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Old 10-15-2011, 01:34 PM   #1
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Questions about a Tummy Tucker

Ok so I'm curious about the tummy tuck skid, I have a 4" SL and a 2" BL when I do this upgrade what can I expect to change?(besides clearance) I already have the sye and shaft, but I'm wondering if I'm going to get vibes after install. And will this bring the gap of my shifter back to normal or almost normal location?

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Old 10-15-2011, 09:12 PM   #2
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Old 10-16-2011, 12:58 AM   #3
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Old 10-16-2011, 11:55 AM   #4
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Has savvy put out their skid yet? Cuz in my mind UCF has no competition. But if savvy want to put out a flat skid...that's pretty impressive.
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Old 10-16-2011, 12:01 PM   #5
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Has savvy put out their skid yet? Cuz in my mind UCF has no competition. But if savvy want to put out a flat skid...that's pretty impressive.
Yeah, but it's pricey and on back order though. I'm sure it's probably worth it. That and the Savvy gas tank skid are on my short list.

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Old 10-16-2011, 08:19 PM   #6
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Parts for the UA are in and should be shipping soon:

Savvy Under Armor - Page 103 - JeepForum.com

Savvy UA is an amazing piece of engineering. The cross-member that holds up your transmission/t-case alone is a great piece of work. The UA will (hopefully) be on my rig in short order.
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Old 10-16-2011, 08:55 PM   #7
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I personally am going after the UCF it gives the most clearance/best protection for the price
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Old 10-16-2011, 09:39 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by KidRock171
I personally am going after the UCF it gives the most clearance/best protection for the price
That looks awesome the savvy is 1100$ this one is 750$ish including jks 1" motor mounts.
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Old 10-16-2011, 09:51 PM   #9
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If you have vibes you can add a 1" MML if you haven't already.
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Old 10-16-2011, 10:25 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by ipath68

That looks awesome the savvy is 1100$ this one is 750$ish including jks 1" motor mounts.
It has too many choices. Thickness. Steel. Aluminum. T case. Tcase+engine. LoPro mount. Depth. Their super skinny is virtually flat. Good enough for me
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Old 10-16-2011, 10:42 PM   #11
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I love my UCF ultra high clearance skid. If you already have a SYE and CV shaft the only other thing you may need is to have the CV shaft lengthened. and you will have to re adjust your rear pinion angle. It will take care of your shifter gap as well.
Heres mine.

Give Matt a call he will hook you up. Under Cover Fabworks, LLC - undercoverfab.com - Main Page
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Old 10-16-2011, 10:44 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KidRock171

It has too many choices. Thickness. Steel. Aluminum. T case. Tcase+engine. LoPro mount. Depth. Their super skinny is virtually flat. Good enough for me
I conquer!
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Old 10-16-2011, 10:44 PM   #13
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Here is a good side shot with it installed. Dont flame me for the lift. It doesnt look so tall now that I have 35s

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Old 10-16-2011, 10:45 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by solman
I love my UCF ultra high clearance skid. If you already have a SYE and CV shaft the only other thing you may need is to have the CV shaft lengthened. and you will have to re adjust your rear pinion angle. It will take care of your shifter gap as well.
Heres mine.

Give Matt a call he will hook you up. Under Cover Fabworks, LLC - undercoverfab.com - Main Page
How did you adjust the angle, control arms?
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Old 10-16-2011, 10:47 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by solman
Here is a good side shot with it installed. Dont flame me for the lift. It doesnt look so tall now that I have 35s
Jeep looks awesome!
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Old 10-16-2011, 10:47 PM   #16
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How did you adjust the angle, control arms?
Yup, you should already have adjustable rear uppers if you have a SYE/CV.
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Old 10-16-2011, 10:49 PM   #17
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Jeep looks awesome!
Thanks, Its a never ending work in progress
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Old 10-16-2011, 10:50 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by solman

Yup, you should already have adjustable rear uppers if you have a SYE/CV.
Jeep came with it done so I'm going to take a look tomorrow, last I checked didn't look adjustable.
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Old 10-16-2011, 10:55 PM   #19
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Take a few pics and post them for us. Take 1 from the side where the driveshaft meets the rear axle and 1 of the rear upper control arms. I'm sure we can figure out what you have/need
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Old 10-16-2011, 10:59 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by solman
Take a few pics and post them for us. Take 1 from the side where the driveshaft meets the rear axle and 1 of the rear upper control arms. I'm sure we can figure out what you have/need
I'll do that as soon as I can tomorrow, thanks for the help.
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Old 10-17-2011, 10:36 AM   #21
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Take a few pics and post them for us. Take 1 from the side where the driveshaft meets the rear axle and 1 of the rear upper control arms. I'm sure we can figure out what you have/need
here are the pics
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Old 10-17-2011, 10:40 AM   #22
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Looks like stock uppers; those lowers look aftermarket but what kind and whether or not they're adjustable or not is hard to tell because they're so dirty.

A picture of your driveshaft from the side would be nice as well so we can see your pinion angle.
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Old 10-17-2011, 11:16 AM   #23
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The tops are stock, the lowers are aftermarket but none adjustable. They also look like poly bushings(less flex). I would suggest getting adjustable uppers, as the cheapest solution, but get a good quality brand. You could get adjustable uppers and lowers. The reason I say get new uppers is that while also being able to adjust your pinion angle up for the sye you also gain/keep your wheelbase. Which would be opposite if you kept stock uppers and got adjustable lowers.

x2 get a pic of your driveshaft and pinion from the side.
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Old 10-17-2011, 11:55 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by solman View Post
Take a few pics and post them for us. Take 1 from the side where the driveshaft meets the rear axle and 1 of the rear upper control arms. I'm sure we can figure out what you have/need
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheTJRod View Post
The tops are stock, the lowers are aftermarket but none adjustable. They also look like poly bushings(less flex). I would suggest getting adjustable uppers, as the cheapest solution, but get a good quality brand. You could get adjustable uppers and lowers. The reason I say get new uppers is that while also being able to adjust your pinion angle up for the sye you also gain/keep your wheelbase. Which would be opposite if you kept stock uppers and got adjustable lowers.

x2 get a pic of your driveshaft and pinion from the side.
Pics of the drive line, the lowers are after market have no idea what brand they have a textured hammered look and are a gunmetal gray in color.
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Old 10-17-2011, 11:58 AM   #25
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Your drive-shaft angle looks good. I would get a good set of adjustable rear uppers when you get the tummy tuck skid and you should be good to go.
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Old 10-17-2011, 12:00 PM   #26
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The Pinion angle looks good, the best I can tell without using an angle finder. Looks like the lower control arms were made for the lift and SYE. It also means that they are shorter than stock taking away from your wheelbase. I would still get adjustable uppers. As when you lift the t-case up for the TT you will need to either shorten your lower control arms or lengthen your uppers to get the pinion angle higher.
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Old 10-17-2011, 12:08 PM   #27
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Thanks for the input guys really appreciate the help!
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Old 10-17-2011, 12:44 PM   #28
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Im going to end up making my own or buying from a local guy who has made his own..

It is FLAT. No hang down other than the thickness of the skid.
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Old 10-17-2011, 12:50 PM   #29
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Im going to end up making my own or buying from a local guy who has made his own..

It is FLAT. No hang down other than the thickness of the skid.
Your going to have to have a crazy high body lift(2+") or "clearance" the tub with a BFH. I have the JKS 1.25" BL and my skid is only 1" below the frame rails and I have probably less than an inch in some places between the t-case and body. I made a crossmember that is 1" thick and have a flat skid over it.
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Old 10-17-2011, 01:34 PM   #30
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Im going to end up making my own or buying from a local guy who has made his own..

It is FLAT. No hang down other than the thickness of the skid.
Good luck. Pics or it didn't happen.

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