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Old 07-25-2013, 02:11 PM   #1
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Please assist. I am picking this up Saturday.

Hey guys, finally found what I like and what appears to be a super honest seller.

If its in the condition she says then I am really excited. So much that my wife is going with me to drive our vehicle back.

Stats:
Second owner, first owner was a lady second owner was family. Selling for bigger house??
claim no rust frame or body
claim paint at 90%
sound bar
running boards
98 jeep wrangler
5 speed 4.0
nice clean hard top and soft top
new tires less then 150 miles them
116 k original miles
4 inch lift (unsure of kind)

Was told her husband is pretty anal on it and this was what he had done to it recently:
new steering box , new two hub assembly , all new brakes , starter , new battery new steering shock , tune up , changes all running
gear fluids , brand new tires 33/12.5/15 BFgs, front end aliment.

Bottom line, I am not anywhere as a mechanic. I read over and over about gear rations for tires. Do you feel this is good jeep for a weekend toy for the family.

Paying $8200 (little more than I wanted to)


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Old 07-25-2013, 02:26 PM   #2
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What size tires does it have?
What axles?
Is it regeared?
Is there a slip yoke elim and cv shaft?
Steering upgrades?

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Old 07-25-2013, 02:29 PM   #3
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What brand lift and included components?
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Old 07-25-2013, 02:31 PM   #4
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These are all things I cannot answer. i will check with the seller and see.
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Old 07-25-2013, 02:37 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Owen_TJ View Post
What size tires does it have?
What axles?
Is it regeared?
Is there a slip yoke elim and cv shaft?
Steering upgrades?
again I am not a mechanic and they may not be either, but I asked the above to them a minute ago

33 inch tires
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Old 07-25-2013, 02:42 PM   #6
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Here are the reasons for my questions:

Tire size - this will tie into the other questions i asked

Axles: If he's running 35's on it like some people try to stuff in there with a 4" lift, then it most likely has a d30 front and d35 rear. The largest tire to put on a d35 rear would be a 33" tire. A 35" tire on a d35 is a timebomb and needs replaced with either a d44 or a ford 8.8. The front axle is "ok" but should also be upgraded to chromoly shafts if you wheel it (i run a ford 8.8 and chromoly shafts)

Regear - With larger tires, you're going to suffer a loss in acceleration as well as your ability to maintain highway speeds when going up a grade. With new gears, you'll gain back a lot of the performance you lose with larger tires. If they're 33's the best match is 4.56 and if you run 35's the best match is 4.88.

Slip yoke and CV shaft - these are needed with a suspension lift of 4" or higher. You need to maintain proper pinion angle in order to not have vibes in the drive line which will wear on seals/parts/etc. A slight cheater method to this is to use a tcase drop but with a 4" lift you'll have a large tcase drop which still gives vibes and also looks bad.

Steering - With larger tires it puts a lot more stress on the tie rods and drag links in order to turn them so after a bit they wear out...you need a heavy duty steering system to put up with the added size and weight.



These statements are in no way "set in stone" but a pretty good rule of thumb for doing something correct...

EDIT: I see you posted with 33" tires...those are ok to run on the rear axle without needing to change it out. Some people have blown their d35 up on 33's but most run them just fine.

My other statements still hold true to running the 33's
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Old 07-25-2013, 03:04 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Owen_TJ View Post
Here are the reasons for my questions:

Tire size - this will tie into the other questions i asked

Axles: If he's running 35's on it like some people try to stuff in there with a 4" lift, then it most likely has a d30 front and d35 rear. The largest tire to put on a d35 rear would be a 33" tire. A 35" tire on a d35 is a timebomb and needs replaced with either a d44 or a ford 8.8. The front axle is "ok" but should also be upgraded to chromoly shafts if you wheel it (i run a ford 8.8 and chromoly shafts)

Regear - With larger tires, you're going to suffer a loss in acceleration as well as your ability to maintain highway speeds when going up a grade. With new gears, you'll gain back a lot of the performance you lose with larger tires. If they're 33's the best match is 4.56 and if you run 35's the best match is 4.88.

Slip yoke and CV shaft - these are needed with a suspension lift of 4" or higher. You need to maintain proper pinion angle in order to not have vibes in the drive line which will wear on seals/parts/etc. A slight cheater method to this is to use a tcase drop but with a 4" lift you'll have a large tcase drop which still gives vibes and also looks bad.

Steering - With larger tires it puts a lot more stress on the tie rods and drag links in order to turn them so after a bit they wear out...you need a heavy duty steering system to put up with the added size and weight.



These statements are in no way "set in stone" but a pretty good rule of thumb for doing something correct...

EDIT: I see you posted with 33" tires...those are ok to run on the rear axle without needing to change it out. Some people have blown their d35 up on 33's but most run them just fine.

My other statements still hold true to running the 33's
Man!!!!!!!!! Great response. First this will be just a weekend joy rider. I know!!!!!!! A sin to not offroad in it. I guess my question is, since they are 33s and I doubt it has the slip yoke, cv shaft or been regeared, what kind of dollars am I look at?

I am trying to even understand necessity right now.

If I sold or traded the 33s for 31s would that help my cause? Was hoping to buy one and ot have to spend money immediately, lol

Scott
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Old 07-25-2013, 03:12 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sesimmons View Post
I am trying to even understand necessity right now.

Scott
My daughter runs a stock geared (3.73) TJ with 33's she is happy with it and does not want her gears changed. She is mostly a street queen compared to my TJ. To answer your question the gears prolly don't have to be changed but it's all about what you want.
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Old 07-25-2013, 03:24 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sesimmons View Post
Man!!!!!!!!! Great response. First this will be just a weekend joy rider. I know!!!!!!! A sin to not offroad in it. I guess my question is, since they are 33s and I doubt it has the slip yoke, cv shaft or been regeared, what kind of dollars am I look at?

I am trying to even understand necessity right now.

If I sold or traded the 33s for 31s would that help my cause? Was hoping to buy one and ot have to spend money immediately, lol

Scott
Its not the tires that cause you to need a slip yoke, its the amount of suspension lift. The normal line is drawn at 3" where you dont need a SYE (slip yoke eliminator) and cv shaft. When you hit 4" its almost a requirement to need a SYE. You can run a 4" lift without one but you'll drop your tcase skid a good amount which is ugly and you'll still most likely have vibes due to the angle.

In dollar amount...you'd be looking at like 800-1000 for a sye/shaft/install, 1200 for regear, and like 5-700 for steering and install. Lots lol.

If you're going to use it as a mall crawler (no offroading) then you'll be fine to run the 33's with that steering since it wont jar a lot and will take longer to wear but eventually you should change it out.

The gears arent really a necessity as mudmagnet said...you'll get around just fine with your stock set...just a little more sluggish than it was stock or compared to 4.56's

Then...just as an opinion...31's will look too small on a 4" lift in my opinion lol

Quote:
Originally Posted by mudmagnet63 View Post
My daughter runs a stock geared (3.73) TJ with 33's she is happy with it and does not want her gears changed. She is mostly a street queen compared to my TJ. To answer your question the gears prolly don't have to be changed but it's all about what you want.
Agreed...
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Old 07-25-2013, 03:37 PM   #10
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Price is a little high as it is basically stock with an unknown lift. Post more pics of the suspension, frame, etc.

That pic really shows why adjustable control arm are needed for 4" lifts. That rear axle looks shoved forward.
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Old 07-25-2013, 03:48 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by Dextreme View Post
Price is a little high as it is basically stock with an unknown lift. Post more pics of the suspension, frame, etc.

That pic really shows why adjustable control arm are needed for 4" lifts. That rear axle looks shoved forward.
Didnt even notice there was a picture lol...i'm at work and its blocked

I agree adjustable arms are needed

To answer your next question for price on control arms...would be around 250-500 bucks
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Old 07-26-2013, 07:52 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dextreme View Post

That pic really shows why adjustable control arm are needed for 4" lifts. That rear axle looks shoved forward.
How does a rear axle get shoved forward? Again, rookie here. If in fact it is shoved forward, what kind of lift would you suspect that is.

I have not been to see jeep yet, am Saturday. I am going to ask her husband about the lift type, etc.
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Old 07-26-2013, 08:13 AM   #13
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Don't get your hopes up too much from talking with this 'honest seller'. Thoroughly inspect the undercarriage, test the 4WD, inspect the HVAC, lights, etc... and highway drive this to evaluate for vibes/weird noises. Seems odd to have so many new front end parts replaced on a vehicle with only 116K miles and owned by 2 owners who seems to be non hardcore offroaders. Definitely know what type of lift it has like others have suggested to make sure it was done correctly.
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Old 07-26-2013, 11:11 AM   #14
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Just a thought: wouldn't it be a better idea to look for a TJ that's as close to stock as possible? It sounds like the more customized a Jeep is (without a folder filled with receipts), the higher the unknown variables are.
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Old 07-26-2013, 11:19 AM   #15
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Few other things to check.. at 116k miles look for any signs that the radiator is leaking. usually the top plastic start to pull away from the metal core at the crimps. also check for the cracked exhaust manifold crack, which just about all of the 97 to 99's get. If it has a dana 35(has round plastic fill cap on the diff cover) I would offer less for it as it a weak axle. If it has the dana 44(square metal diff plug) that is better. and of course price will vary greatly depending on your location...

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