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Old 04-28-2008, 07:19 PM   #1
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por15

Well i'm buying some por 15 for inside my frame. I've never used it but do I need the metal ready too? I want to do it right. I'm not shure?


por15
http://www.quadratec.com/products/92156_400.htm

metal ready
http://www.quadratec.com/products/92156_110.htm

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4.0/np231/ax15/d30/d35
flowmaster40,hpd30 with aussie locker,currie upper joints,4.88's, lca skids,chromo shafts,vanco brakes,d35 with super 35 and arb locker,re 4.5" springs,currie arms,re front uppers,Re shocks in back,walkerevens shocks up front, Re track bars with currie jj joints,anti rock,ss brake lines,re rear sway bar links,jks 1.25" bl and mml,bfg 35x12.5 km2's,craiger soft 8's,ome steering stabilizer,currie hd steering,rockmen front bumper,emp tank skid,lots more too.
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Old 04-28-2008, 07:45 PM   #2
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Is there rust inside the frame? Whenever I por-15d anything, I was trained to use the "acid" on anything that was rusted (after taking a wire wheel to it as best as I could) to neurtralize the rust, than marine clean on anything that had any grease or oil on it, than use the metal ready, than the po15. I never tried to do it any other way other than how por-15 instructed us to do it, and I have never had a problem with their product.

the por-15 website has lots of good info, as well as some good tips and tricks. Remember to always STIR the por-15, and never shake it, before use and anytime you get fresh por15 on your brush. Also, DO NOT GET IT ON YOUR SKIN, or clothes for that matter. It takes a LONGGGGG time to go away. I got some on my hands, went to the bathroom, than wiped the sweat off my face in the middle of trying to clean my .. area... I had por15 all over me for a long time

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Old 04-28-2008, 07:46 PM   #3
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By the way, if you find a friendly restoration shop in your area, they can probably get you a better deal on por15 supplies than quadractec, as well as help tell ya how to use it right. Good choice on product, too
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Old 04-28-2008, 07:52 PM   #4
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Well The outside off my frame is fine but the center section of the frame the lowest point had crap in at that caused some rust and some flaking nothing major. I had to make alot of little things and be clever to clean it out. It's weird the higher points around the wheel wells and ends of the frame are spotless inside. I want to stop it so 10 years later the frame doesn't start rotting out.
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4.0/np231/ax15/d30/d35
flowmaster40,hpd30 with aussie locker,currie upper joints,4.88's, lca skids,chromo shafts,vanco brakes,d35 with super 35 and arb locker,re 4.5" springs,currie arms,re front uppers,Re shocks in back,walkerevens shocks up front, Re track bars with currie jj joints,anti rock,ss brake lines,re rear sway bar links,jks 1.25" bl and mml,bfg 35x12.5 km2's,craiger soft 8's,ome steering stabilizer,currie hd steering,rockmen front bumper,emp tank skid,lots more too.
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Old 04-28-2008, 07:59 PM   #5
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AlsoI don't think I need to degrese because my frame is clean and the inside is just rusty.
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4.0/np231/ax15/d30/d35
flowmaster40,hpd30 with aussie locker,currie upper joints,4.88's, lca skids,chromo shafts,vanco brakes,d35 with super 35 and arb locker,re 4.5" springs,currie arms,re front uppers,Re shocks in back,walkerevens shocks up front, Re track bars with currie jj joints,anti rock,ss brake lines,re rear sway bar links,jks 1.25" bl and mml,bfg 35x12.5 km2's,craiger soft 8's,ome steering stabilizer,currie hd steering,rockmen front bumper,emp tank skid,lots more too.
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Old 04-28-2008, 08:30 PM   #6
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Look at rustbullet also.....
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Old 04-28-2008, 08:35 PM   #7
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i would suggest using the 3 step por-15. i used it on my cj-5 tub and frame and i think it is worth the extra time and money to use all 3.
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Old 04-28-2008, 08:43 PM   #8
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Old 04-28-2008, 08:51 PM   #9
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4.0/np231/ax15/d30/d35
flowmaster40,hpd30 with aussie locker,currie upper joints,4.88's, lca skids,chromo shafts,vanco brakes,d35 with super 35 and arb locker,re 4.5" springs,currie arms,re front uppers,Re shocks in back,walkerevens shocks up front, Re track bars with currie jj joints,anti rock,ss brake lines,re rear sway bar links,jks 1.25" bl and mml,bfg 35x12.5 km2's,craiger soft 8's,ome steering stabilizer,currie hd steering,rockmen front bumper,emp tank skid,lots more too.
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Old 04-28-2008, 08:55 PM   #10
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no
x2
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Old 04-28-2008, 08:58 PM   #11
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On the web site it says you can put another coat of any paint ontop of the por15 for more protechtion. Should I do that?
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4.0/np231/ax15/d30/d35
flowmaster40,hpd30 with aussie locker,currie upper joints,4.88's, lca skids,chromo shafts,vanco brakes,d35 with super 35 and arb locker,re 4.5" springs,currie arms,re front uppers,Re shocks in back,walkerevens shocks up front, Re track bars with currie jj joints,anti rock,ss brake lines,re rear sway bar links,jks 1.25" bl and mml,bfg 35x12.5 km2's,craiger soft 8's,ome steering stabilizer,currie hd steering,rockmen front bumper,emp tank skid,lots more too.
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Old 04-28-2008, 10:47 PM   #12
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Only time we ever primed and painted over POR-15, was when a customer didn't want to (or ran out of money) replace a panel that technically could be salvaged. We only did it a few times, but with the right amount of prep work and a good paint/body guy it came out good. I don't know that I would call the paint extra protection though. POR15 is some really nice stuff, you will be pleasantly surprised when it dries and you can get a good look at it. Might want to just do a little piece of metal you have laying around first, see if you want to spend the money on your whole frame. Just be prepared to order enough for your frame after the test
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Old 04-29-2008, 12:23 AM   #13
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use the degreaser, acid, and por15. people who don't are the ones that complain it that it flakes. spend the money and do it right. the por15 is light sensitive and will fade especially if direct sunlight hits it, thats why your suppose to paint over it. i used just plain ol' rustoleum black for the top coat on my '65 frame. turned out great with no complaints. and it does not come of skin, not even with gas and a brillo pad. ask me how i know. good luck!
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Old 04-29-2008, 01:03 AM   #14
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than wiped the sweat off my face in the middle of trying to clean my .. area...
oh man!!
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Old 04-29-2008, 11:23 AM   #15
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Ya got to love living on the east coast right?
Luckily, even with 100,000 miles, my TJ's frame is in pretty decent shape which is why I bought it. Others I checked out looked as if they'd been driven through the ocean. I'm also planning on the Por-15 route and was looking at rust bullet.

On a scale from 1 - 10. Just how hard is it to take the body of a TJ off the frame with a few friends and a garage full of good quality standard and air tools?

I'm assuming it would entail: Body mounts, Transfer Case Linkage, Tranny Linkage, Steering linkage....anything else. Sorry, previous owner of a 2wd pickup truck.

Anyone have issues with body mount bolts breaking?

Sorry to highjack.
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Old 04-29-2008, 08:18 PM   #16
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Ordered some por15 and metal ready. Didn't buy and degreaser sine the inside of my frame has no oil or grease.
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4.0/np231/ax15/d30/d35
flowmaster40,hpd30 with aussie locker,currie upper joints,4.88's, lca skids,chromo shafts,vanco brakes,d35 with super 35 and arb locker,re 4.5" springs,currie arms,re front uppers,Re shocks in back,walkerevens shocks up front, Re track bars with currie jj joints,anti rock,ss brake lines,re rear sway bar links,jks 1.25" bl and mml,bfg 35x12.5 km2's,craiger soft 8's,ome steering stabilizer,currie hd steering,rockmen front bumper,emp tank skid,lots more too.
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Old 04-30-2008, 12:18 AM   #17
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I just used POR 15 on a boat trailer that was heavily rusted. I grinded it flat and just coated the por 15 over it. 1 year later it lstill looks like new. the only thing is that the paint oxydized really bad really fast but they state the POR 15 needs a top coat or UV additive. Im just gonna rattle can some semi gloss over it. but the stuf goes a LONG way, I bought a quart i think of it and easily double coated a 19 foot boat trailer.
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Old 04-30-2008, 05:36 AM   #18
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4.0L, sorry bud I was getting a littel confused. I usually check WF at 6:30 right when I get up, before I go to work, and I am never awake. Anyway, the "degreaser" or "marine clean" is also what we used to call the acid. Thats the stuff that deep cleans and neutralizes the acid. Than the metal ready preps the surface, and the por 15 seals it. I appologize for my confusion before

With that said, if the frame isnt rusty, obviously there is no need for the marine clean
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Old 04-30-2008, 05:09 PM   #19
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How much of each would you guys recommend to get for the entire frame and maybe the tcase skid?
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Old 04-30-2008, 06:01 PM   #20
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As stated, the po15 itself goes a pretty long way. Wire wheel the whole frame and t case skid. If you have rust that needs to be treated, you need to keep the metal WET with the marine clean for atleast 40 minutes. That obviously means you need to keep continually spraying your frame and t case skid every 10 minutes or so, to keep it wet. Once thats done, just spray everything down real good with the metal ready (wipe off the marine clean and let it dry). I would do the metal ready twice. Than your just painting the por15. You litterally brush it on with a foam brush or a painters brush. We always used the foam, unless we had intricate knooks and crannies, like the engine parts on the Datsun we restored. Obviously, the better you are with a paint brush, the better it turns out. With that said, I am not an artist, and I did very well my first try. If you rush it, youll see stroke marks. If you take your time, it will come up professional looking

As for how much, I would go on the por15 website, and get their phone number. Give them a call, they are good people and will be glade to help you out. They do this for a living, they will more than likely know
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Old 04-30-2008, 06:06 PM   #21
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I was reading and it made it sound like the metal ready is really what preps the frame for the por15

Also tripp you wanted pics i'll get them for you. I'll go take some pics of the tools I used to far to clean out inside the frame.
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4.0/np231/ax15/d30/d35
flowmaster40,hpd30 with aussie locker,currie upper joints,4.88's, lca skids,chromo shafts,vanco brakes,d35 with super 35 and arb locker,re 4.5" springs,currie arms,re front uppers,Re shocks in back,walkerevens shocks up front, Re track bars with currie jj joints,anti rock,ss brake lines,re rear sway bar links,jks 1.25" bl and mml,bfg 35x12.5 km2's,craiger soft 8's,ome steering stabilizer,currie hd steering,rockmen front bumper,emp tank skid,lots more too.
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Old 04-30-2008, 06:10 PM   #22
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Thanks Rubi

So no need to paint the inside of the frame then eh?

It would be so nice if one could take everything off the frame and dip it in water with electricity through it for couple of days and then dip it that stuff All rust off and Por on pure metal, inside and out.
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Old 04-30-2008, 06:20 PM   #23
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Lets say this is my frame the spots that are red are the spots that have rust inside. The rest of the spots that stay dry are spotless. The spots that rusted have alot of crap built up in there. Tripp you should do this to because they use all tha crap on the roads where you live to.



Tools used and some other made up things are magnets vacume compressor and air gun. These all worked good to get junk out.




This is the shit that was in the back of the frame toward the rear wheel by the curv in the frame.
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4.0/np231/ax15/d30/d35
flowmaster40,hpd30 with aussie locker,currie upper joints,4.88's, lca skids,chromo shafts,vanco brakes,d35 with super 35 and arb locker,re 4.5" springs,currie arms,re front uppers,Re shocks in back,walkerevens shocks up front, Re track bars with currie jj joints,anti rock,ss brake lines,re rear sway bar links,jks 1.25" bl and mml,bfg 35x12.5 km2's,craiger soft 8's,ome steering stabilizer,currie hd steering,rockmen front bumper,emp tank skid,lots more too.
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Old 04-30-2008, 06:23 PM   #24
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tripp go stick your finger in the holes on the frame and see what you find that will tell you if you if it needs attention.
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4.0/np231/ax15/d30/d35
flowmaster40,hpd30 with aussie locker,currie upper joints,4.88's, lca skids,chromo shafts,vanco brakes,d35 with super 35 and arb locker,re 4.5" springs,currie arms,re front uppers,Re shocks in back,walkerevens shocks up front, Re track bars with currie jj joints,anti rock,ss brake lines,re rear sway bar links,jks 1.25" bl and mml,bfg 35x12.5 km2's,craiger soft 8's,ome steering stabilizer,currie hd steering,rockmen front bumper,emp tank skid,lots more too.
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Old 04-30-2008, 06:24 PM   #25
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I just dont know how to get inside the frame. I havent spend much time looking for holes but from the mods i've done on my rig, i havent noticed any bigger holes than the small ~1/2" ones
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Old 04-30-2008, 06:28 PM   #26
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You need to improvise I did alot of reading about painting the inside of jeep frames and there were things like spong on the end of a flex pole works or one guy ran a rope out both ends of the frame hooked a rag to the rope, The rag was coated with por 15 and he ran it up and down inside the frame. It may be a pain but I think it's worth it.
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4.0/np231/ax15/d30/d35
flowmaster40,hpd30 with aussie locker,currie upper joints,4.88's, lca skids,chromo shafts,vanco brakes,d35 with super 35 and arb locker,re 4.5" springs,currie arms,re front uppers,Re shocks in back,walkerevens shocks up front, Re track bars with currie jj joints,anti rock,ss brake lines,re rear sway bar links,jks 1.25" bl and mml,bfg 35x12.5 km2's,craiger soft 8's,ome steering stabilizer,currie hd steering,rockmen front bumper,emp tank skid,lots more too.
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Old 06-01-2014, 07:49 AM   #27
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I'm sorry but I don't see your pics only one of them but I would love to see them as I'm trying to figure out how to clean the inside of mine out before I use the inside frame spray from Eastwood
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Old 06-01-2014, 08:54 AM   #28
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I'm sorry but I don't see your pics only one of them but I would love to see them as I'm trying to figure out how to clean the inside of mine out before I use the inside frame spray from Eastwood

You brought back a 6 year old thread!

I used magnet on on a flexible rod I purchased from amazon. To pull out the scaling.

TEKTON 7611 24-Inch Flexible Magnetic Pick-Up Tool - Hand Tool Sets - Amazon.com

Then i hooked a tube to my shot vac to get out as much crud as possible

You should drill holes in the lowest party of the frame front and rear near the lower control arms. One hole by each.

I then parked on an incline and ran water through the frame. 10 min with the nose down and ten minutes with the nose up.


After all this my frame was pretty much free of scale. I let her dry out and coated the inside with eastwood internal Frame coating.
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Old 06-01-2014, 06:54 PM   #29
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I just did my frame with Pr15 as well and also used the Eastwood internal frame coating for the inside. Just a tip about getting the Por15 on your skin. I was wearing black latex gloves when applying it and didn't realized until the end that one of my gloves ripped. I had the stuff all over my hand. DO NOT use water to try and wash it off as water just sets it in faster. I don't know how long it was on my skin for, but I went right for rubbing alcohol and it took it all off (it did take some rigourous scrubbing too) but it came off.

Even the next day when I found some more spots on the back of my arm that I missed, it came off with rubbing alcohol even after 24 hours.
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Old 06-09-2014, 08:11 PM   #30
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How many cans of the Eastwood did you use? I'm reading anywhere between 2-4

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