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Old 03-30-2014, 11:16 PM   #1
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Piston Slap? 4.0l tj sport

I've had my Wrangler for about 5 years now since it's had 45k miles put on it back then when I first got it. It now has 103k miles on it. I've noticed it has started to what I believe piston slap (where the piston is hitting the cylinder wall) very violently. It has always done it when it has been cold out, but since the last 10k miles it is very violent and it doesn't really stop till the engine is very warm and it's been driven about 10 miles. Is this normal? Because before it just did it a little and was hardly noticeable. Or is it something a lot more serious because even when the engine is warm and I give it a little gas I can still hear it a little bit. I have had an engine light on recently it's p0432 I believe and I've tried to reset it multiple time but after about a hundred miles it comes right back on. I just had an o2 sensor replaced but I don't think another could have gone bad but I don't think it would be causing the engine to do this? Any input would be greatly appreciated.

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Old 03-31-2014, 09:56 AM   #2
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Anyone?

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Old 03-31-2014, 10:01 AM   #3
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I often hear a sound like piston slap and it goes away after the engine warms a bit. I had the pan off a while back and looked for a piston skirt piece but found none. Since I run a supercharger I am a bit more concerned about such noises. I am not sure what the sound is coming from but I feel certain it is not currently a problem. Maybe someday someone will track down what is causing this. I think it is fairly common.
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Old 03-31-2014, 10:13 AM   #4
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I often hear a sound like piston slap and it goes away after the engine warms a bit. I had the pan off a while back and looked for a piston skirt piece but found none. Since I run a supercharger I am a bit more concerned about such noises. I am not sure what the sound is coming from but I feel certain it is not currently a problem. Maybe someday someone will track down what is causing this. I think it is fairly common.
Yea especially you running a supercharger on stock pistons and rods that would be pretty tough. I just didn't know if I would need to rebuild it.
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Old 03-31-2014, 10:21 AM   #5
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I would take a good look into this before you plan on driving into the ground. I lost my engine to what I believed was 'piston slap' but it was actually a bad rod bering which eventually led to my crankshaft destroying itself and later down the road blowing a hole in the side of my engine.
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Old 03-31-2014, 11:21 AM   #6
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I would take a good look into this before you plan on driving into the ground. I lost my engine to what I believed was 'piston slap' but it was actually a bad rod bering which eventually led to my crankshaft destroying itself and later down the road blowing a hole in the side of my engine.
Goodness!
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Old 03-31-2014, 11:58 AM   #7
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Goodness!
Yes quite the mess! Gonna cost me a good 2k.
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Old 03-31-2014, 01:00 PM   #8
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Is that in the JK pictured?
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Old 03-31-2014, 01:03 PM   #9
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Yes. Been sitting in the yard for about 13 weeks. Saving up money for a new engine.
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Old 03-31-2014, 01:06 PM   #10
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Golly man that stinks, sorry to hear that. Any idea what caused it or anything??
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Old 03-31-2014, 01:08 PM   #11
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Golly man that stinks, sorry to hear that. Any idea what caused it or anything??
Bad rod bearing caused all my problems. Unfortunate.
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Old 03-31-2014, 01:59 PM   #12
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Did it get progressively louder before it went bang?
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Old 03-31-2014, 02:03 PM   #13
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Did it get progressively louder before it went bang?
You bet it did! It started at a ticking noise then progressively got so loud it was obnoxious. It sounded like someone smacking a hammer against bare metal at a rapid pace.
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Old 03-31-2014, 02:26 PM   #14
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If you are losing a rod or main bearing, you'll be certain to start seeing some Babbitt metal in your oil. My experience with rod knock is the knock doesn't go away as the engine warms up.
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Old 03-31-2014, 02:54 PM   #15
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We'll I'm going to change my oil in about a hundred miles I will definitely check for metal fragments
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Old 03-31-2014, 09:49 PM   #16
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We'll I'm going to change my oil in about a hundred miles I will definitely check for metal fragments
Yes check for metal shavings in your oil pan. I hope you've been changing your oil at recommended intervals.
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Old 03-31-2014, 09:58 PM   #17
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Do a search here or on the web. I haven't experienced but I have read where broken piston skirts are common on some of these engines. Might be worth dropping the pan if it really sounds like piston slap. I don't know if it was year model specific or not.
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Old 03-31-2014, 10:28 PM   #18
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I always change my oil at 4000 miles and I use synthetic oil.
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Old 03-31-2014, 10:43 PM   #19
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What weight oil are you running. Both of mine have high miles, 171K on the 97 and 194.5 on the 2000. I run 10W30 conventional oil and add a bottle of STP. The 97 is pretty quiet. The 2000 has just a slight bit of valve noise but nothing like a flat lifter. Started noticing it about 30K ago.
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Old 03-31-2014, 11:11 PM   #20
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Mine has valve noise too and I'm using. Mobil 1 0w-30 all synthetic.
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Old 03-31-2014, 11:18 PM   #21
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I might try a conventional oil or at least a 10-30 or 10-40 synthetic (if they even make it) just to see if the noise goes away or gets quieter. Also, Lucas makes an all synthetic additive. My brother in law used to run Amsoil synthetic in his F150 service truck and loved it. Good luck with it.
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Old 03-31-2014, 11:25 PM   #22
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I might try a conventional oil or at least a 10-30 or 10-40 synthetic (if they even make it) just to see if the noise goes away or gets quieter. Also, Lucas makes an all synthetic additive. My brother in law used to run Amsoil synthetic in his F150 service truck and loved it. Good luck with it.
So do you think the thicker oil will fix it or just mask it up because the reason I run 0 weight oil is for the really cold winters so it has good oil pressure immediately, so should I run 0 weight in the winter and run 10 in the summer?
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Old 04-01-2014, 11:22 AM   #23
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For me, it would be more out of curiosity if the higher weight oil would make it quieter. Didn't realize you are in a really cold location but agree the synth oil would be better for that, but not sure our motors were designed for 0 weight oil either. Since you've been running it for quite a while, the 0 weight is probably ok, especially if you still have good oil pressure. If it were me, and it was still making the noise after adding heavier oil, it would probably cause me to decide to drop the pan and make sure I didn't have a broken skirt.
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Old 04-01-2014, 11:54 AM   #24
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Could also be your timing chain. When they get looser with wear, they tend to slap the metal cover a bit, and this is more noticeable at cold start up, and when the engine heats up the noise lessens. Just a thought.
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Old 04-01-2014, 11:59 AM   #25
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Could also be your timing chain. When they get looser with wear, they tend to slap the metal cover a bit, and this is more noticeable at cold start up, and when the engine heats up the noise lessens. Just a thought.
I did forget to mention that my timing chain was extremely loose and on top of all the other problems. Loose timing chain, cracked rod bering, self-destructive crankshaft, and cracked exhaust manifold.
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Old 04-01-2014, 01:36 PM   #26
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Ok I will check that as soon as I can I didn't even think about the timing chain.

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