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Old 03-08-2012, 02:01 PM   #1
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Re 7000-3 and a belly up question

Alright, finally pulled the trigger on a decent lift and it will be here shortly...woohoo!
I already have a Tera belly up skid on my 06 lj and I'm wondering what all I will need to do to make sure my drivelines are set up for success before hand.
I've already got a tw and a sye installed so that parts out of the way.

Will I need shock extenders on the rear?

I've read and found a lot about the rear ds pinion angle, but can't find much on the front angle...any suggestions here?

I'm currently running a lockrite up front so I don't want to prematurely destroy anything.

Thanks ahead for the help!

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Old 03-08-2012, 07:28 PM   #2
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C'mon, mr Blaine, mr bransford, unlimited lj04...heck I'll even take some abuse from imped on this one...as long as it gets me headed in the right direction.

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Old 03-08-2012, 07:33 PM   #3
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good luck man! i hope you find your answers.
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Old 03-08-2012, 07:52 PM   #4
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To clear the rear shocks, you can get relocators or just trim the axle pads to clear....

I can quote Mr. Bransford from a google search dug up from 2004 to answer your front axle question... and save Jerry from typing it again...:

04-08-2004, 09:27 PM #3 Jerry Bransford
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Re: TJ castor angle
Quote:
-=- originally posted by jeep99 -=-
Was wondering if anybody knows what the castor should be on a TJ with about 4" lift.

JERRY WROTE:

While 7 to 8 degrees of Caster angle is the factory recommended amount for anunlifted Jeep, and 7 degrees is considered optimal, it should be somewhere between 5.5 and 6 degrees for a TJ with a 4" lift due to potential vibration issues with the front driveshaft. The reason being that if you try to restore it back to the 7 to 8 degree angle, the front driveshaft would likely start to vibrate from the excessive angle created for the u-joint positioned between the front pinion shaft and driveshaft.

Only if the welds holding the front knuckles to the axle tubes are cut can both the pinion angle and Caster angle be individually set to their optimal angles without one interfering with the other. Luckly, 5.5 to 6 degrees of Caster angle is more than enough to keep the steering stable with good return-to-center feel for the steering wheel.
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Old 03-08-2012, 07:58 PM   #5
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Yeah, but I'll be looking at about 6" of lift on the driveline, not 4. I saw that post but I wasn't sure if mine would be a different scenario.
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Old 03-08-2012, 08:10 PM   #6
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ah... because of the belly-up.... I think the same principle would apply here... you don't want to go more than 5.5 on the caster or you will start to lose your RTC
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4" Lift, 4.56's, 33" Duratracs on M/T Classics
RR SYE, Tatton CV, MML, BL, TT, Dynomax Exhaust
Hella Lighting: Driving, Fogs and H4 E-Codes
NOPE! ... and NEVER will be...
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Old 03-08-2012, 08:18 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TnDz TJ
ah... because of the belly-up.... I think the same principle would apply here... you don't want to go more than 5.5 on the caster or you will start to lose your RTC
I need this layman's terms, I know very little about steering.
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Old 03-08-2012, 08:27 PM   #8
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Your caster is measured by the tilt of the knuckle front to back of the jeep between the upper and lower ball joints.


When you push the limits past +5.5-6 degrees (toward ZERO using the pic above) ... you start to loose the RTC ( Return To Center). You know when you go around a corner and you let go of the wheel and it straightens out? this will start to go away when you have too much caster.
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4" Lift, 4.56's, 33" Duratracs on M/T Classics
RR SYE, Tatton CV, MML, BL, TT, Dynomax Exhaust
Hella Lighting: Driving, Fogs and H4 E-Codes
NOPE! ... and NEVER will be...
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Old 03-08-2012, 08:48 PM   #9
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So how do I figure out where I'm at on caster, without an alignment machine.
Ie...if the lower arms are .25" longer, what is a reasonable guesstimate on the uppers?
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Old 03-09-2012, 05:33 AM   #10
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To get it close.... measure with an angle finder on a flat surface that is parallel with the balljoint ( even the balljoint without the zerk in it) BEFORE you do anything. This is your baseline number to shoot for.

You can reference any number of places when getting a baseline... the diff housing even... but the most accurate is to run snug-fit pipe or piece of tubing through the upper and lower balljoint sockets of the inner C on the axle housing and measure there. I know... most poeple wont do this unless they have to... but it works really good.

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4" Lift, 4.56's, 33" Duratracs on M/T Classics
RR SYE, Tatton CV, MML, BL, TT, Dynomax Exhaust
Hella Lighting: Driving, Fogs and H4 E-Codes
NOPE! ... and NEVER will be...
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