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Old 08-10-2013, 10:25 PM   #1
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Pitman Arm Gap?

Will be moving into a new place in less than a week and trying to make sure everything is good to go on the jeep because one i wont have time and two i wont have money. So ive been doing research on various things but one thing i noticed on my jeep is theres a gap between the pitman arm and its mounting location. Not sure if its how its supposed to be or not. Sorry not the best pic.. it was meant for something else but you can see it in the pic. If i need to get a better pic i will tomorrow

Attachment 284405

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Old 08-10-2013, 10:30 PM   #2
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MIne has a gap too, but not that much. Is there any thread below the nut that screws it on?

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Old 08-10-2013, 10:56 PM   #3
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If im remembering correctly, yes theres some i can see. Will take a better look at it in the morning.. My steering has been slightly loose and thats why i got under it to check and noticed that. Could this cause that? Its not bad enough where im real worried about it but if tightening that is the fix id be real happy haha
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Old 08-10-2013, 11:27 PM   #4
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Anyone have a picture of their stock pitman arm for me to reference?
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Old 08-10-2013, 11:42 PM   #5
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Looks close to mine
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Old 08-10-2013, 11:45 PM   #6
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Thanks russ! Mine looks a little lower than that but so far two peoples have gaps. Maybe mine just needs raised up a tiny bit
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Old 08-11-2013, 07:33 AM   #7
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It's not real complex, just try and tighten up the nut. When the nut bottoms out on the step in the shaft where the threads stop, the arm is as high as it's going to go.

I actually had the opposite problem with mine. I had an aftermarket pitman arm with a fairly thick section where the steering box splines go through. It made the gap VERY small, and the tabs on a normal pitman arm puller were too wide to go in the gap.

I ended up grinding the tab area on the puller almost a 1/16 of an inch thinner to fit into the gap (which weakens the tabs). Fortunately, 2 months of leaking power steering fluid had it well lubricated and it came off with very minimal effort
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Old 08-11-2013, 10:03 AM   #8
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Ok thanks for the info. I think now im trying to figure out how much of a gap there should be if there should even be one at all?
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Old 08-11-2013, 10:09 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by giles45shop View Post
It's not real complex, just try and tighten up the nut. When the nut bottoms out on the step in the shaft where the threads stop, the arm is as high as it's going to go.
If the arm goes high enough for the nut to bottom out on the shoulder, that connection has failed and someone is going to get hurt. That is a tapered spline and it requires the arm to go high enough to mostly engage all of the splined section and still not have the nut or washer bottom out on the shoulder.

Quote:

I actually had the opposite problem with mine. I had an aftermarket pitman arm with a fairly thick section where the steering box splines go through. It made the gap VERY small, and the tabs on a normal pitman arm puller were too wide to go in the gap.
Probably not due to the thickness but more likely due to incorrect spline cutting or, the material was too soft and the sector shaft splines were wearing deeper into the arm. None of which is good.

Quote:
I ended up grinding the tab area on the puller almost a 1/16 of an inch thinner to fit into the gap (which weakens the tabs). Fortunately, 2 months of leaking power steering fluid had it well lubricated and it came off with very minimal effort
It was more likely the softer material in the arm and not the leak that made it easier to remove.
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Old 08-11-2013, 10:13 AM   #10
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Ok thanks for the info. I think now im trying to figure out how much of a gap there should be if there should even be one at all?
The gap is not relative to anything except that there should be one of some width that is fairly arbitrary. The splines are tapered, the nut and washer can NOT shoulder out and maintain the integrity of the connection.

It is a very similar connection to the TRE's and upper and lower balljoints except with splines. The tapers lock together at some height near full engagement of the both sides and the nut keeps them engaged. Tapers are very hard to machine to get the same exact amount of engagement every time so the gap will vary. Also why the upper balljoint stud floats up and down.
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Old 08-11-2013, 10:15 AM   #11
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Oh ok so basically the gaps will vary from jeep to jeep and mines ok?
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Old 08-11-2013, 10:45 AM   #12
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Oh ok so basically the gaps will vary from jeep to jeep and mines ok?
Yes, the gap is there to prevent the arm from rubbing on the end of the housing snout and little more.
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Old 08-11-2013, 10:46 AM   #13
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Perfect! Thanks a ton man
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Old 08-11-2013, 11:48 AM   #14
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yep, looks fine to me too.
play in your steering could be a number of things.
Mine was a combination of everything.
tie rods, steering box, drag link tie rod, track bar bushing. < I shudder at the thought of my ball joints going> I think I would rather sell the jeep before doing them. Or pay to have them done...
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Old 08-11-2013, 12:42 PM   #15
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Ya and its not bad. Like any other person driving it wouldnt know.. So itll have to just do for now until next summer. I wont be driving it too terribly much anyway so im not worried about it
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Old 08-11-2013, 03:57 PM   #16
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I really dig the barefoot toes in the pic
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Old 08-11-2013, 04:47 PM   #17
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I really dig the barefoot toes in the pic
Hahahah i was wondering who would comment on that...

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