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Old 09-01-2011, 10:13 AM   #1
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Rear trackbar, Adj. or relocate?

I have 4" of lift on my truck and only a factory rear trackbar, because of that my rear sits off center. I have a relocation bracket that will compensate for the factory trackbar on my shelf waiting to be put on. Recently though someone i know advised against the bracket and said jsut get an adjustable trackbar. His reasoning was that over time the bracket tends to loosen and will begin to move. Has anyone had this problem? Is it really something i should avoid?

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Old 09-01-2011, 10:17 AM   #2
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A relocation bracket adds leverage against where it is welded to the axle which can cause premature failure of the rear track bar mount. If you wheel hard, it would be better to run an adjustable length track bar to center your rear axle.

Rear track bar mounts can and do fail if you wheel hard. I added a brace from Tri-County Gear to mine to further reinforce that area, it goes between the bracket and pumpkin. It's that ugly baby blue brace you can see in the below photo.
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Old 09-01-2011, 11:10 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford View Post
If you wheel hard, it would be better to run an adjustable length track bar to center your rear axle.
FYI, you can't run just an adjustable rear track bar in the stock mount. You need a raised bracket, otherwise the axle side mount binds. This occurs with anything over stock length shocks...so basically any lift, even 2" (22"+ extended length shocks).

first thing you want to do is get rid of any fat aftermarket diff cover, it will likely hit the gas tank.
adjustable rear's don't work for any amount of lift because it binds on the stock bracket.



so you need to install a relocation bracket, but then the bracket hits your fuel & evap lines...so you need to use zip ties to pull them aside. note the relocation bracket will also require at least 1.25" bumpstop extension to avoid hitting the underside of the tub (without a BL).



that fixes the binding above, but then the track bar will hit the frame at the gas tank mount in uptravel



I addressed these issues by buying a used RE with a heim end, then heated the stock track bar up with an oxy-acet torch, bend it to fit properly, cut the end off, and cut the RE heim off, then weld them together to make a custom track bar for the rear.

here's more on that: Unlimited04's LJ Build - Page 24 - JeepForum.com

but as Jerry points out, the raised bracket increases the stress on the stock mount, eventually causing it to rip off. so you need to weld reinforcement to the bracket...or use a bolt on bracket like he shows above.

weld on brace:



here's more info on the subject:
Track bar extension bracket versus adjustable track bars? - JeepForum.com
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/tj.../#post12089348
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Old 09-01-2011, 12:31 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UnlimitedLJ04

FYI, you can't run just an adjustable rear track bar in the stock mount. You need a raised bracket, otherwise the axle side mount binds. This occurs with anything over stock length shocks...so basically any lift, even 2" (22"+ extended length shocks).

first thing you want to do is get rid of any fat aftermarket diff cover, it will likely hit the gas tank.
adjustable rear's don't work for any amount of lift because it binds on the stock bracket.

so you need to install a relocation bracket, but then the bracket hits your fuel & evap lines...so you need to use zip ties to pull them aside. note the relocation bracket will also require at least 1.25" bumpstop extension to avoid hitting the underside of the tub (without a BL).

that fixes the binding above, but then the track bar will hit the frame at the gas tank mount in uptravel

I addressed these issues by buying a used RE with a heim end, then heated the stock track bar up with an oxy-acet torch, bend it to fit properly, cut the end off, and cut the RE heim off, then weld them together to make a custom track bar for the rear.

here's more on that: Unlimited04's LJ Build - Page 24 - JeepForum.com

but as Jerry points out, the raised bracket increases the stress on the stock mount, eventually causing it to rip off. so you need to weld reinforcement to the bracket...or use a bolt on bracket like he shows above.

weld on brace:

here's more info on the subject:
Track bar extension bracket versus adjustable track bars? - JeepForum.com
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/tj.../#post12089348
I am running just an adjustable trac bar in the back, no extension bracket and I have 0 issues, full bump to full droop. It takes a grinder mind you.

And nice addition of bumpstop to your post.
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Old 09-01-2011, 01:31 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by IndyJeepMan View Post
I am running just an adjustable trac bar in the back, no extension bracket and I have 0 issues, full bump to full droop. It takes a grinder mind you.

And nice addition of bumpstop to your post.
If you cut the interfering lip off you weaken the bracket significantly and it bends & breaks. besides, with a lift the low mounting point screws up the roll center.
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Old 09-01-2011, 02:32 PM   #6
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Get this.

I have a relocation bracket and just purchased an adjustable trackbar. I called TeraFlex (the manufacturer) this morning and asked if I should remove the bracket and just use the adjustable trackbar.

TeraFlex said to keep the bracket. It will keep the rear trackbar above the front or something like that which is good for something or another.
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Old 09-01-2011, 02:40 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UnlimitedLJ04

If you cut the interfering lip off you weaken the bracket significantly and it bends & breaks. besides, with a lift the low mounting point screws up the roll center.
You dont cut the full lip off, and once you backplate the bracket it wont bend even if you meant to bend it.
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Old 10-27-2011, 05:23 PM   #8
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i'm running a stock track bar and 33's .. spacers in the front longer springs in the rear with stock arms..worked great until this .. i broke the mount with the relocation bracket first. then i added some metal and broke it just below.. then i boxed it in and ripped it completely off the axle with the upper control arm mount. so now what to do?
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Old 10-27-2011, 05:26 PM   #9
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i have heims and i planned on building my own track bar but sounds like theres more to do than just that.
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Old 10-27-2011, 05:45 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 97tjfuninwa View Post
i'm running a stock track bar and 33's .. spacers in the front longer springs in the rear with stock arms..worked great until this .. i broke the mount with the relocation bracket first. then i added some metal and broke it just below.. then i boxed it in and ripped it completely off the axle with the upper control arm mount. so now what to do?
what rear axle you have? if its a D35c...sounds like a good excuse to upgrade.

Artec TJ 8.8 Swap Kit with Truss

or here's a bracket by itself
98700-4 Track Bar Bracket
with UCA mount
98700-2 Upper Control Arm Bracket
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Old 10-27-2011, 06:50 PM   #11
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i run the stock rear bar with a welded
track bar bracket. it rubs the gas tank
skid.
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Old 10-28-2011, 01:03 AM   #12
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Its a 35 all stock. What is the 8.8 ford in comparrison to a d44 as far as strength? My track bar barely scuffed the skid plate for the gas tank which is stoxk as well.
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Old 10-28-2011, 01:27 AM   #13
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Here is the track bar mount on my 8.8. Its 1/4" thick and I am running the stock track bar with 2.5" springs and 1.25" BL
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Old 10-28-2011, 03:24 AM   #14
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My god that's a real pretty axle.
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Old 10-28-2011, 07:56 AM   #15
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My god that's a real pretty axle.
Thank you.
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Old 10-28-2011, 08:26 AM   #16
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Man I drool every time I see your garage.
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Old 10-28-2011, 08:39 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by 97tjfuninwa View Post
Its a 35 all stock. What is the 8.8 ford in comparrison to a d44 as far as strength? My track bar barely scuffed the skid plate for the gas tank which is stoxk as well.
while the 8.8 is still a c-clip axle, it's actually stronger than the TJ D44.
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Old 10-28-2011, 09:44 AM   #18
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Thanks Matt, Yes the 8.8 is a C clip rear but there are companies that make a c clip eliminator kit. I will be getting one for mine sooner or later.
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Old 10-28-2011, 10:13 AM   #19
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Understand that a c-clip axle design, by itself, does not make an axle weaker or more prone to break. The only problem with a c-clip design is that if an axle shaft does break, which the c-clip does not encourage or cause, it just means the broken axle shaft has nothing to retain it to the axle so it can slide out.
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Old 10-28-2011, 10:17 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford View Post
Understand that a c-clip axle design, by itself, does not make an axle weaker or more prone to break. The only problem with a c-clip design is that if an axle shaft does break, which the c-clip does not encourage or cause, it just means the broken axle shaft has nothing to retain it to the axle so it can slide out.
Correct, A perfect example of this is the episode of Top Gear where they put the cj-7 against the bronco and the k5 blazer. When the bronco snapped an axle shaft the wheel and axle slid right out.
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Old 10-28-2011, 10:20 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford View Post
Understand that a c-clip axle design, by itself, does not make an axle weaker or more prone to break. The only problem with a c-clip design is that if an axle shaft does break, which the c-clip does not encourage or cause, it just means the broken axle shaft has nothing to retain it to the axle so it can slide out.
Which means you get to do this back to camp:

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Old 10-28-2011, 10:27 AM   #22
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haha, is that from Rausch creek last weekend? who is it?
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Old 10-28-2011, 10:34 AM   #23
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Yeah that's Jim, he had quite the day. That morning right before lunch a shock fell out which let his spring fall out on the same corner as the broken axle shaft. We got the spring back in and tied the shock up to get him back to camp. Bobby then tried the same obstacle right before we left and ended up snapping his front drivers axle shaft. Back at camp we got Jim's shock reinstalled and swapped a new axle shaft in Bobby's rig.

Then the second half of the day Craig broke his drag link which we had to weld back together, and Jim ended up snapping his rear axle (those are brand new 35s and he still has the D35, so it wasn't really a surprise). Something else broke on Jim's rig but I can remember what it was. He broke his rear at the end of the day but managed to buy an axle shaft from someone back at camp and was planning on fixing it that night so he could wheel on Sunday. He didn't show up on Sunday though because of something else that was broken but I can't remember what. I'm sure we'll get the full scoop on Sunday at the meeting.
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Old 10-28-2011, 10:36 AM   #24
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wow, sounds like an expensive trip
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Old 12-23-2011, 02:17 AM   #25
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so i will be adding 3.5 RK coils to my jeep, what should do with BOTH front and rear track bars?

Rear, should i go with an currie adj track bar with no bracket or should i get a bracket and adj track, or just leave stock and get a bracket?

Front, Adj currie front track? i here that curries clear the diff cover. or stock n drill a hole?
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Old 12-23-2011, 11:19 AM   #26
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If the $$$ is not a problem, it's always best to install adjustable length track bars front and rear with that much lift. Yes Currie's front track bar is bent in such a way as to minimize the likelihood of it impacting the diff cover.
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Old 12-27-2011, 08:40 PM   #27
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I have a 97 Sport w/ 4.0L 5 speed, 4" lift. I have a problem with the passenger side setting about 1 1/2" lower than the drivers side. Is this due to improper trackbar setting, or something else? New shocks and springs are in good shape.

I called a local shop that installs lifts, they said to drill new mounting holes on the low side for the trackbar to mount. This doesn't sound right to me, what do you all think?

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