd realize he just lost uptravel unnecessarily, realizing he should have just bought taller springs.
Thanks for the great info !
bobjenkins is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 01-09-2011, 11:33 PM   #38
Jeeper
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 53
I've been posting from my phone but as soon as I can get to a computer will post before and after pics. It rides just like it did before after adjusting everything. I wasn't looking for a perfect jeep, but I do appreciate everybodys time and knowledge whether it is what I wanted to hear or not. I knew the 33s would look small and not ideal for that much lift, and I am working on getting some new meats. I wouldn't mind some advice. Either 35s or 37s. I've been told the 30 up front can handle 35s. But would it be ok with 37s as long as I'm not doing anything severe? The dana 44 in the rear I'm not sure about. I know its tough but can that handle 37s ? Its geared for the 33s possibly a little to tall so they shouldn't be too bad with 35s and with 37s it would be pushin it but I don't mind. I didn't buy a jeep to go fast. I'm going more for the looks right nw until its paid off in a few years I may change it up then and do some wheeling with it. As far as brakes go what kinds of upgrades do I need? Its all stock except the hoses now? Which the stock ones where long enough till the proper ones came in.
jacked06tj is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 01-09-2011, 11:53 PM   #39
Knows a couple things...

WF Supporting Member
 
Jerry Bransford's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Escondido, Calif.
Posts: 30,878
Images: 2
The D30 and D44 are fine with 35" tires, that size is the upper limit for either however. I have had several opportunities to install 37" tires but have stayed with 35" though my axles have been beefed up with alloy axle shafts and CTM u-joints up front to go with my front axle's 30 spline Superior Axle chromolly alloy shafts. The biggest problem with 37" tires is that neither the Dana 30 nor the Rubicon's front Dana 44 are up to 37" tires. One more thing to know, the Rubicon's Dana 44 is a Dana 30 from the axle tubes out including the knuckles, ball joints, brakes, axle tubes, and outer axle shaft stubs.
__________________
When you have a choice, buy American.

Jerry Bransford is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 01-09-2011, 11:58 PM   #40
Jeeper
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: NW burbs IL
Posts: 1,071
Can we see pix of this tj on 33's with those spacers? I'm running stock springs and shocks I could get the springs loose flex'n(got coil spring retainers now) I'd be afraid to wheel my Jeep with spacers. this post has been helpful to me... reminding me to stay away from spacers. personally I like i low, it has more attitude. I have 33s as well and don't rub not even a full flex
97flexy is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 01-10-2011, 12:03 AM   #41
Jeeper
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: NW burbs IL
Posts: 1,071
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford View Post
The D30 and D44 are fine with 35" tires, that size is the upper limit for either however. I have had several opportunities to install 37" tires but have stayed with 35" though my axles have been beefed up with alloy axle shafts and CTM u-joints up front to go with my front axle's 30 spline Superior Axle chromolly alloy shafts. The biggest problem with 37" tires is that neither the Dana 30 nor the Rubicon's front Dana 44 are up to 37" tires. One more thing to know, the Rubicon's Dana 44 is a Dana 30 from the axle tubes out including the knuckles, ball joints, brakes, axle tubes, and outer axle shaft stubs.
I went to school for mechanics & i know 35's are pushing it on a D30&D35 and 37s are outta the question. but its cool "jacked06tj" must be different teaching in different schools.
97flexy is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 01-10-2011, 09:06 AM   #42
Sponsoring Vendor
 
Ibuildembig's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Fruitland, Missouri
Posts: 8,322
Here's my old mans with 33's on stock moabs with spacers....doing fine for over 4 years now
Ibuildembig is online now   Quote Quick Reply
Old 01-10-2011, 09:28 AM   #43
Jeeper
 
tracy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: winnie tx
Posts: 214
Images: 5
mine has 8 1/4 with 37's (profile pics)
tracy is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 01-10-2011, 12:38 PM   #44
Jeeper
 
lancetkenyon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: AZ-Rock heaven
Posts: 670
If you want to run 35s and not rub, just add 1" bumpstop extensions. That will make up the difference between 33s and 35s and it will not rub any more than it does now. At MOST, you could add 3/4" spacers on top of your springs, but don't do 2" spacers.

Here is my rig with 4" suspension lift, 1" body lift on 39s. Sure, it is cut up, but it still flexes pretty good. The rear is not trimmed up any higher than stock, just back for the stretch. The front is cut up though.





lancetkenyon is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 01-11-2011, 12:15 AM   #45
Jeeper
 
Steve Loves Jeeps's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Stanhope, NJ
Posts: 87
Quote:
Originally Posted by UnlimitedLJ04 View Post
Thats about 20% of it.


Changing lift height changes all that stuff you claim to have corrected, again.

And what "works"? Define "works"? If you're junk isn't tested to the max, properly setup in many respects then it doesn't "work". Ignorance is bliss on this subject.


Yup, lots of people only understand 20% of their suspension, so you're not alone. You don't know what you don't know, and you need to learn more so you can setup a rig that truely works. Again, ignorance is bliss...and you think you know everything...so do whatever you want. Don't say we didn't try to warn you...


Whats wrong with 3 to 4" of lift & 33s? You make it sound like lift height has something to do with tire size...it DOES NOT. They are completely independent.

FWIW, Theres a reason this is such a common setup...well, with proper bumpstop extensions it plain works...for real "works". Not inexperienced mechanics thinks it "works" kinda works.


that would be a good start, but with the pinion rotation required, you'll most likely need to cut the upper spring perch off and relocate it. If you add Nth Degree's spring relocators, you'll gain almost 2" of lift just with the relocation. Superlift and BlueTorchFab also sell good kits to use, or you can relocate the stock perches. Don't forget about outboarding your shocks, this would be a necessary mod if you actually intend to run 7" of lift and make it "work".


Tires are the least of your concern.
So list to make it work...
1. Taller springs of proper lift height, with no spacers. 6" Skyjacker, 7.5" or 5.5" Rubicon Express, 6" Teraflex, 6" Rock Krawler...whatever your personal choice is.
2. Long arm's - I'd recommend the Clayton Off-road or PolyPerformance kits. Poly Perf also sells outboarded rear shock kits that will work well with it. You'll want to upper tri-link the rear to ditch the track bar, and you might want to consider an upper tri-link in front, you might have room to clear the necessary truss with the bumpstop extension you'll need to clear the 6" lift shocks.
3. Bumpstop extensions. These are probably the most important thing you can do, and if you understand why and how they work....preventing shocks from bottoming out, preventing spring damage due to overcompression, and lastly, for tire clearance...then you'll be doing all right. The length of extension and geometry is very important for all lift heights.
4. Longer brake lines front and rear to work with the suspension described in #2. And springs to keep them out of the way of suspension travel.
5. Limit straps to prevent the shocks from bottoming out, and prevent the springs from completely unseating.
6. Cutting the front track bar mount off the frame and welding on a double shear mount with a flex joint. TnT customs sells a nice one.
7. Ditch what you have admitted is a body lift with collapsed mounts. Install new body mounts. You won't need a BL to fit 35s with 6" of lift. If you want to fit larger tires, you'll need to move to 1-ton axles anyway.
8. Brakes - 35s requires bigger brakes. Vanco sells a nice kit...get the 16" version with dual piston 48mm calipers, or even the 17" Raptor kit.
9. Roll cage. The increased height will increase the chance of roll-over. Heavier tires and heavier suspension components reduce the effectiveness of an already ineffective roll cage. The stock B and C-pillars are a good starting point, but the whole front half to the A pillar is useless.


lack of money is not an excuse for having a crap Jeep that is improperly setup. You can always go back to stock, which was setup by a team of engineers far smarter than you and I.


I've got a masters in mechanical engineering from one of the top 50 schools in the country, but who cares? It's not relevent to the discussion at hand. Suck up your pride, get off your high horse, close your mouth, open your ears, read more and learn something. I don't care if you're the miracle child of Sheba, your comments thus far have shown significant ignorance with regard to the setup of the system you don't know you need for the lift height you want.


Again, what someone else has isn't relevent to the discussion. What "works" varies greatly in people's definitions. Some people, including lift kit companies, think 4" of lift & 15" collapsed length shocks, with no bumpstop extensions works...and its probably the most commonly sold setup...but I'll tell you right now it doesn't work. Add 2" bumpstop extensions in front and 2-3" in rear and it works, but I challenge you to find how many people actually understand why.

Similarly, some people think 35's and stock brakes "works", but it doesn't. Some claim they can stop effectively, but they cannot. The TJ's brakes have significant design flaws, and with bigger tires these become very dangerous.



I sure can, read the following:
OME 2.5", No BL - 32 or 33's????? - Page 2 - JeepForum.com
http://www.wranglerforum.com/f5/corr...gth-70047.html
bumpstops, shock length, and tires size. help me iron out the fuzzy points.. - JeepForum.com


Yup, that is very common. 0.75" or 1", no problem. 2"+ and you've got problems. The point - if you didn't understand that, read those links again. Springs compress into a physical size, and 2" spacers will reduce the space springs have to compress into, therefore you need to extend your bumpstops more than usual to prevent spring damage. That means you loose uptravel over lift springs of the proper size. and uptravel is 50% of the point of a lift.


If you understand how the suspension works, you use 0.75" to 1" spacers to level the front as you see fit. In fact, I've got 0.75" spacers in front to level out my Jeep a bit. But I also know my 933 OME shocks will fully compress into about 8", which fits inside the stock jounce tower with stock bumpstop extensions. But I've added 0.75" spacers, so I need to extend the bumpstops at least 0.75" to give the springs the same 8" of compression space. In reality, I've added 1-3/8" bumpstop extensions to the front, to prevent the track bar from hitting the modified diff cover, and prevent the track bar from hitting the tie-rod. Giving the springs at least 5/8" more than stock for compression space. And because I've got 1-3/8" bumpstops, I was able to extend my 13.3" collapsed length shocks by 1", effectively making them 14.3" collapsed length, and gaining 1" of downtravel out of them.

It is absolutely imperative you check both front and rear suspensions at full compression, with the springs and jounce bumper removed. That tests for suspension interferences. Flex tests are only for testing tire clearance on the steel fenders & flares.

If you want to "level" or gain more than 1" in front or rear, you need to research spring rates and spring lengths, and buy a different spring that fits your needs better. Stiffer, longer or whatever. Some folks buy 4" front springs and 3" rear springs, which isn't a bad way to go if you have a heavy bumper and winch. or put your jeep on a diet and loose some weight.
Out of honest curiosity, where did you go to school?
I am currently going for a Bachelor's in Mech Eng at Stevens with a concentration in Automotive
Steve Loves Jeeps is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 01-20-2011, 07:54 AM   #46
Jeeper
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 53
Lift is all done now. Got my 35s. Looks bad a**. Traded my 33s even up for some 35s. Now how would I post a pic? Don't I need photobucket or something like that?
jacked06tj is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 01-20-2011, 09:19 AM   #47
Jeeper
 
neverfastenough1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Savannah, Ga
Posts: 925
Quote:
Originally Posted by UnlimitedLJ04 View Post
never claimed i could spell
I think he was being sarcastic because apparently some people think every word should be correctly spelled, if not you must be ignorant. Just don't know how you can correct someone with attitude if you say that you have looked at some of your own post and wondered if you typed with your elbows. Anyways, on topic, here's some 8" lift, and the one with 35's I have to admit looks like a Tonka toy, even more than usual.

http://www.myjeeplj.com/gallery/8.0inch/35/16.html

Should have put this one in....

http://www.myjeeplj.com/gallery/8.0inch/16.html
neverfastenough1 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 01-20-2011, 09:25 AM   #48
Jeeper
 
neverfastenough1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Savannah, Ga
Posts: 925
Great, should have looked at the date before I posted, or at least the second page. Sorry for being useless and late.
neverfastenough1 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 01-20-2011, 09:26 AM   #49
Jeeper
 
neverfastenough1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Savannah, Ga
Posts: 925
Quote:
Originally Posted by jacked06tj View Post
Lift is all done now. Got my 35s. Looks bad a**. Traded my 33s even up for some 35s. Now how would I post a pic? Don't I need photobucket or something like that?
I just post them right off my thumb drive. Hope thats not illegal for some forum reason.
neverfastenough1 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 01-20-2011, 01:34 PM   #50
Jeeper
 
Apex28's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Fort Lauderdale
Posts: 104
Images: 3
10in TJ

I dont think anyone ever asked what he planed to do with his TJ??? I currently live in Fort Lauderdale and if you've never been here it's flat very very flat! I set mine up for looking good and going through mud and high water. I have 10in on it 8in Fabtech Rock Crawler with rear tri link and one in spacer in front to compensate for the Warn Powerplant w/ synthetic rope, and 1in Daystar body replacement bushings bc the extra space is sometimes needed above the t-case when you install this long arm lift kit. If I move or take it any where serious I would swap in some 6in coils for sure. And I'm running 37s . I did have 38.5 14.50s on it but couldnt flex even with one in wheel spacers, now I can lift one wheel off the ground 31in b4 any others loose sight of terra firma and it didnt even feel like it was going to flip. I took a bath on that deal. It looks like a tonka toy sure, its my toy. Mostly it is seen on beautiful suncoast days with the top off "Right near the beach". I know this is a little late but dont give people like this such a hard time you build a Jeep up to fit your own needs which is directly affected by your bank act. I know how to do things right I have installed every major lift kit manufacture, and a few custom ones too. I also know how to cut corners and get the job done cheap when its called for. And I say if you want to run spacers do it , if you want a tall Jeep build it. I'm LOVE putting things where they dont belong lol if it feels good and makes you happy god bless you!!!

I'd like to thank Phrankoff for the awesome link.

My pictures coming soon dont have any recent ones right now check my profile after this weekend hopefully it wont be raining I think its supposed to ...
Apex28 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 01-20-2011, 01:53 PM   #51
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: League City (Houston) TX
Posts: 916
I can tell someone slept through most of high school. Might I suggest going down to the local library and picking up a few books..those are what appears to have been your pillow in school. The brain responds to stimuli similar to other muscles in the body.This is quite possibly the worst thread I have ever seen.
clear lake jeepn is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 01-20-2011, 03:16 PM   #52
Jeeper
 
Apex28's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Fort Lauderdale
Posts: 104
Images: 3
Quote:
Originally Posted by clear lake jeepn View Post
I can tell someone slept through most of high school. Might I suggest going down to the local library and picking up a few books..those are what appears to have been your pillow in school. The brain responds to stimuli similar to other muscles in the body.This is quite possibly the worst thread I have ever seen.
I was bored didn't know this was such a hard core site lol.
I actually think this site is more for working on grammer and spelling after reading peoples messages like yours. My point may have been missed by some of the people on this site with sticks where they dont belong.
Apex28 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 02-24-2011, 03:27 PM   #53
Jeeper
 
tracy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: winnie tx
Posts: 214
Images: 5
^^ ??
tracy is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 02-24-2011, 03:33 PM   #54
Jeeper
 
JeepCreeper's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Garth Brooks, Oklahoma
Posts: 545
Quote:
Originally Posted by jacked06tj View Post
I may only be 19, but I'm a full time mechanic with my lisences. I know what's involved in lifting a jeep, i and its all done already. Gears trac bars sway bar links, everything is done. It only needs the spacers and brakelines and adjustments to the existing components. And my body lift is probly more like 1.5 because the bushings are extra squished. And the spaces are really 1.75 but more like 1.5 after it settles so it'll b more like 7". I have wider wheels now but plan on getting spacers. I like to mess around sometimes but this one is mine for atleast 5 more years[length of loan lol] so I'm not trying to destroy it yet. Its got a dana 44 in the back and the 30 in the front is good for 35's. I know what's involved. And thank you to the english teacher in the thread. Am I being graded? Come up with something constructive to add. Now if anybody has any pictures id appreciate it. Thanks
Its licenses. Kidding.
JeepCreeper is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 04-09-2011, 11:43 AM   #55
Newb
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by jacked06tj View Post
Lift is all done now. Got my 35s. Looks bad a**. Traded my 33s even up for some 35s. Now how would I post a pic? Don't I need photobucket or something like that?
Did you ever get some pics for us? Any of the photo sites should work.
jerrytrim is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 04-09-2011, 02:44 PM   #56
Jeep Ninja

WF Supporting Member
 
scgeek12's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Norfolk VA
Posts: 1,825
Angry

Quote:
Originally Posted by UnlimitedLJ04 View Post
Thats about 20% of it.


Changing lift height changes all that stuff you claim to have corrected, again.

And what "works"? Define "works"? If you're junk isn't tested to the max, properly setup in many respects then it doesn't "work". Ignorance is bliss on this subject.


Yup, lots of people only understand 20% of their suspension, so you're not alone. You don't know what you don't know, and you need to learn more so you can setup a rig that truely works. Again, ignorance is bliss...and you think you know everything...so do whatever you want. Don't say we didn't try to warn you...


Whats wrong with 3 to 4" of lift & 33s? You make it sound like lift height has something to do with tire size...it DOES NOT. They are completely independent.

FWIW, Theres a reason this is such a common setup...well, with proper bumpstop extensions it plain works...for real "works". Not inexperienced mechanics thinks it "works" kinda works.


that would be a good start, but with the pinion rotation required, you'll most likely need to cut the upper spring perch off and relocate it. If you add Nth Degree's spring relocators, you'll gain almost 2" of lift just with the relocation. Superlift and BlueTorchFab also sell good kits to use, or you can relocate the stock perches. Don't forget about outboarding your shocks, this would be a necessary mod if you actually intend to run 7" of lift and make it "work".


Tires are the least of your concern.
So list to make it work...
1. Taller springs of proper lift height, with no spacers. 6" Skyjacker, 7.5" or 5.5" Rubicon Express, 6" Teraflex, 6" Rock Krawler...whatever your personal choice is.
2. Long arm's - I'd recommend the Clayton Off-road or PolyPerformance kits. Poly Perf also sells outboarded rear shock kits that will work well with it. You'll want to upper tri-link the rear to ditch the track bar, and you might want to consider an upper tri-link in front, you might have room to clear the necessary truss with the bumpstop extension you'll need to clear the 6" lift shocks.
3. Bumpstop extensions. These are probably the most important thing you can do, and if you understand why and how they work....preventing shocks from bottoming out, preventing spring damage due to overcompression, and lastly, for tire clearance...then you'll be doing all right. The length of extension and geometry is very important for all lift heights.
4. Longer brake lines front and rear to work with the suspension described in #2. And springs to keep them out of the way of suspension travel.
5. Limit straps to prevent the shocks from bottoming out, and prevent the springs from completely unseating.
6. Cutting the front track bar mount off the frame and welding on a double shear mount with a flex joint. TnT customs sells a nice one.
7. Ditch what you have admitted is a body lift with collapsed mounts. Install new body mounts. You won't need a BL to fit 35s with 6" of lift. If you want to fit larger tires, you'll need to move to 1-ton axles anyway.
8. Brakes - 35s requires bigger brakes. Vanco sells a nice kit...get the 16" version with dual piston 48mm calipers, or even the 17" Raptor kit.
9. Roll cage. The increased height will increase the chance of roll-over. Heavier tires and heavier suspension components reduce the effectiveness of an already ineffective roll cage. The stock B and C-pillars are a good starting point, but the whole front half to the A pillar is useless.


lack of money is not an excuse for having a crap Jeep that is improperly setup. You can always go back to stock, which was setup by a team of engineers far smarter than you and I.


I've got a masters in mechanical engineering from one of the top 50 schools in the country, but who cares? It's not relevent to the discussion at hand. Suck up your pride, get off your high horse, close your mouth, open your ears, read more and learn something. I don't care if you're the miracle child of Sheba, your comments thus far have shown significant ignorance with regard to the setup of the system you don't know you need for the lift height you want.


Again, what someone else has isn't relevent to the discussion. What "works" varies greatly in people's definitions. Some people, including lift kit companies, think 4" of lift & 15" collapsed length shocks, with no bumpstop extensions works...and its probably the most commonly sold setup...but I'll tell you right now it doesn't work. Add 2" bumpstop extensions in front and 2-3" in rear and it works, but I challenge you to find how many people actually understand why.

Similarly, some people think 35's and stock brakes "works", but it doesn't. Some claim they can stop effectively, but they cannot. The TJ's brakes have significant design flaws, and with bigger tires these become very dangerous.



I sure can, read the following:
OME 2.5", No BL - 32 or 33's????? - Page 2 - JeepForum.com
http://www.wranglerforum.com/f5/corr...gth-70047.html
bumpstops, shock length, and tires size. help me iron out the fuzzy points.. - JeepForum.com


Yup, that is very common. 0.75" or 1", no problem. 2"+ and you've got problems. The point - if you didn't understand that, read those links again. Springs compress into a physical size, and 2" spacers will reduce the space springs have to compress into, therefore you need to extend your bumpstops more than usual to prevent spring damage. That means you loose uptravel over lift springs of the proper size. and uptravel is 50% of the point of a lift.


If you understand how the suspension works, you use 0.75" to 1" spacers to level the front as you see fit. In fact, I've got 0.75" spacers in front to level out my Jeep a bit. But I also know my 933 OME shocks will fully compress into about 8", which fits inside the stock jounce tower with stock bumpstop extensions. But I've added 0.75" spacers, so I need to extend the bumpstops at least 0.75" to give the springs the same 8" of compression space. In reality, I've added 1-3/8" bumpstop extensions to the front, to prevent the track bar from hitting the modified diff cover, and prevent the track bar from hitting the tie-rod. Giving the springs at least 5/8" more than stock for compression space. And because I've got 1-3/8" bumpstops, I was able to extend my 13.3" collapsed length shocks by 1", effectively making them 14.3" collapsed length, and gaining 1" of downtravel out of them.

It is absolutely imperative you check both front and rear suspensions at full compression, with the springs and jounce bumper removed. That tests for suspension interferences. Flex tests are only for testing tire clearance on the steel fenders & flares.

If you want to "level" or gain more than 1" in front or rear, you need to research spring rates and spring lengths, and buy a different spring that fits your needs better. Stiffer, longer or whatever. Some folks buy 4" front springs and 3" rear springs, which isn't a bad way to go if you have a heavy bumper and winch. or put your jeep on a diet and loose some weight.

my head hurts from reading that LOL
scgeek12 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 04-09-2011, 02:56 PM   #57
M_
Jeeper

WF Supporting Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 2,009
Images: 1
I saw an expedition on craigslist back in December with 24" of lift on 44" ground hogs it was ridiculous
M_ is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 01-02-2014, 09:17 PM   #58
Jeeper
 
GoldenEagle's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 295
while this thread has been dead for a couple years.... we never got to see the picture of the jeep.... and honestly? its probably been tipped over by now. so we never will. bummer!
GoldenEagle is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 01-03-2014, 06:14 AM   #59
Jeeper
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 570
Quote:
Originally Posted by GoldenEagle View Post
while this thread has been dead for a couple years.... we never got to see the picture of the jeep.... and honestly? its probably been tipped over by now. so we never will. bummer!
Maybe the owner got his "lisences" revoked for building such a ridiculous Jeep
Pink_Percy is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 01-03-2014, 03:42 PM   #60
Jeeper
 
tkfx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: La Crescenta, CA
Posts: 840
What a enjoyable thread to read. I did a double take when I looked at the dates! LMAO

tkfx is online now   Quote Quick Reply
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Jeep Wrangler Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



logo carid shop wrangler parts carid fender flares custom wheels store avs deflectors at carid
» Rates
Get low rates on auto insurance in Canada!

» Network Links
»Jeep Parts
» Featured Product

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 01:32 PM.



Jeep®, Wrangler, Liberty, Wagoneer, Cherokee, and Grand Cherokee are copyrighted and trademarked to Chrysler Motors LLC.
Wranglerforum.com is not in any way associated with the Chrysler Motors LLC