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Old 06-03-2007, 11:46 PM   #61
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Oh no, really? Damn..... I don't think it said to remove the pucks that were there. It's a JKS.

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Old 06-03-2007, 11:48 PM   #62
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Oh no, really? Damn..... I don't think it said to remove the pucks that were there. It's a JKS.
With the JKS you install the body lift puck over the stock body mount. With other body lifts you replace the entire body mount with the new body lift puck.

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Old 06-03-2007, 11:53 PM   #63
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Mr C
i've never seen a bl that replaces the stock body puck
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Old 06-03-2007, 11:57 PM   #64
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Mr C
i've never seen a bl that replaces the stock body puck
I have
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Old 06-04-2007, 12:07 AM   #65
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If I do that slip yoke rear driveshaft thing I can take the body lift and motor mount lift off though, right? So say I want to go higher on the suspension, I just take those off and fix the driveshaft, yes?
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Old 06-04-2007, 12:13 AM   #66
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Yes - but depending on the ammount of lift afterwards, you'd then need a longer driveshaft.
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Old 06-04-2007, 12:18 AM   #67
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If I do that slip yoke rear driveshaft thing I can take the body lift and motor mount lift off though, right? So say I want to go higher on the suspension, I just take those off and fix the driveshaft, yes?
I don't know why you would want to. There are many more benefits to a body lift versus that of one without.

1.) Drive line angles. If you run the equivalent lift in the suspension all your control arm angles, drive shaft angles, and steering angles are all steeper.

2.) Bumpstops. 1.25" of body lift is 1.25" less bumpstop you have to run for the same sized tire. This allows you more up travel in your shock before limitations.

3.) Belly up skids. Certain tummy tuck skids will only work with a body lift. Every inch you raise your center skid is like going up 2" in tire size.

4.) They work well in conjunction with the motor mount lift. Which in a stock wheelbase wrangler leaving the motor mount lift in will help tremendously. I believe the body lift and motor mount lift grow with your jeep and is not a product that should ever need removal.

Leaving the MML in place will decrease the angle on the already short rear drive shaft. If you get longer travel shocks this is a great benefit. If you max out the droop of your drive shaft you will bind the joint and lose it.

Just some stuff to ponder.
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Old 06-04-2007, 11:28 AM   #68
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Just did the same job on my '06. BL was a piece of cake and needed no cutting. The MML was a pain because of the AC condensor. Then trying to get a torque wrench into place was an exercise in learning contortionistic ways to drop tools on your face.
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Old 06-04-2007, 11:40 AM   #69
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I agree with Clifford leave the body lift on.Bill
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Old 06-04-2007, 12:04 PM   #70
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Nice job Tiny. You still need to get that thing muddy.

Did that fix your vibration problem?
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Old 06-04-2007, 04:11 PM   #71
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Quote:
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Then trying to get a torque wrench into place was an exercise in learning contortionistic ways to drop tools on your face.
Wait arent the MMs easier to access from the top? And speaking of dropping tools on your face i did that also when installing/tightening the radiator bottom right nut Lucky steering stabelizer shock was in the way and bounced the wrench otherwise it was gonna get me

[QUOTE=MOz;88110]Did that fix your vibration problem?/QUOTE]
yep, shes one happy camper (well sort of)
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Old 06-04-2007, 06:48 PM   #72
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Originally Posted by MR.CLIFFORD View Post

2.) Bumpstops. 1.25" of body lift is 1.25" less bumpstop you have to run for the same sized tire. This allows you more up travel in your shock before limitations.
I'm not understanding it all MRC, but if I have more travel with the body lift should I look at my brake lines again?

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Just did the same job on my '06. BL was a piece of cake and needed no cutting. The MML was a pain because of the AC condensor. Then trying to get a torque wrench into place was an exercise in learning contortionistic ways to drop tools on your face.
I undid the bracket the mount was bolted to until it was wobbly enough to get the MM bolt past it..... and I have little hands that fit just about anywhere, so that really wasn't a big deal. Having enough torque to break the bolts free was the problem.

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Nice job Tiny. You still need to get that thing muddy.

Did that fix your vibration problem?
Thanks ...... but we don't have any mud here in SoCal. If someone would be kind enough to send some rain, I would be grateful. And yup, the vibes are gone and I no longer feel like my teeth are wearing down from driving him.
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Old 06-04-2007, 07:34 PM   #73
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I'm not understanding it all MRC, but if I have more travel with the body lift should I look at my brake lines again?

If your shocks arent bottoming out and have more travel but the tires are just rubbing the fenders you have to get bigger bump stops which decreases travel.. with that BL you can lower the bump stops less so you have more travel.

If you add biger tires like let say ~33s-34s.. they will rub the fenders at full flex altough you still may have more suspension travel before you hit the bump stops. Basically BL allows you to run bigger tires. I've seen a video of a tire going into the fender and its not pretty to watch the tire bending the fender inwards (the guy was backing off trying to get out of a high rock) and ripping the tire in half in a trail.

add.. Tiny i can send you some snow next winter.. i'll give you some salt as well since we have lots of that here on the streets too.
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Old 06-04-2007, 08:57 PM   #74
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There just isn't much, that intimidates you, is there? Way to get right in there, you did a nice job.
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Old 06-04-2007, 09:04 PM   #75
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I was actually really intimidated, but I also had the parts and am very stubborn (someone close to me reminds me of that fact all the time, and then he laughs). I figure if I have the tools, the know how is here, so half the battle is won right there.

Plus, I have a great group of local guys that I know I can call on. Red even offered when I was still twirling my toe in the ground figuring I wasn't going to do it.
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Old 06-04-2007, 09:36 PM   #76
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Red even offered when I was still twirling my toe in the ground figuring I wasn't going to do it.
Always willing to lend a helping hand or a kick in the boot .

That pretty much stands for anyone from WF around SoCal needing help with an install. Just drop me a PM and if I've got time, I'm usually more than happy to help someone out if they need tools, location or just someone who may have done it before. I can prolly get emills to help as well .
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Old 06-04-2007, 09:49 PM   #77
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(and I figured I'd never hear the end of it if I showed up to a run in the near future without it done)
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Old 06-05-2007, 07:37 AM   #78
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(and I figured I'd never hear the end of it if I showed up to a run in the near future without it done)
Good call - you wouldn't have.
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Old 06-05-2007, 09:03 AM   #79
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........ and I have little hands that fit just about anywhere, so that really wasn't a big deal. ....
I have found many places my hands, arms won't go...It is making me a more patient person, though. Wish I had access to a lift.
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Old 06-05-2007, 09:26 AM   #80
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I have found many places my hands, arms won't go...It is making me a more patient person, though. Wish I had access to a lift.

It's not always a plus to be small enough to get into places though. I used to work maintenance in a fiber glass factory and they liked to stick me with cleaning the ductwork on the roof because I fit so easy. Too bad they never bothered to turn off the dang ovens.

A lift would be really nice. I need one. I wonder if I could get that past the family.....
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Old 06-05-2007, 04:15 PM   #81
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i gotta add that.. i had a steering pop issue.. it wasnt enough to hear it but you could definetly feel it in your hands. after i installed the 2" BL it seems to have gone away (at least i dont feel it anymore even if i do try to recreate the pop) I'm guessing that pop must have had something to do with the steering bracket because after the body lift i did see a big difference in the angle of the steering links.

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