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Old 12-05-2011, 10:08 PM   #1
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Planning for 35" tires

So I have poking around here and other sites trying to plan out what I am going to do to my TJ. I want to go to 35" tires just because my last truck barely fir 33s after 3sl and 3bl. Maybe I can be talked down but either way, I want to be able to drive it down the road after the trail day is over.

I saw the bit trucks! did on the TJ and they used a rusty's lift and I have read about a few other lifts here. It would be great to hear from some people that have built big and their experiences.

Thanks

Matt

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Old 12-05-2011, 11:13 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by matt_rad73 View Post
I want to go to 35" tires just because my last truck barely fir 33s after 3sl and 3bl.
What was your last truck?
I only ask because you can tuck 33's on a TJ with a 3 inch lift and highline fenders, or a 1" body lift. or some similar combination.
My buddy has either 33's or 35's ( i dont remember) on his powerstroke on an 8inch life.

Needless to say you dont need as much lift to fit those tires on a jeep.

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Old 12-05-2011, 11:19 PM   #3
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Last truck was a nissan frontier. I don't wnat to do a BL. i would rather get more suspension than just some space between the frame and the tub.
I will admit, This will be more tar than trail but I would rather do it right and be happy where ever I end up.
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Old 12-06-2011, 07:20 AM   #4
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You have a dbl post.... I post in your other thread

There's alot of different ways and options to clear 35's. The first thing I was say or recommend is looking thru the "Lift Reviews" at the top of this thread that has pics and comments about people lift kits and pros and cons they found while doing them.

One of the best way now a days is the Low COG approach. Get a 3" or 4" lift and some Tube Fenders to help clear the 35's. I've even seen some people go with 2" lifts and get the Hyline fenders to clear them.

Your next concern for 35's would have to be axles and gears, especially if you want to drive to the trail, hit the trails hard and drive home. This depends on the type of wheeling you plan on doing.... ie rock crawling, trail riding, mudding... etc.


I ran a 4" Clayton SA (short arm) kit on my Rubicon and it had some crazy flex for a 4" SA kit and I also ran Poison Spyder Tube Fenders in the front and cleared 35's with ease.
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Old 12-06-2011, 07:26 AM   #5
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Clearing 35's is easy. Reliably running them with good performance and no breakage is a whole different story.
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Old 12-06-2011, 08:27 AM   #6
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Clearing 35's is easy. Reliably running them with good performance and no breakage is a whole different story.
There we go. That's what I was going to say. So I will add to it.

You want to run 35's and drive to and from the trails. I would take a look at your axles before you even start looking at what tires you want to run. Stock axles won't take 35's for long, though Rubicon's could if you go easy.

Then look at a lift, and tires. Also don't shun body lifts for the wrangler as there is a distinct advantage when you do a small one, anything over 1 1/4" and your hurting it. Wranglers use body lifts to get flatter transmission skids, engine lift, and to lift the gas tank up to get more clearance all around.

I would, after beefing the axles, do a 2-3" suspention lift with quality parts, a 1 1/4" bodylift and tube fenders. Some don't like tube fenders so if you don't get 4" of lift.
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Old 12-06-2011, 10:31 AM   #7
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If I were to go higher from my current set of 33" tires to 35's I would:
  1. Exchange my 2" BDS suspension lift to a 4" Currie
  2. Exchange my BDS shocks with bilsteins or the tall OMEs
  3. Outboard my shocks
  4. Exchange my current steering with a CURRECTLYNC
  5. Exchange my front brakes with a VANCO upgrade
  6. Exchange my current brake lines with longer ones
  7. Install a JB SYE
  8. Install a DC rear drive shaft
  9. Exchange my D35 with an 8.8 or Super35
  10. Exchange my D30 with a Super30
  11. Exchange my 4.10 gears with an 4.56 or 4.88 (37" tires)

$$$
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Old 12-06-2011, 10:33 AM   #8
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Actually, if I did all that - I may go 37".
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Old 12-06-2011, 11:08 AM   #9
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yep...it's expensive but when done right it's AWESOME. I run 35" BFG MT KM2's and I run 4.56 yukon with dana 30 aussie up front and dana 44 rear. My lift is a bit thrown together with 3 inch lift Rusty springs up front and Pro Comps in the back with Trailmaster ssv4 shocks. I also have a body lift and LOTS of other stuff...hahaa. Basically there is no cheap way to do it. With my set up I'm turning dang near 3000 RPM's at 60mph so she isn't super friendly on the highway. I average between 13 and 14 mpg driving around the country and town. I have the 4.0 and have a spacer and airaid intake but don't see any improvement of power whatsoever from either... Um...I hope that may help.
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Old 12-06-2011, 07:16 PM   #10
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The frontier made 10-11 mph on the 33" tires so anything will be better. I live in MN so there aren't a lot of rocks to crawl over that I know of. so mostly trails that the stock TJ can handle. I just like the look of the lifted trucks. I have a 5 speed so the re gear was towards the bottom of the lis and the axle upgrade wasn't the top either.

I have read through the lift reviews and that just made my head spin. I guess now with these thoughts I am wondering how much it would take to just get the 35s to fit with a minimal or no lift. And replace the axles and gears.
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Old 12-06-2011, 07:23 PM   #11
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The cheapest, fastest, and easiest way to put big tires on a Jeep...
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Old 12-06-2011, 07:29 PM   #12
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Any Hi-Line fenders will do it with no lift. Here are GenRight fenders

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Just bought a True Hi9 rear and a D44 front, both with ARB's and 4.88 gears!! Check out the build!
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Old 12-06-2011, 08:03 PM   #13
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I've seen 33s with no lift and a highline kit and 35s for with a 2" lift on top of that
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Old 12-06-2011, 08:23 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by TheTJRod View Post
Any Hi-Line fenders will do it with no lift. Here are GenRight fenders
Sure, that'll FIT them....what about all of the weak, crappy stock suspension and steering components? What about gears to turn the big tires and locking diffs to actually take you places so you can use a big tire? Body armor to protect the tub from the nasty places that a well-built rig on 35's will take you? Lastly, you're still left with terrible breakover angle and gas tank clearance with just highlines and 35's. As I said, there's WAY, WAY more to it.
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I've seen 33s with no lift and a highline kit and 35s for with a 2" lift on top of that
There are no rules to the game. There are rigs running 40's at ~stock height with 6" of up travel.
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Old 12-06-2011, 10:42 PM   #15
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I am liking that highline kit, but where do you suggest getting the axle and gear upgrades?
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Old 12-06-2011, 11:39 PM   #16
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This is exactly what I was hoping for. To get the knowledge for you guys that have done it and learned what works and what doesn't.
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Old 12-07-2011, 12:18 AM   #17
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Here are some axle upgrades I found:


Rustys Offroad: Super 30 Front Axle Kit

Rustys Offroad: Super 35 Axle Kit

Rustys Offroad: Super 44 Kit


Then gears would should be 4.x?
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Old 12-07-2011, 06:39 AM   #18
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RESEARCH. The answers aren't going to get spoon-fed to you. Read build threads and use the search on this and other forums.

FYI, Rustys is a terrible company. Look elsewhere.
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Old 12-12-2011, 06:13 PM   #19
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