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Old 03-18-2011, 05:59 PM   #1
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Rear end leak from yoke question

How bad is this to fix? Just noticed it doing a look over. Only two little drops on the concrete but its coming from the yoke.
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Old 03-18-2011, 06:26 PM   #2
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pull drive shaft off,take nut off thats in centre of yoke,slide yoke off,check yoke for grooves wore in from seal if so get a speedy sleeve, pull old seal out,do everything in reverse order. a little grease or oil on seal lip help it to slide togather.

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Old 03-18-2011, 08:15 PM   #3
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I just replaced my front one,it should have been a 1.5 hr job, but as usual the net in the center of the yoke was pratically welded on, then I had the wrong replacement seal!
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Old 03-18-2011, 08:19 PM   #4
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dont ya just love some of those counter guys!!!
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Old 03-18-2011, 08:50 PM   #5
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Thanks guys
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Old 03-18-2011, 10:58 PM   #6
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drop drive shaft use a torque wrench to see what the nut unloads at ,replace seal and load nut back to torque it unloaded at or you'll mess up the pinion and ring gear
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Old 03-18-2011, 11:09 PM   #7
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Had same problem replaced seal and gotta do axle shaft to I bent it apparently. Replacing the pinnion seal was easy it took about 45 mins
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Old 03-19-2011, 07:21 PM   #8
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How much were the parts? How long can you drive on something like this till I get the time to get it fixed?
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Old 03-19-2011, 07:33 PM   #9
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seal=5-10bucks,speedy sleeve-if needed=10-20$,oil price depends on what ya run. you can run like this if you keep an eye on the oil level,in the pic it doesnt look that bad .check the oil level twice a month. you'll be ok.
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Old 03-19-2011, 07:41 PM   #10
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Also be sure to mark the nut with a chisel before you take it off. Be sure to put it back in the same place or you will mess up the pinion bearing preload.
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Old 03-19-2011, 08:33 PM   #11
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dont ya just love some of those counter guys!!!
They are wrong often enough nowadays, but you should have tried to get the right part back in the 40's - 60's when they used a set of books sometimes 2 feet wide to look up the part. No computers. If you didn't take your old part with you it was a real crap shoot.
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Old 03-19-2011, 08:57 PM   #12
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Hang on.....All good advice on how to replace seal and to take care to return to proper torque on yoke nut, but......

There are two reasons pinoin seals fail:

A. Seal is simply old-dried out-hardened and/or cracked and has lost it's ability to flex and squeeze snug around the pinion seal sleeeve.

Before removing pinion nut, firmly attempt to wiggle yoke up n down n side to side. It it wiggles more than just a tiny bit, you got pinion bearing problems and a new seal won't last long.

If not much wiggle, remove pinion yoke an examine machined surface to see if is has a groove cut in it from the seal....Also look closely to see it it is cracked along the sealing surface.

If no cracks or deepish groove, then replace seal and remember to retorqe nut to proper bearing preload and you are done.

B. Pinion bearings worn-or pinion shaft is deeply grooved, or shaft cracked, or any combination of those. Yep, bad bearings can cause grooving, and also cracking, so look carefully for signs of bearing failure.

If bearings seem wiggle tight, and If shaft is cracked, replace yoke and seal.

If bearings are wiggle tight and shaft is deeply grooved, install speedy sleeve or new yoke and new seal.

Word of caution whenever you discover pinion or axle seal failure: If Jeep axles have been operated submerged while seal was leaking, then it is a given that axle fluid has injested water and dirt. Change fluid after fixing leak.

Edited to add: Before you even start the repair, slide under and first give the u joint a really good flex and wiggle test....A wobbly u join can fersure damage pinion yoke, pinion bearings and cause seal to leak.
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Old 03-19-2011, 08:58 PM   #13
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Thanks for the replies it must have just started cause I don't remember seeing it last month.
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Old 03-21-2011, 02:43 PM   #14
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Another quick question is this normal wear and tear or is this a serious issue when this happens.
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Old 03-21-2011, 03:08 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2002TJ View Post
Hang on.....All good advice on how to replace seal and to take care to return to proper torque on yoke nut, but......

There are two reasons pinoin seals fail:

A. Seal is simply old-dried out-hardened and/or cracked and has lost it's ability to flex and squeeze snug around the pinion seal sleeeve.

Before removing pinion nut, firmly attempt to wiggle yoke up n down n side to side. It it wiggles more than just a tiny bit, you got pinion bearing problems and a new seal won't last long.

If not much wiggle, remove pinion yoke an examine machined surface to see if is has a groove cut in it from the seal....Also look closely to see it it is cracked along the sealing surface.

If no cracks or deepish groove, then replace seal and remember to retorqe nut to proper bearing preload and you are done.

B. Pinion bearings worn-or pinion shaft is deeply grooved, or shaft cracked, or any combination of those. Yep, bad bearings can cause grooving, and also cracking, so look carefully for signs of bearing failure.

If bearings seem wiggle tight, and If shaft is cracked, replace yoke and seal.

If bearings are wiggle tight and shaft is deeply grooved, install speedy sleeve or new yoke and new seal.

Word of caution whenever you discover pinion or axle seal failure: If Jeep axles have been operated submerged while seal was leaking, then it is a given that axle fluid has injested water and dirt. Change fluid after fixing leak.

Edited to add: Before you even start the repair, slide under and first give the u joint a really good flex and wiggle test....A wobbly u join can fersure damage pinion yoke, pinion bearings and cause seal to leak.
Good information there! I was about to do this same repair too. Using Jerry's advice going with the SKF/Chicago Rawhide seal from Napa. It's 21.00 there, but heavier duty from everything I've read.

I'll be sure to check the other things 2002TJ noted. Any pics showing what the groove would look like or where it would be? Examples would really help with diagnosis.

My bearings were installed in 06 when my 4.88's were installed so I'm HOPING they're okay.

Is this a good time to swap to a yoke with u-bolts vs the straps that hold the u-joints in?
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Old 04-22-2011, 09:36 AM   #16
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Anybody know how much it would cost to have something like this for a shop to fix?

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