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Old 05-22-2011, 09:10 PM   #1
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procomp long arm kit with fox shocks..


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Old 05-22-2011, 09:38 PM   #2
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IMO, but take it if you want I would stick with a short arm kit. Since you are wanting 35's (hope you have D44 rear end) then look at Currie's lift. It comes with all new control arms with JJ's at both ends. Long arms can hang up in the rocks.

If you want more flex just flat fender the front, cut some rear sheetmetal and put the fender back, outboard the rear shock, appropriate bump stops, nwe front and rear JJ's control arms, tummy tuck (which would need a body lift and might as well do a motor mount lift.

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Old 05-22-2011, 09:41 PM   #3
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I try to avoid anything made by procomp. It's generally low quality junk, and is actually made by 4WD.com.
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Old 05-22-2011, 09:43 PM   #4
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Crappy lift with really good shocks...I would pass and put that 3k towards something ALOT better and maybe even cheaper too. Check these out.

Currie
Rokmen
RockKrawler
Clayton
Teraflex


Its like putting pep boys special tires(lift) on $1000+ rims(shocks).....get it?
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Old 05-22-2011, 10:07 PM   #5
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alrighty, thanks everybody, on my too do list is rear end, then lift, i want a long arm lift kit 4"+
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Old 05-22-2011, 10:51 PM   #6
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Just cause I was bored I checked into this for you...dont mind the 3.5 you'll actually net about 4" maybe even more.
$2500

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Rock Krawler is proud to bring you the TJ 3.5 X Factor Plus Suspension System. The X Factor Plus Systems are the best performing trail systems ever made for Wrangler TJ’s! These systems feature our revolutionary independent 3 link front end with track bar. This design dominates the professional world of rock crawling while also maintaining perfect streetabiliy and precise handling. The upper control arm is full length so caster change is kept to a minimum. The front upper bushing in the differential is replaced with a build a ball joint for maximum articulation. Even the tinniest of details has been addressed with the X Factor Plus systems. The rear end features a triangulated 4 link assembly that allows removal of the rear track bar for awesome articulation. The lower control arms feature a high clearance design to maximize ground clearance and cross over angles. The lower control arms are made of 2” solid alloy steel and use a Monster Bushing at the frame connection and Monster Krawler Joint at the axle connection to provide the ultimate in twist! Our modular skid plate design actually clam shells the frame top and bottom with no side drilling required. This adds structure to that frame! With the 3 piece construction; servicing of the driveline is a snap and does not involve any suspension modifications. The frame rail members can be bolted in or welded on. For added rear axle structure a weld in cradle and tie in plate made from ¼” thick laser cut steel is used! Simply put, we feel this is the strongest, best articulating, 3.5 inch long arm system ever made and we back that up with our Abuse Proof Lifetime Guarantee on all hard parts!
System Benefits:
-Excellent highway ride and handling
-High clearance lower control arms made from massive 2” solid alloy steel!
-Revolutionary independent three link front end for awesome flex and control!
-Rear triangulated 4 Link that allows for removal of the rear track bar and provides anti-squat for unparalleled climbing ability! Triangulated 4 links are more robust than tri link designs!
-Skid plate mounting design that adds structure to the frame, provides a 1" gain in ground clearance, has a smooth bottom and is made from 1/4" thick steel!
-Weld on rear cradle for greater rear axle strength!
-RTI 1400+ on a 20 degree ramp!
-Allows for 33" tires!
-Limited Lifetime Warranty!
-Upgradeable to any of our higher lift long arm systems or coil over products!

System Includes:
4 long travel linear coil springs, 4 high misalignment/double-adjustable lower long arms made from 2.00" solid alloy steel, skid plate and skid plate mounting brackets made from 1/4 thick laser cut steel, 1 adjustable front upper torque arm made from solid alloy steel, high misalignment/adjustable front track bar made from solid alloy steel, front track bar relocation bracket made from 1/4" thick/laser cut steel, rear upper triangulated 4 link arms made from solid alloy steel, rear triangulated 4 link mounting cradle/axle truss made from 1/4" thick laser cut steel, extended stainless steel brake lines, front adjustable sway bar disconnects, extended rear sway bar links, hardware and detailed instructions.
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Old 05-22-2011, 11:20 PM   #7
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dude thanks!!
thats awesome ))
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Old 05-22-2011, 11:23 PM   #8
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but not sure where you see the prices at..
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Old 05-22-2011, 11:29 PM   #9
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X2 on Rock Krawler stuff... actually going to be ditching my Rubicon Express arms for RK short arms (Keeping 3.5" RE springs).

For 4" a long arm just isn't required IMO... you just need adjustable control arms and good shocks. I plan on running some FOX shocks when I end up swapping everything out... RK Arms & Fox shocks = ~$1300
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Old 05-22-2011, 11:30 PM   #10
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Heres the link to the page...look under the pic

Rock Krawler Catalog
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Old 05-22-2011, 11:31 PM   #11
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thank yo u i see it now..
i think it be worth 1500 extra bucks for a coil over kit..don't you think?
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Old 05-22-2011, 11:33 PM   #12
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I have Currie control arms in the mail.

Go with either the D44 or Ford 8.8 in the rear. The 8.8 is a little stronger but it also hangs down a little bit more than the D44. Then again you can always upgrade to cromo if you get a good deal on a D44. Stock D44 can handle 35's if you run short on pocket change.
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IF YOU CAN'T FIX IT WITH A HAMMER, YOU'VE GOT AN ELECTRICAL PROBLEM.
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Old 05-22-2011, 11:34 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AzTJ View Post
X2 on Rock Krawler stuff... actually going to be ditching my Rubicon Express arms for RK short arms (Keeping 3.5" RE springs).
I'm doing the same thing with Currie arms...keeping the RE springs...I've only replaced 2 so far, lol.


Quote:
Originally Posted by furlong24 View Post
thank yo u i see it now..
i think it be worth 1500 extra bucks for a coil over kit..don't you think?
I could be worth it...but from what I've seen coil overs can be very hard to dial in perfectly. They require extremely precise settings for all different applications and terrain types. You will be constantly changing spring rates.
One word comes to mind...overkill.
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Old 05-22-2011, 11:35 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by furlong24 View Post
thank yo u i see it now..
i think it be worth 1500 extra bucks for a coil over kit..don't you think?
If you want coil over then look it at genright. They have everything you need in a kit. Gotta drop some serious coin but you will have some nice flex.

Suspension and Steering
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YOU ONLY NEED TWO TOOLS IN LIFE - WD-40 AND DUCT TAPE. IF IT DOESN'T MOVE AND SHOULD, USE THE WD-40. IF IT SHOULDN'T MOVE AND DOES, USE THE DUCT TAPE.

IF YOU CAN'T FIX IT WITH A HAMMER, YOU'VE GOT AN ELECTRICAL PROBLEM.
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Old 05-22-2011, 11:35 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KBR97 View Post
I'm doing the same thing with Currie arms...keeping the RE springs...I've only replaced 2 so far, lol.




I could be worth it...but from what I've seen coil overs can be very hard to dial in perfectly. They require extremely precise settings for all different applications and terrain types.
One word comes to mind...overkill.

yeah but the ride/travel would be alot better..
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Old 05-22-2011, 11:38 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by furlong24 View Post
thank yo u i see it now..
i think it be worth 1500 extra bucks for a coil over kit..don't you think?
Not worth it. Just get some good emulsion shocks, Fox or King.

Quote:
Originally Posted by KBR97 View Post
I'm doing the same thing with Currie arms...keeping the RE springs...I've only replaced 2 so far, lol.
I haven't had issues with mine, just that they are wearing out. I wheel with guys that have RK stuff and never lets them down. Should have just went with RK when I got my lift, but I couldn't pass the deal on the included SYE & shaft.
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Old 05-22-2011, 11:39 PM   #17
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Put it like this: If you are new to wheeling go exploring a lot and see what direction you want to go in before you invest in a lot of parts. With coilsovers they outboard the shocks like I mention in the previous post. It's about up travel but more importanly down travel while keeping the center of gravity down. That's achieved by cutting metal instead of putting it higher in the air.
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IF YOU CAN'T FIX IT WITH A HAMMER, YOU'VE GOT AN ELECTRICAL PROBLEM.
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Old 05-22-2011, 11:40 PM   #18
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My front RE arm bushings wore out (into pieces) within 3 months and 2-3 wheeling trips. The rears aren't looking so good either.
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Old 05-22-2011, 11:44 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KBR97 View Post
My front RE arm bushings wore out (into pieces) within 3 months and 2-3 wheeling trips. The rears aren't looking so good either.
Daystar makes Poly replacements for RE arms now, FYI.
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Old 05-22-2011, 11:45 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KBR97 View Post
My front RE arm bushings wore out (into pieces) within 3 months and 2-3 wheeling trips. The rears aren't looking so good either.
Going to change up and go with JJ's? At both ends they will allow more flex and won't bind up like rubber would.
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YOU ONLY NEED TWO TOOLS IN LIFE - WD-40 AND DUCT TAPE. IF IT DOESN'T MOVE AND SHOULD, USE THE WD-40. IF IT SHOULDN'T MOVE AND DOES, USE THE DUCT TAPE.

IF YOU CAN'T FIX IT WITH A HAMMER, YOU'VE GOT AN ELECTRICAL PROBLEM.
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Old 05-22-2011, 11:48 PM   #21
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Yes...I already have two lowers in there...working on getting the other 6.
I'm gonna have to get some of those replacement poly's for the RE arms so I can dump them on Ebay with some fresh bushings.

How much you think I can get for 4 RE lowers with good bushings?...200?...more?
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Old 05-22-2011, 11:52 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KBR97 View Post
Yes...I already have two lowers in there...working on getting the other 6.
I'm gonna have to get some of those replacements rubbers for the RE arms so I can dump them on Ebay with some fresh bushings.
I went on a spending spree here lately with my Jeep, Just got a new job and they gave me a moving allowance along with moving my stuff. I oredered a lot of new stuff for mine. Made the regear possible. Dang skittles (04 Rubie) loves gas.

I will go all front JJ's at some point. Now it's time to save up for an engagement that's going to be around thanksgiving.
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YOU ONLY NEED TWO TOOLS IN LIFE - WD-40 AND DUCT TAPE. IF IT DOESN'T MOVE AND SHOULD, USE THE WD-40. IF IT SHOULDN'T MOVE AND DOES, USE THE DUCT TAPE.

IF YOU CAN'T FIX IT WITH A HAMMER, YOU'VE GOT AN ELECTRICAL PROBLEM.
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Old 05-22-2011, 11:55 PM   #23
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I hear ya...I have my wedding coming up in 2 months!! Trying to pay for that and secretly buy stuff for the Jeep, lol.



Oh btw...
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Old 05-23-2011, 01:44 AM   #24
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I hear ya...I have my wedding coming up in 2 months!! Trying to pay for that and secretly buy stuff for the Jeep, lol.



Oh btw...
haha its cool its high jacked
just more info for me!
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Old 05-23-2011, 06:55 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by KBR97
Heres the link to the page...look under the pic

Rock Krawler Catalog
X2 if your lookin for the best quality stuff you should really look into rock krawler especially if your willing to spend 3k on a lift kit.

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