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Old 11-29-2011, 05:03 PM   #1
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Rear main seal replacement DIY parts list needed

So I need to replace my rear main seal. what is a list of everything I need or any special tools

so far I know i need:
rear main seal
oil pan gasket
Hi heat gasket maker
Gasket scraper.

Are the main bearing bolts re-usable or do i need new ones?
Is there a torque spec? or a stretch sequence?

I am taking it to a friend who has a shop and we are going to do it there. so i need to bring all the parts needed.

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Old 11-29-2011, 05:20 PM   #2
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rear main seal

you shouldnt need to replace the oil pan gasket (unless it needs it). I just replaced mine and all i did was pull the clutch (5speed) and took the fly wheel off. I just used a long flattip screw driver and pryed it out. Cleaned the housing and put the new seal in needed a little of force to go in but not to bad. Hope that helps

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Old 11-29-2011, 08:32 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kx125crash View Post
you shouldnt need to replace the oil pan gasket (unless it needs it). I just replaced mine and all i did was pull the clutch (5speed) and took the fly wheel off. I just used a long flattip screw driver and pryed it out. Cleaned the housing and put the new seal in needed a little of force to go in but not to bad. Hope that helps
Did you have to pull the trans?
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Old 11-29-2011, 08:57 PM   #4
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Can the transmission be pulled as a replacement procedure to dropping the oil pan? If one is to drop the oil pan, don't you also need to disconnect the exhaust manifold from the head or manifold back?
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Old 11-29-2011, 09:01 PM   #5
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You night be able to slide it back. I think the safest way if u have a friend or two is to pull the tranny. Its pretty easy (manual) dont know about autos tho. Probably be the same tho.
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Old 11-29-2011, 09:05 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by MikalCarbine
Can the transmission be pulled as a replacement procedure to dropping the oil pan? If one is to drop the oil pan, don't you also need to disconnect the exhaust manifold from the head or manifold back?
U do not need to pull tranny un less u want too. (Alot of work for nothing to me at least) U can just disconnect from manifold. Ull need new donut gasket tho
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Old 11-30-2011, 12:01 AM   #7
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tek-tonic

my plan is to do a oil pan drop to fix it.
from my research it looks like the manifold does not NEED to be removed but it can be if you want more room.

either way i don't mind, we will see what happens. has anyone actually done a rear main seal fix?
so far i just have a debate on how to do it. lol
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Old 11-30-2011, 12:24 AM   #8
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if you have the 4L you dont need to do anything more than drop the oil pan and pull the rear main bearing cap.. the seal is a 2 piece.. no need to disconnect exhaust or pull transmission..
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Old 11-30-2011, 12:27 AM   #9
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are the bearing cap bolts re-usable? many ATV engines i have built they are not....
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Old 11-30-2011, 12:30 AM   #10
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AFAIK they are, we used them again when we did my rear main.. id suggest since you're dropping the pan, i imagine you're going to be doing an oil change like i did.. put some ATF in your oil and run it up until you change the seal out.. ATF has detergents in it that will help clean your motor.. might as well
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Old 11-30-2011, 01:01 AM   #11
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i have been doing semi- short OCIs with mobil 1 Turbo diesel truck 5w-40
if its not clean in there i will be very surprised. If i find sludge ill be doing something similar afterwords.

probably Marvel mystery oil instead of ATF, but i really don't plan on finding much if any sludge. going to make sure the oil pick up screen is clean too. it will be fun to check out the condition of everything.
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Old 11-30-2011, 01:05 AM   #12
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take the oil pump off while you're down there.. make it easier to clean.. only 2 bolts holding it on.. both are 1/2" head bolts.. be careful though cuz it will spew oil lol ask me how i know :P
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Old 11-30-2011, 01:19 AM   #13
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Oh and be careful if you do.. there is a gasket on the oil pump.. if you rip it id get a new one.. cant cost too much maybe a buck or two
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Old 11-30-2011, 07:22 AM   #14
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I'll be doing this myself soon. Anything else that should be checked/done while the oil pan is off (bearings, etc)?
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Old 11-30-2011, 07:26 AM   #15
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yeah definitely take a look at bearings.. since you're down there you might as well.. look for metal shavings in the oil pan.. run a magnet through it and such.. get some break cleaner and clean your oil pan out too.. check for moisture in the pan.. etc.
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Old 11-30-2011, 07:35 AM   #16
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Easy way to pull the pan:
Loosen bolts with a rachet first..
Using a 13mm deep wall socket, loosen the 2 on the very back of the pan right by the rear main bearing, they have a connecting strap that goes under the pan. Rachet + 6 inch extension will reach, and 2 the 13mm bolts at the front... loosen them first.

Switch to 11mm deep wall socket and loosen the rest of the bolts..

Get a drill with a socket adapter and buzz all but 2 bolts all the way out (leave bolts in on opposing sides.. front and back or side to side) set aside 13mm bolts from 11mm bolts so you dont get confuzzled later..

With your friend helping, have him support the oil pan as you remove the last 2 bolts and carefully lower it.. then ta-da!!

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