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Old 11-16-2011, 10:15 PM   #1
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Rear track bar help w/ lift

I am thinking PO still has stock track bar, yet axle is pretty centered. I know the one on my jeep now is not adjustable, but does have grease fittings. Is that OEM? Eitherway I get a lot of rear end wiggles and slop. I can't seem to get any play from track bar by hand but wouldn't hurt knowing I have the correct parts on it. Do I go adjustable, or weld on a bracket - and still use adjustable or just the stock rear. I didn't remove stock yet cause its doing its job but the bushings could be clapped out.

Help please.

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Old 11-16-2011, 10:53 PM   #2
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the stock track bar does not have grease fittings on it.

do you have the stock bracket now, or a raised relocation bracket? with a lift, the relocation bracket is required - the adjustable track bar allows you to center the axle to the nearest 1/16" of an inch. If you have a SYE/CV shaft, you'll probably want to get a CV version bracket to compensate for the change in pinion angle.

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Old 11-16-2011, 11:00 PM   #3
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The OEM track-bar does not have a grease fitting so it must have an aftermarket bar which has likely got a weak spot... Have some one push the rear corner of the Jeep side to side as hard as they can and look for movement with the trac-bar... It will usually make a knocking noise if the bushing is bad. There is no way you can feel or see movement by grabbing it by hand. If you don't see any movement with it shaking side to side, check the tire pressure, one low tire can play a trick on handling. The only other thing I can think of would be a problem with the control arms, but that is unlikely, unless it's been wheeled hard.
I don't know of any mfgrs that offer a lengthened, unadjustable trac-bar with grease fittings, most lifts come with a bracket to move the bar up to keep the axle centered or you buy an adjustable... But you don't have an adjustable so... Try the "shake side to side test". Hope you find the problem...
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Old 11-16-2011, 11:05 PM   #4
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Thanks i'll do side to side test tomorrow for sure. Otherwise I think he had a older kit from Rough Country on it. Maybe that had a new bar but would, as the rest of there products, be a cheap and junk bushings even new.

So in event I find it just whats the best way to set it up. I know for sure there is no bracket but the stock mount to me seemed real high. I am trying to find a picture of what mine looks like so I know its normal. It is a dana 44 if that makes a difference or not.
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Old 11-16-2011, 11:16 PM   #5
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post a picture of the rear track bar and rear bracket.
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Old 11-16-2011, 11:21 PM   #6
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Quote:
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post a picture of the rear track bar and rear bracket.
Im already in bed... but its driving me nuts i'll run out quick and see what I can get.
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Old 11-16-2011, 11:29 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UnlimitedLJ04 View Post
post a picture of the rear track bar and rear bracket.
Im already in bed... but its driving me nuts i'll run out quick and see what I can get.
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Old 11-16-2011, 11:47 PM   #8
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Again. Dana 44 if makes a difference. But looks way bigger and beefier than other stock pics.
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Old 11-16-2011, 11:53 PM   #9
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after looking I think i just need one that has flexible joints on it cause theres no way I can get my pinion angle as I have it and its fighting that bar. I yanks and wiggled the bumper but didn't notice a clunk... i'll get a friend to help tomorrow while I look closely to it.

Any help or suggestions? Should I buy a new track bar anyway knowing it will help flexing?
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Old 11-17-2011, 12:04 AM   #10
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thats a nice beefy aftermarket bracket. looks like standard poly bushings from the pics. doesn't seem like anything is out of the ordinary as long as the bushings are in good shape.

the bigger problem I see is absolutely no bumpstops in the rear springs...which could lead to your springs falling out, and your shocks are too long and you only have ~3" of uptravel. You're beating the hell out of your shock mounts, they're going to rip off. You need to address the bumpstop issue. I bet thats a lot of your rear end problems.
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Old 11-17-2011, 12:18 AM   #11
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I was just noticing that too with those pictures. Whats best setup to start with. That shock does look to long. I was going to weld up extension on lowers so they clear better, and flip shocks. My uppers I made a piece to eliminate the bar pin which was rusted and junk. So now its just a bolt in through eye of shock. Do I buy shorter shocks?
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Old 11-17-2011, 01:01 AM   #12
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Currie Johnny Joints Suspension TJ LJ

Is this all I need so it would be in top and bottom of spring pads?

As for shocks what do I do? I rather not try making to to out board shocks. But I had clayton offroad send me shocks for the same kit I bought which was short arms all way around and 4" springs from them. I can't be wasting more than .5" with the stud eliminators I made for top of shock mount. If I make lower shock mounts longer as well will that help?

Also to add... I forgot to say, Jeep is parked on a good uphill right now... I have full tool box in rear which I always carry. Hardtop full spare and carrier. 2 heavy stereo amps, and a fiberglass/wood sub box with 2 very heavy kicker subs mounted in it in back of jeep right now. Rear seat as well. And my winch recovery bag of chains shackles all that. But I guess yes thats still to low right.
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Old 11-17-2011, 01:09 AM   #13
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Clayton offroad where I got them, on website show (COL/EXT)

TJ/LJ 4.0" lift 5100 24-185929 15/25 5100 33-185934 15.4/25.8

Yet I go on quadratec and they have the same shocks for 3" lift showing
Fits 3" Lift - Rear
22.44" / 13.98"
Eye / Eye

Sucks for me but is that a better rear shock for what I have going on or should I make jeep normal weight and no extras in it first.
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Old 11-17-2011, 09:16 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Moroney167 View Post
I was just noticing that too with those pictures. Whats best setup to start with. That shock does look to long. I was going to weld up extension on lowers so they clear better, and flip shocks. My uppers I made a piece to eliminate the bar pin which was rusted and junk. So now its just a bolt in through eye of shock. Do I buy shorter shocks?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Moroney167 View Post
Currie Johnny Joints Suspension TJ LJ

Is this all I need so it would be in top and bottom of spring pads?

As for shocks what do I do? I rather not try making to to out board shocks. But I had clayton offroad send me shocks for the same kit I bought which was short arms all way around and 4" springs from them. I can't be wasting more than .5" with the stud eliminators I made for top of shock mount. If I make lower shock mounts longer as well will that help?

Also to add... I forgot to say, Jeep is parked on a good uphill right now... I have full tool box in rear which I always carry. Hardtop full spare and carrier. 2 heavy stereo amps, and a fiberglass/wood sub box with 2 very heavy kicker subs mounted in it in back of jeep right now. Rear seat as well. And my winch recovery bag of chains shackles all that. But I guess yes thats still to low right.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Moroney167 View Post
Clayton offroad where I got them, on website show (COL/EXT)

TJ/LJ 4.0" lift 5100 24-185929 15/25 5100 33-185934 15.4/25.8

Yet I go on quadratec and they have the same shocks for 3" lift showing
Fits 3" Lift - Rear
22.44" / 13.98"
Eye / Eye

Sucks for me but is that a better rear shock for what I have going on or should I make jeep normal weight and no extras in it first.
those measurements assume you don't have a shock extension - which is exactly what those bar pin eliminators you made up top are. Those effectively lengthen the shocks 1-1.5". If you don't see how - think about how the shock bushing with a bar pin sites directly even with the frame, but with a bar pin eliminator, it has to sit about 1" above that point to get a shock bolt in. If you have a 1" BL, they work good because you flip them to the other side and push the shock piston through the frame hole, then set the bumpstops such that the shock body doesn't hit the frame. Gives about another 1/2-3/4" travel.

Those measurements you posted - The stock shock is 12.25" compressed length - anything over that and you need 1" bumpstop extension for every 1" increase. At 14", your shocks need 2" rear bumpstop extension without those bar pin eliminators you installed...with them, maybe 3" or 3.5" extension over stock.

Yes, those Currie bumpstops will work. You'll need to adjust/extend them as necessary for your shocks.

Also, I'd suggest looking into outboarding at least the lower mounts.
Read this: low lift, long shocks, and DIY shock shifters... what's the advantage? - JeepForum.com

Read this too:
http://www.wranglerforum.com/f5/corr...gth-70047.html
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/bu...points-734737/
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Old 11-17-2011, 09:41 AM   #15
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I like that lower shock mount idea. Deffinetly will do that ASAP. Longer I can make them the better. And I will revise my upper shock mounts see if I can make something lower profile because I deff wasted shock space up their.

I'll purchase that bump stop kit so I have something and once shocks are setup right I'll adjust it accordingly

Thanks a ton.
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Old 11-26-2011, 06:18 PM   #16
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Bump up for this. In the time to make these mounts for shocks I'm getting death wobble again. Which as I explained a lot of wobbling from driveline in past since got the jeep. So since I got keep I have replaced just about EVERYTHING and still I have very little wobbles and vibrations. The last thing on the jeep from PO is rear trac bar. It wobbles and deft feels like it starts from rear of jeep. Front feels solid and again I have replaced and rebuilt aligned u name it to the front

So bringing you see I have some sort of rear track bar axle bracket that raises it what barshould I buy. The only thing left is that rear trac bar cause DW. and although it has grease ditto gs and looks aftermarket it has standard type bushing which must be beat up.

What do I buy need to order ASAP to help DW
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Old 11-26-2011, 06:58 PM   #17
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your rear track bar has absolutely nothing to do with your death wobble. at all.
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Old 11-26-2011, 07:34 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UnlimitedLJ04
your rear track bar has absolutely nothing to do with your death wobble. at all.
Please read my PM I sent ya.
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Old 11-26-2011, 08:11 PM   #19
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Please read my PM I sent ya.
you don't need or want a drop pitman arm. something is worn out in the front end and you need to figure out what it is. thats the cause of your DW, nothing else. do the typical still steering test and look for ANY movement in the front end.

since you said two holes have been wallowed out, it's time to ditch the stock track bar and get something better.

cut an 1/8" plate to fit over the stock axle side bracket, drill a 7/16" hole through it, bolt it on over the stock bracket, hand tighten, and weld the piece on all the way around. Drill straight through with a 1/2" drill bit and install the Currie 9120TJJ model front track bar you buy from Gerald @ Savvy Off-Road. That track bar uses a 1/2" bolt on the axle side and a 5/8" bolt on the frame side. Since your bracket is weakened from so many holes drilled in it, you need to weld some reinforcement to it.

You'll need 2" front bumpstop extension, but that shouldn't be an issue since you need those anyway for the 4" of lift you have listed in your sig.

On the rear, if you want to spend money on something for the heck of it, buy the new Currie 9120R rear track bar from Gerald. But again, the rear track bar has ABSOLUTELY NOTHING to do with your death wobble.
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Old 11-26-2011, 08:43 PM   #20
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Well front has a JKS adjustable bar in front. Using stock mount on both sides. I figured weld up a new plate w perfect holes on it for axle side. I'll have to look deep but track bar isn't new so worth it to built solid.

Also I have aco spacers in front. Which yea when I get this all right I'll be fixing my bump stop setup.

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