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Old 08-06-2012, 05:58 PM   #1
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Quadratec factory re-placement sub

Hello all,

Upon installing an aftermarket head unit I noticed the facotry subwoofer is not working. I have not looked further into the problem, but it seems as if the sub is not getting power, or has been un-plugged.

After reading many people replace the factory sub with an aftermarket matched with an amplifer. my question is?

* If you replace the sub with an aftermarket. Do you have to run a power wire through the firewall, or can you tap into the power already running to the stock amp.

recently while browsing Quadratec I came across what is called as a plug and play, aftermarket, sub. (see this)Quadratec Exclusive TJ REPSUB - Replacement Center Console Subwoofer for 01-06 Jeep® Wrangler TJ & Unlimited - Quadratec

Has anyone tried this out? is it worth the $90.00 or is it better if you want a sub, to just go aftermarket. I do not want alot of bass, but we all know music sounds better with a little lower tone in place.

any comments on the Quadratec sub would be appreciated. Also if any suggestions of why the factory sub is not working would be great so I can keep them in mind.

Thank you

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Old 08-06-2012, 08:12 PM   #2
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I just installed a kicker 6.5" CVT yesterday and just connected it brown positive and grey negative then taped off the black and red wires and it kicks pretty good. It's not overpowering, but you know it's there. It was $70 on sonicelectronix with free shipping, but others have gotten them for $55 off of amazon.

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Old 08-06-2012, 08:20 PM   #3
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Yes. Don't get that replacement sub. Still low quality and not worth the Money at all. Get the kicker 6.5". I had the pyramid 6.5" before and blew it in a few months. Got the kicker 6.5" and its a world of difference. Totally worth the money and just requires a little snipping of plastic for it to fit. 5 min job. As far as the amp, you will need to run a hot wire directly from the battery to the amp. My amp is in the insta trunk so its safe from weather and theft. I ran the wires under my carpet.
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Old 08-07-2012, 12:43 AM   #4
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May want to check the fuse for the existing factory sub.

As for replacements, should we use SVC or DVC? I was looking at aftermarket subs and it seems like there are a couple different ones that could potentially fit. I'm not a huge fan of Kicker; used Elemental Designs in all my previous vehicles.
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Old 08-07-2012, 01:32 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by loft View Post
May want to check the fuse for the existing factory sub.

As for replacements, should we use SVC or DVC? I was looking at aftermarket subs and it seems like there are a couple different ones that could potentially fit. I'm not a huge fan of Kicker; used Elemental Designs in all my previous vehicles.
Its really just about the mounting depth. The mounting depth of the kicker is pretty much the max of the stock enclosure. I had to trim almost all of the little support tabs inside the stock enclosure to get the kicker to fit. As long as it is a 6.5" sub and has an equal or shallower mounting depth than the kicker, you should be fine
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Old 08-07-2012, 01:46 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepwayoflife View Post
Its really just about the mounting depth. The mounting depth of the kicker is pretty much the max of the stock enclosure. I had to trim almost all of the little support tabs inside the stock enclosure to get the kicker to fit. As long as it is a 6.5" sub and has an equal or shallower mounting depth than the kicker, you should be fine
Thats alright... the eD sub I was looking at is actually discontinued and no luck on eBay for it. Looks like the options are limited to Kicker, JL Audio, Bazooka, CDT, and some real cheapo's lol...
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Old 08-07-2012, 02:17 AM   #7
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Ok so the general concensus is that the kicker sub is the way to go? and It has to be a 6.5? With the mounting tabs trimmed is there any stability issues while bouncing around on the trail?
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Old 08-07-2012, 02:33 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rubiconvict05 View Post
Ok so the general concensus is that the kicker sub is the way to go? and It has to be a 6.5? With the mounting tabs trimmed is there any stability issues while bouncing around on the trail?
I would just get the kicker. Proven to fit and very well made. I have cranked it pretty darn loud without maxing it out and it still sounded good. It will never give you hard hitting bass, but its 10x better than stock and for people like me that never had a subwoofer, its a HUGE improvement. I used the 8 possible screw holes in the subwoofer to very securely attach it. Also filled it with polyfill. No problems at all on the trail. I am more worries about my amp than I am my subwoofer, because I know the sub was made well and is attached well

2OHM: Amazon.com: Kicker 6.5" CompVT Car Subwoofer 2 OHM 10CVT652: Electronics

4OHM: Amazon.com: Kicker 6.5Inch Shallow Mount Subwoofer 4 Ohm: Car Electronics
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Old 08-07-2012, 03:01 AM   #9
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Ok thanks So I now have one component on the list, and where to get it. I really appreciate it. I have a factory sub and not looking for a pounding bass monster but something I can get loud and clear. Basically anything over the factory paper is better. I figure new head unit, new speakers in the front and sound bar, and a new sub with an amp. Hell if I can find a decent secondary amp Ill power everything.
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Old 08-07-2012, 05:49 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepwayoflife

I would just get the kicker. Proven to fit and very well made. I have cranked it pretty darn loud without maxing it out and it still sounded good. It will never give you hard hitting bass, but its 10x better than stock and for people like me that never had a subwoofer, its a HUGE improvement. I used the 8 possible screw holes in the subwoofer to very securely attach it. Also filled it with polyfill. No problems at all on the trail. I am more worries about my amp than I am my subwoofer, because I know the sub was made well and is attached well

2OHM: Amazon.com: Kicker 6.5" CompVT Car Subwoofer 2 OHM 10CVT652: Electronics

4OHM: Amazon.com: Kicker 6.5Inch Shallow Mount Subwoofer 4 Ohm: Car Electronics
Forgive me for ignorance, but I am a total electronics noob. What is the difference between the 2 Ohm and 4 Ohm? Which is preferred for an 02 TJ? Mine has been blown for a while now.
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Old 08-07-2012, 07:30 AM   #11
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I did the 2ohm 6.5 CVT in the stock box with a DX500.1 monoblock. It's too much amp for the sub but it was a great deal. I just turn the gain way down (which I would think keeps it cooler).
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Old 08-07-2012, 07:41 AM   #12
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So the amp is under the steering colum? THis is the first time I have seen this area.
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Old 08-07-2012, 08:18 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rubiconvict05 View Post
So the amp is under the steering colum? THis is the first time I have seen this area.

Skinny Pedal makes a mount that goes there but I couldn't bring myself to spend $50 on it so I made my own. Mine is not as good but it was free and got the job done. I saw a post where someone made one out of wood. I used his idea for mounting but used an old metal parts bin shelf.
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Old 08-07-2012, 01:41 PM   #14
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I have the CVT652 and it sounds great. Not as good as going with sub behind the back seat but i need the room behind the seat.
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Old 08-10-2012, 10:08 AM   #15
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My Sub

Well, no wonder the sub was making noise. Too funny! New Quadratech Sub with polyfill stuffed in the box sounds just fine. NO mods, 45 min start to finish. (see attached)
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Old 08-10-2012, 04:21 PM   #16
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Oh man... lol. I'm still running the factory sub but will be replacing it once I get wheels/tires/fenders. Luckily mine works and doesn't distort for now, but I did put new speakers in the front and sound bar which dig about as deep as the sub. *shrug*
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Old 08-11-2012, 12:23 PM   #17
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Looks like the mice got it.
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Old 08-11-2012, 01:53 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by A_Jeeper View Post
I did the 2ohm 6.5 CVT in the stock box with a DX500.1 monoblock. It's too much amp for the sub but it was a great deal. I just turn the gain way down (which I would think keeps it cooler).
Do you have a drawing or diagram on the amp mount? I found a DX250.1 that I want to put there and run the sub out from the Alpine to my 652.
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Old 08-18-2012, 10:16 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by terpsmandan View Post
Do you have a drawing or diagram on the amp mount? I found a DX250.1 that I want to put there and run the sub out from the Alpine to my 652.

I cut a piece of metal in the shape of the amp (traced it). I had to trim some of the plastic on the amp and trim some more off the plate.

Drilled .5" slot 2.25" from the end and centered for the mounting bolt.

Put a bolt thru the slot and finger tighten a nut.

Mount amp to plate and slide in to place.

The mounting bolt will go thru a hole in the steering column mounting bracket. Put on a nut and you're done. Finger tight is all I did. It's a tight fit so the amp won't be going anywhere

Once you cut the plate out, put in place and my horrible instructions will make more sense. Here a few more pics that may help you. The 250 appears to be the same size as the 500 so you shouldn't have any problem with space. It's nothing great but it cost me $0 and I lke free stuff.
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Old 08-21-2012, 05:39 PM   #20
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Thanks for the pix.
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Old 08-29-2012, 05:02 PM   #21
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Grabbing a DX250.1 on Friday.
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Old 09-06-2012, 06:44 PM   #22
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All hooked up and I have it under the back seat for now. Still trying to figure out how to set it up for the best sound.
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Old 09-11-2012, 03:58 PM   #23
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Seems that it needed to be filled with polyfil. Sounds really good now.
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Old 09-13-2012, 12:01 AM   #24
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Yes polyfill is a must! Use it in your sound bar as well if you replace those speakers and it will make a difference
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Old 09-13-2012, 12:19 AM   #25
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And for the record, I have a Bazooka 6.5" DVC sub on the way. Going to see if I can make it fit in the center console, it is a bit deeper than the Kicker CVT sub.
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Old 09-13-2012, 07:36 AM   #26
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Pyle PLPW6D 6.5" 600 Watt Dual Voice Coil 4 Ohm Subwoofer
I got this from amazon, I think around $30.00. Sounds pretty good. I had to trim bottom ribs of box a bit to get it to fit. I think I should try the polyfil, does it make a big difference?
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Old 09-15-2012, 11:39 AM   #27
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I bought the Kicker sub already installed in a factory enclosure ready for plug in. It sounded better than the Goldwood that I used to replace the OEM sub. After hooking the amp to it and adjusting the settings on the amp and the HU, I decided to hook the sub back up to the OEM amp, luckily I forgot that I clipped the remote line off of the harness to turn the amp on. With the OEM amp not working, I reconnected the new amp to the speaker and finished filling up the enclosure with polyfil and that made a huge difference in the sound quality. I already had filled the overhead pods so I had some extra.
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Old 09-15-2012, 11:29 PM   #28
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Bump

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